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Resolved 2G Engine Rebuild

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RubyEclipse

Proven Member
699
264
Feb 2, 2025
Delhi, California
Hello everyone! I just purchased my 1996 Eclipse GST a few months ago, had some issues with a few different things. Most recent was car was smoking and running very uneasy, so I decided to pull the engine. I am going to do a full engine rebuild-ish, I bought new wisco heads, still looking at the rods I want, if there’s anything anyone thinks I should buy and upgrade I would love help! Trying to push more power but not an insane amount seeing how I want this to be more of a daily but not quite. Thank you guys!
 
Its dead center, on the firewall all the way the bottom - bolted to the front subframe. There's a long bolt running right through the center of it with a nut on the back just like the front mount. Should be to left of the AC compressor your trying to remove.
Perfect? Thank you so much!!
 
Highlighted below. Attached to the backside of the transmission.

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I haven't read through this whole thread b/c it 30 pages long, but if someone hasn't mentioned it you should pick up on eBay a set of 2G FSM's. Not the Haynes or the Chiltons, get the FSM. It will be tremendously helpful to have a book with diagrams you can physically look at while working. Plus, it'll have all the torque specs, wiring diagrams, etc. IMO they are priceless.
 
I haven't read through this whole thread b/c it 30 pages long, but if someone hasn't mentioned it you should pick up on eBay a set of 2G FSM's. Not the Haynes or the Chiltons, get the FSM. It will be tremendously helpful to have a book with diagrams you can physically look at while working. Plus, it'll have all the torque specs, wiring diagrams, etc. IMO they are priceless.
Yeah sorry about the page length…. But i will definitely pick up one of those, i bought a Haynes one but its got very few things I actually need.

Gadies and lentlemen, I have successfully pulled my engine. Without breaking anything!! (I think and hope…) I have a stand for my engine, but do I need to take my transmission off to hook it up? I got no idea how this thing works, and what I should be doing from now on.

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Yes. You need to set the engine on the ground still hooked up to the hoist on an old tire, that's usually what I use. Unbolt the transmission and then mount the motor to the stand by putting long bolts through the stand and thread into the block where the trans was mounted. You are more than likely going to have to go out and buy 4 bolts for this in the correct thread pattern. They probably aren't gonna be cheap, but you'll always have them anytime you would need to pull your motor in the future.
 
Yes. You need to set the engine on the ground still hooked up to the hoist on an old tire, that's usually what I use. Unbolt the transmission and then mount the motor to the stand by putting long bolts through the stand and thread into the block where the trans was mounted. You are more than likely going to have to go out and buy 4 bolts for this in the correct thread pattern. They probably aren't gonna be cheap, but you'll always have them anytime you would need to pull your motor in the future.
Awesome, you got it. I’ll see if we have an old tire, for some reason I feel like we do. 😂 if not I’ll go down the road, dumb dumbs always be throwing them on the road. With my transmission, im worried about my first gear a tad bit, and my oil came out too shiny for my liking, like it glistens. Ima going to scrub and clean, EVERYTHING. Then I’ll move onto the engine bay and replacing old hoses and stuff. The AC was very easy to disconnect I was an idiot and looking at the bracket holding it, wondering why I couldn’t reach the bolts for about an hour, im worried I broke an AC line or something. I’ll be checking that out too. Thank you all for getting me this far, I’d love to be able to say I know my car once I can out the engine back in, correctly, and running.
 
Awesome, you got it. I’ll see if we have an old tire, for some reason I feel like we do. 😂 if not I’ll go down the road, dumb dumbs always be throwing them on the road. With my transmission, im worried about my first gear a tad bit, and my oil came out too shiny for my liking, like it glistens. Ima going to scrub and clean, EVERYTHING. Then I’ll move onto the engine bay and replacing old hoses and stuff. The AC was very easy to disconnect I was an idiot and looking at the bracket holding it, wondering why I couldn’t reach the bolts for about an hour, im worried I broke an AC line or something. I’ll be checking that out too. Thank you all for getting me this far, I’d love to be able to say I know my car once I can out the engine back in, correctly, and running.
You've gone further than I can imagine. Please ask questions if you get stuck. Try not to jump ahead too much. There may be some gotchas along the way we could avoid. Bag and tag everything.
 
You've gone further than I can imagine. Please ask questions if you get stuck. Try not to jump ahead too much. There may be some gotchas along the way we could avoid. Bag and tag everything.
I’m hoping you saying “further than I imagine” is a good thing 😂, I have been bagging and putting bolts in there original spots. I think I know where almost everything goes to be honest.

Got it down do the bare bare block. Should I take off all the timing stuff? Like the small belt timing stuff.

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Got it down do the bare bare block. Should I take off all the timing stuff? Like the small belt timing stuff.

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Nice man, I can’t wait till I get the whole block out just to see the innards.. of course rebuild while it’s out.. right now, this is what I’m doing with her.. we’re getting squared away on some curvy stuff..!! LOL,too much fun.. handles like a go cart

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Awesome, you got it. I’ll see if we have an old tire, for some reason I feel like we do. 😂 if not I’ll go down the road, dumb dumbs always be throwing them on the road. With my transmission, im worried about my first gear a tad bit, and my oil came out too shiny for my liking, like it glistens. Ima going to scrub and clean, EVERYTHING. Then I’ll move onto the engine bay and replacing old hoses and stuff. The AC was very easy to disconnect I was an idiot and looking at the bracket holding it, wondering why I couldn’t reach the bolts for about an hour, im worried I broke an AC line or something. I’ll be checking that out too. Thank you all for getting me this far, I’d love to be able to say I know my car once I can out the engine back in, correctly, and running.
Oh dude, I don’t like the way you described the ‘glistening oil’..!!
 

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I’m hoping you saying “further than I imagine” is a good thing 😂, I have been bagging and putting bolts in there original spots. I think I know where almost everything goes to be honest.
Yes. Its a good thing
 
Awesome, you got it. I’ll see if we have an old tire, for some reason I feel like we do. 😂 if not I’ll go down the road, dumb dumbs always be throwing them on the road. With my transmission, im worried about my first gear a tad bit, and my oil came out too shiny for my liking, like it glistens. Ima going to scrub and clean, EVERYTHING. Then I’ll move onto the engine bay and replacing old hoses and stuff. The AC was very easy to disconnect I was an idiot and looking at the bracket holding it, wondering why I couldn’t reach the bolts for about an hour, im worried I broke an AC line or something. I’ll be checking that out too. Thank you all for getting me this far, I’d love to be able to say I know my car once I can out the engine back in, correctly, and running.
Are you going to get down to the crankshaft?? I mean main bearings and all, if ya do dude, be super careful and clean.. tolerance’s are there for a reason
 
I have already taken it to the oil dump thing, it was a little shiny for my liking, not an insane ton, but enough.
Didn't look odd to me. Synchros are brass so trans oil sometimes has a little sparkle to it. Grab the input shaft where the clutch is. See what kind of play it has if any.
 
Are you going to get down to the crankshaft?? I mean main bearings and all, if ya do dude, be super careful and clean.. tolerance’s are there for a reason
I want too; but im too afraid something is gonna happen and mess up my engine. I don’t want to ruin anything or have too expensive of a fix. I’m still a broke high schooler. 😂😂
 
You are doing great, Diesel.

Remove the clutch assembly, starter plate, and flywheel. Also remove the PS bracket, a/c bracket, knock sensor, and the timing belt tool between the cams. Remove the dipstick tube. Leave the timing components on the engine, and leave the oil filter.
 
You are doing great, Diesel.

Remove the clutch assembly, starter plate, and flywheel. Also remove the PS bracket, a/c bracket, knock sensor, and the timing belt tool between the cams. Remove the dipstick tube. Leave the timing components on the engine, and leave the oil filter.
Gotta ask. Why leave this stuff? I remove everything. I hand the machine shop a block with crank pistons and rods. Thats it. Instructions are to machine surface. If you're doing new pistons, rods bearings etc have them measure then buy what yiu need. Do NOT buy parts first. Machine shop will need in there first. If I were a broke high schoolers I would flatten that surface, hone the block and put it all back together with new rings. That's it. No new pistons rods etc. Thats how we did it on old muscle cars, this is no different.
 
Gotta ask. Why leave this stuff? I remove everything. I hand the machine shop a block with crank pistons and rods. Thats it. Instructions are to machine surface. If you're doing new pistons, rods bearings etc have them measure then buy what yiu need. Do NOT buy parts first. Machine shop will need in there first. If I were a broke high schoolers I would flatten that surface, hone the block and put it all back together with new rings. That's it. No new pistons rods etc. Thats how we did it on old muscle cars, this is no different.
Okay, I can pull the crank then? You want me to do that before or after the machine shop? I’ll get new rings and hone it, there’s nothing else I need?
 
Okay, I can pull the crank then? You want me to do that before or after the machine shop? I’ll get new rings and hone it, there’s nothing else I need?
I leave the crank, pistons etc in it. You won't know what you need until the machine shop gets done with it.
 
I leave the crank, pistons etc in it. You won't know what you need until the machine shop gets done with it.
Got it. I know they’re probably going to take those out aren’t they? Should I ask them to leave them out? I’ll pull the rest off here soon. I just don’t want anything to rust or get lost, i do not have money quite yet for resurfacing. I know it’ll be upwards of 500 and up, or that’s my guess at least.
 
Gotta ask. Why leave this stuff? I remove everything. I hand the machine shop a block with crank pistons and rods. Thats it. Instructions are to machine surface. If you're doing new pistons, rods bearings etc have them measure then buy what yiu need. Do NOT buy parts first. Machine shop will need in there first. If I were a broke high schoolers I would flatten that surface, hone the block and put it all back together with new rings. That's it. No new pistons rods etc. Thats how we did it on old muscle cars, this is no different.
My thought was to make things easier on Diesel - to have the shop install the timing belts and all Diesel would have to do is double check marks before installing the long block. It's not hard to install the components - but was looking at it from the standpoint of a first-timer having to try and remember all of the reassembly for getting the engine in and hooked up. As to the oil filter - that was just to ensure no oil leaked out during transit there.

All that said, don't disagree with stripping the block of everything but internals.
 
$500 just for resurfacing the block would be absurd. Now if that also includes resurfacing the cylinder head, honing the block and measuring clearances, that's a bit better. I'd call around and explain the situation to get pricing before making that assumption though. Most machine shops have similar pricing (but it varies by region). Nobody should dare charge you $500 just to resurface a block though.

Best wishes :)
 
My thought was to make things easier on Diesel - to have the shop install the timing belts and all Diesel would have to do is double check marks before installing the long block. It's not hard to install the components - but was looking at it from the standpoint of a first-timer having to try and remember all of the reassembly for getting the engine in and hooked up. As to the oil filter - that was just to ensure no oil leaked out during transit there.

All that said, don't disagree with stripping the block of everything but internals.
Would i be bringing all of the stuff to the shop for them to do timing and stuff? Because I know the timing very well now. Dine it
$500 just for resurfacing the block would be absurd. Now if that also includes resurfacing the cylinder head, honing the block and measuring clearances, that's a bit better. I'd call around and explain the situation to get pricing before making that assumption though. Most machine shops have similar pricing (but it varies by region). Nobody should dare charge you $500 just to resurface a block though.

Best wishes :)
oh it’s really that much less?? I didn’t know that. I wanted to get it clean and probably paint it myself, would that be a bad idea? Also thank you. I will call around and get price checks.
 
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