Resolved 2G Engine Rebuild

[RubyEclipse]

Hello everyone! I just purchased my 1996 Eclipse GST a few months ago, had some issues with a few different things. Most recent was car was smoking and running very uneasy, so I decided to pull the engine. I am going to do a full engine rebuild-ish, I bought new wisco heads, still looking at the rods I want, if there’s anything anyone thinks I should buy and upgrade I would love help! Trying to push more power but not an insane amount seeing how I want this to be more of a daily but not quite. Thank you guys!

 

[RubyEclipse]

Well....we're the studs bottomed out or not? What were trying to establish is did you achieve proper torque or not.

Well in all honesty, i want to say i did, but that could have been the last time im thinking off. I’m starting to think i didnt, would that really be that big of an issue? The part im most concerned about is me taking too much off in different places on the block itself. I will do whatever you say though.

I have the whole car back together and it’s running well, but there’s still combustion gases in the coolant. So the head needs to come off no matter what, im going to get started on that tomorrow.

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[pauleyman]

Well in all honesty, i want to say i did, but that could have been the last time im thinking off. I’m starting to think i didnt, would that really be that big of an issue? The part im most concerned about is me taking too much off in different places on the block itself. I will do whatever you say though.

Taking too much off? Elaborate. How did you clean it?

 

[RubyEclipse]

Taking too much off? Elaborate. How did you clean it?

I didn’t think much of it then but I am now, I used a Dremel with a very fine tip.

 

[CKOPOCT]

Oh no. Houston, I think we've identified the problem. The block should never be cleaned with any kind of scouring tool. Solvent and a gasket scraper or rags and elbow grease. But scouring tools like wire wheels, dremels, die grinders, etc. can make the job fast but will score the block and can lead to sealing problems. Sounds like that's what probably happened here... especially if the head was properly machined, tested, and torqued correctly.

Unfortunately it sounds like you will need to have the block checked and probably decked. Boo...

Ok I think this is the best it’s going to look, it looks absolutely amazing and so shiny. I think I’m ready to put the head on, unless you guys think otherwise. Also, do I put the new head studs in first? Or after I put the head on?

I was looking back at your picture from post #238. I can see some areas where the marks look deep enough to possibly be a problem.

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[RubyEclipse]

Well, dang it. I knew it. I was an idiot for that was not even thinking about it. What do you think I should do? Is this an engine pull kind of job…?

 

[Justin DuBois]

Well, dang it. I knew it. I was an idiot for that was not even thinking about it. What do you think I should do? Is this an engine pull kind of job…?

Oh My. If it was my engine block, I'd pull it.
Your off the edge of the map there mate - Ey there be monsters...

 

[RubyEclipse]

Oh My. If it was my engine block, I'd pull it.
Your off the edge of the map there mate - Ey there be monsters...

oh crap. I don’t know what to do at all, is there any other options? I don’t think I could re deck it myself huh? And I think machine shops do it unless the engine is out of the car. And at this point do I want that much work?

Also, not only do I not want to pull the motor. But then if I do, I might as well do a lot of stuff that I want to do to it because it’s already out, so I might as well get rings, rehone it, I might as well do a lot to it and make it a good motor right?

 

[Mahreeoh17]

Also, not only do I not want to pull the motor. But then if I do, I might as well do a lot of stuff that I want to do to it because it’s already out, so I might as well get rings, rehone it, I might as well do a lot to it and make it a good motor right?

It happens like that sometimes. I found a 6 bolt motor I was originally going to drop right into my car, and after pulling the water pump off to clean I found a bunch of rust in the ports, that turned into a whole rebuild, and now the entire car is getting redone with bodywork, engine bay painting, the works. You really have to love the car and want to see the project thru.

Is it a hassle? Absolutely. But at least when you're done you know the car inside and out, so you can say it's done correctly.

 

[RubyEclipse]

It happens like that sometimes. I found a 6 bolt motor I was originally going to drop right into my car, and after pulling the water pump off to clean I found a bunch of rust in the ports, that turned into a whole rebuild, and now the entire car is getting redone with bodywork, engine bay painting, the works. You really have to love the car and want to see the project thru.

Is it a hassle? Absolutely. But at least when you're done you know the car inside and out, so you can say it's done correctly.

That’s definitely a great point; I want to do all of that so I know my car very well, I just don’t know if I want it to be a Spyder or not, I want to get a GSX and go all out, but I’ll never be able to afford a decently shaped one. Or find a normal GST in good condition.

 

[Mahreeoh17]

That’s definitely a great point; I want to do all of that so I know my car very well, I just don’t know if I want it to be a Spyder or not, I want to get a GSX and go all out, but I’ll never be able to afford a decently shaped one. Or find a normal GST in good condition.

If you're unsure, you can always wait. The right car may be the one you have, or you might stumble upon one that you go crazy for. Just don't rush and dump a bunch of money into something you might not be happy with. And stay on the forums for motivation/advice. Good luck!

 

[RubyEclipse]

If you're unsure, you can always wait. The right car may be the one you have, or you might stumble upon one that you go crazy for. Just don't rush and dump a bunch of money into something you might not be happy with. And stay on the forums for motivation/advice. Food luck!

Thank you very much, i appreciate it!! And good luck to your project as well!

 

[BLACK'98DSM]

When I was a teen, I would get a small plank of plywood a little wider than the block. And wrap 120 grit sandpaper around it, then use a car battery or dumbbell on top to keep some downward pressure. Push and pull that across the block 15 times or so and it would get rid of imperfections and leave it reasonably flat, at least for a composite gasket. Thoroughly clean the surface and chase it with copper spray before dropping the head and gasket on. I never had a problem with those engines. But they were all low or no boost 4 cylinders with an iron block and composite gasket. I also made sure to thoroughly flush the water jackets and oil galleys to get rid of the sand and metal grit that will be left behind. Although this is an option, it's most definitely best to have a machine shop measure and resurface the block at this point. It's hard to say if the deck is saveable or what the condition of the cylinder walls is without taking out, tearing it down, and looking within. It's been years since I "resurfaced" a block at home because I'm no longer a teenager building engines in a back yard.

Best of luck to you.

 

[RubyEclipse]

When I was a teen, I would get a small plank of plywood a little wider than the block. And wrap 120 grit sandpaper around it, then use a car battery or dumbbell on top to keep some downward pressure. Push and pull that across the block 15 times or so and it would get rid of imperfections and leave it reasonably flat, at least for a composite gasket. Thoroughly clean the surface and chase it with copper spray before dropping the head and gasket on. I never had a problem with those engines. But they were all low or no boost 4 cylinders with an iron block and composite gasket. I also made sure to thoroughly flush the water jackets and oil galleys to get rid of the sand and metal grit that will be left behind. Although this is an option, it's most definitely best to have a machine shop measure and resurface the block at this point. It's hard to say if the deck is saveable or what the condition of the cylinder walls is without taking out, tearing it down, and looking within. It's been years since I "resurfaced" a block at home because I'm no longer a teenager building engines in a back yard.

Best of luck to you.

Thank you for the advice and words, I have decided to take it to a shop, because I know that will give me the best results and especially in the long run. Hopefully she’ll be back on the road soon, if I can just figure out everything that needs to be removed or disconnected for this engine to come out.

Also, happy 4th to everyone!!

 

[RubyEclipse]

Got the drivers side axle off, very happy with myself. Only thing im not happy with, is that oil…. That transmission oil has NOT been changed in a very very long time. There is something seriously wrong with it , I of course am going to flush every ounce of that out when I pull the block. This hasn’t damaged anything right? My gears have always felt fine, never still in anyway. But man that stuff looks bad. Would love any help or advice in my further removal of this engine. Thanks guys.

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[pauleyman]

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Umm....it appears you separated the axle. The axle stub is still in the trans. You need to drain the trans fluid into a pan.

 

[RubyEclipse]

Isn’t the axle supposed to come out?

 

[pauleyman]

Isn’t the axle supposed to come out?

Not in pieces. The axle should have a splined stub on both ends connected by a joint a one piece rubber boot. Either you separated the boot or it was already broken.
Before you pull the stubs you need to drain the trans.

Got the drivers side axle off, very happy with myself. Only thing im not happy with, is that oil…. That transmission oil has NOT been changed in a very very long time. There is something seriously wrong with it , I of course am going to flush every ounce of that out when I pull the block. This hasn’t damaged anything right? My gears have always felt fine, never still in anyway. But man that stuff looks bad. Would love any help or advice in my further removal of this engine. Thanks guys.

What you're looking at is grease inside the axle boot, not trans fluid.

 

[RubyEclipse]

What you're looking at is grease inside the axle boot, not trans fluid.

Oh awesome, thank goodness. I got really worried that It was trans oil. That makes me feel a lot better. So then i definitely pulled it off from the boot, what do I need to do to get the rest of what I want out?

 

[pauleyman]

Oh awesome, thank goodness. I got really worried that It was trans oil. That makes me feel a lot better. So then i definitely pulled it off from the boot, what do I need to do to get the rest of what I want out?

Drain the fluid first. The drain is by you passenger axle if I recall. Axles are held in by a small c clip. They pop out with a little prying behind. My favorite method is using a square shank big ass screwdriver and use a crescent wrench on the shaft. Give it a twist to pop it. If yiu dont drain the fluid first it will run out the axle holes. Point of reference, anytime you're draining fluid in a trans, rearend etc loosen the fill plug first. Imagine draining the fluid and then finding you can't put it back in because fill plug is messed up. You will need to repair that boot or replace the axle.
Seems you are missing the lower timing cover. I wouldnt run the car like that. Do you need one?

 

[RubyEclipse]

Drain the fluid first. The drain is by you passenger axle if I recall. Axles are held in by a small c clip. They pop out with a little prying behind. My favorite method is using a square shank big ass screwdriver and use a crescent wrench on the shaft. Give it a twist to pop it. If yiu dont drain the fluid first it will run out the axle holes. Point of reference, anytime you're draining fluid in a trans, rearend etc loosen the fill plug first. Imagine draining the fluid and then finding you can't put it back in because fill plug is messed up. You will need to repair that boot or replace the axle.
Seems you are missing the lower timing cover. I wouldnt run the car like that. Do you need one?

Yes I need a middle, lower, timing covers. I cannot find them anywhere, seriously. They must be rare, they sell super fast for every one maybe 2 that I’ve found. Marketplace, eBay, nothing. I can replace the boot, I’ll show you the condition of everything today, it’s actually light out so it’ll be easier to show.

So @Justin DuBois i found where that oily grease stuff was coming from, it’s from my driver side axle boot, it appeared to be ripped, that’s why I was also able to pull it out so easily. As for the pulleys, I will check those when I get the motor out. Also would like to know if I should disconnect the intake and exhaust manifolds? Was thinking of pulling them too but I don’t know. I also have to idea what to do about the ac compressor lines, where are they and how do I disconnect all of them??

 

[19Eclipse90]

I leave the intake and exhaust manifold attached when pulling the motor. This is all a matter of personal preference.

The A/C compressor - there are four bolts holding it to the mounting bracket. Disconnect those and those only. There is no reason to open or remove any of the A/C lines. When you get to the point of pulling the motor, make sure to keep the compressor out of the way / keep it from hanging up on anything on the motor, including the compressor mounting bracket.

 

[RubyEclipse]

I leave the intake and exhaust manifold attached when pulling the motor. This is all a matter of personal preference.

The A/C compressor - there are for bolts holding it to the mounting bracket. Disconnect those and those only. There is no reason to open or remove any of the A/C lines. When you get to the point of pulling the motor, make sure to keep the compressor out of the way.

You’re saying disconnect the AC compressor from the car, instead of disconnecting pipes? That’s pretty smart, I think that’s a good idea. I can only reach 2 volts from the bottom, are there 4 holding it on, and any other pipes I need to worry about?

 

[techboy]

You’re saying disconnect the AC compressor from the car, instead of disconnecting pipes? That’s pretty smart, I think that’s a good idea. I can only reach 2 volts from the bottom, are there 4 holding it on, and any other pipes I need to worry about?

Yes, there are 4 holding the AC compressor on. 2 should be fairly accessible from under the car just above the drives side axle. There are two more up top of them sorta underneath the the intake manifold on the drivers side. They are long bolts. I believe 12mm, but they could be 14s. Don't quote me. Once they are out you should be able to move the compressor around enough to be out of the way when you pull the motor. Like, the previous poster said, no need to disconnect AC lines .. you don't want to do that unless you actually eliminating the AC.

 

[RubyEclipse]

Yes, there are 4 holding the AC compressor on. 2 should be fairly accessible from under the car just above the drives side axle. There are two more up top of them sorta underneath the the intake manifold on the drivers side. They are long bolts. I believe 12mm, but they could be 14s. Don't quote me. Once they are out you should be able to move the compressor around enough to be out of the way when you pull the motor. Like, the previous poster said, no need to disconnect AC lines .. you don't want to do that unless you actually eliminating the AC.

Okay got it, thank you! I also cannot find that last motor mount for the life of me. Got the 2 sides disconnected, and the front next to the radiator, was told there’s a 4th but it’s nowhere in sight.

 

[techboy]

Its dead center, on the firewall all the way the bottom - bolted to the front subframe. There's a long bolt running right through the center of it with a nut on the back just like the front mount. Should be to left of the AC compressor your trying to remove.