2G 1g in a 2g, cylinder #2 dead

[3kgtaddict]

So it’s a 1g 7 bolt swapped into a 95 (2g) body. I followed the Magnus method where I used the cam sensor to give off the cam and crank signals. The only difference is I have to keep my firing order in the stock order or it won’t even start (I think they say to swap 2 with 4 and swap 1 with 3 but when I do that it won’t start and backfires LOUD )

It seems to run ok and I want to go drive it and break in the new motor. I set the idle by grounding the brown connector and turning the BISS screw. And also had my adjustable harbor freight timing gun set to 15° and turned the cam sensor until my camshaft TDC notches lined up. (Car didn’t come with any timing belt covers so that was my only option as far as setting ignition timing)

Problem is I was playing with my digital thermometer and just happened to notice that the exhaust manifold runner for cylinder #2 is about 100° cooler than the rest of the cylinder’s runners. (they’re all about 450°-500° but #2 is 350°-400°) . When I pull the spark plug wire, the engine doesn’t die down or anything so I’m pretty sure that cylinder is dead and it’s definitely sparking. Tomorrow I’m gonna swap around two fuel injectors and see if the problem follows the injector, but I know they were all spraying when I installed them, so I have a feeling the ignition timing is just off and that cylinder is sparking at the wrong time or something?? Probably because I wasn’t able to follow the switched firing order that they say to use in the Magnus method. I have no way to data-log either.

Any help would be greatly appreciated if anyone has done this motor swap and not had to swap their firing order especially!!

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[CKOPOCT]

How do you know it is definitely sparking? Even if you can see the spark, it's possible the spark isn't hot enough to properly ignite the charge. If swapping the injectors doesn't produce any results, test the resistance of your plug wires. They should be pretty consistent based on length (the longer the wire the greater the resistance, but mathematically should be even per wire - e.g., 300 ohms per inch).

Also check your connections (injector plugs and plug wires. Hopefully you get some answers.

 

[3kgtaddict]

How do you know it is definitely sparking? Even if you can see the spark, it's possible the spark isn't hot enough to properly ignite the charge. If swapping the injectors doesn't produce any results, test the resistance of your plug wires. They should be pretty consistent based on length (the longer the wire the greater the resistance, but mathematically should be even per wire - e.g., 300 ohms per inch).

Also check your connections (injector plugs and plug wires. Hopefully you get some answers.

I feel really stupid apparently my new intake manifold gasket was the wrong shape I put the old one on and fixed a massive leak. Then pressurized it to 20psi and found a couple other small leaks . It’s running 10x better now idling , but when I try to get on the pedal it bogs down pretty bad. So I’m still searching

 

[Justin DuBois]

If you create a vehicle profile with your current setup, that way we can skip the 20 questions it will take to give you relevant advice. I see a blow through GM MAF? No recirculation of the BOV?, so I assume you are running the supporting EMS and MAP sensor for that?

Can you post logs? Do you have a Wideband?

 

[3kgtaddict]

If you create a vehicle profile with your current setup, that way we can skip the 20 questions it will take to give you relevant advice. I see a blow through GM MAF? No recirculation of the BOV?, so I assume you are running the supporting EMS and MAP sensor for that?

Can you post logs? Do you have a Wideband?

Dang I’m not getting any notifications of your guys replies I’m so sorry! I’ve been painting its bumpers/trunk for the last couple days and I’m just now trying to figure this out again

So the car came with a MAF translator that I didn’t install so that GM MAF isn’t plugged in or anything it’s basically just a part of my intercooler piping because I didn’t have another pipe to go there. I’m running a stock MAF from a 3000gt which I believe are identical . And I’m actually not sure how to recirculate that BOV I just have the vacuum line going to the only nipple on the BOV. I have no tuning capabilities either i’m just trying to get it running stock. Although I do have the wide band gauge and it’s running a little rich about 13.3 at idle

It’s a 1g 7 bolt from a 94 put into a 95 so I have the cam sensor wired up using the Magnus method, giving the signal for the crank sensor also. I also had to rotate the four fuel injector wires in their positions where the pins in the harness plug into the ECU. That was supposed to put the signal out of phase, and then I was supposed to change the order of my spark plug wires to put it back into phase (whatever that means ) However, it won’t even start when I change the spark plug wires, so I have to keep them in the stock firing order 4-1-2-3 (as it’s written on the coil pack)

Oh and it came with an eBay turbo but it doesn’t sound bad or have any shaft play.

 

[3kgtaddict]

If you create a vehicle profile with your current setup, that way we can skip the 20 questions it will take to give you relevant advice. I see a blow through GM MAF? No recirculation of the BOV?, so I assume you are running the supporting EMS and MAP sensor for that?

Can you post logs? Do you have a Wideband?

I made my vehicle profile and I’ll keep checking back here I won’t take a week to answer this time I promise

 

[chrisman287]

You should get rid of the breather filter on the valve cover and hook it to one of the vacuum fittings on the intake then block off the other fitting.

You should also get rid of the knock off blow off valve and get a real one with a recirculation fitting.

And are you following the 6 bolt swap instructions??

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[miliman13]

How do you know it is definitely sparking? Even if you can see the spark, it's possible the spark isn't hot enough to properly ignite the charge

This 100% !!!

Recently happened to me, OP also test the injectors don’t just swap them, a proper test involves pressuring the injector, but if yours is dead you will know it without having to pressurize.

Since the coils are paired and you only lost one cylinder then it could be your plug or injector. I doubt it’s the plug.

 

[3kgtaddict]

You should get rid of the breather filter on the valve cover and hook it to one of the vacuum fittings on the intake then block off the other fitting.

You should also get rid of the knock off blow off valve and get a real one with a recirculation fitting.

And are you following the 6 bolt swap instructions??

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Ok I’ll do that, the breather came like that so I just ran with it again I wasn’t sure what to do. And ya I didn’t know what to do with all those ports on the aftermarket eBay intake either so i plugged them all .

And that HKS BOV came with the car too but it seems cheaper than my authentic HKS BOV I have on my 3000GT so it’s probably a knock off. I still have the recirculation fitting from my authentic one too I never looked into hooking it up on the 3000gt. It just started running funky too, going lean, randomly stuttering while cruising. Having bad luck with my Mitsus at the moment

And I went by the “1g in a 2g magnus method” is that what you mean by the 6 bolt instructions??

This 100% !!!

Recently happened to me, OP also test the injectors don’t just swap them, a proper test involves pressuring the injector, but if yours is dead you will know it without having to pressurize.

Since the coils are paired and you only lost one cylinder then it could be your plug or injector. I doubt it’s the plug.

So I actually fixed the misfire when I put the old intake manifold gasket back on, apparently the new one that came in the kit was the wrong shape and it was leaking. I only noticed the misfire because one of the exhaust manifoldrunners was 100° cooler than the rest. Now It seems to be running just fine when I rev the engine sitting in neutral it’ll go all the way up through the RPM’s and it’s responsive like it’s supposed to be (except it’s running rich around 13.3 a/f ratio) it’s only when I take it around the block and try to get on the gas that it bogs down now

How do I go about testing the injectors like you’re saying though? I would like to check the injectors on my 3000GT as well as on the Talon, and besides doing the resistance check with the voltmeter, I don’t know how to test them

I’ve had the check engine light come on a few times although it’s off right now. But I can’t figure out how to check the codes. It’s not like my 95 3000GT where I can ground out one of the pins on the port and the light will flash.

 

[CKOPOCT]

A log would go a long way to help diagnose this...

From the brief description and pics it would seem parts were put on that aren't properly supported or were "cheap" (there's a reason China doesn't build performance cars). Bolt-on "go fast" parts won't work well unless everything is set to accept those parts - functionally, not physically.

The VTA BOV will cause fuel metering problems if the engine has a MAF setup. The vented air has been figured into the air calculation, so when it vents to the engine compartment instead of back into the intake (recirc), you get a rich situation. That will throw the O2 sensor off, and stuff goes wonky. This is why @Justin DuBois mentioned the MAP and EMS setup.

As to the bogging only when driving, the turbo doesn't build much boost when sitting, it's when the engine is loaded that it has sufficient exhaust flow and pressure to get the turbo spooled up. The bogging can come from a number of things. I would do a boost leak test to see if you are losing any more charge air.

Also, what turbo is on it - stock or larger? If you're pushing more air than the computer and the fuel system are designed to handle, you'll have problems.

As to properly testing the injectors, I am not experienced with doing this DIY. Others can chime in, but my opinion is that your best bet is to send them out and have them professionally cleaned and flow tested. This way you will find out not only if they flow well, but how they perform at different stages of operation.

I have an idea your issues are most likely not with your injectors, but with improper parts and/or vacuum/boost leaks. Unless you are 100% positive the system is fully supported with all of the mods, you might have to take it back to stock (or as close as possible given the swap) and get it running properly under all conditions, then upgrade properly from there.

 

[Justin DuBois]

I have lots of suggestions, but the first thing you can do to improve the setup has been mentioned - re-circulate the BOV back into the intake to run with a MAF.

 

[3kgtaddict]

I have lots of suggestions, but the first thing you can do to improve the setup has been mentioned - re-circulate the BOV back into the intake to run with a MAF

A log would go a long way to help diagnose this...

From the brief description and pics it would seem parts were put on that aren't properly supported or were "cheap" (there's a reason China doesn't build performance cars). Bolt-on "go fast" parts won't work well unless everything is set to accept those parts - functionally, not physically.

The VTA BOV will cause fuel metering problems if the engine has a MAF setup. The vented air has been figured into the air calculation, so when it vents to the engine compartment instead of back into the intake (recirc), you get a rich situation. That will throw the O2 sensor off, and stuff goes wonky. This is why @Justin DuBois mentioned the MAP and EMS setup.

As to the bogging only when driving, the turbo doesn't build much boost when sitting, it's when the engine is loaded that it has sufficient exhaust flow and pressure to get the turbo spooled up. The bogging can come from a number of things. I would do a boost leak test to see if you are losing any more charge air.

Also, what turbo is on it - stock or larger? If you're pushing more air than the computer and the fuel system are designed to handle, you'll have problems.

As to properly testing the injectors, I am not experienced with doing this DIY. Others can chime in, but my opinion is that your best bet is to send them out and have them professionally cleaned and flow tested. This way you will find out not only if they flow well, but how they perform at different stages of operation.

I have an idea your issues are most likely not with your injectors, but with improper parts and/or vacuum/boost leaks. Unless you are 100% positive the system is fully supported with all of the mods, you might have to take it back to stock (or as close as possible given the swap) and get it running properly under all conditions, then upgrade properly from there.

I know I wish I had a way to datalog. Both of these cars are driving me crazy

So I just had to research how to recirculate the HKS BOV before replying clueless! I didn’t realize I could get an extra pipe for the front of it. The guy in the video said Evo 10s run rich when they’re VTA so is that just a 4g63 thing then?

I’ve had my 3000GT VTA with the vacuum line hooked up to the intake like this for years and never had any problems until now it’s cutting lean popping while cruising. Cleaning the MAF fixed it for a couple days. Changing the IAC valve fixed it for a couple days. I keep thinking I’ve fixed it, but it goes right back to it again. Last time it did this an injector finally failed, but I can’t figure out which one it is that, I’m assuming, is intermittently failing.

Anyway back to the Eclipse. Wouldn’t that unmetered surge of air only throw everything off once it was vented to atmosphere instead of recirculating? Like after building boost, then letting off the gas, losing that air would then confuse everything? I’m probably not understanding fully but I thought it would still accelerate properly. Especially after having my other car run perfect for years set up like that. Or even if my car was running rich, it would still pull hard. This Eclipse however won’t accelerate AT ALL, it falls flat on its face

The turbo is my biggest problem with it because it’s an eBay turbo I’ve just heard horrible things about them. I’m not even sure what size it is. It doesn’t make any funny noises though no shaft play.

I would like to get this thing back to stock if possible though. If anyone is selling a stock turbo!

 

[pauleyman]

So I actually fixed the misfire when I put the old intake manifold gasket back on, apparently the new one that came in the kit was the wrong shape and it was leaking. I only noticed the misfire because one of the exhaust manifoldrunners was 100° cooler than the rest. Now It seems to be running just fine when I rev the engine sitting in neutral it’ll go all the way up through the RPM’s and it’s responsive like it’s supposed to be (except it’s running rich around 13.3 a/f ratio) it’s only when I take it around the block and try to get on the gas that it bogs down now

How do I go about testing the injectors like you’re saying though? I would like to check the injectors on my 3000GT as well as on the Talon, and besides doing the resistance check with the voltmeter, I don’t know how to test them

I’ve had the check engine light come on a few times although it’s off right now. But I can’t figure out how to check the codes. It’s not like my 95 3000GT where I can ground out one of the pins on the port and the light will flash.

I see no mention of any tuning solution. 13.xx AF is NOT rich.

 

[Justin DuBois]

i know I wish I had a way to data log. Both of these cars are driving me crazy

So I just had to research how to recirculate the HKS BOV before replying clueless! I didn’t realize I could get an extra pipe for the front of it. The guy in the video said EVO 10s run rich when they’re VTA so is that just a 4g63 thing then??? I’ve had my 3000GT VTA with the vacuum line hooked up to the intake like this for years and never had any problems until now it’s cutting lean popping while cruising. Cleaning The MAF fixed it for a couple days. Changing the IAC valve fixed it for a couple days. I keep thinking I’ve fixed it, but it goes right back to it again. Last time it did this an injector finally failed, but I can’t figure out which one it is that, I’m assuming, is intermittently failing.

Anyway back to the eclipse.. wouldn’t that unmetered surge of air only throw everything off once it was vented to atmosphere instead of recirculating ? Like after building boost, then letting off the gas, losing that air would then confuse everything ? I’m probably not understanding fully but I thought it would still accelerate properly .Especially after having my other car run perfect for years set up like that . Or even if my car was running rich, it would still pull hard. This eclipse however won’t accelerate AT ALL, it falls flat on its face

The turbo is my biggest problem with it because it’s an eBay turbo I’ve just heard horrible things about them . I’m not even sure what size it is. It doesn’t make any funny noises though no shaft play. I would like to get this thing back to stock if possible though. If anyone is selling a stock turbo !

VTA is no good with MAF - and I don't know why the 3000 was working ok - A MAF measures airflow, and airflow in hz directly controls fuel injection. Any air lost between the MAF and the intake will cause a rich condition.

If the turbo spins without shaft play - it's not your biggest problem. You have plenty of things to learn about on your path back to working correctly.

 

[3kgtaddict]

VTA is no good with MAF - and I don't know why the 3000 was working ok - A MAF measures airflow, and airflow in hz directly controls fuel injection. Any air lost between the MAF and the intake will cause a rich condition.

If the turbo spins without shaft play - it's not your biggest problem. You have plenty of things to learn about on your path back to working correctly.

My bad I’m honestly learning as I go just trying to get this thing as close to stock as possible and running ok. I also just realized the VTA topic has been beaten to death on this forum and I guess it’s hit or miss with DSMs . Some of them VTA with zero issues and some don’t.

I know I have plenty to learn just don’t know where to start . Hopefully I can find a pipe to recirculate my BOV or find a new BOV. Appreciate all the help

I see no mention of any tuning solution. 13.xx AF is NOT rich.

I just don’t have the money for DSM link right now. I want to get it running stock because my friend wants to buy it from me and I can put the money into bigger turbos for my 3000gt . I figured he could get DSM link later if he wants to upgrade .

And really 13 AF isn’t rich? I thought that was my problem and that it’s being caused by my BOV being VTA that everyone told me was wrong??!! Now I’m even more confused!

I have lots of suggestions, but the first thing you can do to improve the setup has been mentioned - re-circulate the BOV back into the intake to run with a MAF.

Any chance I Could I get a couple more suggestions while I search for a new BOV ??

 

[pauleyman]

My bad I’m honestly learning as I go just trying to get this thing as close to stock as possible and running ok. I also just realized the VTA topic has been beaten to death on this forum and I guess it’s hit or miss with DSMs . Some of them VTA with zero issues and some don’t.

I will disagree. All of them probably had problems but each car will react differently depending on the state of maintenance, tune etc. It is a mathematical certainty that if you VTA you've lost counted air and you will briefly get too much fuel, between shifts etc. Just because the car didn't die didn't mean it was right.

I don't even see how a car could ever idle with VTA and a MAF. You would have to fool with the idle which goes against how the car is supposed to operate.

I know I have plenty to learn just don’t know where to start . Hopefully I can find a pipe to recirculate my BOV or find a new BOV. Appreciate all the help

You still didn't tell us about a tuning solution. I can't remember but I thought a 3kgt and 2gdsm MAF are different part numbers. We need more info on this car.

I see what looks like FMIC piping suggesting it is FMIC? What injectors are on the car?
When are you seeing 13 AFR?
You are aware the lower the number the richer it is?

 

[3kgtaddict]

I will disagree. All of them probably had problems but each car will react differently depending on the state of maintenance, tune etc. It is a mathematical certainty that if you VTA you've lost counted air and you will briefly get too much fuel, between shifts etc. Just because the car didn't die didn't mean it was right.
I don't even see how a car could ever idle with VTA and a maf. You would have to fool with the idle which goes against how the car is supposed to operate.

You still didn't tell us about a tuning solution. I can't remember but I thought a 3kgt and 2gdsm maf are different part numbers. We need more info on this car.

I see what looks like fmic piping suggesting it is fmic? What injectors are on the car?
When are you seeing 13 AFR?
You are aware the lower the number the richer it is?

I don’t know I guess I just never noticed any problems with my 3000gt being VTA. It pulled just as hard and ran great for years. It idles fine and always has.

And what do you mean by a tuning solution? I don’t have money for DSMLink so I have no way to tune unless I use the MAF translator that came with the car?

And the MAFs are the same for all 3000 and DSM so it swapped right over. What other info do you need on the car??

Yes FMIC, I think the injectors are stock they don’t look like anything fancy. And I’m seeing 13.3 AF when idling which I know is richer than it’s supposed to be but you said that’s not too rich?? I know it’s not lean and it’s not stoich!

 

[pauleyman]

I don’t know I guess I just never noticed any problems with my 3000gt being VTA. It pulled just as hard and ran great for years. It idles fine and always has.

And what do you mean by a tuning solution? I don’t have money for DSMLink so I have no way to tune unless I use the MAF translator that came with the car?

And the MAFs are the same for all 3000 and DSM so it swapped right over. What other info do you need on the car??

Yes FMIC, I think the injectors are stock they don’t look like anything fancy. And I’m seeing 13.3 AF when idling which I know is richer than it’s supposed to be but you said that’s not too rich?? I know it’s not lean and it’s not stoich!

I didn't catch the at idle part. Is it static? Not cycling? Yiu should be in closed loop at idle and AF will bounce up and down. Difficult to read without a datalog.

 

[steve]

And what do you mean by a tuning solution? I don’t have money for DSMLink so I have no way to tune unless I use the MAF translator that came with the car?

The MAF-T is a tuning solution but not a very good one and only works with a GM hotwire MAF.
If you can't swing for DSMLink then maybe a used SAFC is for you?

And the MAFs are the same for all 3000 and DSM so it swapped right over.

Actually not true. The 3S cars have several different version MAFs depending on which generation and model. Only the Z11A MD183609 is the same as what's used on a 2G DSM. Is that what you're using?

Unlike hotwire MAFs there in nothing inside a Mitsubishi MAF normally to clean and spraying solvent inside can damage them.

There are at least two ways an VTA BOV can cause issues, the one discussed so far it the loss of metered air when it opens but the other is if the BOV does't close/seal because the spring it too soft or it's damaged and it leaks unmetered air into the intake.

 

[3kgtaddict]

I didn't catch the at idle part. Is it static? Not cycling? Yiu should be in closed loop at idle and AF will bounce up and down. Difficult to read without a datalog.

static as in staying on one number and cycling as in going up and down? It moves a little bit, but it generally stays right around 13.3

I can only really compare it toMy 3000 GT when it was running properly would sit right around 14.7 cycling between 14.5-14.9 . Now that I have the lean condition it does the same thing floating around 15.3

The MAF-T is a tuning solution but not a very good one and only works with a GM hotwire MAF.
If you can't swing for DSMLink then maybe a used SAFC is for you?

Yeah, I have the GMMAF in there not hooked up so I could hook up the MAF-T if I need to. I also have an SAFC that I took off the 3000gt so I could install that if I need to as well

Actually not true. The 3S cars have several different version MAFs depending on which generation and model. Only the Z11A MD183609 is the same as what's used on a 2G DSM. Is that what you're using?

Unlike hotwire MAFs there in nothing inside a Mitsubishi MAF normally to clean and spraying solvent inside can damage them.

There are at least two ways an VTA BOV can cause issues, the one discussed so far it the loss of metered air when it opens but the other is if the BOV does't close/seal because the spring it too soft or it's damaged and it leaks unmetered air into the intake.

The Z11A is strictly the front wheel drive right? The MAF I put inthe eclipse is from my FWD non turbo 3000 GT .I’ve always been able to swap my MAF between my turbo and non-turbo 3000GTs with no problems though.

And I got a designated MAF cleaner spray and cleaned it out and it helped my 3000 run better for a day or two. Even using the designated MAF cleaner can damage these ones you’re saying?

And I’ve pressurized my whole system to 20 psi and it holds with no leaks so I don’t think my BOV is leaking

I really appreciate yourguys help. It seems like it runs great until I actually drive it. It’s Driving me crazy!!!

Would it be better if I posted a video of what’s happening?

 

[steve]

The Z11A is strictly the front wheel drive right? The MAF I put in the eclipse is from my FWD non turbo 3000 GT. I’ve always been able to swap my MAF between my turbo and non-turbo 3000GTs with no problems though.

Yes, Z11A is the NA FWD version of the 3S. I never checked to see it there was any MAF differences between the DOHC and SOHC versions(cause I never had a SOHC). Z16A is the TT AWD version. That reminds me I need to find the MAF for mine in the garage mess.

And I got a designated MAF cleaner spray and cleaned it out and it helped my 3000 run better for a day or two. Even using the designated MAF cleaner can damage these ones you’re saying?

Check the label to see if they mention it's not for Kármán MAFs. Most that I've seen tell you that since they are really for cleaning hotwire MAFs where anything coating the resistance wire will throw off the reading. The Kármán MAF's work differently.


To get back on topic, did I miss compression numbers somewhere? Is the problem still that cyl 2 is dead?

 

[pauleyman]

static as in staying on one number and cycling as in going up and down? It moves a little bit, but it generally stays right around 13.3

It should not do that

I can only really compare it toMy 3000 GT when it was running properly would sit right around 14.7 cycling between 14.5-14.9 . Now that I have the lean condition it does the same thing floating around 15.3


Yeah, I have the GMMAF in there not hooked up so I could hook up the MAF-T if I need to. I also have an SAFC that I took off the 3000gt so I could install that if I need to as well


The Z11A is strictly the front wheel drive right? The MAF I put inthe eclipse is from my FWD non turbo 3000 GT .I’ve always been able to swap my MAF between my turbo and non-turbo 3000GTs with no problems though.

And I got a designated MAF cleaner spray and cleaned it out and it helped my 3000 run better for a day or two. Even using the designated MAF cleaner can damage these ones you’re saying?

Yes. As stated the cleaners typically state on the can "not for karmann vortex"

And I’ve pressurized my whole system to 20 psi and it holds with no leaks so I don’t think my BOV is leaking

I really appreciate yourguys help. It seems like it runs great until I actually drive it. It’s Driving me crazy!!!

Would it be better if I posted a video of what’s happening?

 

[3kgtaddict]

Yes, Z11A is the NA FWD version of the 3S. I never checked to see it there was any MAF differences between the DOHC and SOHC versions(cause I never had a SOHC). Z16A is the TT AWD version. That reminds me I need to find the MAF for mine in the garage mess.



Check the label to see if they mention it's not for Kármán MAFs. Most that I've seen tell you that since they are really for cleaning hotwire MAFs where anything coating the resistance wire will throw off the reading. The Kármán MAF's work differently.


To get back on topic, did I miss compression numbers somewhere? Is the problem still that cyl 2 is dead?

Oh nice I just noticed youyou have a 92 TT that’s awesome. I kind of wish I had the 5 speed instead of the 6 speed I miss the long gears in my non turbo! And definitely hang on to those MAFs they’re not easy to come by!!

Really strange I was able to switch the MAF from the z11a into my TT with no change to my lean condition. I had read somewhere that they we’re compatible so i just tried it..

And i didnt realize that hopefully i didn’t damage my MAF cleaning it

And no sorry.. all the way back on post #3 i realized i screwed up using the new intake manifold gasket as there was a massive leak (wrong shape) so I put on the old gasket and it sealed it right up and fixed the dead cylinder. I also found a couple more boost leaks andsealed those up too. Now it seems to be running perfect it runs all the way up through the RPMs No problem until I get on the road and put load on it it bogs down and doesn’t want to accelerate at all

It should not do that

So it should sit dead on 14.7 with no fluctuation at all??

And I feel really dumb now cleaning the MAF sensor. There was a whole bunch of oil in it and cleaning It seemed to help it run perfect again for two days. I hope I didn’t damage it.

 

[steve]

So it should sit dead on 14.7 with no fluctuation at all??

And I feel really dumb now cleaning the MAF sensor. There was a whole bunch of oil in it and cleaning It seemed to help it run perfect again for two days. I hope I didn’t damage it.

When up to temp and idling the ECU should operate in closed loop, also when the car is crusing steady state. In closed loop the ECU dithers the AFR to cause the O2 sensor to switch between lean and rich so the average is 14.7:1. If it's not fluctuating then it's likely not in closed loop and there is something wrong.

I still have the 92 RT/TT but I've also had two NA's a 91 and a 94 that I gave to my kids when they were younger.

 

[3kgtaddict]

When up to temp and idling the ECU should operate in closed loop, also when the car is crusing steady state. In closed loop the ECU dithers the AFR to cause the O2 sensor to switch between lean and rich so the average is 14.7:1. If it's not fluctuating then it's likely not in closed loop and there is something wrong.

I still have the 92 RT/TT but I've also had two NA's a 91 and a 94 that I gave to my kids when they were younger.

So I wanted to drive it before replying again and it honestly feels like it’s driving great, it idles great it accelerates great up to half throttle and even full throttle most of the time. Then I get up to about 4000 RPM and it starts stuttering like crazy and doesn’t want to really go much higher. (which I’m not trying to do until I finish breaking in the engine anyway.) I’m wondering if I should just drive it and break in the motor anyway.. keeping it easy below 4k RPM the way it likes

And OK, I thought it fluctuated at least a little bit. It sits pretty steady @ 13.3-13.4. I definitely need to learn more about open loop and closed loop. The radiator fan kicks on on its own, but now I’m wondering if the ECU is wigging out because of the cars temperature. It’s really odd, the coolant gauge goes up to the middle within a minute of starting the car and the thermostat won’t open unless I drive it and get it a little hotter, but it will never open sitting here Idling (and it’s the stock OE temperature). The fan kicks on on its own and I’ve checked The wire to the gauge (when I ground it It pegs all the way to the top) but it’s normal running temperature is about 3/4 of the way up the gauge and that’s without the thermostat open but it keeps the fan running the whole time I think

That’s awesome I want to do the same thing with my non turbo some day.. Mine are 4 and 6 but they’re getting the concepts of steering down pretty well already while sitting on my lap. They love our “BishiBishis”