2G 2G engine wiring in a 2G with a 1G engine?

[Dihtung Glava]

Starting this thread back up yet again - I've rebuilt most of the car now, I'm about ready to start it. Only problem is still this god damn oil cooler. My parts car doesn't have it, so I was hoping to find a shorter stud when I undid the oil filter on it, but instead the threads the oil filter mounts to apear to be one piece along with the oil filter housing. So now (on the main car) I still just have an oil filter housing with a threaded hole, a cracked oil cooler to mount on top of it and a ridiculously long bolt to hold them together.

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If I buy an aftermarket sandwich plate, will it be thick enough for the bolf to hold it down? Because from what I've seen, the factory oil cooler is thicker than the various sandwich plates and oiil filter adaptors. Not to mention those come with their own bolt that is supposed to thread onto housings with the stud build in - like the one on my parts car. Kinda like this, just not front-facing:

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So does anyone have any suggestions or am I just gonna have to swap the whole housing from the parts car? Or can the short threads actually come out of the housing and I'm just and idiot?

 

[19Eclipse90]

There are some options described in this thread: Simple way to gain some Downpipe clearance

 

[Justin DuBois]

- I've got years of putting 1G stuff in a 2G, and this was a head scratch-er right from the start.

Glad to see you are getting good help here.

What are your plans? Are you going to pull this engine, and fix up all the issues or try to patch it up temporary?

 

[99dsmer4g63]

So one option which is a bit greeeeasy but I’ve seen it work and know people have done it. Cut it clean the threads and reinstall.

Second option is to get this piece

Subaru (OEM) Oil Cooler Delete Fitting, '02-'14 WRX & '04-'21 STi & BRZ/FR-S/86

Check out the deal on Subaru (OEM) Oil Cooler Delete Fitting, '02-'14 WRX & '04-'21 STi & BRZ/FR-S/86 at OAKOS Automotive

www.oakos.com

I run an evo3 housing which eliminates that entire cooler anyways but I’m 7 bolt. I just wanted downpipe clearance.

I think them sandwich adapters are garbage and usually end up leaking and not to mention they look like shit too.

-Daniel

 

[Dihtung Glava]

There are some options described in this thread: Simple way to gain some Downpipe clearance

Cutting occured to me as well, seems simple and effective, thanks! I don't think I'll be cutting it though, I try not to mess with OEM parts just in case I ever need to put things back the way they were.

- I've got years of putting 1G stuff in a 2G, and this was a head scratch-er right from the start.

Glad to see you are getting good help here.

What are your plans? Are you going to pull this engine, and fix up all the issues or try to patch it up temporary?

Yeah, plan is to eventualy have this thing looking and performing like a propper swap. I talk a lot about doing things the right way and seeing projects through on my build page but right now, I'll be happy if the things actually starts. So (regarding the engine) it's patchwork for now, then if it performs alright, I'll keep throwing money at it.

So one option which is a bit greeeeasy but I’ve seen it work and know people have done it. Cut it clean the threads and reinstall.

Second option is to get this piece

Subaru (OEM) Oil Cooler Delete Fitting, '02-'14 WRX & '04-'21 STi & BRZ/FR-S/86

Check out the deal on Subaru (OEM) Oil Cooler Delete Fitting, '02-'14 WRX & '04-'21 STi & BRZ/FR-S/86 at OAKOS Automotive

www.oakos.com

I run an evo3 housing which eliminates that entire cooler anyways but I’m 7 bolt. I just wanted downpipe clearance.

I think them sandwich adapters are garbage and usually end up leaking and not to mention they look like shit too.

-Daniel

I think I won't be cutting it, just because it's OEM and in case I ever need it whole in the future.

Does the hex shape between the 2 threads on an adapter like that interfere with the oil filter at all? Should it be just the threaded body and nothing in the middle?

If yes, I'll probably end up making my own bolt on a lathe or something. Thanks for the advice, I'll try to avoid the sandwich plates then. I do hope I won't need the extra cooling though.


Thanks for the quick answers guys, appreciate you

 

[Justin DuBois]

Does the hex shape between the 2 threads on an adapter like that interfere with the oil filter at all? Should it be just the threaded body and nothing in the middle?

If yes, I'll probably end up making my own bolt on a lathe or something. Thanks for the advice, I'll try to avoid the sandwich plates then. I do hope I won't need the extra cooling though.


Thanks for the quick answers guys, appreciate you

There is space for the hex under the oil filter. The filter edge seal makes contact before the threads on the filter bottom out.

The water/oil sandwich was fine for street cars. The idea is the oil warms up the water for a faster cold start - and the water keeps the oil cool when things get busy. This was supposed to be an improvement for emissions.
Unfortunately, these sandwich are fragile. It is too easy to over torque the oil filter on installation, crushing the chambers, and making tiny leaks that allow for water/oil mixing. This tends to happen when one is paranoid about the filter backing off under vibration.

If you decide to improve this setup, consider an Air/Oil cooler. If I can find space for one, so can you.

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[Dihtung Glava]

There is space for the hex under the oil filter. The filter edge seal makes contact before the threads on the filter bottom out.

The water/oil sandwich was fine for street cars. The idea is the oil warms up the water for a faster cold start - and the water keeps the oil cool when things get busy. This was supposed to be an improvement for emissions.
Unfortunately, these sandwich are fragile. It is too easy to over torque the oil filter on installation, crushing the chambers, and making tiny leaks that allow for water/oil mixing. This tends to happen when one is paranoid about the filter backing off under vibration.

If you decide to improve this setup, consider an Air/Oil cooler. If I can find space for one, so can you.

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I'm planning to put a cooler in that exact spot if mine ever gets too hot. You probably plugged it into the OFH right? I was going to do it like this, but with an aftermarket sandwich plate. But you know, need to get that bolt figured out first

 

[Justin DuBois]

I'm planning to put a cooler in that exact spot if mine ever gets too hot. You probably plugged it into the OFH right? I was going to do it like this, but with an aftermarket sandwich plate. But you know, need to get that bolt figured out first

Yes - OFH
The OFH I have has the filter pointing towards the down pipe. (so clearance issues were also a concern) The oil cooler lines (originally for 1G,GVR4) used banjo fittings. I found AN adaptors, and built hoses to length after fabricating some simple brackets from aluminum stock and a standard setrab oil cooler.

If I was looking today, I'd check to see if there is a compatible EVO style OFH, that has the filter pointing towards the ground. I am curious what front case those are compatible with.

Another thing I would look into is the Auto transmission oil cooler that came on 2Gb's? I think? There might be a whole bracket and ducting setup that could bolt on, and then you would fabricate some hoses for it.

Justin

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[Dihtung Glava]

Well then. Let's start this thread up again shall we? I would just like to apologize to the mods and everyone else, for turning this from a wiring thread to a oil filter housing thread in the first place but I am bringing it back around now, full circle.

So the situation is this:
I've pulled the 1G n/a ("turbo") engine from my main car, as well as the god awfull 3/4 plug wiring harness, galant ECU and everything. I'm building that 6 bolt up with forged internals, to the correct compression ratio for a turbo. I've also pulled the 7 bolt n/a from my parts car along with the very original 4 plug wiring harness. I also have Kryndon's 4 plug 2G turbo ECU on hand.

Out of this pile of parts, I would like to utilize the built 6-bolt engine, the non-modified 4 plug harness and Kryndon's turbo ECU. I understand that might be a tall order so that's why I'm here. I laid the hacked up 1G 3/4 plug mess of a harness next to the all-original 2G n/a 4 plug wiring harness to look for differences and I only found 2, so that's what I wanted to ask about.

The first is the CAS wiring. On the hacked up harness (left), they didn't even have a connector going to it. They just stuck 4 separete wires onto the pins of the 1G CAS. The new harness (right) has a proper connector but it is for a 2G CAS. What is the meta here? Can I put a 2G CAS on my 6-bolt or do I keep the 1G CAS and rewire this branch of the 2G harness?

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Second question is the resistor box. You can see it a couple posts back where I posted my engine bay, sitting on the firewall. The hacked up 1G harness has a wire going from each injector to a grey connector that then plugs into the resistor box:

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The question here is - do I need this? Since I have a new ECU that's specced for a turbo car and the 450cc injectors, specced for a turbo car do I still need the resistor box? Or is it here for some other reason? From what I've read, It seems like it's only a thing on 1Gs with bigger injectors, but my car is on it's way to becoming a 1-2G with the "right" size injectors so I figured I would ask.

Thanks.

 

[19Eclipse90]

Looks like you have a 2Gb unhacked harness so your options are to use a 2Gb CAS and a Kiggly crank sensor (note: requires balance shafts are deleted) or use a 1G CAS with an adapter harness like this one from Sheridan Engineering.

Regarding the resistor pack, yes, you need it with a stock turbo ECU and injectors.

 

[Dihtung Glava]

Alright great, thank you. Seems like the adapter harness route is the way to go. Oh, so do turbo cars of both generations use the resistor pack? The only stock car I have is the parts car and it's not a turbo so I didn't know. And fyi, both your links are for the sheridan engineering harness

 

[19Eclipse90]

Sorry about that. I thought I fixed it but it’s hard to see on the phone. Link fixed now.

All turbo DSMs used the resistor pack for the injectors.

 

[Dihtung Glava]

OK so I've been looking at the Sheridan Engineering link, 3 different wiring diagrams AND this forum for about an hour now and I've come to the conclusion that I have nowhere to plug the green connector pictured here:

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The blue arrow is the 2G cam sensor connector right? And the red is the 1G. So green has to be the crank, right? Now, if I have that right, this 2G diagram shows it to be at the timing cover (A-04).

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But on my 6-bolt there's nothing there! Do old galant engines just not have the crank angle sensor or what?

 

[Dihtung Glava]

Nevermind, I'm dumb as hell. You plug the green plug on the adaptor harness into the green plug on the main harness that has no crank sensor to connect to. That's enough research for today I'm tripping.

 

[19Eclipse90]

Glad you “see it” now. So future readers are clear, the adapter harness mates with both the original 2G cam and crank sensor connectors on the 2G engine harness.

The other end of the adapter harness connects to the 1G cam angle sensor.

 

[Dihtung Glava]

Ordered the adapter harness

only thing that's bugging me now is the 5th (power) wire on the resistor pack. I've seen 3 versions of it's wiring now and I can't tell if they are the same or not. One is what I've read on the forums - like this for 1Gs.

The second is what this 2G turbo diagram shows, where the 5th wire is going from that first dot to 15 different devices which I'm most likely just reading wrong:

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And the third is the mess that I have:

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The red wire on my index finger is from the resistor box. It meets a black wire in the world's most beautiful solder and ends at what would be a 2G's crank sensor.

So are any of these right? This might be a rookie question but it really is the last piece to this wiring puzzle. And I really want to get it right if I am going to be cutting into a perfectly stock harness. Thanks.

 

[19Eclipse90]

The first two are effectively the same thing. The third, your picture, the red from the injector resistor pack ought to go to the red wire on the crank position sensor plug. The black is a ground so it would be incorrect as-is, assuming that the connector is pinned as it was from the factory.

Note the red wire going to the resistor pack and how that same wire is, per your terminology, dot-connected to the crankshaft position sensor at the top left. The dots are called nodes, by the way.

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But, yes, the power to the injectors is the same power used for multiple devices.

 

[Dihtung Glava]

Ah, so I just have to solder it where that first d̶o̶t̶ node is and it should be good. No need to trace all the other locations it goes to if I understand this right?

I'm sorry about my terminology , this is all completely new to me.

I am excited to do this though, I love to learn, especially about things I know so little about.

Thanks again.

 

[19Eclipse90]

Correct. In this instance, a power wire for one of the injectors is going to be the same as a power wire to the ISC / IAC or CPS.

If you’re starting with a non-turbo harness, the link to the 1G method makes sense because you must separate the power wires from all injectors to insert the resistor anyway. And then your work is focused in a specific area rather than potentially disturbing other systems.