1cleangsx
Proven Member
- 1,108
- 1,268
- Sep 28, 2013
-
Cheyenne,
Wyoming
Heck yeah man it’s a 1st world problem , hope you get her sorted out so you can continue to rip around and show her off
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What’s crazy is a good stock valve cover core is hard to find. I just had one powder coated with welded baffles and bungs and it cost me 470.00Well that's a bummer about the MCR valve cover being an oil gusher.
I guess the valve cover is one more item I can add to the "Leave well enough alone" list.
I will just hope that my stock valve cover never cracks like the old one did.
Thanks for the story on the MCR.
Well, it's not good at all for oil separation haha. I do have a kiggly piece but the the pores in the baffle are sitting right on the top of the oil squirters in the head. They just splash right up to the pores. I think my little drain I made has worked though. I'm no fabricator by any means so if this turns out to to not work in the long run I'll have a little plate fabricated.That baffle design doesn't look like it's gonna be a good one for oil separation. @Vegas Smith do you have a kiggla hla regulator? that really helped mine keep oil in the motor vs the catch can.
I would also think you could make a better tin plate to help it separate the oil better.
I think my little drain I made has worked though.
I wound up slicing a 1/4" off the exhaust-side of the baffle so that oil can drain out of it. I noticed that oil was coming out the exhaust-side port mostly and that's because the engine is actually slanted downward towards the front bumper. I figured oil was pooling there. and I guess I was right because I'm not getting really any oil out of the catch can now.What did you do for a drain?
I wound up buying 2 rolls of 3M 03614 and some 3M adhesion promoter. I have to say, the Factor Service Manual was not much help. It called for two different sizes of molding tape but I couldn't find the thicker version mentioned in the FSM. I wound just doubling up on the the thin tape to equal the thicker requirement.
We used a wire wheel to remove any old sealant/tape then re-taped when the surfaces where clean and ready.
I ordered some new clips for the panels and they worked out great:
I'm fully aware that I'm no body-shop professional. I tried my best and I may try and perfect everything in the future if I can find the exact components I need (correct sealant, correct size molding tape, second set of hands). With all that being said, it came out OK. If you really get up close you can tell it's not perfect but it's a million times better than when I bought the car. I'll be ready to perfect it int he future should I run out of projects for a length of time.
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I wound up slicing a 1/4" off the exhaust-side of the baffle so that oil can drain out of it. I noticed that oil was coming out the exhaust-side port mostly and that's because the engine is actually slanted downward towards the front bumper. I figured oil was pooling there. and I guess I was right because I'm not getting really any oil out of the catch can now.
I like it. It's at around 31psi and 8* timing. Its roughly as powerful as my old htz76 setup that was pushing it hard on like 36psi and 15-16*. Some time this year I'll take it to the dyno and turn it up but I just don't care right now. It's ridiculously fast and it's a street car so there isn't that much to gain by turning it up.How are you liking that 7164s so far?
Thanks man, glad someone is enjoying the build.That’s awesome man! Your car/build is somewhat of an inspiration for my own, as I also just want a “fun” streetcar thats well rounded and hopefully won’t break every other weekend .
Thanks but what about the car, not me.SEXAY
Meh its coming along nice I guessThanks but what about the car, not me.
It better be. All the work is done by Mike Caunder.Meh its coming along nice I guess
It better be. All the work is done by Mike Caunder.
No interest in taking it to the track any time soon.Are you gonna run her at the track this year?