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Street Build 1G Build: Return of the DSMer!

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Well that's a bummer about the MCR valve cover being an oil gusher.
I guess the valve cover is one more item I can add to the "Leave well enough alone" list.
I will just hope that my stock valve cover never cracks like the old one did.
Thanks for the story on the MCR.
What’s crazy is a good stock valve cover core is hard to find. I just had one powder coated with welded baffles and bungs and it cost me 470.00
 
That baffle design doesn't look like it's gonna be a good one for oil separation. @Vegas Smith do you have a kiggla hla regulator? that really helped mine keep oil in the motor vs the catch can.

I would also think you could make a better tin plate to help it separate the oil better.
 
That baffle design doesn't look like it's gonna be a good one for oil separation. @Vegas Smith do you have a kiggla hla regulator? that really helped mine keep oil in the motor vs the catch can.

I would also think you could make a better tin plate to help it separate the oil better.
Well, it's not good at all for oil separation haha. I do have a kiggly piece but the the pores in the baffle are sitting right on the top of the oil squirters in the head. They just splash right up to the pores. I think my little drain I made has worked though. I'm no fabricator by any means so if this turns out to to not work in the long run I'll have a little plate fabricated.
 
What did you do for a drain?
I wound up slicing a 1/4" off the exhaust-side of the baffle so that oil can drain out of it. I noticed that oil was coming out the exhaust-side port mostly and that's because the engine is actually slanted downward towards the front bumper. I figured oil was pooling there. and I guess I was right because I'm not getting really any oil out of the catch can now.
 
I wound up buying 2 rolls of 3M 03614 and some 3M adhesion promoter. I have to say, the Factor Service Manual was not much help. It called for two different sizes of molding tape but I couldn't find the thicker version mentioned in the FSM. I wound just doubling up on the the thin tape to equal the thicker requirement.





We used a wire wheel to remove any old sealant/tape then re-taped when the surfaces where clean and ready.

I ordered some new clips for the panels and they worked out great:



I'm fully aware that I'm no body-shop professional. I tried my best and I may try and perfect everything in the future if I can find the exact components I need (correct sealant, correct size molding tape, second set of hands). With all that being said, it came out OK. If you really get up close you can tell it's not perfect but it's a million times better than when I bought the car. I'll be ready to perfect it int he future should I run out of projects for a length of time.

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Looks good man!! If you ever want some tips in the paint/body department let me know, thats what i do for a living. (Not to hijack an old thread)
Also they make whats called an eraser wheel for removing decals and double sided tape. It goes on a cut off wheel. (Air pressure adjusting valve recommended)
Spin it slow, few hundred rpms, and take your time. Try not to stay in one spot for more then a second or two, it will burn paint (and that never goes away)
Looks good man! Keep up the good work! Have fun, and kick some a$$ with that bad little dudeski you got there!
 
I wound up slicing a 1/4" off the exhaust-side of the baffle so that oil can drain out of it. I noticed that oil was coming out the exhaust-side port mostly and that's because the engine is actually slanted downward towards the front bumper. I figured oil was pooling there. and I guess I was right because I'm not getting really any oil out of the catch can now.

Ok so you put a hole or a gap at the low point of the whole baffle area, so any puddled oil can just fall out of there. Makes sense. Man I'm glad that works. Seems pretty doable without hurting anything. Looks like you can unscrew that whole sheet and take it out of there to work on it.
 
How are you liking that 7164s so far?
I like it. It's at around 31psi and 8* timing. Its roughly as powerful as my old htz76 setup that was pushing it hard on like 36psi and 15-16*. Some time this year I'll take it to the dyno and turn it up but I just don't care right now. It's ridiculously fast and it's a street car so there isn't that much to gain by turning it up.
In comparison to the htz76, which has a much smaller compressor and turbine, it maybe spools a tiny bit slower and is slightly less responsive. These are obvious and expected differences between the two turbos but my point is it's still really streetable, fun to drive, and not as lazy as you would expect for a 700hp turbo. I've been messing with my cam gears and advanced both gears 3* and the car feels identical down low/midrange if not even stronger than the htz76. I don't even bother to REALLY get on it lately as I want to live to see my son grow up. Overall, great turbo so far but sometimes I think I should have stayed with the htz76 because that's pretty much the power level I wanted anyways. However, this turbo is also as responsive and will make the power MUCH easier and will be easier on the engine. Plus, it looks 1000x better than the old setup and I unapologetically value looks.
 
That’s awesome man! Your car/build is somewhat of an inspiration for my own, as I also just want a “fun” streetcar thats well rounded and hopefully won’t break every other weekend LOL.
 
Put together the COP system with plate I had laying around

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