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Street Build Resurrection of the Red 90 Talon

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I wanted to wait until tomorrow BUT......
It's Titanium MONDAY. I had a Dr appt and used the rest of this really nice day to do some small stuff. I totally goofed....I had to take the water tube OFF to mount the motor mount/PS bracket mount but that was just ONE bolt so YAY!!!
Here are a few new mockup pics. The intake, I am using, the exhaust is just to keep stuff out of the head until I get it in the car but helps the pictures look better, ROFL:thumb:
Thanks for following along....AGAIN...
Marty :)

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I bet most of you have forgotten about the Red 90 Talon in my profile so it is time for some updates and its Re-Build Thread!
Here she is...View attachment 618978

About 3 years ago, the motor had a fit and bent all 16 valves on the way to a car show so she got put on the back burner. Well, now she is being resurrected to join the others in the herd. I don't have a build thread for her so this is a good place to start, I guess.

I had to get her motor out and tear it down to make sure there was no other damage, like to the pistons, crank etc. I noticed that the cylinders had some scratching on them and the engine barely had 1000 miles on it. I attribute it to butting rings on 40+ lbs of boost so this time around the rings all got hand gapped, all valves hand lapped, cylinders rehoned and all reassembled by yours truly.
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The crank looked fantastic, as it should and the cylinders all honed out nice. I found some “artifacts” in the oil pan, namely the 3 oil squirters that had mysteriously broken off. Hmmmm
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I procured a used set of squirters from a great member on here that has been my go to used parts man and sent my head to the machine shop to be re-surfaced. I bought all new SuperTech nitrided valves, a set of Kiggly Beehive springs and retainers and did all of the assembly myself. The valve job itself was done by my local machinist, but I do all of the lapping and final checks.
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I ordered up a new set of ACL Race rod bearings and a new set of Manley rings to bring the shortblock up to as new status. When I took the pistons out (to make sure the rings would still float in the lands after crashing all 16 valves), the rod bearings looked GREAT and they should have but you never know. I gapped all of the rings for high boost and deglazed the cylinders which turned out very nice too.
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I was about ready to close her up after checking clearances and my son noticed my oil pan had a baffle that was loose. I didn’t think I could weld it and have it stay so I just took tin snips and removed the part that was loose, we will see if that has any effect on the motor.
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So after another once over on all the parts, I grabbed my favorite RTV and got the oil pan ready. It went on smooth as a whistle and currently I am at the point of getting the HLA’s, rockers and the new set of Kiggly 272 cams in the head and it will be motor assembly (fun) time. Stay tuned as I plan to try and have her back up and running this spring. She has a 3rd gear grind that I have to address but then she is ready for stalking the streets again with her QM twin this time around.
A few extra pictures..........View attachment 618991
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Marty
How did this happen ? The bent valves, timing belt?
 
Oh, you haven't visited the "Way Back" machine about the car.....
Going to a car show, lower timing bolt/pulley came loose and lost all 16 valves when the belt skipped, taking out a LOT of time for the car. She has sisters.... Not doing that again. Members said "use locktite" so, against my normal judgment, you dam straight I will be, LOL. That's what happened.
Then the latest ♥️ had a issue of some sort this last summer so she has been parked, waiting on a NEW ❤️ and it is about ready.
 
Well it was time to put fresh valve cover gaskets and well seals in, since it is just barely above freezing ATM, and I found THIS after I had the VC upsidedown:
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It is the reason you never ASSUME things are clean, even if they LOOK clean!
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That stuff would have eaten up bearings and put an engine to an early grave. It's just particles from blasting and some powder coat but I washed it all out and blew the water and soap out of it then rinse and repeat!
Just updates and pointers as I can give them (and dam glad to find that stuff so I could post about it)
Marty
 
OK I have an issue you Gearheads! My half shaft doesn't want to bolt up to my block flush on the back bolt. There is some block oil pan rail casting that it hits. Can anyone tell me why this is happening. Wrong shaft? It's a 6 bolt stick car motor. It shouldn't need a spacer on the rear bolt that holds the shaft to the block. I'm puzzled.
Thanks everyone! 😊
Marty

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You’re missing the ac bracket so the one closest to the drivers side does need the oem spacer if you don’t have it. Shouldn’t need any spacer for the other passenger side bolt though.

I have the spacer in question if you want it. Toss me your address and I’ll throw it your way for free.

Edit: is there any chance you put that bracket on the shaft backwards?
 
Let me see. The bracket has never been changed to my knowledge, came in a 1990 car. Has no markings and bolts up but hits the block where the "green" marks are. I'll test it on a 98 split thrust block and see.
Also, those are just some random bolts to hold it in place for mockup. I have the original bolts on the other motor, this just has me puzzled.
Take a look.
Thanks for the input all!

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Let me see. The bracket has never been changed to my knowledge, came in a 1990 car. Has no markings and bolts up but hits the block where the "green" marks are. I'll test it on a 98 split thrust block and see.
Also, those are just some random bolts to hold it in place for mockup. I have the original bolts on the other motor, this just has me puzzled.
Take a look.
Thanks for the input all!

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I just realized the axle is not splined into the trans. Maybe with the combination of washers and the fact that it’s hanging not connected to the trans it is hitting due to the sag. Probably if you got the correct spacer and it was splined into the trans it wouldn’t hit.
 
I just realized the axle is not splined into the trans. Maybe with the combination of washers and the fact that it’s hanging not connected to the trans it is hitting due to the sag. Probably if you got the correct spacer and it was splined into the trans it wouldn’t hit.
Bolted up it shouldnt be able to sag.

The passenger side shouldnt need spacers. Without ac bracket normal spacer is 8mm. Make sure thats what your washer stack measures
 
What is strange is I can't get it to bolt up flat on the rear bolt. It cocks the bracket out if I don't use a couple washers on it too. I will look at it again tonight. Maybe I am just scared I will break the bracket if I try. I will try again. I haven't ever had one that didn't mate to the block as its suppose to.
Thanks fella's!

I just realized the axle is not splined into the trans. Maybe with the combination of washers and the fact that it’s hanging not connected to the trans it is hitting due to the sag. Probably if you got the correct spacer and it was splined into the trans it wouldn’t hit.
When the half shaft bolts up to the block, it squares itself up, ready for the transmission. I have a stock motor with 100k on it that is on a stand, with the half shaft on it (that I have been comparing it to this one). They don't really "sag" unless the bearing is shot. Whatever the issue is, when I/we figure it out, this thread will have a conclusion so any others can read what the deal was.

Here is a stock 1990 with the halfshaft bolted up the correct way. I have the old A/C bracket but that doesn't seem to be the problem on this other block.

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What is strange is I can't get it to bolt up flat on the rear bolt. It cocks the bracket out if I don't use a couple washers on it too. I will look at it again tonight. Maybe I am just scared I will break the bracket if I try. I will try again. I haven't ever had one that didn't mate to the block as its suppose to.
Thanks fella's!


When the half shaft bolts up to the block, it squares itself up, ready for the transmission. I have a stock motor with 100k on it that is on a stand, with the half shaft on it (that I have been comparing it to this one). They don't really "sag" unless the bearing is shot. Whatever the issue is, when I/we figure it out, this thread will have a conclusion so any others can read what the deal was.

Here is a stock 1990 with the halfshaft bolted up the correct way. I have the old A/C bracket but that doesn't seem to be the problem on this other block.

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If you bolt it with no spacer and an 8mm stack on the ac side how far can you go before it hits block?

It can be resting on the block with no ill effects, you just dont want to bend or break ears
 
Have a look.....
I have the solution/resolution.......
The rear (short) bolt is tight....
:cool:;)

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So.....I went to the shop and went to my 98 Split Thrust block, and viola, it is made for it. I bought a used halfshaft that needs a new bearing from my good buddy @jersygsx and it came in today. It fits PERFECT so I took the other (and it came out of a 1g car, in the floorboard, but in the car) halfshaft to the other engine and it fits perfect also, on that block so the problem was I had the wrong halfshaft for my year of motor.
Thank you ALL for scratching YOUR heads too! I sure appreciate you ALL 🙏!!!!
Halfshaft fitment issues RESOLVED!!!
Marty

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