The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Winter 07/08 Projects and Plans?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Well, since no vendor makes a "sunroof plug" I had to cut out a parts roof. What I will probably end up doing, is make a template for the hole in my current roof, and cut it out of this parts roof. I'll most likely have a buddy of mine that owns a body shop do this for me.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
That exactly what I wanted to do with my parts car, but it was in my way so I had the junkyard take it. I should see if they still have it.
 
Thanks for the imput guys, what are the big brake upgrades for our cars again? The 3k sl rotos will bolt up to our 93 caliper correct
 
Two weeks before your first event?
In Colorado?

What is it, an ice race?
Haha, it's been in the 60's for the better part of two weeks now. Might even be in the 70's for our first event... or it could snow/rain. Who knows! That's the thing about Colorado, you never know what you're going to get.
 
Please share what you've heard. The flange is pretty thick and right now it sits flat on a granite surface plate. It doesn't have the "groove" found on the stocker but it utilizes studs so I can torque it a little higher. Is there a superior gasket sealer out their that is preferable over your typical permatex stuff? I absolutely HATE leaks and if this thing does I will be extremely disappointed!
I couldn't get that pan to fit since I was using ARP studs.
 
Thanks for the imput guys, what are the big brake upgrades for our cars again? The 3k sl rotos will bolt up to our 93 caliper correct
If you need something bigger than the factory big brakes, go with TCE Performance Products. They've got a ton of options to meet your budget and braking needs. They don't just have one generic kit. And you can get something that will perform as good as any other kit on the market for hundreds less.
 
I ran stock rear brakes and a super aggressive Carbotech pad. The rears never got hot and never wore down all season. If I had kept the car (like I said somewhere above) I was going to put a proportioning valve in to get more work out of the rears. Unless you do that, big rotors, Evo calipers, aggressive pads and cooling won't do diddly, because the rears don't contribute much.

Someone said they are running Powerslops on the rears. That's probably the only application where it is safe to run those crappy rotors, because they don't have to do anything. Whatever you do, don't put them on the front. I broke (as in BROKE IN HALF!!) two Powerslops on my 3000GT, and that gets plumb scary when it happens. Underradar explained about the ABS system on 3000GTs: if it wasn't for that (and long grassy runoffs) I woulda been in big trouble both times I broke 'em. Stay away from Powerslops.
TCE makes a rear kit that would improve rear braking. The only drawback is that you lose the parking brake. Now exactly how necessary is the parking brake? I always use it when I park (not at the track obviously) but I imagine I could just throw the car in gear in a situation where I drive the car on the street or in the garage. At the track I could chock the wheels...

Can someone come up with a scenario where the parking brake would really be missed?
 
Huh, strange. I don't have ARP's on the mains but I can't imagine that they would stick out beyond the casting brace of the mains. What did you end up doing?
Yeah I can't remember now... maybe it was because I have a 2.3L, I don't know, but I returned the pan.
 
TCE makes a rear kit that would improve rear braking. The only drawback is that you lose the parking brake. Now exactly how necessary is the parking brake? I always use it when I park (not at the track obviously) but I imagine I could just throw the car in gear in a situation where I drive the car on the street or in the garage. At the track I could chock the wheels...

Can someone come up with a scenario where the parking brake would really be missed?
Two of three (three of four, temporarily, eventually to be three of three.) of my vehicles are manual trans. equipped and not having that well established "autohabit" in any one vehicle may bite me eventually. It may be a bit of OCD but I just don't like using the transmission as a park sprag.

TCE has a kit that runs the stock caliper on an 11.75(?)" rotor, that may prove to be plenty of rear brake for an AWD DSM. Even in a fast-ish/heavy car at Road America.

I am unconvinced that these things are under-braked out back.
 
Winter finally rolled around here in Texas (yes it was 80 degrees out side). Crawled into the garage and finally got cracking on a few upgrades. Also discovered the source of my 'mystery' noise after my last event in Feb. The wheel bearing had no play at lunch Sun. when I changed pads to finish my last two sessions. After the last session there was a 'clunking' sound when I would load the drive train. Close call...Anyone know of stronger wheel bearings?

More pics: Picasa Web Albums - asian312 - Suspension an...
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Yep replaced both fronts during the change over. I've been through 3 O'Reilly wheel bearing/hub assemblies over the past year an half on the passenger side. This one on the driver side was the original OEM unit with 150K plus miles on it. When OReilly finally tells me I'm not allowed to warranty anymore, I'll probably go OEM again.

Is anyone else wearing out wheel bearings this quickly? I know moving to the 255s and tracking as often as I do isn't going to help the lifespan of these units, but they seem to loosen up after 4-5 weekends.

Also I noticed the SPC arms remove quite a bit of travel due to the design of ball joint adjustment piece. For the mean time I'll be changing the bumpstops on my Konis for longer pieces, but have also thrown around the idea for a new setup. On one hand I've talked to Mr. Mueller and he recommends the JICs as the RRE upper camber plates were not designed for a 2.25 coilover setup and to take the load of a coaxial hat on the bearing. On the other I know there are individuals who have recreated DG's setup using those plates. Or I could always go Ground Control w/ RRE plates. Any input from those tracking their cars?
 
Yep replaced both fronts during the change over. I've been through 3 O'Reilly wheel bearing/hub assemblies over the past year an half on the passenger side. This one on the driver side was the original OEM unit with 150K plus miles on it. When OReilly finally tells me I'm not allowed to warranty anymore, I'll probably go OEM again.

Is anyone else wearing out wheel bearings this quickly? I know moving to the 255s and tracking as often as I do isn't going to help the lifespan of these units, but they seem to loosen up after 4-5 weekends.

Also I noticed the SPC arms remove quite a bit of travel due to the design of ball joint adjustment piece. For the mean time I'll be changing the bumpstops on my Konis for longer pieces, but have also thrown around the idea for a new setup. On one hand I've talked to Mr. Mueller and he recommends the JICs as the RRE upper camber plates were not designed for a 2.25 coilover setup and to take the load of a coaxial hat on the bearing. On the other I know there are individuals who have recreated DG's setup using those plates. Or I could always go Ground Control w/ RRE plates. Any input from those tracking their cars?

I have the RRE plates but have not tracked THIS car yet (Jtoby's). Maybe if this snow melts soon I'll be able to let ya know.

I've always used the OEM Wheel bearings. Never really had an issue after replacing them.
 
Mind breaking down the suspension setup? Pics?

My Complete and Current Suspension setup:
Koni Sport Shocks
GC sleeves, perches, & coaxial hats
RRE pillowballs
HyperCoil Springs (850lb Front / 425lb Rear)
RM-DSM Front and Rear Sway Bars
Redrilled front upper A-arms (2.5 degrees camber)
ES lower front bushings
Flipped driver's compression arm (4.5 degrees caster)
Rear Camber Kit (Shims)
TCE Wilwood Brake Kit (front):
-13in X 1.25in Rotor, Aluminum Hats
-Wilwood FSL 4-plot Calipers
-SS Brake Lines
-PolyMatrix B pads for track, "D" pads for street
ATE Super Blue DOT4 Brake Fluid
Wheels:
Street: 19in SSR's w/ Potenza RE070 Tires
Track: 17in RSA's w/ Toyo Proxy RA1's 235/40/17
Track/Rain: 17x8 +40mm ASA IS6s with 245/40/17 Kumho SPTs

No pics yet.
 
Just speculating.
- 2.5" springs
- Were the Konis revalved to handle that high of a spring rate?

The coaxial hat and setup is the part that has me stumped. Is there are spacer between the spherical bearing and the top of the hat? Anyone know where you can get a hat for 2.5" springs that fit a Koni shaft? And will this cause premature wear?
 
Just speculating.
- 2.5" springs
- Were the Konis revalved to handle that high of a spring rate?

The coaxial hat and setup is the part that has me stumped. Is there are spacer between the spherical bearing and the top of the hat? Anyone know where you can get a hat for 2.5" springs that fit a Koni shaft? And will this cause premature wear?

I have yet to tear apart the suspension. I believe the koni sports should handle an 850lb spring rate but probably nothing higher. I may go 750lb, not 100% sure yet. I need to get the rest of the car all completed so I can throw the car on my corner-weighting scales and then decide from there. Currently there are 650lb springs in the front, but i think they need to be a tad bit higher.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top