Plans for the 08-09 offseason?

[Icarus]

I'm currently using these rear upper control arms. Control Arms 3SX TT Camber#-#Mitsubishi 3000GT#/#Dodge Stealth I just pulled the rear camber bolt all the way in then I use the control arm to adjust rear camber.

On another note, I have been looking into what is compatable between the Mitsu cars when it comes to suspension design. Out of necessity I have been looking at used parts compatable with the Talon. I don't have a lot of money to spend on my car and have only a little less than $2000 in total money spent on my car including wheels and tires.

I currently have Tein Basics from an EVO 8. I modded the rears like the writeup on the VR-4 forum and have EVO 8 top mounts and spring insulators in the rear. The fronts can use stock top mounts or camber plates like I have now.

I know the rear suspension on the EVO is completely different from a 1G, but the front suspension is pretty similar. The only diffrence between the 1G and EVO front suspension that I have noticed is bolt spacing of the front top mounts and larger bolts (14mm vs. 12mm) on the strut tabs which are also set farther apart. A couple things have come to mind:
1. The lower control arm design looks similar and may be interachangeable as long as the bushing are compatable. Stiffer and lighter control arms would be nice.
2. If geometry of the tabs is compatable with the 1G, the ball join and tie rod ends should be campatable or adaptable. This leaves only the hub and bearing as mystery parts and may be compatable or adaptable. This would allow the use of stock Brembos and rotors up front.

EVO

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1G

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In the 3sx link above you can see how similar the the 3000gt VR-4 and 1G rear suspension are. I think I remember reading that the knuckles are interchangeable. If that's the case we should be able to use larger 3kgt VR-4 rear brakes. The 2g VR-4 had massive 296mm rear rotors. I'm thinking the only real problem is the 3kgt e-brake.

 

[Ludachris]

You are really cranking out some great ideas. The idea of having a v banded exhaust with multiple options is pure genius! I really like that idea. Maybe one purely built for racing like you said and one complete with a cat for emissions.
I think it would be easier to build a purpose built race car but our cars are just way too fun to drive just on the track. I really haven't seen many trailer queen DSMs.

I wouldn't call it genius necessarily. I've seen this done by many people. I just can't see not driving my car on the street at all. I want it to be a track car, but would like to do things like drive it to some DSM meets or give my friends/family a ride on the street when they visit. I won't ever drive it to work or anything like that (not without a heater). But I would like the option to drive it on the street when I want.

 

[Ludachris]

I'm currently using these rear upper control arms. Control Arms 3SX TT Camber#-#Mitsubishi 3000GT#/#Dodge Stealth I just pulled the rear camber bolt all the way in then I use the control arm to adjust rear camber.

On another note, I have been looking into what is compatable between the Mitsu cars when it comes to suspension design. Out of necessity I have been looking at used parts compatable with the Talon. I don't have a lot of money to spend on my car and have only a little less than $2000 in total money spent on my car including wheels and tires.

I currently have Tein Basics from an EVO 8. I modded the rears like the writeup on the VR-4 forum and have EVO 8 top mounts and spring insulators in the rear. The fronts can use stock top mounts or camber plates like I have now.

I know the rear suspension on the EVO is completely different from a 1G, but the front suspension is pretty similar. The only diffrence between the 1G and EVO front suspension that I have noticed is bolt spacing of the front top mounts and larger bolts (14mm vs. 12mm) on the strut tabs which are also set farther apart. A couple things have come to mind:
1. The lower control arm design looks similar and may be interachangeable as long as the bushing are compatable. Stiffer and lighter control arms would be nice.
2. If geometry of the tabs is compatable with the 1G, the ball join and tie rod ends should be campatable or adaptable. This leaves only the hub and bearing as mystery parts and may be compatable or adaptable. This would allow the use of stock Brembos and rotors up front.

EVO

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1G

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In the 3sx link above you can see how similar the the 3000gt VR-4 and 1G rear suspension are. I think I remember reading that the knuckles are interchangeable. If that's the case we should be able to use larger 3kgt VR-4 rear brakes. The 2g VR-4 had massive 296mm rear rotors. I'm thinking the only real problem is the 3kgt e-brake.

Yeah, I really need to look into the Evo front suspension components. I think there is some good potential there.

And good info on the 3Si rear suspension. I had no idea they were similar to a 1g. I'll check into that too.

 

[mavisky]

Here's a project I think I'm going to take on this winter as well... custom fiberglass fender flares. I've taken a photo that was posted by a member who has flares and did some photoshop work to show how I'll customize the flares to look more like they're made for my car....

Before:

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After:

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I'll just have to start learning some fiberglassing skills.

Chris those are the same flares as mine. If you're going to go to that much trouble I'd fiberglass them into the car and then cut the bumper free through the flare so you can still detach it easily. Much like what Greg did with his originally.

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Personally I'm going to rebuild the bottom end to stock specs and then if noone buys it I'll swap the rear bumper over for the 90-91 and the matching tails since I have the side exit now. Then I'm going to have to cut some more metal out behind the flares (front and rear) and then lower the rear and front just a hair more after I make an adjustable panhard rod. If I still have the car at that point I'll add a front swaybar to it and stiffen up the rear bar to compensate.

 

[tsiboosted]

That is one of my summer plans is to flare out the front and rear to get some more meat to the track. I'll be learning along the way to weld (better) and be a half @$$ body man. But I'm sure I will sue it down the road again sometime. Good skill to learn anyway in racing.

 

[tsiboosted]

Well, Jon from TRE gave me a call yesterday to let me know the tranny was there and that 3rd and 4th gear were in fact toast. Nothing I really wasnt expecting to hear from him. So, all new Stage 3 with LSD going in and hopefully will be back to me here in Florida before the new year so I can try and make Round #4 of the series. If not, I will have to wait till February to get back in the racing action. Crossing my fingers everything will pull together so I can get back on the track in January.

 

[v413nc3]

This winter the only thing on the list was mirrors, a solution to my IC pipes coming off, a change in the dry sump system, and a small amount of aero work.

 

[housegsx]

Once this cold weather goes away I'm going to get to the garage and start installing a couple of my Christmas presents. A 30psi boost guage, a Fluidampr harmonic balancer, and Energy Suspension bushings. My Winter mods tend to be more like late Spring rushing to get them done mods. I hate a cold garage.

One good things about Longacre is they make great products and nothing on this list is over $140. The Camber/Caster gauge is the most expensive at $136.99. I hope this helps you out.


Starting out with the Longacre Camber/Caster Gauge. It will measure the camber and up to 20 degrees of caster as well without having to use different gauges.

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I will also be using the Longacre Quick Set Adapter for the gauge as well. It has 3 points to measure the camber/caster bascially on any wheel with an almost hands free design.

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Longacre Toe Plates w/Tapes provides one of the quickest and simplest ways to measure toe-in on your car. You just have to rest one plate on the side of each tire and use the tape measure to find your setting. Works on most any tire up to 20 1/2" diameter at the sidewall.

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Eddie, have you tried these tools out yet? I'm looking to do alignments myself if possible and would love to know your thoughts on what you've purchased.

 

[TKW#13]

Checking in with my projects. I just got my Evo III 16g with punishment racing J pipe, Evo 8 injectors, and DSM link is all now installed. I have sent my red Enkei NT-03 to get painted NOS Energy drinks blue (they are one of my sponsors). I am installing my new Walboro 255 pump this weekend. I am going to race at Miller Motorsports Park in Lapbattle races and SCCA track days. Redline time attack usually comes out but I do not see Miller on there schedule. If I put a cage in my car then I can run MPRA race series.

 

[1LE]

Haven't done anything with my DSM this Winter. Spent a lot of time thinking about what I want to do after I was forced to withdraw from Son of Sno*Drift due to an extreme amount of snow at my place.

Other than a road rally here and there and perhaps going out to work a performance rally event or 2, I think I'm done racing. Last time out at Nelson Ledges I had fun, but the thrill wasn't there any more. Been bored with autox and rallyx for awhile. I think I'm going to go a different direction with my life now. Am getting married and have my pilot's license now. Maybe I'll run into you guys somewhere. Hopefully I will anyways. I'm not completely abandoning playing with cars, just won't be actively racing. I'll probably pop in at an event now and again to say hi. Am planning on keeping my current cars, but have my eye on a Cayman right now as well...

Best wishes to those of you prepping for this season, go out there and show those non-DSMers how it's done!

 

[tsiboosted]

Erik - My car is actually still at the transmission shop. But I did use the camber gauge on my daily driver and my girlfriends car and they worked great. They are good quality products well made.

Hopefully my car will be ready to come back to the garage today or tomorrow so I can start getting everything on and ready for the event in 2 weeks.

 

[tsiboosted]

Well, the car is FINALLY back in my garage Tranmission is in and good to go. Loads of work to do before next weekends event. Did a little work last night....But ran into a snag when I was doing the brakes. It sat outside for too long and the rotors are rusted on. Going to try a few things to get those off and get this thing back rolling. Just have a lot of little things to do that add up to a lot of things to do before next Friday. Im just glad to finally have the car back so all this stuff can get done.

 

[Ludachris]

Good feeling huh Eddie? Get to work will ya? Haha. Keep us up to date on the progress. I'm hoping I'll have some time this weekend to finally start wrenching on my pile.

 

[tsiboosted]

Good feeling huh Eddie? Get to work will ya? Haha. Keep us up to date on the progress. I'm hoping I'll have some time this weekend to finally start wrenching on my pile.

LoL...It is a good feeling Chris. Long nights ahead for sure. Just have to get these rusty rotors off somehow and we will be back in business on moving forward. At an almost stand still now. Good luck on getting back on your car this weekend. Take some time to watch the Super Bowl though

 

[underradar92]

As some of you may (or not) noticed, I've been in a holding pattern as of late, but a few things have been going my way so... I've located a fresh transmission (Thanks, Tim [Twicks69]) with a GVR4 first gear and it looks as though I may be able to make it to R. A. MFBA at Road America in 2008! this spring! Saaweeeet!

I'm baaack! And it feel so good.

 

[talonTSIDriver]

Wow it’s been a while. Good to hear you guys are having some luck. Spring is coming fast and it’s about time!

I sold my evo VIII and am shopping for a new(er) IX or possibly an STi.

Eddie, I'll be down near your neck of the woods in early part of March, maybe I'll give ya a call.

 

[tsiboosted]

Wow it’s been a while. Good to hear you guys are having some luck. Spring is coming fast and it’s about time!

I sold my evo VIII and am shopping for a new(er) IX or possibly an STi.

Eddie, I'll be down near your neck of the woods in early part of March, maybe I'll give ya a call.

Sweet Andy. You know I am always down for whatever when you guys are in town. Just give me a ring and we can meet up again. When in March ???

 

[talonTSIDriver]

Sweet Andy. You know I am always down for whatever when you guys are in town. Just give me a ring and we can meet up again. When in March ???

I am gonna head down March 11-15th. There is a HPDE event that weekend at Road Atlanta. I've been thinking I need to break in the new car at a nice track event. we'll see...

 

[92AWDHX40]

Well gonna pull the head and have a rebuild, clean up the bay, fmic, new mbc, rotors, tires, sandblast and paint my rims, more fuel, and possibly dsmlink, wideband, windshield, weather stripping, and a few more maintenace items.

 

[UofACATS]

Car is a DD now, but it can't stay away from open track days so..

I'm currently installing a new clutch with an ACT lightened flywheel. Looking forward to that. I did some stealth weight reduction which I'm pretty happy about. I upgraded the dsmlink to V3. I'll pick up a Sparco Evo seat next week if things go like they should. Really looking forward to that. I'm doing some slight suspension tweaks and camber adjustments. Lastly, I'm keeping an eye out for cast-off r-comps. Because it's convenient, I'll also change all the drivetrain fluids. Non-track related, but I'm going to recirculate my Tial44 external dump back into the downpipe. It's too loud, i'm too old, and the turbo sounds too good.

 

[snowborder714]

I figured I'd update my status since I haven't in a while. Recently I've been just buying parts and planning for "Zé Weekend" (as coined by my brother). This coming weekend will be non-stop working on my car. Here are the plans.

Remove engine and transmission
Timing belt job with all new parts and new accessory belts
Remove broken studs/bolts in head and exhaust manifold
Replace lots of gaskets
Change all but 4 oil pan studs to bolts
Change valve cover studs to bolts

*Forgot earlier - clean out hood!!! I had my dipstick pop at the track last year and now every time I open the hood, I have a drop of oil where the latch hoop is. And I can't figure out where it's coming from.


Install
-BSE kit
-ACT 2600/Southbend disc/Fidanza flywheel
-2g starter plate (previous owner put 1g in )
-new starter
-blasted 1g intake manifold with Hondata heat barrier
-blasted/powdercoated parts
-blasted/rebuilt 1g throttle body





Still need to do
-fix Autometer water temp gauge (reading too high)
-SPC upper control arms
-relocate battery to trunk
-catch cans with -10 line from valve cover breather
-air filter heat shield and radiator/FMIC ducting
-Carbontrix hood vent

 

[D_Eclipse9916]

I figured I'd update my status since I haven't in a while. Recently I've been just buying parts and planning for "Zé Weekend" (as coined by my brother). This coming weekend will be non-stop working on my car. Here are the plans.

Remove engine and transmission
Timing belt job with all new parts and new accessory belts
Remove broken studs/bolts in head and exhaust manifold
Replace lots of gaskets
Change all but 4 oil pan studs to bolts
Change valve cover studs to bolts


Install
-BSE kit
-ACT 2600/Southbend disc/Fidanza flywheel
-2g starter plate (previous owner put 1g in )
-new starter
-blasted 1g intake manifold with Hondata heat barrier
-blasted/powdercoated parts
-blasted/rebuilt 1g throttle body





Still need to do
-fix Autometer water temp gauge (reading too high)
-SPC upper control arms
-relocate battery to trunk
-catch cans with -10 line from valve cover breather
-air filter heat shield and radiator/FMIC ducting
-Carbontrix hood vent

Have fun! Make sure you clearance those spc upper a arms before putting them in.

I have found a good way to seal the radiator to the radiator support is going to advance auto and they have this orange package with weatherstripping. Holds on great (once its applied you cant move it) and seals it nice and tight so no airflow can get through those holes.
For the FMIC, I used home depot foam insulation and just wedged it in between the fmic and the lower radiator support. Holds real nice and tight, is light, and stays there (ive used it for 2 years now and never secured it with any type of adhesive but the pressure keeps it easily there.). As for the distance between fmic and radiator on top, im still working on a lightweight solution that wont make any noise because of rattling metal and I didnt want anything permanent, I wanted it easily removeable for when I have to work on the car.

Edit: I have not used this on track yet, aside from some spirited parade laps, but around town and on the highway, the car bounces around the thermostat (180), you can see it go....176, 178, 180, 183, 186 and then the thermostat opens quickly and down to 172, 174, 176 and that process repeats. So it definitely has no problems shedding heat once the radiator is in use.

 

[snowborder714]

I haven't bought the SPC arms yet for the fact of all of the complaints about them recently. I'm waiting to see how Drew's hold up with his custom suspension (since I'd like to go that route).