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Plans and projects for the 10-11 offseason? (Related to Road Racing/AutoX/Rally)

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Finally soldered a fuse to the fuel pump hotwire deal and wired in the turbo timer I've had lying about for 3 years.

Going searching for the weld bb that killed my compressor wheel this week. I think it'll be in the intercooler, if it didn't pass through the whole engine...

>edit> Checked for BB's in the intercooler, must have passed through with the compressor wheel bits as the intercooler is empty.<edit>

Still waiting for the cams I ordered last week. Went with GSC S1's.

>edit> Cams shipped yesterday! <edit<
 
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Ooo, that doesn't sound good. Hopefully that BB didn't make it much further and ruin other stuff. Glad to hear no records of it when you took the head off though.


Got my gauge vent bezel mostly completed this weekend. Just need to apply a bit more glue, test fit again, mount gauges, drill holes for switches and coolant pressure LED, and mount those.

Tuned the car with Eric a bit this weekend. Got it running on E85 now, so I'm doing around 12:1 AFR and 19-20* of peak timing. Damn, I love that stuff :D

Also forgot to include that with the new transmission install I put in a scatter shield.


Next weekend is a race weekend, if you want to call it that. The Carlisle Performance & Style auto show has a track they use for autox and drifting sessions throughout the weekend. It's good because you run as many times as you want, so I get a good bit of seat time. Sadly, the track/course sucks, but seat time is seat time!
 
Just a quick update on my progress, it's been slow:

Finally tore into the wiring harness mess I had hanging out of the engine bay (with the help of Flash [Grant]). Pulled the harness off the car and removed the wires I no longer need from stuff I've ripped out of the car. Going to pull a few more wires off - I've decided to make it so my popups no longer pop up, so I can now remove the wiring and motors for that too now, I never drive the car at night - then it's time to move the harness to its new home under the dash, which will require some wire shortening and lengthening.

I also have a new chromoly front cross member that will replace the factory stamped steel piece, with north/south bars. I'm going to have a couple tabs welded to the cross member so that the radiator will mount there instead of the factory location. Then, when that's done, I plan to cut out the lower radiator support to make room for a custom FMIC mounting location and ducting. I figure the new cross member will be strong enough to keep the front from flexing. I'll have to paint the cross member once it's welded.

Once that's done, then I can start the custom I/C piping. And I also will be modifying the inlet/outlet of the radiator as well. Trying to see if I can get PWR or Mishimoto to build me a custom radiator so I don't have to chop this one up, but they're dragging their heels so I don't know.

I'm also waiting for FP to send my HTA DSM76 with cast O2 housing out to me so I can get my downpipe modified with the v-band clamp/flange. Before it all goes on, the housing and exhaust manifold will be sent out to Swaintech for coating. Then I'll have to get my exhaust all welded up with v-band connections.

I've also got to assemble the AN fuel feed line. I've changed the AFPR to a mini Fuelab unit that will mount directly to the rail. Looks much cleaner. Along with that I will need to get some new lines done for the oil catch can from calan, which will route from the valve cover I'm waiting on from Tirado - with -8 AN fittings.

And that's just in the engine bay, I'm sure I forgot some things too. I won't even talk about all the crap I need to get done with the suspension, the interior, and all the other parts I have laying around the garage. And that's just for the 1g. I also have a full exhaust (manifold through tip) and turbo I need to install on the 2g, just laying out there, but that means I'll have to extract the broken manifold studs (ughhh!). I also have a set of RM Racing swaybars for the 2g sitting out there. I just picked up a set of silver Evo X Enkeis (18x8.5) that will replace the curbed up black ones that are on the 2g now - got 'em for $450! I might try to repair the black ones for use on the 1g, or just sell them. Not sure yet.

Obviously, I have a shit load of work to do. Wish I had more time to do it! One thing at a time I guess.
 
My GSC S1's showed up today! :hellyeah: Won't be long now, that wreck will be back on the streets at least. Still needs a new battery and some other small parts. And a lot of work is left reassembling. Can't wait to test/feel the effects of the cams, 2g head, IM, more boost, functional knock sensor, etc.

Scrounging up the cash for a new helmet, track time and all the associated costs are another story...
 
Ooo, that doesn't sound good. Hopefully that BB didn't make it much further and ruin other stuff. Glad to hear no records of it when you took the head off though.

The offending foreign object seems to have passed with no further damage than the compressor wheel. Whew.
 
I don't have anything to add, I just wanted to say thanks for this thread. I've read it several times for inspiration and ideas for my build.
 
Let me know what you think of the S1's Jim. I'm considering getting a pair. I'd like some before/after data, if there aren't too many variables.

There are a couple big variables (2g head swap, RVR intake manifold) to be sure but I'll try to report back. I'm hoping for some big things from these changes. I don't have any sort of useable baseline data either so it'll all be butt-dyno impressions. Maybe I'll see a few more MPH before braking for turn 1?
 
Well my plans for this offseason will actually take me into the next offseason LOL. So much work to do, but im hoping to get the car onto the track next year for a shake down.

Right now I'm in the process of rewiring my engine bay (the old wiring harness was starting to look pretty rough). Im also removing all unnecessary things (heater core, blower etc.) The head is getting disassembled, tanked, decked etc etc (stock rebuild) Bottom end is gonna get shipped to Magnus for a rebuild with all the bells an whistles. Its also time to rebuild my tired old tranny (that things been a trooper all these years, time to show it some love)

Im also gonna pick up dsmlink and wire in my 2g maf. Originally i had planed to switch to speed density and run AEM EMS, but its not in the budget right now.

As far as the turbo goes im still not decided on that yet. I also really really REALLY want the new v3 1g intake from magnus, but again im not sure if i can fit it in the budget.

Other parts include:

ACT 2900 clutch (unsprung, my last sprung clutch had 4 of the 6 springs pop out and beat the hell out of my flywheel)
New friction surface for my Fidanza flywheel ( ^^^ see above)
Front and rear adjustable sway bars
Bushing set
Engine mounts
Stearing wheel
Suspension (still undecided on what to run here, any suggestions?)
IC core (need to buy and measure new radiator first to see what size core to buy)

The list goes on and on. Im in the process of trimming the fat off the list to come up with a reasonable build within my budget, but theres some items that im not willing to compromise on.
 
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Any video from the Drift, Scott?
Why yes! In the stock Civic beater no less. LOL The Talon is not finished yet. :sosad:

This particular event was at a new (very small) lot on a cold drizzly day. The video is a little dark as I didn't bother playing with the exposure.

Here's a video of my first run. I had the camera mounted on my helmet, which gives an interesting perspective. You'll note that I chuckle to myself mid-course once I realize that I did the first section twice. :coy:
<iframe width="640" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/-dTGomFiIV4?rel=0&amp;hd=1" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>


And here's my 2nd (and best) run, with data overlay and the camera mounted on the inside of the windshield:
<iframe width="640" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/gaqIP3RORG8?rel=0&amp;hd=1" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>​


I need to rethink how I had the external mic mounted. In the first video you can hear my arm keep hitting it, and in the second I think the wire flopping around was causing vibration noise.
 
Thank you, Scott!

I have no idea how you followed that course. I watched them a few times and was still baffled. And man, that has to be the smallest lot I've seen an autox done in, and one of the slowest courses.

Video looks good though. You have just made my decision a bit harder :p

I don't like that GoPro doesn't have an actual external mic yet, and that you have to open it up and do some soldering to get one. But I do like the underwater capability of it. So I have more to think about now.
 
I agree, that venue & course was nasty. Typically we have events on air fields, but it's a fair bit of travel. So when the opportunity to use this local lot came up, the club jumped at it. We have Sunday Shopping here, so local parking lots are scarce.

The Drift camera is also supposed to be waterproof. Another guy had one there and he mounted it on the roof despite the rain / drizzle. Here's one of his video's. Again, he never played with the exposure.

<iframe width="640" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/BsaAuQ6YQKs?rel=0&amp;hd=1" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>​
 
Was that with external mic as well?
No, that one was with the onboard mic.

Here's a video of what I was running this past weekend. Not too much better :p (This is not me, but a good POV video I found.)
Is that with the GoPro? Looks good!

There were three things that sold me on the Drift over other POV camera.

  1. External mic capability - Audio was a big issue with the camera I was using before.
  2. Remote Control - I used to have to climb out of the car during staging, hit the record button on the camera, then climb back in and get all strapped up. Now I just press a button on the remote.
  3. LCD screen - You really need a built-in display to aim the camera properly and review your recordings between runs.

But honestly, any POV camera will do. The GoPro seems to be the most popular one.

For comparison, here's some GoPro SD footage from the same event:

<iframe width="640" height="510" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/VrQFgXQtAOY?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>​
 
Yep, that was a GoPro. He was slapping the camera on most cars throughout the day. If you go check his videos, you'll find a bunch from that weekend, including the D1 drifter that was featured.

The external mic is one big thing that has me a bit worried about getting the GoPro. I sent the company an e-mail to see if they have any updates around this, as I saw it was supposed to be a released accessory about a year ago. There are people who have opened it up and made their own external mic, which I'm not a huge fan of, but it is an option, and not a hard one at that.

I do think the remote would be nice as well. But it's not a huge deal to start it and then clip footage later for me. A bit more work, but not hard.

The LCD is another thing that's got me thinking. I know GoPro offers an LCD accessory, but it's another $80.

The GoPro also has the option to shoot 3D, which while not really necessary, I think would be pretty freakin' cool :cool:


I hope to get into scuba diving soon (pending some doctor's appointments to check on my lung), so that's another thing I'm trying to take into consideration.

Why can't they just make one with all the features everyone wants? LOL
 
Ive found the GoPro HD model has significantly improved audio but still has problems with very high-speed. But its plug and play, the first two sound is almost perfect, but as you cna see, with road course work the wind sound can get loud if its outside. PLUS ITS rain-resistant/proof!

YouTube - &#x202a;Spec3HOR's Channel&#x202c;&rlm;

Also, you dont need the LCD. Once youve used the GOPro once you realize the LCD doesnt help at all. Point the GoPro in the general direction and its point of view is soooo good that it captures everything.
 
So I got out in the garage on Sunday for an hour or so and put my air chisel and grinder to work - cut out the lower radiator support, all of it. The air chisel is my new favorite tool!

I have a ton of space for the FMIC now. I've got some really cool ideas on mounting it too. I took my new tubular chromoly cross member (with front engine mount) and had some lower radiator support tabs welded on. Since it doesn't have the stock rubber bushings where it mounts to the frame I figured I could get away with cutting the stamped steel piece out and not lose much rigidity, if any all.

I'll post some pics of the progress pretty soon here.
 
Since it doesn't have the stock rubber bushings where it mounts to the frame I figured I could get away with cutting the stamped steel piece out and not lose much rigidity, if any at all.

If anything, it's now more rigid than stock, I'd guess.

What do you now use as a jacking point for the front/center of the car? I'd like to presume the tubular deal is stronger in that instance also but I had to ask, real world like.

I've just finished lowering (3/4"), re-angling and moving the splitter rearward (1") a bit. I should see a bit better approach angles and some additional air stolen from going under the car, pushed through the FMIC and radiator instead.
 
just bought a tsi awd, runs great , just wanna upgrade the supsension and exhaust this season, wifey probably wont let me put to much more into in this year. but should still be fun to drive a primary stock awd beast :)
 
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