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Plans and projects for the 10-11 offseason? (Related to Road Racing/AutoX/Rally)

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My new turbo parts will be here Tues.

Valvesprings showed up today, HG got here a few days ago. Head should be back on the car within a week. Then I have to finish rerouting the fuel line for the AFPR. I'm actually going to feed into the rail on the driver side, regulate on the pass. side. Then I can install the "EVOIII style" intake manifold.

Thinking GSC S2 cams now. Nearly etched in stone that decision is.

Need to remove the intercooler and look for the weld BB that killed my compressor wheel.:ohdamn:

Lots of work this spring...
 
so Farrr, New Trans, New Clutch Pedal assembly, New Clutch Master Cyl, ACT 2100, Modified stock Intake w\ Scoop, Added Oil Cooler, Tad bigger Injectors (hooking up wideband, then gonna look for something to tune it a bit, doesn't run very rich tho), Added Oil Cooler, added Custom Exhaust (already building\welding a new one, 2.75 Inch, Catless, Straight as can be, Coil On Plug set up, Mitsubishi Diamante Big Rotors + Dual Piston Calipers...... Track Event at Nashville Super Speed way May 7th so I'm gonna try and aim for getting some new Rotors, and pads, and get my Koni Yellows, and Sprint Springs....oh and also am making some headers for the talon as well....I don't really think the ones available really do anything other then looks, plus this way I can tune them more so for my Setup, and how the car will be driven.
 
I got the summer tires on yesterday. I put the new rotor and Hawk pads on then too. It handles so much better now. I have to roll the rear fenders now... BAD. Even with the 350lb/in springs and the Koni Yellows on full stiff, I keep rubbing in that rear lip. I keep getting high fives from all my "stance nation" buddies. I meant to get photos today, but I got stuck at work until after dark.

We had four people in my car tonight. Fender clearance fail.
 
really wanting to jump on some 280's w\ cam gears myself....
 
really wanting to jump on some 280's w\ cam gears myself....

Do a bunch of comparison/research on that, I looked at 280-ish stuff and 272 range cams and there is a lot of variation and inconsistency in the choices. Kind of fun to research, really.
 
Fender clearance will be dealt with tomorrow if I can get a friend to talk to his friend to get me the fender roller. I just need to roll the rears.

Done.

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I took it out today for a spirited drive with some friends. I didn't rub at all, so I think I finally got it all fixed up.

Bring on the autox. :cool:
 
Do a bunch of comparison/research on that, I looked at 280-ish stuff and 272 range cams and there is a lot of variation and inconsistency in the choices. Kind of fun to research, really.

do you mean inconstantenties like in brand as far as performance goes? I just want some that will be good for power 5-8 or 9k rpms.
 
do you mean inconstantenties like in brand as far as performance goes? I just want some that will be good for power 5-8 or 9k rpms.

No, more like inconsistent "labeling" if you will. For instance, look at the .050 duration numbers on for example, HKS's 272, BC's 272 and Kelford's 272. All are labeled as 272's making one think these will be similar performing camshafts but in reality, they are worlds apart. Not to mention, some mfgr's using .050" while others show 1mm (.040) duration specs.

The current cam market has some great choices, one just need's to look carefully at what each grinder is really offering.
 
hmmm.... any recommendationgs? like i said 8-9k redline, going to need to make power all the way too it but still have decent power in mid range rpms....

i know their are threads, but so much reading, I have trouble reading anything more then a few setences long at a time. always seem to skip the important stuff.

I've got a crazy build going on my Talon but do not want to go into details because I know I'll get shunned for ever haha.

It wont make much power
, but it'll be fun as hell! and tuned via Link V3 (or similar) w\ SD
 
hmmm.... any recommendationgs? like i said 8-9k redline, going to need to make power all the way too it but still have decent power in mid range rpms...

Without knowing your setup in detail I'd be of zero real help. Sounds like you are shooting for a bit more peak HP and RPM than most road course or autocross type setups, that seems like a lot of rev's for 20 minute track sessions.

Maybe PM some people who are running something akin to what you are looking at doing?

Should probably take this discussion to PM anyhoo.
 
-<s>Install transmission with Quaife LSD</s>
-Modify/shave a valve cover for use with catch cans
-Install DG suspension
-Install SPC upper control arms
-Figure out bump stops
-DC front/<s>rear strut bars</s>
-New Prothane suspension bushings
-Custom vent mount panel for 3 gauges
-VEI gauges (wbo2, boost, oil temp, oil pressure, coolant temp, m/t temp) and coolant pressure warning light
-Setrab 625 oil cooler with Evo 9 oil filter housing and a custom duct
-<s>Quick release bumper fasteners</s>

I got my other transmission with the Quaife installed a few weekends ago, so that's crossed off my list.

I plan to capture transmission temperature through one of my VEI gauges, so I had to figure out how to incorporate a sensor to do this. As far as I know, I have never seen a FWD user capture this data, so I'm interested to see how the temps are, and how they compare to an AWD transmission. I had seen Scott McIntyre had added one in (I think he drilled and tapped the case? correct me if I'm wrong Scott), so my brother and I started searching for a way to do so without modifying anything. After some searching, he found a very easy solution. It's an adapter for the drain plug that in the center accepts one of the VEI temp sensors.

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Kevin Kovatch just finished revising his aluminum valve cover baffles, so we might be able to start work again on the valve cover project. But...I also saw Drew has given the green light to start on a replica of his hood that will work with stock body parts. So my wish of having 2 -10 90* fittings off the top of the valve cover may be an option after all. My brother and I did some testing and with a stock 2g hood, you can only really fit one 90* fitting, and the one we tested with was about as low as you can go. And then when I switch to a 2.4 block, I'll have to add 6mm to that, which would put the fitting in my hood since right now I have 3-5mm of clearance.


We put together our suspension a few weekends ago, but don't plan on installing it until we get a set of scales and some DIY alignment tools, which we're in talks about now. The SPC arms will be going in at the same time, and once we get these mock mounted up, we need to measure for bump stop size. Here's a teaser picture for now though ;)

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Rear strut bar is on, and front won't be on until the battery is relocated.


New bushings have kind of taken a back seat to other stuff, as they aren't quite as important.


Eric finally figured out a great way to mount the gauges in the center vent bezel, while retaining the factory "mounting" of the bezel into the dash. I still have to modify my bezel the same as he did and then I'll be ready to go.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/app...398298-center-vent-cluster.html#post152563919


Almost all of the sensors are installed for the VEI gauges (need to install the boost sensor) and the coolant pressure light.


We got the Setrab installed on Eric's car without much trouble. It's a very tight fit though. I know my car is going to be more of a pain between having the FMIC piping in the way and not having ABS, which provided us with a 3rd mounting point for the cooler.


And the quick release bumper is done - and I love the functionality!! It is so helpful to be able to pop it off in a matter of a minute or two. It is fairly ugly though.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...mper-quick-release-removal.html#post152496426


We have also started playing with some heat reflective tape. This stuff is really cool, but the biggest PITA to work with. We have a small list of stuff to wrap/coat, and here's where we've started. If anyone has other ideas, please feel free to throw them up here. I'd like to use this stuff wisely, as it is expensive, but I know there's a bunch of areas that could benefit from it.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bol...dei-reflect-gold-wrapped-2.html#post152575884


And any other feedback, suggestions, or comments is appreciated!



Oh, and I started looking into cameras for capturing racing events. I've seen the 3 popular ones are the GoPro, the Contour, and the Drift. They all have their pros and cons, sadly, and aren't making this decision easy. I know Scott picked up a Drift - any other opinions/recommendations from personal use on a track?
 

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Between my friends and I, we shot our last autocross with up to 4 GoPro cameras on 1 car. One of my video-freak friends is editing all the footage right now as part of a promotional video for PSU's car club.

I can't really complain too much about the GoPro. It has some pretty bad fisheye at lower resolutions, but you won't ever really use those. Post production stuff can remove almost all the fisheye.
 
How was the noise from the GoPro's? This is one thing I've read with all the cameras is a hit or miss problem. I read that GoPro was potentially going to make an adapter for an external mic, but I don't think it's been done yet.

Another cool thing with the GoPro is the new(ish) 3D setup they have out :cool: I'd probably get two cameras anyway for more than one angle, but that would be a fun toy to play with with all the new 3D technology coming out. Plus, I really like that it comes with a waterproof housing as that saves me $150+ on buying one for my point and shoot for when I go snorkeling or snowboarding.


The other one I saw I liked was the Contour GPS, primarily for the GPS feature (doesn't work with waterproof housing though). But then I thought to myself, I could just get the Trackmaster app for my Android phone, which will do the same thing GPS wise, and some more fun stuff.
 
I had seen Scott McIntyre had added one in (I think he drilled and tapped the case? correct me if I'm wrong Scott)
Correct...

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I also saw Drew has given the green light to start on a replica of his hood that will work with stock body parts.
I so want that hood when it becomes available.

So my wish of having 2 -10 90* fittings off the top of the valve cover may be an option after all. My brother and I did some testing and with a stock 2g hood, you can only really fit one 90* fitting, and the one we tested with was about as low as you can go.
I have a valve cover getting welded with two -10 AN 90° fittings at this moment. I PM'ed a half-dozen 2G owners who had already done it and none had any clearance issues with the stock hood. :idontknow:

Oh, and I started looking into cameras for capturing racing events. I've seen the 3 popular ones are the GoPro, the Contour, and the Drift. They all have their pros and cons, sadly, and aren't making this decision easy. I know Scott picked up a Drift - any other opinions/recommendations from personal use on a track?
I have an event next weekend, so I should have some footage with the Drift HD170 soon; although it will be in the winter beater as the Talon isn't ready yet. :coy:
 

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I've very interested to see if your valve cover works out then. Please keep us updated on that! Are they being welded on in the typical place (passenger side, close to the edge, one above and one below the stock vent)?

I can't wait for that hood to be released either!!

Look forward to seeing the footage, no matter what car you're rocking.


Wes, thanks for the test video. The wind noise is fairly bad, depending on the location of the camera. Not any worse than I would have expected though. I really like the point of view down at the front wheel. That'd be great for watching how close you get to cones/apex's as well as suspension travel.
 
I don't think my friend put raw footage from the autox online yet. But there are a few shots where you can see me nearly miss the cone with the camera (it was a little too low) and then run over the base of the cone with my rear tire. No cone penalties though. :)

My friend did hit one cone dead on with the front of his car and about 4" to the left of the camera. Very interesting/funny shot.
 
I've very interested to see if your valve cover works out then. Please keep us updated on that! Are they being welded on in the typical place (passenger side, close to the edge, one above and one below the stock vent)?
Mine will be exactly like this one posted on Link: ECMTuning User Support Forums

I really like the point of view down at the front wheel. That'd be great for watching how close you get to cones/apex's as well as suspension travel.
Here's an old video I took with a Jazz HDV-178 mounted on the driver's door with a suction-cup mount:

<iframe width="560" height="349" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/6j-ys-Z0P8E?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>​

I got an external mic with my new Drift HD170, so wind noise should no longer be an issue. I purchased everything from pointofviewcameras.com (free shipping).
 
I wonder if those 90* fittings sit lower than ours? They look like they've been sunk down to do so.


Damn Scott, that course looks like it was a pain with how technical it was. What do the people who design the courses drive? I know the people around here drive small, nimble cars, so the courses are always technical, unlike if you go to Porsche evens (so I've heard) which are more wide open.

Very nice driving, though! What do you use for your data acquisition that's in the upper corner?
 
Damn Scott, that course looks like it was a pain with how technical it was. What do the people who design the courses drive? I know the people around here drive small, nimble cars, so the courses are always technical, unlike if you go to Porsche evens (so I've heard) which are more wide open.
Same here, mostly Miata drivers and the like. Actually, most autox cars here are of the small nimble variety. I've been known to walk the course with a measuring tape making sure that all the cone spacing actually exceeds the minimum requirements. LOL

However that course wasn't too slow... Watch the MPH readings.

What do you use for your data acquisition that's in the upper corner?
I'm using MaxQData. More specifically, their DIY HiDef offering.
 
Since we're kinda on the subject, here are the clearances I measured on Brian's car with a Mitsubishi valve cover. To clarify, these are clearances to the hood as his car does NOT have the factory heat shield on the underside of the hood.


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There are two numbers near the middle one because there is a rib on the underside of the hood there that could interfere with the fitting depending on where it is placed on the valve cover. The numbers represent the clearance on and off the rib.

Additional measurements that come into play:
Height of Mitsubishi valve cover near OEM hose barb - 1.757" to flat portion, 1.922" to top of raised portion
Height of Hyundai valve cover near OEM hose barb - 1.913" to flat portion, (does not have raised portion)
Height this fitting will stick above valve cover - 1.319"
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The plan is to have the fitting welded from the underside. All being said, I measured a clearance of 5mm from the top of that fitting to the hood with it located as in the picture. Any other placement would not have enough clearance.

So the combination of -10 fittings, a Hyundai valve cover, and the fitting we're using (to be able to weld from the bottom) does make the clearance awfully tight. I'm still open to suggestions since we haven't done any of the work yet.
 

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