Winter 07/08 Projects and Plans?

[D_Eclipse9916]

I can understand that however, when I had my front mount, the car overheated almost every 20 minutes I was on the track.

I cant remember which one Greg was using before he went to the "Y: mount. I am pretty sure he was running a side mount one until then.

I am not going to put one (FMIC) on until I know for sure it will not cause the car to overheat like that. It would not be worth it to me to overheat the engine and have to start replacing upgrades I just put on knowing full well what was going to happen when I did it you know? Want to take forward moving steps, not reverse steps. So if I have to go with the biggest side mount until we can afford and get the "Y" mount FMIC, so be it. I do not believe the car will be affected in a negative way if we go that route. May have to run less boost for a while, but the car overall will still be faster and better on the track than it is now. Which is the short and long term goals here.

There is a lot more at stake for me here than just ther car or the engine. I HAVE to be on the track and not down all the time. I have to go with something that will not only be better than what I have now, but will also be competetive and trust worthy. I cannot afford to go to the track every month and have DNF's or DNS's all the time. Riliability is #1 on the list right now. And if I do have to sacrifice some boost level or power right now, thats what I have to do. Like I said, it will be better, faster & stronger after these intial upgrades as well.

DNF & DNS = No Money

No Money & No Results = No Sponsors

I cannot have this formula.

Well ill tell you an FMIC is the way to go. I run a fmic, but I do not run an a/c condensor which is probably why your having problems with temps on track anyway! Also, external oil cooler should be one of the first things you do, I just put one on this winter and what a difference in temps, we will see how it goes at VIR in a week and half. Also, you talk about DNFs, you can keep it fairly "reliable". I drive my car to and from the track, and....its my only car which means it is my daily driver.

Just make sure maintenance is your number one priority.

 

[tsiboosted]

Well ill tell you an FMIC is the way to go. I run a fmic, but I do not run an a/c condensor which is probably why your having problems with temps on track anyway! Also, external oil cooler should be one of the first things you do, I just put one on this winter and what a difference in temps, we will see how it goes at VIR in a week and half. Also, you talk about DNFs, you can keep it fairly "reliable". I drive my car to and from the track, and....its my only car which means it is my daily driver.

Just make sure maintenance is your number one priority.

Maintenance is my A #1 priority. I am SUPER anal about that. You have no idea. We change all the fluids after every event, including between practice days and event days the following day. Always fresh Red Line Oil & Coolant flush and 2 new bottles of Water Wetter. We go through and make sure to put a wrench on every bolt we can and paint mark them as well.

With the FMIC & AC condensor, that may be the problem yes. We will have to wait and see till the summer and the 4 hour events to see what happens there in 110+ degree weather down here in Florida. That I am sure will be the ultimate test. Hopefully installing the FMIC and getting rid of the AC components will make a difference in the oveheating issues with thr FMIC. Just to clear it up, I do not have overheating issues now, I had them when we ran the FMIC earlier this year in testing sessions. Hopefully we can clear those issues up over the off-season.

You have bigger balls than me to race your daily driver. What would happen to your license and insurance if you put it in the wall or someone got into you or you hit someone? I have been hit about 5 times this year and tapped a few people in the bumpers and doors so far this season. Nothing major really, just nudging here and there. But would never do this with a daily driver. As much abuse as I put this car through, I dont know if I would drive it 4.5 hours to the track, race it for 2-3 days, then drive it back 4.5 hours. I just wouldnt put the car throught that I guess. I want it to love me and not hate me come race time . Thats why I take such good care of her.

We have 6 months for the build and testing to make sure everything is 1000% ready to go for next season. I am sure I will change the setup at least a dozen times before then. Just depends on what comes up and most of all funding. With what I need/want to do for next season, we are already hitting the $5,000 barrier.

 

[Ludachris]

Eddie, if you're going to road race you're going to want an FMIC. The SMIC will heat soak before too long and that means hotter intake temps. But if you're going to go with an FMIC you'll have to ditch the A/C and you'll absolutely need a hood vent. A thicker radiator wouldn't hurt either. The vent was the one thing that finally helped my high water temps last year, and I was already running a thicker PWR radiator and no A/C.

Other things you can try are using heat shields and/or wrapping all the exhaust components with heat wrap (and painting them with hi-temp manifold paint). Ducting will help too. The biggest issue is airflow through the radiator and allowing that hot air to exit from the engine bay through venting.

 

[tsiboosted]

Check your PM's Chris

 

[D_Eclipse9916]

Maintenance is my A #1 priority. I am SUPER anal about that. You have no idea. We change all the fluids after every event, including between practice days and event days the following day. Always fresh Red Line Oil & Coolant flush and 2 new bottles of Water Wetter. We go through and make sure to put a wrench on every bolt we can and paint mark them as well.

With the FMIC & AC condensor, that may be the problem yes. We will have to wait and see till the summer and the 4 hour events to see what happens there in 110+ degree weather down here in Florida. That I am sure will be the ultimate test. Hopefully installing the FMIC and getting rid of the AC components will make a difference in the oveheating issues with thr FMIC. Just to clear it up, I do not have overheating issues now, I had them when we ran the FMIC earlier this year in testing sessions. Hopefully we can clear those issues up over the off-season.

You have bigger balls than me to race your daily driver. What would happen to your license and insurance if you put it in the wall or someone got into you or you hit someone? I have been hit about 5 times this year and tapped a few people in the bumpers and doors so far this season. Nothing major really, just nudging here and there. But would never do this with a daily driver. As much abuse as I put this car through, I dont know if I would drive it 4.5 hours to the track, race it for 2-3 days, then drive it back 4.5 hours. I just wouldnt put the car throught that I guess. I want it to love me and not hate me come race time . Thats why I take such good care of her.

We have 6 months for the build and testing to make sure everything is 1000% ready to go for next season. I am sure I will change the setup at least a dozen times before then. Just depends on what comes up and most of all funding. With what I need/want to do for next season, we are already hitting the $5,000 barrier.

It does take balls or stupidity in my case, I just dont go 100% and try to cut off other people, yeah it means im slower, but it means I go home at the end of the day. The car will be off daily driver duty for the 09 season so that is definitely ### I want to do.

 

[tsiboosted]

"D" - Glad to hear you are putting that DSM on the track full time next year. Whole new ballgame when that happens. Can't wait to see what all you have planned for it man. Good Luck !!!

 

[TKW#13]

A good write-up on EVO brakes on a DSM would be awesome. I've read lots of stuff about it, but have never seen a very detailed write-up. Do you have dimensions and info on the brackets?



I test fit the brackets today and they line up, I just need to get some longer bolts this weekend. I will take pics of everything I do. Where should I post it after I am done? I will also be installing Megan Racing 32 way adjustables.

 

[neoviper]

I wish I had some before pics but heres how the body work is coming along for my project. While my front end was off, I pulled off my entire exhaust/turbo and ported everything. I replaced the manifold with a 2g that I ported as well. I also removed all the AC components. Tomorrow i'm putting in my new clutch, than it's time to SPRAY. the cars been off the road 3 YEARS because I couldn't get the car fixed. But I held on to it and this winter it's FINALLY getting done!!

 

[talonTSIDriver]

I test fit the brackets today and they line up, I just need to get some longer bolts this weekend. I will take pics of everything I do. Where should I post it after I am done? I will also be installing Megan Racing 32 way adjustables.

Post it in the "how to" section please.

 

[Jeff_Jeske]

Andy, do you plan to keep the water injection system? Chemical intercooling is far superior to a FMIC. Find some good smurf piss and stock up on it. Worked like a charm on my 98 and 03.

 

[AshTsi]

Well The project is actually going somewhere this winter!!! I got my Awd Tsi out of the impound lot where my father worked for $500 with a seized Transfer case and blown head gasket. Got it about 2 yrs ago and, and only got to drive it twice over the span of 2 days. I've been gathering parts slowly to make it my own. I'm going 2.3l with it, Got eagle h-beams, just got my wiesco pistons from SBR Joe (Thanks), DKS2's with SI Dual springs from FFWD, Just waiting until i can have my crank Butchered and then hopefully i will actually get to turn the key and drive it. I plan on braking it in with the 16g i have now and eventually upgrading to a 35r?!? (when i get the $$$) But for now i just cant wait to start it!

Best of luck to me!!!

 

[sniperelite]

Kind of a late reply...and just recently decided to do this so I guess it maybe categorized as a Spring build plans ....

6 bolt block honed and o-ringed
garrett gt35r (anyone selling one in decent condition)
dnp t3 header
pte 1000cc injectors
eagle rods
ross/wiseco pistons .020 over (sending to FFWD to get cryo treated)
FFWD hi-flow fuel system
JMF SMIM
taking head to machine shop to get fully machined
unsure of what company cams to go with but im going 272/272's possibly fp,dks,bc,etc...
probably bc springs/retainers
either fp or dv/dt front mount ic
cop kit
1g tb sent to FFWD for boring and reconditioning

That is the main things I can think of right now. If anyone has any additions or suggestions for things I should remove/add let me know. Also I will be in need of an engine stand if anyone is selling one around the Chicago area or is willing to ship one for a decent price let me know!

 

[talonTSIDriver]

Andy, do you plan to keep the water injection system? Chemical intercooling is far superior to a FMIC. Find some good smurf piss and stock up on it. Worked like a charm on my 98 and 03.

Hello Jeff.

Yes I will be keeping the water injection. However it will only be water for the most part and not 50/50 mix of water/alky. SCCA rules says ONLY water, nothing else. I may play around with 50/50 for the street or lapping days.

 

[D_Eclipse9916]

Hello Jeff.

Yes I will be keeping the water injection. However it will only be water for the most part and not 50/50 mix of water/alky. SCCA rules says ONLY water, nothing else. I may play around with 50/50 for the street or lapping days.

Isnt NASA the same way? I think im going to use water injection to help keep intake temps down and hopefully keep the engine cooler (not for more power but for reliability). I will be using just an M3 nozzle which isnt much. Anybody know if there would be any noticeable difference between doing deionized water and tap water? Also im hoping with the m3 nozzle the tank wont empty too fast and that the stock windshield reservoir will be enough for a 25 minute session on track. Of course I would have to fill it up between sessions. I will be testing this at VIR next weekend.

 

[tsiboosted]

Isnt NASA the same way? I think im going to use water injection to help keep intake temps down and hopefully keep the engine cooler (not for more power but for reliability). I will be using just an M3 nozzle which isnt much. Anybody know if there would be any noticeable difference between doing deionized water and tap water? Also im hoping with the m3 nozzle the tank wont empty too fast and that the stock windshield reservoir will be enough for a 25 minute session on track. Of course I would have to fill it up between sessions. I will be testing this at VIR next weekend.

I am not sure on injection in either sanctioning bodies when it comes to just regional/national/open events. I am pretty sure though in SCCA & NASA Pro Racing you can not use any type of injection. Be it water or meth. I know thats not the question or anything, just throwing that out there if anyone ever thought about going into one of the pro series.

 

[Eagle 5]

Has anyone considered running a v-mount setup with the intercooler on the bottom and the radiator on the top, and then having some ducting that routes all the air that goes through the radiator out a hood vent? Or maybe having some type of ducting on a regular setup that routes the air from the radiator out a hood duct? Such as the air comes through the radiator and has to go up past the exhaust manifold and out the hood vent. Seems like this could help expel heat from the engine bay quicker if not help to expel more heat. Only thing I could think of doing would be making a piece on either side of the radiator that goes from the bottom of the radiator up to the hood. Not sure how well it would work but seems like it could work very well. If I get a chance today I’ll make a quick drawing of what I mean.

 

[tsiboosted]

Has anyone considered running a v-mount setup with the intercooler on the bottom and the radiator on the top, and then having some ducting that routes all the air that goes through the radiator out a hood vent? Or maybe having some type of ducting on a regular setup that routes the air from the radiator out a hood duct? Such as the air comes through the radiator and has to go up past the exhaust manifold and out the hood vent. Seems like this could help expel heat from the engine bay quicker if not help to expel more heat. Only thing I could think of doing would be making a piece on either side of the radiator that goes from the bottom of the radiator up to the hood. Not sure how well it would work but seems like it could work very well. If I get a chance today I'll make a quick drawing of what I mean.

TJ - I have considerd doing that yes. A design I bleieve Greg Collier had a pretty good turn out with. Takes some work to get it just right. Tilting the intercooler back at that kind of angle you have to make some room in there for all that to fit in those close quarters like that. See if I can dig up an old picture of his setup to show you what I mean.

Ok, here are some pics of his setup. Sorry, but its all I can find right now.

p.s. - I got these pictures from an older thread started by Greg. Hope you didnt mind. Thanks Greg.

 

[talonTSIDriver]

I know for SCCA Pro Solo you are able to use ONLY water injection. I will have to double check on that however.

 

[Eagle 5]

I think I have seen more recent pictures of his vmount setup but yes my idea would be similar to that. Though I think most people have the intercooler on top and radiator on bottom. My idea was switch them and have the radiator on top and IC on the bottom. Not sure if that would affect how the coolant runs or not being higher up but then you could have ducting from the radiator to the hood vent, and with it being on top, would not be as hard to do.

Though the other idea was a normal setup and just having some ducting routing all the air that goes through the intercooler and radiator up and out the hood vent.

 

[tsiboosted]

I know for SCCA Pro Solo you are able to use ONLY water injection. I will have to double check on that however.

Sorry, I was being more pro road race series specific and not Solo stuff. My bad Andy

I think I have seen more recent pictures of his vmount setup but yes my idea would be similar to that. Though I think most people have the intercooler on top and radiator on bottom. My idea was switch them and have the radiator on top and IC on the bottom. Not sure if that would affect how the coolant runs or not being higher up but then you could have ducting from the radiator to the hood vent, and with it being on top, would not be as hard to do.

Though the other idea was a normal setup and just having some ducting routing all the air that goes through the intercooler and radiator up and out the hood vent.

Yeah, I have not seen anyone try with the intersooler on bottom yet. I believe the general consensus with that is it will block too much of the airflow to the radiator even if you did have ducting feeding up to it. But hey, anything is possible right? Give it a go and see what results you get. All these ideas started somewhere from someone.

 

[Eagle 5]

I attached a quick drawing of what I mean. Take a normal setup and add ducting on either side of the radiator and have the air somehow directed up and out the hood vent. Hopefully the picture describes what I mean. May help remove the heat coming off the exhasut manifold. Basically a flat piece of either side and maybe something on the bottom to help direct the air up and out. Just an idea though.

 

[Ludachris]

More pics of Greg's v-mount:

 

[talonTSIDriver]

I think with the all the A/C stuff removed, proper ducting, hood vent, and a stock radiator, one should have no problem with coolant temps. I run 20% coolant, rest water with water-wetter additive.

 

[tsiboosted]

I attached a quick drawing of what I mean. Take a normal setup and add ducting on either side of the radiator and have the air somehow directed up and out the hood vent. Hopefully the picture describes what I mean. May help remove the heat coming off the exhasut manifold. Basically a flat piece of either side and maybe something on the bottom to help direct the air up and out. Just an idea though.

No, I see what you are saying and I dont see why it would not work. you going to attempt this and let us know or was just this a brain storming idea? I would be curious to see the results if you or someone else tried it.

I think with the all the A/C stuff removed, proper ducting, hood vent, and a stock radiator, one should have no problem with coolant temps. I run 20% coolant, rest water with water-wetter additive.

I agree with you however, it would depend a lot on the conditions you are running it in as well I would think. Maybe not though. I know Greg had some overheating issues when he first attempted the "V" mount setup in the begining. Now there have been a lot of trial and errors done since then and I am sure someone has come up maybe with a better design. I was actually picking his (Greg's) brain about this earlier in the week.

Again, I think it will all depend on the proper ducting & venting as you said Andy and the load you are putting the car under. If you are running full out for 2 hours or so with a setup similar to these, I'm sure the car would react differently say to if you were just running sprint races that were only 15 - 20 - 30 minutes long you know?

Thanks for the extra picture of Greg's car Chris.

 

[talonTSIDriver]

This one track that i attending a lapping day is usually where i see higher coolant temps. The course is not as high speed (top speed is about 70mph) and lots of tight turns. I'll have to test my setup with the new car this year there and post some results. I'll even post a log (DSMlink) to show coolant temp changes, as well as intake temps. I'll post some pics in a few days after i get all my air ducting complete. Key thing, use any openings on the front bumper and direct the airflow to make it useful.