talonTSIDriver
15+ Year Contributor
- 1,228
- 16
- Feb 21, 2005
-
Stevens Point,
Wisconsin
Hey Andy, what welding setup are you using for the aluminum?
I took it over to a friends shop, he's got a Lincoln 175 square wave tig welder.
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Hey Andy, what welding setup are you using for the aluminum?
Your going to need everybit of those mods to try and beat me this year!

Just bought this 1996 318ti M3 conversion. In BMW parlance, it's a 332ti.
As I understand it, owning two BMWs --this and a 740i--makes me an official "BMW Dude."
It is not nearly as fast as the old Eclipse, but it has air conditioning and, I hope, will be more reliable.
The only problem with left foot braking to keep the boost up is that you may not have any brakes for your next turn. This is caused by no vacuum to the brake booster. Its kinda scary when this happens.
Sweet, will you be tracking this Bimmer??
Get a bang bang system...
Then have fun replacing turbo after every event. Haha.
Yes, indeed. My crew will be running a DSM and two 3000GTs, and I will go to every event with them to help wrench on their cars. First up is the F-Body event at Road America in April, followed by the NASA event in St Louis.
I'll park the BMW with the Mitsubishi crowd. With luck, it will be the only one that won't require wrenching after every session.
Originally Posted by talonTSIDriver
The only problem with left foot braking to keep the boost up is that you may not have any brakes for your next turn. This is caused by no vacuum to the brake booster. Its kinda scary when this happens..
You want to be careful, though, about too much boost. I have experienced wheelspin on all four tires at corner out a couple of times, and spun off into the weeds. The car is cornering at the absolute limit of tire traction, and you can upset this delicate balance by applying too much horsepower. In other words, the tire is using all the traction it has just to stay on the track, so if big boost suddenly hits, the tires have no grip left, and they break loose It feels like loose dirt or gravel when AWD wheelspin happens, so you tend to keep your foot in it, which works on gravel. Alas, it doesn't work when all four are spinning and, by the time (about 50 microseconds) you figure out that it's not gravel, you are off the road. At least I did, anyway.
Sweet, I was considering attending that sunday at RA. You be there both days?
Should be. Please pit with us. Except for me, we'll make up the Mitsu contingent. We usually drop the cars and trailers at the track on Friday and then do some serious drinking and bar hopping in Elkhart Lake. If you are a single guy, be aware that Elkhart Lake is a very target-rich environment.


Yeah, the event itself is only part of the fun. Highly recommended.
Hey Rich, I'm replacing pinkcar with blackpinkcar. I picked up a black '98 Legacy GT wagon/5 spd. (hence: blackpinkcar, get it?) I'm in the process of replacing the head gasket (s), and clutch and then she'll be on the road. I'm going to put in a Fidanza flywheel, so it's not such a transition to switch cars during the week.
Well I got the brackets back yesterday for the EVO Brembo rotors and calipers to work on on my car. When I do this project I will take pics and post them.
I have slowly started to gather parts for my off-season rebuild of the TSi. Got the new Forced Performance Manifold in on Friday. Already have the new Eagle Rods, ARP Main, Head & Rod Bolts, New Cometic Head Gasket. Ordering new Bronze Valve Guides today as well.
You should add a FMIC in that list.
. But i plan on cleaning my car up with a body kit and a new paint job, also i want to get a pipe bender so i can make my own full exhaust. Any sugestions?I actually had a FMIC on the car and it kept over heating after about 20 minutes on the track almost everytime. I want to try and do the "Y" mount, but that will cost a little more than I can spend right now. I may give it another try after the rebuild and see what happens with the FMIC.
My temps are different being down here in the south in the summer with 110+ temps and 99% humidity most of the time. Water temp stays ok (without FMIC) around 207 - 210 degrees (with Water Wetter) but my oil temps get up there near 250. Talked to several racers and that is not exceedingly high, but getting close. So an external oil cooler is for sure in the mix as well.
Its still a major work in progress, but it will come together slowly and surely the right way. I am in no hurry on this. If it takes 6 months, it takes 6 months. I have the 6 months till the season starts again for the GBRS. I would like to do some testing and what not before then; and I'm sure I will, just depends on the money and the time it takes to get the engine done. Maybe I will get back more than last year on the old tax returns and wont have to spend all of it on tires. We'll see though.
Well you said you have not removed any A/C stuff, so getting rid of that A/C condenser will open up more air flow. Also you should add some ducting to guide the airflow through the FMIC and then through the radiator. Do you have a hood vent? if not, GET ONE! With pushing more boost, your going to need something better than that stock Side mount I/C. That thing will heat soak within the first lap.
As for an oil cooler, yeah, you should get one for sure!!! Thats on my list to order yet.
I'll have to take a picture of how I used all the openings on my front bumper (97+ talon) for cooling and airflow.
Yeah, sounds good Andy. I have a lot of ducting laying around the shop as well as some inlet ducts for it as well. Just shoot me an E-Mail or PM with those pics when you get a minute if you would my friend. Thanks Andy.
p.s. - I would not be sticking with the factory side mount anyway. I was looking at the Supra side mount or Buscher one at least if I do not go back with the FMIC. But time will tell on this project anyway.
I had a Dejon Side mount on before, and with road-racing, any FMIC i think is better than the best Side Mount (Dejon SMIC is the biggest).