Tracking car list

[Sadistik_55]

What's up everyone. Trying to make my 2g into a track car. I know essentials are breaks and cooling. Anything else I need? And what should be done first? It's not a dedicated track car. It will be for those days when buddies get together and just drive. Point in right direction will greatly be appreciated.

 

[TunedUp]

This seems really vague to me. There is however a pretty good list in the resources sections for 2g upgrade paths. http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/tech-guide-2g-drag-setup.476838/ This should be a good start for you. Hope it helps. Also, it will help others to help you if you add a dsm profile for your car.

 

[Sadistik_55]

This car is more like a weekend car to have fun with and track. And occasionally drive in week. Not sure if that makes sense. And I just bough this car and not many pics yet. It's being worked on now to make sure everything in running condition before I start driving it as daily. So I've replaced the timing belt to a gates timing belt. (Shout out to extreme psi for the parts). The balance shaft has been deleted. Only has a greedy BOV and injen exhaust. That's it either tHan that is bone stock.

 

[TunedUp]

So do you have any HP goals or what are your exact goals for the car? There is a ton of information on this site. Maybe I can direct you to a good guide to help you along.

 

[Sadistik_55]

Main goal is to be able to have some good power when I track http://www.willowspringsraceway.com/page.php?id=30

This is the kind of tracking I'm talking about. So I know I need good suspension cooling and breaking. And that means a lot of little things. Not to sure what exactly I need.

 

[TunedUp]

I skimmed through this http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/2g-dsm-road-race-setup-guide.480195/ and it seems pretty in-depth. It seems more of what you are looking for. Read through it and if you still have some questions feel free to ask most of us on here can point you in the right direction. I don't have any experience with road racing so I can't speak from experience, but I am sure there are some that have knowledge to help you.

 

[Sadistik_55]

Thanks I really appreciate the help!!!

 

[gsxitement]

The most important things you're gonna need just starting out are pretty basic. Most importantly is a good set of tires. I recommend the Bridgestone Potenza RE71R. Don't worry about power until you get seat time. Last thing you need is going out on your first track day and having 500 HP. Try and grow the car with your experience. Just starting out, tires, brake pads, good brake fluid, and the most important part is proper safety gear. I'll get all the safety gear I can get. Get an extinguisher. Proper helmet. Make sure your seatbelt isn't frayed. All connections are good. Look over the rules of whatever sanctioning body you'll be driving with. Hope that helps.

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[Sadistik_55]

Well so far I've put in the gates timing and tensioner belt. All fluids have been done and just got a new mishimoto radiator. I bought some wider wheels from by buddy they the evo rims Enkei? And just need to buy new tires. And might be good to track now and get a feel for it. Helmet wise I have a shoei that I used when I rode bikes. Just need to upgrade breaks and cooling. I'll start tracking and build some more from there. At least there I got the basics.

 

[gsxitement]

Well so far I've put in the gates timing and tensioner belt. All fluids have been done and just got a new mishimoto radiator. I bought some wider wheels from by buddy they the evo rims Enkei? And just need to buy new tires. And might be good to track now and get a feel for it. Helmet wise I have a shoei that I used when I rode bikes. Just need to upgrade breaks and cooling. I'll start tracking and build some more from there. At least there I got the basics.

You'll have to check with whatever group you're running with about the helmet. Most sanctioning bodies require Snell 2010 or newer starting this coming season. Evo Enkeis are good. Get as much rubber under the car while keeping the tire square. I think those wheels take a 235 width tire. You want the sidewalls square to the wheel. Not stretched and not bulged. Which radiator did you get? I'd recommend the Mishimoto 3 row. I know you said you upgraded it already, so down the line when you start getting faster, you can step up to the bigger one.

 

[gsxitement]

You can also look into getting the little nostrils in the front bumper to add some cooling. I did one side, I still have to do the other

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[Sadistik_55]

You'll have to check with whatever group you're running with about the helmet. Most sanctioning bodies require Snell 2010 or newer starting this coming season. Evo Enkeis are good. Get as much rubber under the car while keeping the tire square. I think those wheels take a 235 width tire. You want the sidewalls square to the wheel. Not stretched and not bulged. Which radiator did you get? I'd recommend the Mishimoto 3 row. I know you said you upgraded it already, so down the line when you start getting faster, you can step up to the bigger one.

Well the helmet is snell. Shoei just brand of helmet. And not to sure on the type. When I bought it it already had radiator. A mishimoto. But the radiator was warped so I'm guessing it over heated.

You can also look into getting the little nostrils in the front bumper to add some cooling. I did one side, I still have to do the other

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Never knew what that was for haha just thought it was another things for looks

 

[gsxitement]

Yeah, they help. I have my oil cooler and PS cooler inbetween the rad and intercooler. I have a lot of ducting going together over the off season. When I was at NJMP in August, Ambient temps were over 95°, and the car never got over 210-215°. Just double check with the group you're running with about the helmet. It would suck to get to the track after all the money and getting there, only to be turned away for an illegal helmet.

 

[Sadistik_55]

For sure I'll be doing checking that out. The place I'm going to is in willow springs. Are making the nostrils just cutting out or do I have to get a special bumper and stuff?

 

[gsxitement]

For sure I'll be doing checking that out. The place I'm going to is in willow springs. Are making the nostrils just cutting out or do I have to get a special bumper and stuff?

Nope. Just your regular bumper. Make a template, tape it on, make your cuts. They're made for 350Zs, so the fitment isn't totally like a glove. Gonna have to use long nuts and bolts or long rivets. I have counter sunk screws holding mine in.

 

[Sadistik_55]

Ok awesome. Sounds good to me. I'll be looking into that first

 

[2gmitsueclipse]

If your looking to try doing track days or HPDE, I would look to go with a group/organization that offers a free instructor. They are generally experienced drivers that are familiar with the course and can show you the lines. Many of them also have loaner helmets available should yours not meet the SNELL 2010 requirement. Below is some helpful documentation:

NASA guide to HPDE:

• https://www.nasaproracing.com/hpde/preparing.html

Sample tech inspection sheet: (This is what techs will inspect on the morning of the event)

• https://nasa-assets.s3.amazonaws.com/document/document/277/form_hpde_tech.pdf

Maintenance:

• Closely inspect car for any leaks/signs of leaks. (even valve cover)

• Perform a BLT before the event so you will have a safe operating car on course. ( Pay special attention to seals at TB and injector seals)

• Inspect electrical connectors and ensure battery is secured down (Does not move).

• Fresh oil change before the event. Overfill slightly while at the event to reduce the chances of oil starvation.

• Ensure all belts are in good shape and tensioned properly.

• If possible, have exhaust shielding installed to keep under-hood temps in-check.

• Inspect fuel lines for any signs of leaks. If you do not know when the filter was last changed, change it.

• If you have not changed the coolant in a while, fresh coolant would perform better. Inspect hoses for signs of possible failure from rot/age.

• pressure test the system to ensure it is functioning properly.

Tires:

• Since you will shop for new tires, you can go safely to a 245 tire. At a stock ride height, you might need lightly roll the rear fenders.

• Stick with a street tire instead of a R-compound. You need to get seat time with tires that will provide more feedback like a street tire will. They will also be easier on other systems of the car such a brakes and drive-train. Do some research on this forum as well as other before you make your choice. By other forums, I refer to Miata and BMW forums since they have a larger community that have road course experience.

• Have an alignment done to ensure you have no surprises at higher speeds.

• Invest in a quality tire gauge.

Drive-train:

• Fresh fluid in EVERYTHING!

• Again, inspect for leaks.

• I would inspect the clutch pedal, and adjust as needed. A flush wouldn't hurt.

• Ensure wheel bearings are in good shape. There should be zero play.

Suspension/Steering:

• Check power steering fluid level. It wouldn't hurt to bleed if if you have never done this.

• Inspect all ball joints and inner/outer tie rods for ANY play.

• Inspect struts/shocks for signs of leakage.

• Check the torque of all suspension/steering components to ensure nothing loose.

Brakes:

• Fresh brake fluid is a must. ATE and Motul are popular choices for performance brake fluid. ( Use regular brake fluid for the clutch) Most organizations would like to know that the brake fluid is less than 30 days old.

• The stock system sucks. You can make it better to some extent by upgrading to the Outlander setup in the front. If you want a full upgrade, the Evo Brembo is a good choice due to the variety of pad choices.

• If still using the the stock calipers (stock or Outlander setup), you will want fresh lubricant on the slide pins.

• Pad choice is very important. My first track day, I fried a new set of Hawk HPS pads. My next track day, I went to full track pads with dedicated rotors for the pads. This was a HUGE improvement. I chose to go to Carbotech XP-10 pads and won't look back. It will take some getting used to though. DO NOT cheap out here.

• SS lines are good to have for more consistent pedal pressure.

• Believe it or not, the Porsche front duct air guides fit well on a 2g to direct air to the rotors.
  • http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/porsche-gt3-brake-ducts-installed-on-2g.490249/

Safety:

• Mitsubishi has crappy seat belts that often do not retract properly, but the do lock when excessive forward motion is sensed.

• Invest in a CG-Lock seat-belt stabilizer for at least your seat. It will help keep you in the driver's seat so you can focus on driving instead of bracing your self.

• Most organizations require long-sleeved shirts and pants while on course.

• Take lots of water.

• Dress for the weather.

I will add more as I think of it......

I know this seems like a lot of info, but I would rather be focused on driving and having fun than trying to repair the car at the course.

 

[ceedawg]

Good stuff Nate. I am gonna take your advice on the dedicated brake rotors for sure! Thanks for the car inspection link as well.

 

[2gmitsueclipse]

Good stuff Nate. I am gonna take your advice on the dedicated brake rotors for sure! Thanks for the car inspection link as well.

I wouldn't spend money on fancy rotors. Since even with the Outlander setup, you still want as much contact surface as possible for the pads, so blanks are a good choice. I go 8-9 full track days out of Centric blanks before I notices heat cracks.

The main purpose for dedicated rotors is for bedding purposes. Using tracks pads, the bedding process is very important to get the most out of them.

 

[ceedawg]

I have a set of sfoptech 2 piece rotors but I have to figure out would work with my stoptech calipers.other than these. Of.course a single solid one piece rotor would be.cheaper.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

If your just starting out in tracking then use solid rotors first, i believe if your serious enough then 2 piece rotors are a must for weight and heat transfer and you also aid your wheel bearings from going bad on you from the heat flowing down to the hub area, true 2 piece also offer semifloating and full floating! So expansion is done in the rotor and not the hub area,

I run 2 piece up front and just for rotors its such a nice upgrade in its self.there comes a point with 1 piece that you feel the heat get to them and they wobble or judder a bit but ive never had that once with 2 piece rotors. Pad choice is suoer important aswell!!! If not the most important over rotors but yiu have to make sure they are compatale and bekieve it ir not some combos dont like working with each other very well!

 

[ceedawg]

Good stuff. I already have a set of 2 piece Stoptechs but I am thinking I will perhaps have to buy a spare set of Stoptech 2 piece rotors for either the street or the track. I think I will stick with the 2 piece settup and with the spare just replace the disc on the hat.

I am going to look into the XP pads sound good. Perhaps expensive but going to check them out. Or see what Stoptech recommends.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Good stuff. I already have a set of 2 piece Stoptechs but I am thinking I will perhaps have to buy a spare set of Stoptech 2 piece rotors for either the street or the track. I think I will stick with the 2 piece settup and with the spare just replace the disc on the hat.

I am going to look into the XP pads sound good. Perhaps expensive but going to check them out. Or see what Stoptech recommends.

I run xp10 and xp8 pads by carbotech and they are great! The thing with carbotechs pads are they cannot be used with anyother pad brand apart from their own! So if you used daily pads then you would need new rotor rings for them daily pads, then race pads for race rotor rings,

They really dont wear that fast to worry about needed 2 sets of rotors but if your wanted different pads then yes its a must

 

[2gmitsueclipse]

Good stuff. I already have a set of 2 piece Stoptechs but I am thinking I will perhaps have to buy a spare set of Stoptech 2 piece rotors for either the street or the track. I think I will stick with the 2 piece settup and with the spare just replace the disc on the hat.

I am going to look into the XP pads sound good. Perhaps expensive but going to check them out. Or see what Stoptech recommends.

The expensive is worth every penny! The stopping power of XP-10s are incredible. As @ec17pse mentioned, solid rotors do transfer heat to the hub area. I just make sure I inspect the wheel bearings regularly. I always have an extra set of Timken wheel bearings on hand and usually just change them out each season. The rears do not wear nearly as fast as the front.

 

[ceedawg]

I run xp10 and xp8 pads by carbotech and they are great! The thing with carbotechs pads are they cannot be used with anyother pad brand apart from their own! So if you used daily pads then you would need new rotor rings for them daily pads, then race pads for race rotor rings,

They really dont wear that fast to worry about needed 2 sets of rotors but if your wanted different pads then yes its a must

Yes my feeling was that the XPs are not good for daily driving just for the track. So it would be a set of XPs for track duty along with separate 2 piece rotors for track duty as well.