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420A List of issues

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mechsbox

Probationary Member
10
1
May 17, 2022
Spokane, Washington
I just bought my son a 96 eagle talon esi, auto, non-turbo 420a. Only has 57k on it. The dealer assured me the car drives perfect and has no leaks and no surprises but when I got the car, it wasn't the case. The car dies at low speeds or when at idle, there was oil in the spark plug wells, so I changed the valve cover gasket and did new spark plugs and wires. Then noticed there was an oil leak underneath and coolant leaking. Had a mechanic check it out and it needed a new oil pressure sensor. That is done. Now it needs a new water pump and timing belt. Its leaking coolant bad. I also noticed there was a ton of water in the trunk I had to drain. Who knows how long its been there. Anyone know why that would be? Then the wiper fluid sensor was unplugged because the low fluid light is on and won't go off. Also the rack and pinion and tie rod need replaced. Crazy this car has so many issues at 57k miles. Its like the previous owner never maintained it. I'm taking it one step at a time and just started the timing belt job and I'm stuck. I can't get the timing cover off. There is literally not enough room to get the bolts off, no matter how high or low you raise the engine. Also, I can't figure out how to get the generator belt off. I took the top bolt off and its still tight. Do you take the bottom bolt off or is there another hidden one on the side? Also, when I got the car, the driver door lock cylinder was missing. I had to tear the door apart and saw it fell down jn the door. Not sure what happened there. Also, the sunroof doesn't work. The biggest issue is just getting this timing cover off. I'm so deep in this car, I don't want to give up but I'm stuck. Also, if anyone knows what these other issues might be, any help would be appreciated. I'm trying to get this car right for my son. I just keep finding more problems with the car. I thought these cars were supposed to be easy to work on. I even bought the official 96 Talon service manual from chrysler that the dealers use and it doesn't show all the steps. You get lost. Not very helpful. Not many mechanics know how to work on these cars.

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With oil in the spark plug wells, it's also a good idea to replace the oil cap itself.

Water in the trunk is somewhat common. It can come from the rear wiper hole (if deleted), spoiler mount holes, or a deteriorated hatch seal. On turbo cars it can also be a result of a leaking windshield sprayer bottle, but I don't know where that bottle is on N/A cars.

Needing the entire steering rack replaced would be really odd, unless it has been leaking fluid, but then it just needs a rebuild. They're pretty robust. Some people even empty the fluid and run them dry without issues. Tie rods are also a surprise. Unless the boot is leaking, they pretty much last forever. The tie rod end is a consumable, though.

I can't speak to the engine mechanicals as I'm not familiar but the lock thing isn't too uncommon. The outer door handles in these cars are complete crap. Yours have already been replaced once. Hopefully the plastic mount for the lock isn't broken and it's just that the clip fell out.

The sunroof is controlled by a series of switches that tell the controller where the glass is. Those could be problematic but it is more commonly a fuse/wire or bad alignment/lubrication that keeps the glass from fully depressing the switches. Mine only half works but I've been to busy with other stuff to tear into it, but I've done sunroof stuff on previous Eclipses and on other cars.
 
That is quite the list considering the mileage and it being dealer sold, but prioritize and knock them out one at a time.

First off, the passenger side motor mount has to be removed to access the timing components. If that’s the part you’re having trouble with, try removing the two bolts that hold the front roll stopper (below the front air box, in front of the transmission) to the lower crossmember. This will allow you to raise the engine just enough to remove the motor mount bolts. You can also free up the rear roll stopper for even more maneuverability, although I’ve always found the front one to be enough. Another thing to consider is taking the passenger mount out in two pieces. The donut will separate from the vertical plate that sandwiches up against the outer timing cover.

Second, the door lock cylinder has a “C” clip that locks it into the handle housing. That clip is gone, loose, or the housing is broken which allowed it to slide out.

The water in the spare wheel well can be from a number of sources. Bad hatch seal, not enough seam sealer where the taillights meet the rear deck, clogged drain holes in the upper deck etc…

I’ve only touched on what I have experience with. The search is your best bet. All of these issues have been covered by someone on here, so you should get some assistance by going that route. Good luck!
 
I just bought my son a 96 eagle talon esi, auto, non-turbo 420a. Only has 57k on it. The dealer assured me the car drives perfect and has no leaks and no surprises but when I got the car, it wasn't the case. The car dies at low speeds or when at idle, there was oil in the spark plug wells, so I changed the valve cover gasket and did new spark plugs and wires. Then noticed there was an oil leak underneath and coolant leaking. Had a mechanic check it out and it needed a new oil pressure sensor. That is done. Now it needs a new water pump and timing belt. Its leaking coolant bad. I also noticed there was a ton of water in the trunk I had to drain. Who knows how long its been there. Anyone know why that would be? Then the wiper fluid sensor was unplugged because the low fluid light is on and won't go off. Also the rack and pinion and tie rod need replaced. Crazy this car has so many issues at 57k miles. Its like the previous owner never maintained it. I'm taking it one step at a time and just started the timing belt job and I'm stuck. I can't get the timing cover off. There is literally not enough room to get the bolts off, no matter how high or low you raise the engine. Also, I can't figure out how to get the generator belt off. I took the top bolt off and its still tight. Do you take the bottom bolt off or is there another hidden one on the side? Also, when I got the car, the driver door lock cylinder was missing. I had to tear the door apart and saw it fell down jn the door. Not sure what happened there. Also, the sunroof doesn't work. The biggest issue is just getting this timing cover off. I'm so deep in this car, I don't want to give up but I'm stuck. Also, if anyone knows what these other issues might be, any help would be appreciated. I'm trying to get this car right for my son. I just keep finding more problems with the car. I thought these cars were supposed to be easy to work on. I even bought the official 96 Talon service manual from chrysler that the dealers use and it doesn't show all the steps. You get lost. Not very helpful. Not many mechanics know how to work on these cars.

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Try the resources page also.

 
With oil in the spark plug wells, it's also a good idea to replace the oil cap itself.

Water in the trunk is somewhat common. It can come from the rear wiper hole (if deleted), spoiler mount holes, or a deteriorated hatch seal. On turbo cars it can also be a result of a leaking windshield sprayer bottle, but I don't know where that bottle is on N/A cars.

Needing the entire steering rack replaced would be really odd, unless it has been leaking fluid, but then it just needs a rebuild. They're pretty robust. Some people even empty the fluid and run them dry without issues. Tie rods are also a surprise. Unless the boot is leaking, they pretty much last forever. The tie rod end is a consumable, though.

I can't speak to the engine mechanicals as I'm not familiar but the lock thing isn't too uncommon. The outer door handles in these cars are complete crap. Yours have already been replaced once. Hopefully the plastic mount for the lock isn't broken and it's just that the clip fell out.

The sunroof is controlled by a series of switches that tell the controller where the glass is. Those could be problematic but it is more commonly a fuse/wire or bad alignment/lubrication that keeps the glass from fully depressing the switches. Mine only half works but I've been to busy with other stuff to tear into it, but I've done sunroof stuff on previous Eclipses and on other cars.
Thanks for the help. With the sunroof, all it does is vent and won't open. It then takes a couple presses for it to go back down. There is a plastic piece with a bolt you can turn for probably if it wont close and you can manually turn it shut but I tried and nothing happened. Probably because it wasn't actually open.
 
Welcome to DSM ownership. I had a kind of a similar experience with lots of “surprises” once I bought my car. Not from a dealer, though, I actually trust them less. Going into a dealership is like bringing a plastic fork to a gun fight.
My car also has issues that would not be expected from its low-ish milage. Then I found out how easy it is to pull the whole instrument panel out, odometer and all. (At least for 1g)
This motivated me to recently get the carfax on my car, but because the first owner had it for at least 10 years, and then it sold from Texas to Florida, there were no miles shown after the original new-car dealer (284 mi). So interesting, but not really informative.
Anyway, having one of these cars would be way harder to deal with were it not for this site. If you like the car and are willing to commit to the journey, the reward is very satisfying.
 
What you are running into I found is pretty typical for a car of this age. If you love the car it is worth it. The average car owner would see it as overwhelming and toss it in the junk yard or trade it in but it is mostly minor stuff that if you are mechanically minded can easily address. If the car wasn't messed with by someone who didn't know what they were doing the important mechanical and electrical stuff is reliable in my experience and once you get it in order it's a fun car to own. It took me awhile even with mine being in pretty good shape when I got it to nail down all the little things. Like other posters have said, make a list and nail them down one at a tim. If your goal is to get on the road as soon as possible, I'd focus on the major mechanical issues you mentioned and then move onto the idle issues and then move onto the more cosmetic things like leaking trunk and sun roof. I'd get a Haynes manual as well to help you with the factory one. The factory one assumes you are familiar with doing the procedures and focuses mainly on showing you the aspects of the repair and diagnosis that are unique to the car. Before I did any major diagnosing with the idle, I'd check all the vacuum hoses for leaks. (of course check for codes for a starting point in diagnosis if there are any) In my case that was causing my idle and low rpm issues and it is a simple and cheap solution if it turns out to be the problem. After awhile you can tell your progress by how many Rock Auto magnets you've accumulated on your tool chest! Good luck on your journey!
 
I've brought back half a dozen mid-90's Mitsubishis but only started with Eclipses last September. The first one generated a 'list' of about 75 problems although I was able to drive it home. The one I've just started -- bought originally as a parts car and flatbedded here -- is probably over 100; I haven't really started a list yet, just working on the most obvious "It won't run/can't be driven like that" issues.

The sedans are easier -- 50 issues if you can drive them home, although one that I got with about 60k miles had only half a dozen. Many Eclipses, though, were pushed pretty hard and many did not get good maintenance. But -- you're not likely to have much wear-out stuff to deal with, like ball joints. Most of us have cars at 150k miles and we're replacing that stuff for the second time.

It sounds like you're starting a middle-of-the-Mitsubishi-road experience. Others have made the key points -- it will take time, prioritize, but have confidence that you can do it all if you want to. My guess would be six months to a year of extensive part-time effort. If your son can join the project that'll be a lifelong gift as fixing your own car is a hobby that gives you near-free transportation.

Eclipses aren't the easiest cars to work on. There's more stuff in a smaller space and the manual is not good on the basic 'how to ...' items. (Witness my question today about how to disconnect the fuel pump and of course yours about the timing cover.) But everything is pretty fix-able and most essential parts are still out there.

Couple of specific items: You're looking for a stiff wire U clip to hold that door lock cylinder in the lock body. Look/feel around down in the door. Also look at the lock body: If the rear of the cylinder cavity is broken off (someone tried to break into the car by punching out the cylinder ...), then you need to order a whole new handle assembly which will come with a clip to hold your lock cylinder in place.

Wiper fluid sensor -- look for a float in the bottom of the bottle; it sometimes sticks down there. Sometimes rapping on the side of the bottle (after fill) will free it, sometimes you have to take it out and wash the inside to get it working.

Why does the rack and pinion need replacing? Seals may go (leaks ...) but the only one I've had to replace was the result of the car being hit in front and a tooth or two bent in there so there was excessive play in the steering. The inner tie rod ends eventually wear out but they're replaceable.

There should be seals at the top of the spark plug wells. Oil down in the wells means the sea;s are missing or failed and oil flying around from the cams gets down in there. I don't know the 420a engine so I can't be more specific. Be very gentle torquing that valve cover -- they crack easily.

Start your list, prioritize, and ask for help when you need it. Welcome aboard!
 
My car was in similar shape as well and I tackled one problem at a time.. slowly over time I transformed it into what I consider very good condition for a car of this age. I also purchased my vehicle for my son for college and discovered it was way to far gone to allow him to drive it to college. So I purchased another used vehicle for him while i worked on the 420A Talon as a pet project.

There are plenty of videos online as well that can help if you have the patience to search and many of these issues are discussed on this forum. The Door handle itself is a pain and I have found the lock cylinder inside the door at junkyards in some cases after the inner door panel was removed . The door handle is one of the most annoying jobs I have found to accomplish on this car but it is possible with patience and I found a step by step guide somewhere online with pictures or it would have been impossible.

The EGR system was causing annoying problems for me so I removed it and never looked back. For the alternator, there is a nut that has to be loosened from the top, and a nut on the bottom that has to be loosened, then the adjustment screw can be turned from the bottom of the vehicle but is in the blind towards the top (if that makes sense).. to loosen or tighten the alternator for belt replacement. This can be a pain I've had to replace my alternator twice. I also had spark plug well leaks and I also changed the valve cover gasket and the spark plug well seals. With the timing belt on the 420A, yes remove the passenger side mount and also the front mount bolt (or roll stopper bolt) so you can roll the engine and move it up and down as necessary. It is difficult but is not impossible.. I had to change the timing belt myself as well with the engine in the car and I never want to have to do it again. Change the water pump and all idler pulleys as well as the tensioner when you change the belt.

I hope you stick with it.. it will take time but you will become an expert after fixing all these problems but it won't happen over night!
 
The water in the trunk is most likely a bad hatch seal. The washer fluid reservoir is underneath the spare tire on these cars and I can see you don't have it. Unfortunately Mitsu discontinued the seal, but sometimes they still pop up on Ebay. Be ready to spend a couple hundreds bucks though.

But first, check your 2 drain tubes and make sure they're not clogged. Water will pool up and leak in even if the seal isn't done yet if the tubes are clogged up. Use mild cleaner and blow compressed air through to unclog them.
 
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