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Punishment racing fmic for 2g

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i managed to hang my core i had to cut the rice bumper up though. car has a bomex kit from like 8 years ago im just to cheap to buy new oem bumpers so i rill with what i got. I just got to fit the fogs and plum it. Then I figured if im gonna do a turbo altenator intercooler radiator and found a oil leak. Just pull the motor and go through it make it fresh. So now im gonna be on a bigger delay.

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well before I pulled the motor and trans I did a quick mock up. No it will not just bolt right on a auto trans equipped dsm. What I can do is remove the bolt the holds the dip stick for the trans turn it to the side and throw a tack weld to hold it in place. The pipe that comes around the rad support was to long. Nothing a saws all cant handle. I have the motor out now so when Im doing the big re install I will take photos of how I make it work.
 
What do you mean sawzall and tac welding the auto trans stick ?
I installed this very same kit on my friend's gst spyder, it too is automatic, and i NEVER had to do any sawing of the radiator supporet or frame of any kind and i didn't have to tac weld the auto stick, i just slightly bent it out the way and it worked just fine.
 
I dont need to saw the support of the frame. I need to take about 2 inches off the pipe that comes around the support. I probally could bend the dip stick tube out the way but I would think that would make the stick a little difficult to use and maybe get stuck. I can just rotate it out the way and spot it in place and retain the origional shape. My car is also awd so things may be a little different than a fwd set up I dont know for sure.
 
Nope the clearance on that area where the intercooler pipe goes is the same on auto fwd and awd.
 
well before I pulled the motor and trans I did a quick mock up. No it will not just bolt right on a auto trans equipped dsm. What I can do is remove the bolt the holds the dip stick for the trans turn it to the side and throw a tack weld to hold it in place. The pipe that comes around the rad support was to long. Nothing a saws all cant handle. I have the motor out now so when Im doing the big re install I will take photos of how I make it work.

thank you, about the same i had to do, but i just reused my RRE UICP kit as it was to much of a pain. would be nice to have a new short route pipe, as they say on there site "CARS WITH AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSIONS WILL REQUIRE MINOR MODIFICATION TO THE PIPING, WE ARE WORKING ON A NEW DESIGN FOR AUTO'S
"

would be nice to have one..
 
I see some people don't read my posts. Well once more here are pics of the fmic i installed on my friend's automatic gst spyder.
IT IS possible with a little creativity and patience.

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The pipe that comes around the rad support on the right side is longer on mine. Mine goes back to the splash shield. all the pipes on the left side from turbo to the core are fine.
 
i ran a t25 on with my p-r kit for a few weeks, and the ets v pipe works perfectly. also, im sure if you ask nicely, you can purchase just the piping. i just recently ordered some replacement pipes for mine and it wasnt a problem at all.
 
I will not be keeping the t25 very long and I will be making my own pipes. The turbo will be the last thing I do. I want to take care of fuel and everything eals first.
 
I am thinking about picking up a PR kit for my 1g. Anyone know how the PR kit fits on a 1Gb eclipse? Im looking at the posts and looks like its a really good FMIC for the price and holds up to pretty good boost and HP. Anyone have any cooling problems? Im thinking about grabbing the 3.5" off PR soon and was wondering if it will fit with both the stock fans on my 1G with the J-pipe. Nice installs by the way they look really clean and the kit looks awesome. Can't wait to see it on my car :hellyeah:
 
I've read through this entire article and noticed that no one has directly answered the question about the GM MAF fitment. In Post #310 and #311, it was asked if you could mount the 3" GM MAF with the PR FMIC kit?... the answer is YES!

I started off by using PR's TB Elbow and realized that it pushed the MAF too far down, towards the BOV and didn't give it enough room... so I decided to swtich that out with my stock 2G TB elbow... now I was getting somewhere! I bought some reducer couplers (3" to 2.5") and regular Worm Clamps. I then had to eliminate the 45* PR coupler from UICP to TB Elbow and that's where the GM MAF will go. I was told it had to be after the BOV (obviously) and befor the TB... for the accurate metering of incoming air into the motor. I placed both reducer couplers onto the GM MAF and lightly tightened the worm clamps. Then squeezed the GM MAF into location on the UICP and TB Elbow, by wiggling it around and sort of getting the couplers onto the pipes. The fit isn't perfect as it has to be bent like a 45* elbow, but you can get enough of the couplers on each side and tighten them down to stay.

I had a couple problems with the coupler coming off the TB Elbow and leaking, but I remained determined to make it work, as I don't have a cutting tool or welder fix the length issues. I would just put the coupler back on and tighten it a little more than I did last time. Watching everyone break these T-Clamps kind of made me nervous to wrench them down, but after getting them as tight as I could, it eventually worked and stopped leaking. I guess the couplers just needed time to conform to their new angle.

To my surprise, this was actually a better setup than expected. Running DSMLink V3 and having to tune the car (after the PR FMIC install), I've been in contact with Thomas Dorris for my 3rd gear pull logs. He said that they've NEVER seen such a smooth flowing MAF curve as mine! They requested pictures, to see just how I had it installed.

I've attached some pics... hopefully this helps someone out! PM me if anyone has questions.
 

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That does look pretty good. Im going to have to consider that since I'll be running a GM as well. Good job.

Is there a reason for recirculating since you can safely vent the bov now?
 
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