Holset Turbos, PART 3

[dsm-onster]

The Boombop Shop. . .Yea, that name really invokes trust . I don't see any recirculating o2 housings left. I got one of those. With the small, 16g my spool speed increased a little bit vs. the 2g o2 housing I had. Both with 3" turboback exhaust and a poor excuse for a muffler. Nothing to write home about. Bigger diameter but terrible flow characteristics when you look at the piece. Then again, anything that fits like stock has really no room to accomodate much better flow. But, this piece is much easier to weld on though . The bottem pic shows it modified with the ebay external gate.

EDIT: BTW, this o2 housing AND my 2g o2 housing has quite a smaller inlet diameter vs. my BEP turbine housing exit. I did quite a bit of die grinder lovin' to get a smooth transition. Again,my bep housing was used. And I don't know the history. I could have been widened a bit. Though, this bep housing didn't look wider than my other bep housing I used with my 60-1. I never checked the transition between my 2g housing and that bep housing. . .

I havn't used their 38mm extenal gate knock off yet. I have to finish my h1c install. . . Gees, the shipping cost is way more than I paid. . . I bought this stuff about a month and a half ago.

 

[Spidey]

Well I'll go ahead and post what I have in my T3 setup

Fresh rebuilt HX35 - $200
OBX(not SSautochrome OBX) T3 manifold - $175
Tial 38mm gate - $100 used
ATP Turbo 3" SS tight-radius v-band downpipe w/ 2 o2 bungs and SS flex section - $175
Oil lines - ~$130
Misc. welding - $30
Total - $810

Extras
FP 4" intake - $50
JayRacing alternator relocation kit(not required but the downpipe is a little close for comfort) - $175 I think

 

[kicker91laser]

I picked up a needle valve to be able to have infinate adjustament of my oil supply to the turbo, this one is rated at 2000 psi and 400 degrees F and they have a set scew that allows you to lock the valve down once it is set. Plans are to run this between the filter housing and Earl's filter, then have an oil pressure gauge after the filter. Here is the one I used:

Item # EN-20-B, Deltrol Easy Read Flow Control, Needle and Check Valves on Air, Inc.

 

[JWoodley]

Anyone care to show photos/ideas/methods as to which they blocked the unused coolant lines?

 

[gixrman]

I picked up a needle valve to be able to have infinate adjustament of my oil supply to the turbo, this one is rated at 2000 psi and 400 degrees F and they have a set scew that allows you to lock the valve down once it is set. Plans are to run this between the filter housing and Earl's filter, then have an oil pressure gauge after the filter. Here is the one I used:

Item # EN-20-B, Deltrol Easy Read Flow Control, Needle and Check Valves on Air, Inc.

Thats a good idea.

Also ATP has undrilled and drilled oil feed flanges for T3/T4 Garrett setups does anyone know if theses will fit the Holsets?http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/m...tp&Product_Code=ATP-FLA-022&Category_Code=BCS

 

[dsm-onster]

My H1C requires a 3/8" male flare or MIP thread I THINK. I threw away the package.

Here's a decent pic of the oil feed. My h1c is on the left:

My H1C flange on the turbo is the same shape as my garrett on the right. But, the HIC would have to be drilled and tapped for that ATP unit to work. Also that oil feed female fitting you can see will have to be cut off, risking metal shavings getting into the cartridge.

There are fittings and adapters at my local Lowes that fit my H1C. Just adapt from the turbo to a garrett oil feed line. Or, buy a used holset oil feed line and adapt that to the oil filter housing (what I did). The cummins pickup truck (1991) oil line I used was too short. So I used copper line (about 8") between the oil filter housing and the braided line with compression fittings and adapters. Theres no real heat in the area. I don't think oil and copper have any issues together.

Pics:

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A side: my compressor housing bearly bumps the water pipe. I didn't need to bend the pipe for the turbo to bolt on fine ??? . . .


kicker91laser, that valve is a good idea!!! You don't have b shafts. I don't think those who still have B shafts need to worry too much about their peak oil pressure and running a holset. With b shafts idle oil pressure should be 9-11 psi. Considering the rule of thumb that oil pressure goes up 10 psi for every 1000rpms, blocks with b shafts should see 70psi at 7K. The Holset hx30_32_35_40 Service Repair Manual states:

The minimum oil pressure when the engine is on load must be 210 kPa (30 lbf/in2). Maximum permissible operating pressure is 500 kPa (72 lbf/in2) although 600 kPa (88 lbf/in2) is permitted during cold start up. Under idling conditions pressure should not fall below 70 kPa (10 lbf/in2).​

Not much restriction is needed if you're running b shafts, in my opinion. But, yes of course, those without b shafts see over 100psi peak and should do something about it. Taking your engine past 8K? . . . well, I wonder. The manual seams to indicate that brief spells of up to 88psi are ok.

 

[gixrman]

Thanks for the info. I'm still trying to piece this manifold together. Its a real PITA.

 

[kicker91laser]

No, not taking it past 8k, but I still want to ensure I am getting the correct anount of oil pressure since I also have a new oil pump. I looked back a little ways, didn't run across it, what size is the oil onlet on the hx40?

 

[IPT]

M12x1.5 is the thread pitch for the oil inlet.

 

[Maglin]

Matt I see you BIG problem. If you look closely in the 3rd pic you can see it. Right on your oil filter housing is something BAD. The FRAM oil filter.

 

[dsm-onster]

I know there's better out there. It hasn't blown yet. My oil pan gasket leak keeps clean oil in the block. I'm lazy to a fault when it's below freezing all day. I have no garage.

 

[GORBS88]

I know there's better out there. It hasn't blown yet. My oil pan gasket leak keeps clean oil in the block. I'm lazy to a fault when it's below freezing all day. I have no garage.

Matt, my set-up is the straight hx-40 6 blade (not hybrid) in the bolt on .55 A/R bullseye housing.

 

[dsm-onster]

That's pretty nice spool for a turbine wheel sized similar to a t4 p-trim, 272s, and a rather large compressor.

Well were on the topic of spool times, with my hx-40 pro in 4th gear starting at 2500rpm i get 20psi by 4k. This is with 272 cams.

Did you install the tubular exhaust mani after the hx40? I am just wondering if the tubular header made much of difference in spool.

 

[GORBS88]

That's pretty nice spool for a turbine wheel sized similar to a t4 p-trim, 272s, and a rather large compressor.



Did you install the tubular exhaust mani after the hx40? I am just wondering if the tubular header made much of difference in spool.

I installed the tube manny when i had the hx-35, which improved spool time by 200-300 rpm over a ported 2g manny.

 

[Maglin]

I tallied up my parts list to get my DSM going again with the HX-52 and I'm looking at around $4.6K w/o the exhaust v-band flange if I can ever find it. I do hope to be putting up some pics of the car and a dyno sheet or at least a 1/4 time slip by the end of summer. Working 70 hours a week it's not the money but the time that's the hardest time to come by to get this thing going.

I hear ya about working on your car when it's cold. I had to change a starter in a parking lot on my old 70 Skylark when we had -22* ambient's and -40-50 wind chills. Even my large propane heater did nothing for me. Don't ever want to do anything like that in the cold again.

 

[dsm-onster]

I tallied up my parts list to get my DSM going again with the HX-52 and I'm looking at around $4.6K w/o the exhaust v-band flange if I can ever find it. I do hope to be putting up some pics of the car and a dyno sheet or at least a 1/4 time slip by the end of summer. Working 70 hours a week it's not the money but the time that's the hardest time to come by to get this thing going.

I know those two phrases arn't really related, but it's funny to see.

I have my h1c installed. It looks so at home.

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. . .But, I'll just have a chance to get the coolant and oil in her this evening. . .

 

[Spidey]

I'll have some more pics other than whats in my gallery already as soon as I do some spring cleaning of the engine bay

 

[kicker91laser]

Does anyone know where I can get the correct fitting for the h1e oil supply? Mine has the inverted flare fitting on the chra.

 

[selmerguy]

I am jumping on the holset bandwagon. After seeing Mike's holset powered 1g in missouri last year I am hooked. After I get back from my tour here in Iraq I will be checking out the .70 ar t3 housing with v-band dp. I am always in the market for cheap power. My car currently is setup with a t3 mani and 38mm external. Those of you rocking the t3 vband housing could you get me some pics on it installed. I really would like to see from the top and the angle of the dp to the stock exhaust. I wont have much fabrication problems(pretty crafty) but any install pics would help me get a game plan. Also what fittings are used in the feed and return? I read flare fittings which I am not to familiar with. My car has a -4an feed and -12an return. Any chance of adaptors??? Thanks for the help. Looking to be in the 11's when I get back.

 

[dsm-onster]

Finally did a couple of quick runs. The h1c spools to 10psi by 3000rpms in third gear from 2300rpms. It feels as strong at 12 psi as my small16g did at 18psi! The ebay wastegate holds 5psi, 7psi, 10psi, and 12psi rock solid.

I'll be trying to scrape together some time to get a log of this turbo at the same boost/tune/mods as my small16g for a comparison. But as it stands, it spools nearly as quick as the small16g with the same mods. And feels as strong at a much lower boost!!!

 

[selmerguy]

I have had no problem with my ebay wastegate. I have ran it for 4 years now with no issues. Held 20 psi with no problems.

 

[Spidey]

Here are some more pics of my T3/v-band setup, had to adjust the brightness in a few so sorry if they look washed out. And no, the DP isn't touching the alternator, theres a tiny bit of clearance, and yes, I DD it like this for now.

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[dsm-onster]

My wastegate actuator is very close to my alternator. I did this to allow me to add my powersteering pump at a later date, if I so choose. Your tubular mani looks like a honda ebay unit for a mhi turbo. It's actually a nice looking piece. Be sure to tell us how your setup does!


Yea, I'm really liking my $70 ebay wastegate, selmerguy!


I am so impressed with this holset! I really am excited about getting a few logs and quick tune done. This thing spools VERY fast!!! I drove it again. This thing really does spool as fast as a 16g! I'm afraid that this quick spool is at a sacrifice to flow. But, I have the "big" h1c. Not the pre-1992 h1c. The cummins guys look at this as an upgrade to the "small" h1c, and swapping to the hx35 from this turbo is not a worthwhile upgrade. . . I hope it flows close to as much as an hx35 does in the small bep housing!

 

[Spidey]

My manifold is a real OBX unit, so far so good Granted I wouldn't run one of their turbos, the manifold is actually quite nice. I need to get a new PS rack and get this alternator relocation kit on and and my 272s in, ugh.

 

[selmerguy]

So spidey, You are using the stock HX-35 housing? What do you think of it? I am still torn between the BEP or just sticking with the stocker 9cm housing.