Blowing off intercooler pipes [Merged 7-8] ic intake

[RaysTsi]

The stock lower intercooler pipe pops off my Big T28 Killer when it starts to boost. Why? Do I need a hard pipe? Well i'm leaking coolant and have to go tighten this bolt down. Please give some advice Im stumped.

 

[Mike1992]

and take a good luck at your motor mounts for wear, aka torn or broken

 

[elementalwindx]

I'm boosting 20-30psi on my 95 Talon AWD and I cant get my IC pipes to hold. Heres a description of how my pipes are setup

TB, coupler, pipe, coupler IC.

IC, coupler, pipe, reducer from 2.5 to 2.25in, 90deg bend, coupler, 90deg bend, coupler, turbo.


Everything between is welded togeather. On the driver side I have a muffler hanger bolted to the frame and welded to the pipe, holding the pipe to the IC. Its all held on by stupid worm clamps, but my weakness seems to be in the two 90deg bends where its seriously a tight fit by the milimeter due to the t3/t4 being shaped like a t25.

Anyone here got any great ideas to solve this so that I can boost 30psi?

I'm thinking of zip tying the 2 90deg bends togeather with some thick zipties so that they wont seperate again. But I'm having trouble at the reducer, and beading the pipe would make it just the wrong size to make it fit.

BTW This is on a front mount.

 

[igopoopy]

do they blow off ?

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/eclipsetech/icpipebead.htm

 

[elementalwindx]

do they blow off ?

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/eclipsetech/icpipebead.htm

Saw that last year. Beads wont work in this position. I know it sounds hard to believe but theres not enuf room to bead that pipe. Basically the reducer would not fit around the bead because it barely fits around the pipe itself as it is. The whole lower cross member and motor mount get in the way. Which surprises me that its not helping hold the coupler onto the pipe cause its a squeeze.

+ NOBODY in this town owns a beading machine Nobody even owns a real mandrel bender here either. Wilmington blows like that.

 

[unlmtdndeavor]

if the reducer doesnt fit with a bead, then it's the wrong size. i have all my pipes beaded and all reducers and couplers fit perfect. TurboHoses R&D those are guaranteed not to blow off. same ones buschur racing uses

 

[BoostedTalonTS]

Since beading is out, have you tried the ol' BMX bike handlebar grip trick? -A little hair spray on the hard pipes before slipping on the union/reducer? -Try that and some REAL (T-Bolt style) clamps.

-Just don't be surprised if you have to cut off that coupler or reducer if you ever need to remove it

 

[funniegus]

Use JBWELD to make beads. Thats what I did and it works.

 

[mavisky]

Big clamps. I got a set of diesel truck clamps from napa that are pretty close to t-bolts for about half the price $4.36 per clamp.

 

[wret]

Make a custome 180° coupler or weld your two 90° bends together.

 

[elementalwindx]

Make a custome 180° coupler or weld your two 90° bends together.

I wanted to weld those 90deg bends togeather but they are the tight angle aluminum ones from RRE and nobody here can weld aluminum. I have a nappa down the street and I'm about to go there, so I'll get those clamps your describing! Thanks you guys! I'll try the hair spray too!

 

[99gst_racer]

Its all held on by stupid worm clamps

^^^ That's probably one the the big weak links. Get some t-bolt clamps asap. They offer twice the camping force as the old worm clamps.

due to the t3/t4 being shaped like a t25.

So your turbo has an elbow welded to it that faces the passender side?
I've actually seen people cut those off and weld them on facing the other way. Just an idea - it might really save you some headache of routing those IC pipes the way you have them.

 

[Zexell]

Use JBWELD to make beads. Thats what I did and it works.

oooo, i was gonna goto an exhaust shop to get my pipes beaded but I might do this instead, how many pounds and how long do they hold?

 

[mavisky]

All of my new piping is JB beaded with the good clamps and its holding fine right now.

 

[elementalwindx]

^^^ That's probably one the the big weak links. Get some t-bolt clamps asap. They offer twice the camping force as the old worm clamps.


So your turbo has an elbow welded to it that faces the passender side?
I've actually seen people cut those off and weld them on facing the other way. Just an idea - it might really save you some headache of routing those IC pipes the way you have them.

I thought about that, and that'd require me to take the turbo off . I'll go with the tbolt clamps first. Thanks. I'm glad to hear more than 1 persons at least thought of it and done it.

 

[kristmen]

Big clamps. I got a set of diesel truck clamps from napa that are pretty close to t-bolts for about half the price $4.36 per clamp.

Napa sells real T-Bolt clamps too now btw Not those shitty spring loaded things. Well they sell those too. Anyway there tbol clamps are like $3 dollars each.

My whole FMIC setup is being held on with NAPA's tbolt clamps with no beaded or flaired edges and my pipes havent blown once.

Suckers work good.

 

[elementalwindx]

Napa sells real T-Bolt clamps too now btw Not those shitty spring loaded things. Well they sell those too. Anyway there tbol clamps are like $3 dollars each.

My whole FMIC setup is being held on with NAPA's tbolt clamps with no beaded or flaired edges and my pipes havent blown once.

Suckers work good.

The thing that is also a pro and a con is that NAPPAs are independantly owned so not all NAPPAs carry those tbolt clamps. Both of the ones here dont

I'll tell ya one thing tho. That hairspray idea sure did work. Holding 15psi solid as can be

 

[danielbui]

i second the JB weld. i used the normal stuff and not the quick dry and it holds for me 20+ psi and normal clamps that are $0.50 a piece. i have 1 T-bolt clamp and 1 constant torque clamp (the same clamp that was explained as a Diesel truck clamp) because of the thickness of the band. when you get T-bolt clamps or constant torque clamps make sure you get the exact size that the pipe is or they will be worthless.

 

[SexyGsX]

This is what I thought up, and I have had no problems whatsoever. I would still suggest better clamps. This takes two seconds and is free. Hope this helps! Check the attachment and it is about two thirds down the page posted by me.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=192058

 

[arash15]

i'd bead the pipes. and since you have trouble getting the couplers on, heat them up a tad bit so they could expand a little. then it will slip over the beaded pipe with a little force. then there would be almost no way the pipes could blow off. as the coupler cools down it will shape itself

 

[CyberEye]

GOOD quality couplers, good T-Bolt Clamps, and beaded pipes.

End thread, enough said.
Good day.

 

[spooledu1st]

T-bolts, and hairspray to clean the pipes!

 

[Cool Mr Steve]

JBweld is great stuff, but I've been using Quiksteel and it is WAY easier to use and WAY faster. It's goes on like silly putty and hardens like JBweld, only it hardens in about 10-15 minutes... Great stuff.

 

[funniegus]

krazy glue!

 

[99gst_racer]

I thought about that, and that'd require me to take the turbo off .

Not necessarily. You might be able to pull off just the compressor housing.

I've pulled my turbo a few times just by disconnecting it where the CHRA meets the turbine housing. It really does make it much easier and it eliminates the chance of breaking off an turbo bolts.

If you continue to have leaks in that area, I would suggest clocking the elbow; even if you have to remove your turbo, it would be worth it.

 

[theSicKness]

Ive got 2 1/2 inch piping held together w/ 3 ply couplers....and i cannot keep them together everother day I'm blowing them off ...Ive got them all clamped down as tight as they will go.....the only thing i can think of to help is to beed the ends of each pipe...not looking really to weld....
Any one have suggestions?



thanx
Jesse