Blowing off intercooler pipes [Merged 7-8] ic intake

[RaysTsi]

The stock lower intercooler pipe pops off my Big T28 Killer when it starts to boost. Why? Do I need a hard pipe? Well i'm leaking coolant and have to go tighten this bolt down. Please give some advice Im stumped.

 

[rocknsnoboarder]

went out and got a new coupler and new clamps and the hose is staying on fine.
thanks for all the help

 

[funniegus]

Use hairsparay, heard it works!

 

[njc1064]

i keep blowing my intercoolr piping off...whats that about? never use to happen...

 

[Lionel Hutz]

Get the ends of them beaded if they're not already.

 

[SlowSpyder]

jb weld a bead on there if you cant get a bead rolled or welded on your piping

 

[tstkl]

in my case, there wasn't enough free play on the licp, and one of my motor mounts was blown. When I launched hard, the engine would rip the jpipe out of the licp and cause them to come appart like that. I switched to polyurithane motor mounts and the problem was solved. You might want to check to make sure all your intercooler pipes have plenty of free play.

 

[Quasimondo]

Use longer couplers and t-bolt clamps.

 

[ivanr4g63]

Like mentioned above JB-weld works good, clean up the end of the pipe real good, if possible scrape/scratch the end a little bit so the JB-Weld hold onto the piping better once it dries, then all you need is to apply some on like two points of the pipe like top and bottom, not neccesary all around the end of the pipe, basically all you do is create a bump so when pipes and hose clamps are under pressure they won't slip off. Let dry real good, it dries rather quick anyway, but a couple of hours and it will cure better, after that you could use your regular hose clamps and it should be fine, but T-Bolt clamps are best, Napa has them for around $3 each depending on size.

A much cheaper option is to bend the end of the pipe open just a little with plyers, also just on top and bottom of the same end of the piping, enough to make a bump and stop the silicone hose from blowing off and it will fix the problem as well, but be careful not to make the ends sharp as you bend so it won't puncture the silicone hose.

Applying a small, very small layer of RTV will help seal great and stop the slipping of the rubber.

 

[Defiant]

Aqua-Net hair spray. Blue, not pink.

 

[MrBoxx]

Aqua-Net hair spray. Blue, not pink.

If you can't find Aqua-Net at your local store, try writing to any member of Poison. They still have cases of the stuff from their last tour.

 

[oldman]

I used to use Aqua-Net (on my hair), pink if memory serves.

 

[spatulahunter1]

you guys should add aqua net to the parts catalog heh. I felt so ghetto the first time i tried it but the stuff works damned good

 

[2gGSX]

Use longer couplers and t-bolt clamps.

This first part was my downfall Make sure yours have plenty of overlap over the pipes if at all possible.

 

[andymoraitis]

If you can't find Aqua-Net at your local store, try writing to any member of Poison. They still have cases of the stuff from their last tour.

That's freaking golden! Best post of the day...

 

[njc1064]

yeah, my first thought was to put a beed of weld on it....the problem is that it is the section where the gm MAF is, so there isnt too much room for weld....i just dont get it, ive driven that car for 10 months now and never ever had a problem...i take my boost controller off for 20 minutes to lend to a friend and now im blowing off my intercooler piping...the boost is lower than before...pretty weird

 

[Defiant]

I used to use Aqua-Net (on my hair), pink if memory serves.

Precisely why I warned them away.

 

[RacethisTSI]

I have a sbr fmic with the short rout 2.5 inch piping. i have a 3 inch maf as well...the problem ive been haveing and cant not solve, is the the cupler blowing off the maf on the throttle body side. everytime i put it into boost the coupler blows off, witch leaves the motor to die as it runs dirt rich. i have tighten that t bolt clamp as tight as i can and gotten it over the lip as much as a could. but it wont stay on....im thinking it has somthing to do with the pressure increase from the 3 to 2.5 inch pipe, but i don tknow...any help on how to keep this on would be very usefull..my profile of mods is up to date and i run 35 lbs of boost on this system...thank you

 

[FORMONTOYA]

Your main problem is that 35PSI, although I wish I could pull that kind of boost. The key would be for some beading of the pipe. If there is no way to do that...then get some sandpaper and "scuff" the surface where the coupler goes, then make your own "bead" out of something like JB Weld. Let it dry over night. Then "give it a whirl".

 

[RacethisTSI]

yeah thats what i was kinda thiking...just take the maf to some place who could tig weld aluminum and just get a more aggresive bead...but this happens somtimes at boost levels as low as 21 lbs

 

[FORMONTOYA]

Yea, if it already has beading, then it's going to need a more aggressive bead as it's hard to believe it's blowing off T-Bolt clamps at 21PSI.

My pipes have the standard "rolled" bead with a 5/8" wide T-Bolt clamp with no problems...but then again I only hit 20PSI.

 

[RacethisTSI]

yeah...when you think about it though..the gm maf doesnt have much of a bead on it..oh well i guess ill try and get back at ya and let you know how it goes

 

[wret]

I've never had a coupler blow of the GM MAF. You might try constant pressure clamps rather than T-bolt clamps.

 

[DSM90AWD]

Silicone coupers tend to be pretty rigid not allowing for "flex" when the engine torks back/forth. As such, I'd strongly suggest adding a "hump" style connector somewhere on that long run from the FMIC to TB which would remove alot of the "pull" on the MAS connectors

 

[spartan]

you could also try the hairspray trick for something cheap and simple? Even if it doesn't work you haven't spent any money...

 

[FORMONTOYA]

Silicone coupers tend to be pretty rigid not allowing for "flex" when the engine torks back/forth. As such, I'd strongly suggest adding a "hump" style connector somewhere on that long run from the FMIC to TB which would remove alot of the "pull" on the MAS connectors

The "hump" style coupler is a great idea. I keep forgetting about those.

Reference: http://www.boostcontroller.com/index.php?category=34

You are probably right in the sense that it's pulling off under load (engine flex/movement) and not just blowing off under pressure. How are the front/back motor mounts looking after 35PSI runs?