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Altered Mental Status(1G AWD 5spd)

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I know somewhere back in the thread you said pedal assembly is rebuilt. Do you know how it was done? I've seen this done incorrectly.
 
Operation Slow-as-molasses is proceeding on schedule.

Which means I removed the exhaust today. Transmission will be removed by a thousand paper cuts.


From here only things left are axles removed, t-case dropped, then trans unbolted and dropped.
 
I feel like I’ve officially joined the old man club. I actually just bought a pair of safety glasses because I’m sick to death of getting rust and dirt and god knows what else in my eye everytime I’m under this damn thing. Lol.

But yeah. Feels surreal. No more safety squints.
 
I feel like I’ve officially joined the old man club. I actually just bought a pair of safety glasses because I’m sick to death of getting rust and dirt and god knows what else in my eye everytime I’m under this damn thing. Lol.

But yeah. Feels surreal. No more safety squints.
ughhh...shame...Ive lost 0.1oz of respect for you now ....Next thing you know, you'll be wearing a respirator when you paint something.... :p

.
 
And headphones while mowing......ROFL
 
I feel like I’ve officially joined the old man club. I actually just bought a pair of safety glasses because I’m sick to death of getting rust and dirt and god knows what else in my eye everytime I’m under this damn thing. Lol.
I think you'll need to do something different to get in the old man club.
Gen Z thinks safety glasses are very stylish!

Mayu and Kotone styling with safety glasses ---.jpg
 
Well, awhile back(like, months) I bought the missing north/south bar aka crossmember aka WTFeverelseitscalled that runs underneath the transmission(passenger side north/south bar). I did this because while removing the transmission and heli-coiling the trans under the car awhile back, I took the driver's side bar off, and I could visibly see the core support flex and sag without it. It astounded me and right then I found one.

I found one for super cheap that was rusty and greasy AF. Here it is in all it's OG glory.

IMG_5868.jpeg

IMG_5867.jpeg


Oof. It was worse than it looks, but wasn't actually rotten away in any spots, just some serious surface rust. So I brought it to work with me and wire-wheeled it down as good and as far as a 1/4" drill could feasibly do, and shot it with some primer. You can still see a couple spots. It's clean, but not perfectly smooth. Nor will it probably ever be.

IMG_5862.jpeg



So much better already. But now let's give it a nice coat of rustoleum black.

IMG_5866.jpeg


Boom. This is how the final product looks and is gonna look (I used the same paint on the center trim/1GA grill I took pics of earlier in the build thread) and I'm SUPER happy with it. It somewhat matches the other one in how it's not perfectly smooth, and it's lightyears better than before.

Not perfect but a ton better. One day I’ll get a grinder and make it(and other rusty stuff I have) perfectly smooth, but until then I'm happy with this. Especially considering it's gonna immediately be coated with oil and dents/dings/whatever else, and at best no one will ever see it but me.
 
Got the axles out. The key this time was having my wife hold the axle straight/parallel and turn it slowly while I did the “wrist flick” thing with a prybar and it came out with such little effort I actually asked aloud “did that just actually work?” To which my wife promptly answered “yes”. ROFL

But yeah. Very pleased. From here only the tcase needs to be dropped then the trans itself can be removed. Getting close now!


Also because updates are useless without pictures, here’s a picture of my clutch fork as it sits currently.

IMG_5870.jpeg


Til next time.
 
Got the axles out. The key this time was having my wife hold the axle straight/parallel and turn it slowly while I did the “wrist flick” thing with a prybar and it came out with such little effort I actually asked aloud “did that just actually work?” To which my wife promptly answered “yes”. ROFL

But yeah. Very pleased. From here only the tcase needs to be dropped then the trans itself can be removed. Getting close now!


Also because updates are useless without pictures, here’s a picture of my clutch fork as it sits currently.

View attachment 730363

Til next time.
You're dropping the trans before trying the new OE master cylinder?
 
Unbolted the PP and this was the gap left after the PP touched the disk. Does this look normal to you guys? Last few pics are with the new flywheel.

IMG_5873.jpeg

IMG_5876.jpeg
IMG_5879.jpeg
IMG_5881.jpeg


It does seem like it sits down further on the dowels with the new flywheel VS the old one. But I’m a newbie. Normal or nah?
 
There's always going to be a gap as the pp friction surface sits proud of the mounts, but how much depends on the geometry of that exact pp and your clutch disc thickness. I'd say that looks normal as well but normal for yours isn't the same as normal for another setup.

Making good headway.
Refresh my memory: why did you remove the trans yet again after the new flywheel was installed?
 
Did you happen to take a picture of the pressure plate fingers after you torqued it down to the flywheel?

I’m just curious as some clutches I’ve used made a point on checking it with different flywheels and combos

-Daniel
 
There's always going to be a gap as the pp friction surface sits proud of the mounts, but how much depends on the geometry of that exact pp and your clutch disc thickness. I'd say that looks normal as well but normal for yours isn't the same as normal for another setup.

Making good headway.
Refresh my memory: why did you remove the trans yet again after the new flywheel was installed?

I never installed my new flywheel, I installed the old one hoping it would be fine. When I had clutch disengagement issues I couldn't verify step height or condition of the old flywheel, so I just bought and installed a brand new one from Tim Zimmer/TMZ Performance, and had it shipped directly to him to get him to check step height and make sure it was good. It passed with flying colors, so I know for a fact mechanically everything is spec'd, torqued, and fine.


Did you happen to take a picture of the pressure plate fingers after you torqued it down to the flywheel?

I’m just curious as some clutches I’ve used made a point on checking it with different flywheels and combos

-Daniel

In fact I did! Pictures below.

IMG_5885.jpeg
IMG_5886.jpeg
IMG_5888.jpeg



It cannot get any different as far as fingers go. If I still have disengagement issues when this is all done, I'll change the master with a brand new OEM one. If I still have disengagement issues after that's done, installed, adjusted and checked, I'll be RMA'ing this clutch back to Southbend because legit everything at that point will be new, adjusted, and perfect.


But, I got the transmission back in as pictured above, with the mount torqued in, also got the axles, t-case, inspection cover, hubs, and wheels all in and tight. From here only thing I need to do is exhaust, crossbrace for the trans, starter, UICP/Intake, and battery. Not very much at all. But I'm done for the day, very happy with progress for today.

IMG_5895.jpeg
 
I never installed my new flywheel, I installed the old one hoping it would be fine. When I had clutch disengagement issues I couldn't verify step height or condition of the old flywheel, so I just bought and installed a brand new one from Tim Zimmer/TMZ Performance, and had it shipped directly to him to get him to check step height and make sure it was good. It passed with flying colors, so I know for a fact mechanically everything is spec'd, torqued, and fine.




In fact I did! Pictures below.

View attachment 730457View attachment 730458View attachment 730459


It cannot get any different as far as fingers go. If I still have disengagement issues when this is all done, I'll change the master with a brand new OEM one. If I still have disengagement issues after that's done, installed, adjusted and checked, I'll be RMA'ing this clutch back to Southbend because legit everything at that point will be new, adjusted, and perfect.


But, I got the transmission back in as pictured above, with the mount torqued in, also got the axles, t-case, inspection cover, hubs, and wheels all in and tight. From here only thing I need to do is exhaust, crossbrace for the trans, starter, UICP/Intake, and battery. Not very much at all. But I'm done for the day, very happy with progress for today.

View attachment 730460
Ooh I thought you put the new flywheel in already since you posted a fork picture. it looked better than the very first one but maybe I'm mistaken. I thought you had the new setup together again already.
Best of luck broseph, hoping for the best for ya here
 
Oh! I forgot to include @Justin DuBois videos I took for him.

Removal



Installation




Not videoed was me torqueing the flywheel bolts to 100 ft/lbs, would've been repetitive, but that's what happened after all the flywheel bolts were loctited and then tightened. Also, my dewalt impact has adjustable torque settings, so that setting pictured was limited to 100 ft/lbs, so don't worry thinking I ugga duggad them to 1400 ft/lbs. Lol

But yeah. Enjoy. May take like 10-20 minutes to actually load the HD videos because youtube sucks.
 
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