1g Auto Slingshot Build

[tkstoygsx]

Nice work, keep it up. I am also building a 1g auto at this time. Sub'd

 

[kiggly]

In regards to our High Pressure Beehive Valve Spring kit - at 97lbs on the seat, this kit is rated for 45psi and 11,000rpm up to 0.500” lift with greater boost allowed if shimmed to higher pressures. Our Racing Spring kit is for more extreme engine builds with a seat pressure of 135lb that can be shimmed up to 150lb, targeting cars running more than 45lbs of boost. Figured it was relevant to mention this here for anyone reading, based on what was posted above.

 

[JacksonAuto]

Yeah I've heard all that before and still choose to use different springs in higher boost engines. We use a LOT of the Kiggly springs, like I said they're great in most applications. The beehive spring has the advantage of being lightweight and it holds up really well. The issue boost pressure is constantly trying to push or "blow" the valve open and the spring needs to be able to resist this force.The boost pressure is multiplied as the valve is closing because the air is being forced through a smaller and smaller area between the valve and seat as it enters the chamber. Been there done that on plenty of boosted, competition engines over the years. It's common knowledge in the engine building industry. I'm astonished that everyone in this DSM "community" can't grasp the idea.

Area of the intake valve is 1.47 sq/in.
Multiply that by your 45 psi and you come up with 66.15. This is how many PSI the boost is reducing the seat pressure.
135 - 66.15 = 68.85 lbs seat pressure.
Would you build a head with 68lbs on the seat? Hell no.

I've seen and fixed plenty of heads which were assembled with insufficient valve springs. The result can be anything from a random miss at WOT to accelerated wear on the valve and seat or problems kicking rockers, etc. Bad things happen when the valve doesn't close when it's supposed to. After installing appropriate springs the customers always see improvements in power, reliability and engine life.

 

[Critic4Du3ce]

Love the build. I'm doing an auto myself but in a 2g

 

[1SIC1Gb]

Thanks ! Can't wait to see what it can do on the dyno

 

[Critic4Du3ce]

You and me both!

 

[1SIC1Gb]

Small updates, have our friends at FIST Racing doing the intercooler piping and this downpipe. What great work!

Man that's a lot of pie cuts!

 

[1SIC1Gb]

So after 20 minutes of run time, put the car on the lift . Noticed a small oil pan gasket leak and decided to fix it.

Pulled the pan and found a lot of bearing material in the bottom of the pan. Contacted Jackson Auto Machine and they had me pull a few rod bearings . #2 looked ok, #3 and #4 were very damaged in the center of the bearing where the oil port in the crank is located. Very frustrated but lucky I had an oil leak and noticed since it would have shotgunned on the dyno . Waiting on jackson auto machine to see what to do next .


In the meantime I have good friends, and they want to see the car run for tx2k. So I have a machined block, on the shelf at the shop I had manley turbo tuff rods with arp 625 bolts, and weisco 1400hd 10.5:1 Pistons. Going to be a sprint to get it done in time but fingers crossed . Pulled the JAM engine out tonight so we are making progress .

 

[1SIC1Gb]

Here's a funny thing. Pulled the junkyard engine out, pulled the head off for the first time since finding it in the dirt at the junkyard and find this. Obviously ate something at some point, but despite all the potential hot spots and detonation this thing could have had, it never had any issues. Blows my mind . Last time this engine ran was a few months back when it went 10.8@126

 

[1SIC1Gb]

Long story short, I sent Tony the pictures of the bearings, and he said I would have to send him the engine. It was around 500.00 to ship the engine back to me when it came. So I'll have to come out of pocket that money. Bottom line is no matter what, I'll be looking at well over 1000.00 just in shipping to have them look at it.

I made the suggestion to have a local machine shop of their choosing do an analysis on the engine and report the findings to both Jackson and myself. Tony said he would not do that . I also sent him pictires of the cut open oil filter which is full of all kinds of metal/ bearing material. He said since he didn't see any machinist cuttings in there, it couldn't have been from improper cleaning . I am so frustrated right now. What to do?

 

[1SIC1Gb]

Some progress pictures. As of now, the engine is 90% done, new rear subframe is all bolted back in and ready. Lots of long hours and sore muscles to get to this point.

Newer vs new engines.

Old vs new subframes before being power washed .

Mike at F.I.S.T Racing laying down some head oil porting .

New subframe ready to be installed. Man, having a lift for this is nice!

Wiseco hd2 10.5:1 E85 Pistons.

FIST and Vaughn Speed Shop collaboration.

Nearly there now.

 

[Kapok6]

Is there any reason you wouldn't/couldn't go to a reputable machine shop locally and give them your items and the specs and have them do any of the work you can't do in regards to machining and setting clearances, then reassemble yourself in house? You seem more than capable of working on a car, so assembly would be a breeze. Just tossing that out there as it may be cheaper than going back and forth with Jackson.

Not knocking on JAM, as I have never used them, but since I wasn't in a financial position to have one of the known 4G builders put a motor together for me, (if I was, Curt Brown would have had my money like yesterday), I decided on the parts I wanted/could afford to use, and had an old school local shop do the machine work and check the clearances, then I just assembled myself. They took their time, and granted, I only have 500-600mi on the motor at this point, but I have beat the snot out of that motor from the moment I fired it up and not had any issues with it, (30-35psi on a 60lb/min turbo).

On a different topic, what do you have, or are going to have done with your trans? Anything beyond your standard shift kit, kiggly front/ipt end clutches, welded dif, etc?

 

[1SIC1Gb]

I will have that done now with this aluminum rod block. Going to have someone local go through it and get the root cause of it and fix it.
I'll just do like I am doing now here on the new one. Just have them assemble the rotating assembly in the shortblock and assemble the rest myself.

As far as the trans goes, I have what you mentioned.
IPT end clutches, Kiggly front clutches, shift kit, and welded ctr diff, and a Bradco converter. The only other thing I want to so is the straight cut transfer gears in the trans. That will keep from splitting the case off the line.

 

[Kapok6]

yeah, I was thinking about those straight gears too. I haven't had a chance to dig into the trans yet, but I found this (pic attached), in my pan earlier this week. Not sure yet if its from one of the transfer gears or not, but I am interested in finding out.

 

[1SIC1Gb]

Not sure yet if its from one of the transfer gears or not, but I am interested in finding out.View attachment 260114 View attachment 260115

Looks that way, if it is, you are very lucky that they didn't split your case. Even a sliver can get in between those transfer gears and force them apart, breaking your case. That's what happened to my last trans.

 

[1SIC1Gb]

Stayed very late today, got the engine and trans bolted in the car.

 

[DSM Chase]

We had an engine assembled locally that ate the main bearings with all new parts in about 30 minutes idle as well, it seems sometimes they bind the bearings up on assembly, now we usually hit the crank back and forth with a rubber bfh In between torque sequences on the mains to help seat the bearings.

 

[1SIC1Gb]

Drove the car over to the chassis shop today, getting the suspension all setup and it all aligned. This k member is a little more complex than stock.

Also had to swap the rear subframe. Being from the north, there was some rust. The rear toe was pretty far out and when they went to align it, everything was seized. Luckily I found one locally that was in great shape.

 

[1SIC1Gb]

Not the report I was hoping for it not terrible. Took the car to the dyno last minute and made a few pulls, was making 32psi on wg pressure, and the first full pull we got in made 607whp. The dyno screen was freezing up so I have no idea what kind of power it put down after that, the car is currently at 40psi.

The turbo is absolutely amazing. Pulls very very hard all the way up to the 9500rpm limit.

Now for the crummy news, the cometic hg failed on the dyno, first pushing the dipstick completely out on one of the pulls, we got that fixed by upgrading my 6an catch can to 10an while on the dyno!

It also pushed my mishimoto radiator cap completely off the car. I know now these caps are not very good, but it's never given me any issues. Regardless , it's got a blown headgasket on cyl 1. Did run it at the track once to see how it did with a new cap, crept off the line to the tune of a 2.3 60' and the car broke up bad in 3rd, and still pulled 143mph. I think with a proper launch, the car will easily go 150mph and deep 9s.

Now back to the drawing board on the headgasket issues. I know 11:1 with a milled head is not easy on these gaskets but I was expecting better .

Looking into head inserts and bigger head studs but still have to look farther into that. Car has insane top end though.

 

[1SIC1Gb]

 

[bastarddsm]

Is this on that 67mm holset contraption? Do you have a dybo sheet? I'd like to see where the boost is coming in.

 

[1SIC1Gb]

I don't, I'll be going back when I get this headgasket issue fixed. But I have full boost by 5400 when we were dynoing if I remember correctly . But we started the pull at 35-3800rpm so it's hard to tell really. The damn dyno computer crashed unfortunately. On the track I could build 15psi on the footbrake though at around 3800rpm. That's with the Gsc s3's and the magnus cast v3, ported head/ oversized valves.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Trying to tell spool on a car with a restalled converter isn't like it would be on a manual where you can make a third gear pull and track it. The slip of the converter is going to throw it all over the place.



Nice work so far man, really rooting for this car. Once you get the issues ironed out, gotta give me your street impressions of the turbo compared to the HX35/BEP housing combo.

 

[bastarddsm]

That's definatly better than I would have expected it to run power wise, spool seems lazy expecially fot a t/s. I have an ancient borg warner off a caterpillar tractor, in a similar sized t/s housing, and it is about 1000rpm better.

 

[Ludachris]

For what it's worth I have run a JAM 2.3L stroker in my 91 GSX since 2004. The car has been tracked quite a bit and street driven even more. I've probably got about 4-5k miles on it. It's been a strong motor. I am just one person though. And that doesn't mean my experience is necessarily going to be the same for everyone. Every engine builder out there is going to f*** up from time to time. I don't leave a lot of reviews for vendors because I figure people would just disregard what I say about supporting vendors, assuming I'm biased because they support the site. I should probably do it anyway for those who know me better than that.

I always ask the mods to toss out hearsay when it comes to vendor complaints. The problem is, the hearsay fills up threads like this and makes it difficult to determine what is worth noting and what isn't.

And please people, post a first name in your signature so we can all be less anonymous. It helps us all get to know each other and it's much easier to give credence to strong statements when a person puts a name next to those statements, especially in situations like this. When I don't see a real name in a signature I automatically wonder if it's a troll - not all who want to remain anonymous are trolls, but all trolls definitely want to remain anonymous. I'm not calling anyone in this thread a troll, I'm just saying that people will put more weight into what you have to say if you make an effort to be less anonymous.