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1g Auto Slingshot Build

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No the engine is going to be going in shortly.
It trapped 145mph literally rolling out and breaking up with the blown hg. I know it can trap 150+ with the current tune. Didn't even turn it up on the dyno. But soon we should be able to get some clean runs.
 
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SCE Titan copper
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Also have been spitting alternator belts pretty regularly after I put on the jay racing kit. The spacing was as close as I could get it to line up, even had to notch the frame. Still no good. Got this pulley from another member, should fix the problem and allow me to run it on the inside belt route.
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That pulley is one of the best things I have ever bought. I have not had a single alt belt issue since I bought that pulley. It's a very nice piece.
 
Where's that pulley from? How do I get one? Also what are you guys (EVERYONE) doings it's the belts when it comes to removing power steering, relocating the alt and using a fluidamper pulley? How is the belt getting tension? Sorry to thread jack but I need answers man LOL
 
Yeah, I've heard of some good and some bad. Seems they deal well on the combustion pressure but not great on the coolant and oil. Hopefully it works, being oringed, this seems to be the best option .
 
I would not use the copper gasket unless you are running an SS oring in the head and receiver groove in the block, or vise versa. An OEM MLS with an SS oring in the head seems to be the best pain free option. Hopefully it all works out for you though!
 
I would not use the copper gasket unless you are running an SS oring in the head and receiver groove in the block, or vise versa. An OEM MLS with an SS oring in the head seems to be the best pain free option. Hopefully it all works out for you though!
Thats exactly what i am running. We will see. Hoping to have the hg issue behind me.
 
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Had some issues with the 1/2" block inserts pulling out when I was torquing my head down so I finally got all the machine work done and stronger inserts in and got the head on. Timing belt is also on.
 
Great work man ! Looking forward to see this setup in action :thumb:
 
I've missed this sweet setup. Exhaust and turbo wise, this car is just as I want it. Now just need the rest of the car up to par.
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That rear line off the water pipe is supposed to go to the TB isn't it? and then the outlet on the housing goes to the heater core?
 
^Ok, just checking, wasn't sure if I was doing something wrong.

Keep up the good work, can't wait to see more vids of this car in action.
 
Couldn't sleep last night so I decided to work on the car a bit and ended up getting the engine and trans installed . Now with the solid mounts, it usually takes 4 people and a bunch of hours to get all the mounts in but for whatever reason, it went in easy last night.
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Also look how much more room there is with this pulley. Before, the nut was not visible through the hole in the frame.
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So Jackson auto machine put these Manley dual springs in this head and did the valve job. Checked the compression and noticed none on 3&4 so I chalked it up to the engine never being ran and maybe just needed to be seated. Turns out the rockers are hitting the retainers pretty severely, enough to open the valves slighltly. They cut the valves down too much causing the issues. I have some kiggly springs here that I changed them out for but when they did the valve job, they cut the valves down a lot (the reason why they are hitting the retainers)
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The installed height of the kigglys is not the same as the manleys so it leaves the valves slightly open .



Sooo get to take the head off, order new valves and have this done locally at a machine shop all over again.
 
You have a lot of patience, sorry for all the crap you are dealing with that's horrible.
Kinda like my PTE 5857 with no retaining clip on the hotside bearing and they said it wasn't their fault.
 
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