What did you do to your DSM today?

[Merlin_]

No, you can't just put a larger OD bearing. It has to be repaired and line-bored by a machine shop or just eliminate the balance shafts.
RH Front 45mm
RH Rear 44mm
LH 44mm

My bad. I’m attempting to do a BS delete but the bearing is still too small to press in there. I remember seeing someone removed a plug in front of that oil port and actually tapped the oil hole to install a setscrew. I’ll do that if I can’t source a slightly larger bearing

It's must've spun in there, wallowing it out. Hmmm.

Yeah the BS belt was stripped of teeth when I took it apart. Found the gear wobbling around when I tried installing a new belt. Now I’m just trying to get them Deleted. The shaft it self must have been vibrating on that one side for a while from the P.O.

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[DreamChaser7]

It's must've spun in there, wallowing it out. Hmmm.

Or as they say in the south down here, wallering,

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Took my actual 1GB to get its inspection since it ran out early 2023 as i let it sit for some time while i worked on parts for the community instead.

This is the first time is a long time its had all gears and fully working engine that starts on the turn of the key!

Pleased to say it passed so for another year its all legal for road use! Just waiting for the log book to come back as they somehow got the vin wrong and also its listed as a dodge!! Just doge, no model nothing so i guess dodge covers it in their eyes. So im appealing that and getting it changed to Eagle Talon as it should be and they have all the details to correct this so hopefully they make it happen. Otherwise the governments breaking the law but not listing the chassis properly but makes my life alot harder each year going through insurance, tax etc etc.


One thing i need to do is reduce the translab shift kits pressure. On the NA its all noise and no go so the shifts are harsh for the NA! Will drive it for a bit longer as it is but likely needs to be dropped down a bit to make it more comfy and to match with the non turbo power levels. Other then that and an alignment its all gone well for this 1GB! Going to correct a few paint scratches but happy its now passed and alive fully once again

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On a side note i had to change the main beam bulbs as they were bad. So the osrams from my 2G went it and made a big difference and whiter also. Now i can see better.

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[19Eclipse90]

I bought a couple 2G key blanks just for that and, for some reason, decided it wouldn’t work. I’ll look at it again this evening and report back.

Good ol’ memory. At the time, I ordered two different Mitsubishi keys (different part numbers). I must have been thinking of the other key - that one certainly won’t cross over as it has the wrong profile contours.

The 2G key (MB543949) looks close to a 1G but I’m no key-ologist and not sure what, exactly, is critical on them.

In most regards, they look similar enough. I would imagine the area that threw me is where the blade widens out going towards the head. The 1G key (using a Axxess 51R in place of an original) is tapered where the 2G key has a step.

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Not only this, but the feature is not located in exactly the same spot on each. From what I can see, one could modify a 1G blank to match the 2G blank fairly easily by removing the taper area and creating the step. The opposite is not feasible while keeping all other geometry the same. Here’s the 2G overlaying the 1G; note the taper area shows below and that the point where the key reaches the blades major width is nearer to the head than the 1G.

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One last little difference is an extra notch towards the tip on the 2G key versus the 1G being fairly straight.

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Trying to make each of these differences easier to see, here’s the keys lined up with each other.

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I have no idea if any of that even matters. If the step on the 2G key is a “stop” of sorts for insertion depth, I don’t see how the 1G key would work in its place without modification. And vice versa, if the 2G was used on a 1G, it seems more likely that the insertion depth isn’t always right, which leads to excessive jiggling and wiggling to get the tumblers lined up.

The 2G DSM uses the same key blank as the 3/Ss do, but the 1G uses a different part number. As far as specifications go, ASA provides what I’d assume is blade width (10.2mm for each) and some other number I’m not quite sure what it is. The 1G is 46.1 and the 2G is 38.3. It’s not blade length as far as I can tell, which seems to be similar on each, nor is it tip angle (1G is larger than 2G).

Idk. My key is well used now and needs replacing one way or the other.

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Home Depot was unable to make me a copy so maybe I’ll get around to taking both to a lock smithy and see what they say. It doesn’t seem impossible, I’ll say that.

 

[19Eclipse90]

Quick follow up - I tried asking the “front desk” employee about the feasibility of using the 2G blank for my 1G and she said it should work.

She then tried to make a copy for me on their all metal Ilco blank (comparable to my Axxess #51) and could get it to work in everything but the trunk. When she couldn’t get it to work in everything, she handed it off to the back room guy. He tried working the one she started on, one of their all metal Ilco blanks, and was unable to get it to work until he had his machine cut it to “factory depth”. I asked him what that meant, exactly, and he said just to what it would have came with from the factory. Cool.

He then tried cutting my Axxess #51R (which I asked and they verified that only referred to the rubber head) and messed it up, decided that it was the wrong blank, so gave me another Ilco with plastic head cut the same way. These are Ilco MIT1 (X176) for the all metal and MIT1-P for the coated one. And I picked up another blank of the MIT1-P, for comparison purposes. I’ll try to study them a little more in depth later.

I asked him about the 2G key and he said it should work. So @Turbski91 seems correct, I just wasn’t going to sacrifice one of these on this little escapade.

Also interesting to see just how worn out my original is (compare to previous post).

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[CrackedDSM]

Quick follow up - I tried asking the “front desk” employee about the feasibility of using the 2G blank for my 1G and she said it should work.

She then tried to make a copy for me on their all metal Ilco blank (comparable to my Axxess #51) and could get it to work in everything but the trunk. When she couldn’t get it to work in everything, she handed it off to the back room guy. He tried working the one she started on, one of their all metal Ilco blanks, and was unable to get it to work until he had his machine cut it to “factory depth”. I asked him what that meant, exactly, and he said just to what it would have came south from the factory. Cool.

He then tried cutting my Axxess #51R (which I asked and they verified that only referred to the rubber head) and messed it up, decided that it was the wrong blank, so gave me another Ilco with plastic head cut the same way. These are Ilco MIT1 (X176) for the all metal and MIT1-P for the coated one. And I picked up another blank of the MIT1-P, for comparison purposes. I’ll try to study them a little more in depth later.

I asked him about the 2G key and he said it should work. So @Turbski91 seems correct, I just wasn’t going to sacrifice one of these on this little escapade.

Also interesting to see just how worn out my original is.

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Where'd you get this done at? I assume a local-to-you business, or was it Home Depot?

 

[Turbski91]

Quick follow up - I tried asking the “front desk” employee about the feasibility of using the 2G blank for my 1G and she said it should work.

She then tried to make a copy for me on their all metal Ilco blank (comparable to my Axxess #51) and could get it to work in everything but the trunk. When she couldn’t get it to work in everything, she handed it off to the back room guy. He tried working the one she started on, one of their all metal Ilco blanks, and was unable to get it to work until he had his machine cut it to “factory depth”. I asked him what that meant, exactly, and he said just to what it would have came south from the factory. Cool.

He then tried cutting my Axxess #51R (which I asked and they verified that only referred to the rubber head) and messed it up, decided that it was the wrong blank, so gave me another Ilco with plastic head cut the same way. These are Ilco MIT1 (X176) for the all metal and MIT1-P for the coated one. And I picked up another blank of the MIT1-P, for comparison purposes. I’ll try to study them a little more in depth later.

I asked him about the 2G key and he said it should work. So @Turbski91 seems correct, I just wasn’t going to sacrifice one of these on this little escapade.

Also interesting to see just how worn out my original is.

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To be completely honest i never even compared my original 1g key to the 2g. An old local dsmer told me about using the 2g key roughly 15 years ago, and Iv done it on everyone Iv owned since. I usually go to ACE hardware, and look for the guy that looks like he can run the key machine the best. Lol

Where'd you get this done at? I assume a local-to-you business, or was it Home Depot?

I don’t know where you’re located, but here in PA we have ace hardware, and they’re the best for cutting keys. There are also locksmiths that will come to you to do it, and are probably a better choice, but for 5$ at ace hardware I’ll take the risk. Haha

 

[19Eclipse90]

Where'd you get this done at? I assume a local-to-you business, or was it Home Depot?

It was at a local locksmith. Neither Home Depot nor Ace Hardware (my first stop, actually, as I’ve had keys made with them before) could/would do it. The Ace actually recommended this locksmith, though I knew about them prior and expected that’s where I’d end up if no one else could/would do it for me.

To be completely honest i never even compared my original 1g key to the 2g. An old local dsmer told me about using the 2g key roughly 15 years ago, and Iv done it on everyone Iv owned since. I usually go to ACE hardware, and look for the guy that looks like he can run the key machine the best. Lol


I don’t know where you’re located, but here in PA we have ace hardware, and they’re the best for cutting keys. There are also locksmiths that will come to you to do it, and are probably a better choice, but for 5$ at ace hardware I’ll take the risk. Haha

No worries. I just like to see the proof in the pudding.

I honestly expected the locksmith to be more expensive. Surprisingly, it cost me $4 and change for the cut keys and $2.18 for the blank. Also worth mentioning, they had a stack of blanks available. I visited the aforementioned Ace, two Home Depots and two Lowe’s (5 stores total) and came out with 3 blanks that, apparently, aren’t right. C’est la vie!

 

[curt-s]

Picked up a couple things. Subaru alt wire boot, and a 10an 45 because I had to resituate my oil cooler. My latest dry bumper fit told bad tales
Now I need a 45 off the ofh
Shit these things are expensive. $25 for that fitting. And I've got a dozen various now

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Also, realized a didn't have tran/tcase/diff drain crush washers nor tb elbow gaskets.
Talked with FP and ordered a couple of their crush gaskets for the turbine outlet. That should take care of the gaps.

Looking for its first startup mid next week

 

[DSMPT]

Went to the States side to pick up the replacement fuel pump. Fuelab couldn't repair my old one since they have no replacement parts anymore.
I upgraded the pump to have a bit more flow since I am planning to blend more methanol. I will see how this pump would work. The old one didn't have a long life so. But it seems the new revision comes with a lifetime warranty instead of 2 years that it used to come with, and they told me the latest revision is much more reliable than older revisions. I realized that the spec sheet now says Prodigy II, not just Prodigy, so something is different internally.

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[pauleyman]

Today was a pretty good day. Got the pistons cleaned up and head/intake on. Lots of degreasing. Brian @19Eclipse90 stopped by to visit and assist. Big thanks for reminding me 2g is 11mm head bolts before i shoved my 12mm tap into the block.

 

[RamenPride]

Replaced the driver's side brake caliper yesterday, finished by replacing the passenger side caliper today. Just my luck that one piston on each side (dual piston calipers) seized around the same time. $80 for both on Amazon, no core charge. Kept the old ones to rebuild and keep as spares.

Also noticed my clutch fluid was low. Hoping it was a leaking slave, but of course it's the master. I know it's actually not that hard to replace because I've done it before, but that was almost 20 years ago! Should be fun...

 

[92AWDHX40]

Got some welding done on my radiator almost ready to tune next weekedn.

 

[Bigmike4g63t]

I didn't technically do anything, but Justin sent me pics of my finished turbo setup.

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[dsmmario]

I didn't technically do anything, but Justin sent me pics of my finished turbo setup.

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Bastard 20g?

 

[Bigmike4g63t]

Bastard 20g?

Yes sir!!!

 

[b00zt3d spyd3r]

Yes sir!!!

He built mine too amd I'm loving it so far

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[Bigmike4g63t]

Looks great!

 

[pksystems]

Pressure tested my coolant system with a boost leak tester, and it seems to be holding air better, but still leaking. I'm pretty sure it's fine. It's supposed to be water tight, not air tight??

Reinstalled my power steering pump and noticed that it's way too loose with 4pk700 belt. I believe it's because of a mix and match of 6 bolt, and JDM brackets/pumps. Time to track down a 4Pk675 belt.

 

[gdb1039]

Got bored, decided to do a cold air intake. Not expecting any real power gains but it was fun and I had most of the parts sitting in bins already.

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[curt-s]

Got bored, decided to do a cold air intake. Not expecting any real power gains but it was fun and I had most of the parts sitting in bins already.

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That's something I'd like to eventually do too. I'm a little addicted to the sound an eight inch filter makes, though. Sounds like you're going to suck in wildlife and small humans.

What did I do? I forgot the cover plate that goes behind the driver side motor mount.
Not a fun thing when the engine is in the car but not impossible. Just time consuming. I was hoping to have the car done today but now I'm just waiting 15min on the new tbelt tension so I doubt I will get everything done.

As @CrackedDSM warned me, AC bracket with a cyclone will prove challenging.

 

[CrackedDSM]

That's something I'd like to eventually do too. I'm a little addicted to the sound an eight inch filter makes, though. Sounds like you're going to suck in wildlife and small humans.

What did I do? I forgot the cover plate that goes behind the driver side motor mount.
Not a fun thing when the engine is in the car but not impossible. Just time consuming. I was hoping to have the car done today but now I'm just waiting 15min on the new tbelt tension so I doubt I will get everything done.

As @CrackedDSM warned me, AC bracket with a cyclone will prove challenging.

You'll have to sacrifice one of the mounting tabs on the bottom of the plenum/runners that the OEM Cyclone coil pack mounts on, sadly. And the IM bracket itself will have to be "notched". But it's possible! God help you with those lower IM bolts though.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Thanks for the reports on the issues. It is valuable information!

 

[CrackedDSM]

Thanks for the reports on the issues. It is valuable information!

I do know SOME things. Just don’t ever ask me anything about ECMLink.

 

[pksystems]

Took out my 4pk700 power steering belt that was too loose, and managed to get a 4pk665 on by walking it onto the pulley. It's the best fit I could find without spending a fortune.

Installed my turbo oil return. Slip on hose barb fitting on bottom of turbo seems like a good idea till you realize ~3" of hose doesn't flex that much. . I might look into some heat wrap to protect that rubber line from heat.

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