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Received my replacement transmission from Japan today. It’s the correct W5M33-2-WQFE designation for an Evo 1 RS with factory front LSD - I’ve waited two years to find one, and didn’t even have confirmation it was correct when I bought it. The car had 47,000 km on the odometer (roughly the same as my Evo), so fingers crossed it’s good. It certainly looks good on the outside. This is such a relief to have again.

Might drop a Ralliart LSD in it anyway, why not? It arrived yesterday, too.

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Received my replacement transmission from Japan today. It’s the correct W5M33-2-WQFE designation for an Evo 1 RS with factory front LSD - I’ve waited two years to find one, and didn’t even have confirmation it was correct when I bought it. The car had 47,000 km on the odometer (roughly the same as my Evo), so fingers crossed it’s good. It certainly looks good on the outside. This is such a relief to have again.

Might drop a Ralliart LSD in it anyway, why not? It arrived yesterday, too.

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Where/how did you find that??? Nice score!
 
Where/how did you find that??? Nice score!
This is going to sound ridiculous, but over the years I compiled the data on every Evo 1-3 into an Excel spreadsheet of what trim (GSR/RS) each VIN was, what color, what option code, etc. I put together a list of the serial numbers of every Evo 1 with factory front LSD like mine had, and narrowed down by the option variables for cars with the WQFE. It ended up being a short list of matching cars, but I waited for one of them to be parted out in Japan. I saw a really nice, low mileage Evo 1 RS being parted out a few months ago, but the wrecker is notoriously uncooperative and wouldn't send any more pictures of the items or cough up the VIN, so I had to run a test and buy an axle from the car, and have it shipped in. The driver's side axle (USDM passenger's side) has a different axle cup based on whether it's an LSD trans or not, and it is necessary to have if you run the viscous front LSD (and nearly impossible to find). The spline depth on the axle measured out to match the LSD, so I combined the clues and figured this car was probably on my list. The transmission was for sale for ~4 months, since the wrecker sets the price of their transmissions at like $4,500 to open, and drops a few dollars every week. I obviously wanted to pay the right price, but it was an anxious few months since anyone could've taken it away at any moment if they were willing to throw money around. Being a nerd has its perks sometimes.
 
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This is going to sound ridiculous, but over the years I compiled the data on every Evo 1-3 into an Excel spreadsheet of what trim (GSR/RS) each VIN was, what color, what option code, etc. I put together a list of the serial numbers of every Evo 1 with factory front LSD like mine had, and narrowed down by the option variables for cars with the WQFE. It ended up being a short list of matching cars, but I waited for one of them to be parted out in Japan. I saw a really nice, low mileage Evo 1 RS being parted out a few months ago, but the wrecker is notoriously uncooperative and wouldn't send any more pictures of the items or cough up the VIN, so I had to run a test and buy an axle from the car, and have it shipped in. The driver's side axle (USDM passenger's side) has a different axle cup based on whether it's an LSD trans or not, and it is necessary to have if you run the viscous front LSD (and nearly impossible to find). The spline depth on the axle measured out to match the LSD, so I combined the clues and figured this car was probably on my list. The transmission was for sale for ~4 months, since the wrecker sets the price of their transmissions at like $4,500 to open, and drops a few dollars every week. I obviously wanted to pay the right price, but it was an anxious few months since anyone could've taken it away at any moment if they were willing to throw money around. Being a nerd has its perks sometimes.
*slow clap*

I applaud your commitment sir.
 
Spent over 8 hours trying to true up this JM Fab externally wastegated o2 housing flange and I give up.

Finally threw up a hail Mary and torqued down the gasket (OEM stamped steel) to 50 in the hopes it would crush a bit to take out the gaps but nope. There's a gap everywhere there isn't a bolt hole.

The surprising bit? The FP turbine housing also has low spots. Not as many but it's also not perfectly flat.

Beyond disappointed with this, as it's the nail in the coffin on the car this year. I had the ability to get the rest of the car together by end of weekend for a break in and season send off but instead spent two two important days screwing with this thing and still made no progress.

Temps are due to plummet now, no more warm weather.

Less than .0015in but still too much.

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Spent over 8 hours trying to true up this JM Fab externally wastegated o2 housing flange and I give up.

Finally threw up a hail Mary and torqued down the gasket (OEM stamped steel) to 50 in the hopes it would crush a bit to take out the gaps but nope. There's a gap everywhere there isn't a bolt hole.

The surprising bit? The FP turbine housing also has low spots. Not as many but it's also not perfectly flat.

Beyond disappointed with this, as it's the nail in the coffin on the car this year. I had the ability to get the rest of the car together by end of weekend for a break in and season send off but instead spent two two important days screwing with this thing and still made no progress.

Temps are due to plummet now, no more warm weather.

Less than .0015in but still too much.

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Jesus, man. Maybe take it to a machine shop?
 
Spent over 8 hours trying to true up this JM Fab externally wastegated o2 housing flange and I give up.

Finally threw up a hail Mary and torqued down the gasket (OEM stamped steel) to 50 in the hopes it would crush a bit to take out the gaps but nope. There's a gap everywhere there isn't a bolt hole.

The surprising bit? The FP turbine housing also has low spots. Not as many but it's also not perfectly flat.

Beyond disappointed with this, as it's the nail in the coffin on the car this year. I had the ability to get the rest of the car together by end of weekend for a break in and season send off but instead spent two two important days screwing with this thing and still made no progress.

Temps are due to plummet now, no more warm weather.

Less than .0015in but still too much.

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I always belt sand flanges flat because of warpage from welding. You can even spray paint it as a guide coat if you need to.

Takes 5 min to guarantee a flat finish this way.

Are you sure its flange and not the turbo casting? You can sand both for proper mating.

Sorry bro, if you were closer Id flatten it for you!
 
Got a ton done today.

Pulled off the lower timing cover to retrieve a dropped bolt, pulled the oil pressure relief spring and swapped it with my shorter/softer mirage one, painted the upper timing cover and D/S engine mount(it was rusty and flaky. Bleh.) Replaced the crank bolts and lower timing cover bolts with actual bolts(previous owner had a huge hard-on for allen headed bolts and I have no idea why. He even used them on the intake manifold.), and swapped in my new radiator after destroyed the other brand new one by rushing and not being patient.

Got her burped and running again. Just waiting on the cam gear cover and D/S mount to dry overnight, then I'll take a nice test drive. Stoked though. Bit by bit the car returns to new. Lol.

Oh, and I swapped my taillight bulbs with LED units. They also work on the front blinkers without rapid fire blinking and are a nice level of bright. Here's a pic for comparison. (these bulbs are amber tinted and it was as bright as the surface of the sun outside, keep that in mind. If I got the clear/white bulbs they'd be even brighter).

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Left is LED, right is OEM/Halogen.

I like them so much I'm gonna order some to replace the front and rear blinkers too.
 

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I'm making progress, slowly. Stuff is so greasy I just keep taking parts off. Just as well as it took 20 min to get the water pump gasket off. There was no getting under it. Got head dowels out and block surface prepped. If you haven't tried them I really like lisle carbide scrapers. Better than a razor blade. Got 2 of the 3 oil pump seals done. Cleaned up all the greasy brackets. Hopefully putting parts on tomorrow.
 
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Bought 4 new tires, had them balanced and mounted, ofc. Tested out the new to her engine. Took her for a test drive. She lacks power for some reason, no CEL.

Faulty injectors? Maybe. Disconnected fuel injector connector(s)? Maybe. Faulty FPR? Maybe. Faulty fuel pump? Maybe. Boost leak? Maybe. Improperly gapped spark plugs? Maybe. Faulty coil pack(s)? Maybe. Faulty throttle body? Maybe. Improperly installed throttle cable? Maybe. Clogged fuel filter? Maybe. Clogged air filter? Maybe. Faulty MAP sensor? Maybe. TPS faulty? Maybe. BOV faulty? Maybe. Wastegate faulty? Maybe. Improper boost connection or setting? Big maybe. Faulty downstream O2 sensor? Maybe. Faulty turbo? Maybe.

The TPS, MAP sensor, fuel filter, fuel pump, FPR, spark plugs, spark plug wires, coil packs, and Upstream O2 sensor, are brand new. That doesn't mean that the issue couldn't be tied to one of these parts.

I'm seriously thinking the turbo is the issue, since it came with the used engine. All forums I've read on this site have just increased the list of possible problems. Meh.
 
Jesus, man. Maybe take it to a machine shop
I'm going to have to do something of the sort, I just had such a shitty deal this year with shops that I thought I could get this running by end of this long weekend. Next week temps are basically half, as it's been unnaturally warm.
I didn't want to deal with sub-15C startups, but I guess that's not too bad.


I always belt sand flanges flat because of warpage from welding. You can even spray paint it as a guide coat if you need to.

Takes 5 min to guarantee a flat finish this way.

Are you sure its flange and not the turbo casting? You can sand both for proper mating.

Sorry bro, if you were closer Id flatten it for you!

I only have a 4" belt sander which makes you hold the housing sideways. With the belt's seam, it ends up cutting a channel down the center of the belt.


Even the FP housing has surface imperfections that will cause a sealing issue. Both have to be fixed but the JMF unit is everywhere between bolt holes

I've blown Composite gaskets apart in the past, so I wanted to stick with stamped steel.

As an indicator I usually use a sharpie to colour the surface then give it a pass or two on 320+ grit, just to see where it removes material.

When I first started, you could rock the housing back and forth, it had a tremendous high spot in the center. I got rid of that but just can't seem to get 'er home by hand.

Honestly, I just surprised/a bit shocked. My old Megan Racing recirc O2 housing had less problems. It still had a gap, but only near the downpipe connection where the large weld is. Clearly that warped the flange from the heat and the same with the JM Fab, except it's also everywhere near a weld. I talked to Jim about it but I doubt I'm going to send it that way.

Given I'm external wastegate now, I have no choice but to use a housing such as this. Switching to an internal gate hotside would cost nearly ~$1k all said and done (I checked with FP on that some time back).
 
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Here’s my quarterly sporadic posting. I finally got the engine pulled to do a BS delete. Found the BS gear wobbling around while changing the water pump and timing components a while back. Just now found the time and had a little help from a buddy. Also found today both front struts/knuckle mounts were crack dang near in half so gotta get those replaced while I’m at it.

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Glad to be back on the road after swapping the power steering rack and installing poly sway bar bushings. I went to a Hayden 1011 4-pass cooler where the fog light would be buy bending up some metal. . The steering is so much more responsive without slop with the new rack and rod ends. Just need to reset the steering wheel angle and install some poly control arm bushings before getting it aligned.

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Tossed on the newly painted D/S Engine Mount and Cam Gear Cover. Black was a great choice, I think at least.

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The mount was so flaky and rusty, I can't even describe it.

After that, I finally...FINALLY got rid of the champagne stripes on the doors. Lol. They were unpainted sections hiding underneath the OEM trim, so I fixed it with a rattlecan. Which matches the rest of the cars paint, which was just a rattlecan job anyway.

Before

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After

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So much better I think. I'll eventually paint and mount the new trim pieces I have laying around, but in the short term this satisfies my OCD. Super happy.


Also did some tweaking and tuning, so if anyone could hop on my build thread and check out my log/offer advice on MAFcomp(there, not here in this thread)...a brother would appreciate it.
 

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Went and picked clean a 1gb non turbo that was rotted out. Added a full interior to the parts shed.

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Went and picked clean a 1gb non turbo that was rotted out. Added a full interior to the parts shed.

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Where did you get that spark plug cover. I need one immediately.
 
Found both my new 6851S and JM Fab o2 housing as well as my B16G + cast housing both have some pretty terrible leakage between bolt holes with a SS gasket.

Are older style composite crush gaskets even available anymore, especially for an Evo3-sized turbine outlet?

I haven't seen any in ages but FP is recommending I run one of those.

Everywhere I see it's SS so, my second question is, how many of us are actually leaking right now? Anybody shove a flashlight up the outlet to see if the surfaces actually have leaks all over around our stamped gaskets?
 
Yanked the stock fuel hardlines and put in some cheap PTFE 6AN lines and fittings for fuel feed and return (added another bulkhead at the pump housing).
Swapped to the evo siphon. I reallllllly hope I don't continue to have fuel pressure issues (not rising 1:1, testing perfect with shop air & manual adjustment, etc) with a new Walbro 450 HP pump (the 274). We shall see, tbd.
 
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