For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Running into the same issue, oil supply line banjo bolt was defective, in other words the previous owner must've used a banjo bolt that was broken and they attempted to overtorque it so it didn't leak instead of just buying a new one. I'll snug it up tomorrow to make sure it doesn't leak but, it's installed with new crush washers so a 1/4 turn or less is all it needs.
What is/was it?
oil squirter
What kind of sound? Was it checked for clearance of both piston and crank lobe during install, and it shifted/bent in use?
That ranks up there with the missing TOB retainer clip. I feel ya
Yes I checked for clearance on assembly, they were all close but a small margin of room. I think it might have shifted slightly, it only left a tiny mark on the piston.
Squirter was #3, broken pin was on #4
Was the squirter under that particular piston? I see a scratch in about the right place, just wondering if the wrist pin going is what caused it to tap the squirter enough to break the brazed joint
Basically I want to quell my own concerns
Holy shit, man! That is crazy it snapped in half!
I don't know what you're talking about, it looks fine!
Was it still running with that broken pin Jason? I am running .250 wall pins and yours look very stout. If it was STILL running, I say count your blessings! Things could have gotten VERY EXPENSIVE.
IIRC, it has a 20lb spring in it now. I may need to buy the complete spring kit. We'll see.
Yes it was running fine, oil pressure was perfect. It sounded like a rod bearing but having perfect pressure, even checking my log, nothing was off. I even started it up in the pits again. Agreed, it could have gone very bad. Right now I'm out a piston and the rod needs to be repaired, I'll count my blessing.
that turbine housing is not oem thats why as the OEM 16g turbine housing used an R clip not an external C clip like the T25 does, so the kinugawa would of fitting to the OEM turbine housing, even the casting and actuator flapper arm is not OEM. so no idea what housing you got thereSO, WHAT DID I DO TODAY....I modded an expensive WG to work with all of the TD05 turbos by making one gate out of two. One stocker was broken and the Kinugawa gate had too small of a hole for the WG flapper arm. I cut, rebent and threaded a portion of the Kinugawa gates arm to work perfectly by adding the end arm of the original gate and now i can change springs if i want to. I only have one stock frame turbo car, at the moment, but I will be using this on it when we stab a new motor into it.
Marty
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
this is a problem and i dont know why after so many years they still get it wrong! you can use the fronts in the OEM rear bracket also which i found odd as their rear bracket sucks balls and is the worst design going! It is also why i hate energy suspension bushes full stop, their design and logic never tie up and it's a shame prothane stopped 1g bushes as that would have been the choice to go with
Well Bobby, I have 3 of them and no aftermarket hotsides. My 14b has the same one (or looking at it anyway). The aftermarket gate worked but I had to grind down the actuator pin on the turbo I took it from so the new gates arm hole would fit over it (4-5 years ago).
