What did you do to your DSM today?

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I changed my wideband sensor to an ACTUAL BOSCH unit and the car reacted with a "thank you", since now she doesn't die if I rev her and let her come back to idle.
Off brand O2 sensors, don't waste your $ or time. Do it once, do it right.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Intstallled my rear weather strip it was mint, working on my radiator set up with an lines this week, installing door cards.

 

[AWDGrayBird]

Well ported the OFH housing hope it is enough to bring down my 105psi at 6400rpms. Don't want to push it to far and lose the housing. Thoughts?
Stock spring left and low pressure spring on the right from Extreme.

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[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Well ported the OFH housing hope it is enough to bring down my 105psi at 6400rpms. Don't want to push it to far and lose the housing. Thoughts?
Stock spring left and low pressure spring on the right from Extreme.

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Let's BOTH figure out the issue. I am in the same situation on a fresh motor, maybe 100 miles. I need to lower mine from about the same pressure. 30 hot idle. 92 cold idle that increases with rpm.

 

[CrackedDSM]

I mean, is it stupid to suggest drilling a pinhole in the BS bearings over the oiling holes that are now blocked? I know leaving them wide open is bad...but if we need more relief, why not do that? The OEM system is designed to bleed off a set amount of pressure over the BS'...why not mimic that by drilling a hole to allow it to bleed off the same?

 

[curt-s]

Basically, create a 5th oil squirter
You only get one shot at the BS bearing hole before you have to tear a lot apart again.
At least with the OFH you can do it with (almost) everything still together. Just need a few OFH gaskets.

On my first OFH, I ported even a bit more aggressively than above, exposing a bit more of the skirt just above the hole, and still end up with 100psi cold/warm. My pressure sensor was tee'd off the stock 6bolt water housing and I would get 75psi before 3k rpm and basically peg 85-95 to redline above that hot. I have never had a dsm yet that did 18+10/1k rpm.

My 2g, which I never touched until now, did the same thing. Pressure sensor off the unfiltered side, 18 hot idle and 75 before 4k with an unported OFH.

 

[AWDGrayBird]

I am curious what they deleted ... If they meant they got rid of the front balance shaft belt then they are correct. SMH

I am confused why my oil pressure would be that high, with balance shafts still in place.

 

[DSMPT]

my 105psi at 6400rpms.

IMO, it's not too high. Do not port the OFH too much. If your crankcase pressure is high, that may be causing the oil pressure gauge showing higher but not the actual pressure.

Just a little known info here. Non turbo OFHs have an extra oil drain hole before the pressure relief valve.

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[92Turbski]

So upon further investigation and lots of Internet searching the Redline lightweight shockproof comes blue and milky out of the bottle. They call it "smurfs blood". Nissan and subi guys use it in their transmissions to quiet them down.

Before this I talked Tim at TMZ and he recommended 75w140NS for the transmission and Heavyweight shock proof for the T-Case and Diff.
I am waiting on parts to do all the work but I am not near as concerned as I was before but have already ordered a new breather from Extreme.

Nice. I'll have to give the shockproof a try as the *crosstalk* between the transfer case and rear diff on decel is CLATTERY, and annoying as hell. Especially with an aluminum driveshaft. Mind you, these are freshly built pieces with less than 2k miles as well.
Sounds like the breather will solve your moisture problem.

 

[19Eclipse90]

IMO, it's not too high. Do not port the OFH too much. If your crankcase pressure is high, that may be causing the oil pressure gauge showing higher but not the actual pressure.

Just a little known info here. Non turbo OFHs have an extra oil drain hole before the pressure relief valve.

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My memory may not be what it used to be, but I was under the impression that was only on forward facing housings. Clearly not, considering your picture proves otherwise. I didn’t bother looking at the standard non-turbo housing I recently installed on my car. I think that “FFOFH important information” thread led me to that mindset. (Direct link not supplied because the thread was a dumpster fire.)

Now I wonder if it is just a 6-bolt thing as at least the one 7-bolt non-turbo housing I checked this morning does not appear to have anything like that, correlating with the information in that other thread.

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[MacMarty15221]

Where did you find one? I thought even the aftermarket units were scarce.

Wait, what? Aren't there enough parts cars around? I'd gladly give you a 1G windshield, but ....

 

[1cleangsx]

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Got my new valve cover installed

 

[pauleyman]

Wait, what? Aren't there enough parts cars around? I'd gladly give you a 1G windshield, but ....

Parts car windshields are still old. Sometimes you need a new part.

 

[DreamChaser7]

Wait, what? Aren't there enough parts cars around? I'd gladly give you a 1G windshield, but ....

I would doubt there are many in great condition. And the a windshield guy who removed mine had to destroy it to get it out. Old urethane was rock hard and unable to be cut through with any traditional method.

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Got my new valve cover installed

Man those look good. Can’t wait to see mine installed one day. Did you clear anodize it by any chance?

 

[1cleangsx]

Man those look good. Can’t wait to see mine installed one day. Did you clear anodize it by any chance?

No Sir, that’s just the bare finish right out of the box

 

[DreamChaser7]

No Sir, that’s just the bare finish right out of the box

Yah that’s how I plan to install mine, but someone a while back on here suggested clearing it or it would fade over time. I’m still not sure if I would need to specify only doing the outside, or if they did the whole thing if it would have any negative effect on the internals?

 

[AWDGrayBird]

Well finally got all the tools to finish fixing the stripped T-Case bolt holes. I do not recommend the adjustable tap socket set... It is not even close to center when using a drill, lucky I noticed before hand. Had to do it all with a ratchet.

Forgot to take pics at each step cause it was going well .

The drill bit is 31/64 the the counterbore worked perfectly, getting the threads straight was a whole lot of fun even with a tap guide for 14mm.

Drill and Tap guide worked great from Big Gator.
Used 2 little 50lb clamps to hold the guides in place why I did my work.

The last step getting the sert in was pretty dang easy, oil the driver and start the first few threads and the driver slightly out of round to lock the sert in place once it loosens up back it out and you're done.

And a little surprise on the small stripped bolt.

Everything is torqued to spec with no issues. Wish I knew about these long ago, heli coils are trash in comparison.

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[curt-s]

Not a damn thing done to it.
But it made me very aware that it is happy to be cursed and cause me nothing but stress and aggravation.

 

[DSMPT]

that was only on forward facing housings.

Not only the FFOFH, but yes probably the forward facing OFH should be the most common one that people see it. Because it's the most common non turbo OFH that have been used in DSM as modification. I had been looking for a turbo FFOFH and I finally got one, and it doesn't have the hole.

Now I wonder if it is just a 6-bolt thing as at least the one 7-bolt non-turbo housing I checked this morning does not appear to have anything like that, correlating with the information in that other thread.

And yes, sorry I didn't clarify that I was speaking as it's based on 6 bolt. This design is from the late 70s ~ early/mid 80s like G62B/63B that is directly related to 6 bolt and sharing some design between them. So I'm not so sure about 7 bolt but I guess that Mitsubishi canceled it when they revised the engine design and went to 7 bolt. I think I still have a couple of 1g 7 bolt non turbo OFHs laying around somewhere in the garage. I'm almost positive that they have no hole but I should confirm it, too.

 

[pksystems]

Used an old sharpie and some tape to turn my drill press into a lathe.

Converted an old push lok fitting into hose barb for my turbo oil drain. Much easier to undo then an-10 fitting on bottom of turbo.

Cut some oil drain gaskets from felpro gasket sheets.

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[TerminalTalon]

I think I got all of it . Body is too bent, rusted etc. might even take the windshield out

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[DreamChaser7]

I think I got all of it . Body is too bent, rusted etc. might even take the windshield out

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Dash?

 

[CrackedDSM]

Did some prodding and poking with the lighting system since the car is non-operational waiting for a new radiator.

Fixed the lighting issues and pop-up issues that arose thanks to advice from Tuners via the search function. So that was nice.


Pro-Tip: Keep your hinges and pivot points lubed with WD40 or a Rust Penetrant like PB Blaster. Pass. headlight would pop up, but not down. Sprayed the hell out of it, and like magic it fixed it.

 

[AWDGrayBird]

She is alive and all back together and idles great. Only leak I have found so far was the stupid pressure line on the power steering... Seals are in great shape I think I fixed it the banjo bolt was about a 16th of a turn loose.

Going to throw the wheel and heat shields back on and take her for a spin. My oil pressure at idle went up to 15-16 from 11-13 so a little confused on that front.

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[AWDGrayBird]

Success.... 86-87 PSI at 7100 just by porting the OFH relief valve. I didn't use the lower pressure spring. No more burning oil

New water pump and timing belt looking good.

The 75w-140ns that Tim recommended makes the transmission shift so nicely along with the new JXB street carriers. It drives super nice.

Just need to address the small PS leak before it drips and toasts my New 90amp alt.