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Check your breather bulb on the top of the tcase. Many overlook this and the sealing gasket material (a Mopar sealant but I use 3M 08001 now) stops doing its job and allows water in. You may have caught it early. Mine looked considerably worse, there was corrosion in place of any sealant and the heavyweight shockproof filled by the POs "mechanic" came out red/gray milky. They never checked the bulb seal.

Fortunately the bearings and races still looked great.
I will check that when she comes out on Monday. Get to install 2 time-serts in the transmission where I got little or no threads in those 2 holes.
 
I will check that when she comes out on Monday. Get to install 2 time-serts in the transmission where I got little or no threads in those 2 holes.


Document your process and how it goes. The helicoil I used to try to fix mine failed. The case material is made of like...gum wrapper.
 
I took the wheels I got from Vic @92AWDHX40 at the shootout to have them blasted and powdercoated. I'd decided on Goldtatsic. They turned out AWESOME!

Changed the oil, noticed a torn CV boot.
Torqued the wheels down and headed for cars and coffee at the old subaru dealer!

Get em out there and driving. 🤘
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It'd be driving right now if I could get that turbo oil cooler lines to stop shooting oil out of the top banjo bolt...that and find out, with both the new battery and alternator being tested that the vehicle still needs a jump every morning.

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Finally did a test drive on the coilovers now that I've properly set the preload according to Megan Racing's instructions at the behest of a knowledgeable dude on fecesbook, and WOW what a difference in ride quality. The passenger side rear coilover had like 10mm of preload on it, so resetting that and matching its height to it's 3 siblings made a legitimate night and day difference. It's like a different car on coilovers. Ride is more firm, but not in a brutal way. It hugs the road and corners, steering is sharp and responsive. Completely in love.
 
Finally did a test drive on the coilovers now that I've properly set the preload according to Megan Racing's instructions at the behest of a knowledgeable dude on fecesbook, and WOW what a difference in ride quality. The passenger side rear coilover had like 10mm of preload on it, so resetting that and matching its height to it's 3 siblings made a legitimate night and day difference. It's like a different car on coilovers. Ride is more firm, but not in a brutal way. It hugs the road and corners, steering is sharp and responsive. Completely in love.
Care to share those instructions?? DM me if it's more convenient for you.
 
Care to share those instructions?? DM me if it's more convenient for you.


He basically stated to set the preload according to the instructions from the manufacturer. For Megan specifically they recommend zero preload(other manufacturers say like 5mm, or specify a certain amount which you measure the spring with no load/loose, then compress it by that much. So if the spring is like 80mm long, "5mm" of preload means you tighten the spring perch until the spring measures 75mm). Which is to loosen the spring perch, and tighten it until it touches the spring. You don't want the spring compressed, but you don't want to be able to move it up and down either. You should be able to spin the spring with some effort. Not STRUGGLE to spin the spring, but also not be able to spin it with a feather.


His explanation was too much preload takes away/reduces how much the shock and spring combo can travel. Which makes it way more prone to "acting funny" in his words. Which in my case was the rear of the car getting literally airborne/bouncing into the air when the slightest dip was hit at greater than 20mph. Someone tried adjusting the ride height via the spring perch instead of the actual threaded part/height adjuster of the coilover.

By setting preload to 0, now the shock/spring has the full length of travel. Ride height was adjusted using the actual height adjuster, and as a result it rides like a dream. Nice and firm, but enough give to hit bumps and it not get airborne.
 
Got bloody Sunday battling the pinch bolt onto the reman BBB rack I bought from Rock Auto. Will be putting in Energy Suspension sway bushings during the reassembly. Those are usually a good time from what I remember.

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Dialed the tune in a little more and it helped drivability a ton. Still needs more tweaking down low(1000-1800rpm range) as it still likes to buck a tiny bit, but honestly it's night and day. Got the AFRest and wideband to match at idle pretty spectacularly. Drove it like a solid 35-40 minutes because I filled it with radiator flush solution and degreaser, got home and let it cool a bit.


Went to loosen the drain plug on the radiator and without even a tiny *tink* sound, the head of the bolt fell to the ground and the mangled remains were left in the radiator.


Tried valiantly to get it out but honestly...this radiator is like 12+ years old, ridiculously full of rust, and is just old and rough. Already got a new one on the way. :D


Anyone want to own a piece of AMS Talon history in the form of the mishimoto radiator with a broken drain plug? Lol.
 
White Talon I was restoring passed its inspection today! ZERO issues (as if a full resto underneath was going to bring up any problems) LOL

Goes back to the owner this weekend and then onto the next small phases for him.
 
Finally got tired of looking through the cracks and all the scratches in my windshield and got it replaced. No more looking like I'm driving with a dirty windshield, it was bad
Where did you find one? I thought even the aftermarket units were scarce.
 
Check your breather bulb on the top of the tcase. Many overlook this and the sealing gasket material (a Mopar sealant but I use 3M 08001 now) stops doing its job and allows water in. You may have caught it early. Mine looked considerably worse, there was corrosion in place of any sealant and the heavyweight shockproof filled by the POs "mechanic" came out red/gray milky. They never checked the bulb seal.

Fortunately the bearings and races still looked great.
So upon further investigation and lots of Internet searching the Redline lightweight shockproof comes blue and milky out of the bottle. They call it "smurfs blood". Nissan and subi guys use it in their transmissions to quiet them down.

Before this I talked Tim at TMZ and he recommended 75w140NS for the transmission and Heavyweight shock proof for the T-Case and Diff.
I am waiting on parts to do all the work but I am not near as concerned as I was before but have already ordered a new breather from Extreme.
 
Got the better half to help me unload the car off the trailer, her 5'0" stature in the kirky setup for my 6'1" frame is amusing ROFL

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My wife looks the same. For such a small car it completely swallows her. Shes 5'3 and all you can see is her tiny head. Its like... "so we're just letting 8 year olds drive cars now?" 😅
 
Just pulled the trans because TOB is toast and it grinds trying to get into only second gear and its slipping out-of second gear when it does go in, there's no resistance/no engine bog when I try to push it into second without using the clutch so I'm pretty sure the syncro for second is also toast😭
 
Just pulled the trans because TOB is toast and it grinds trying to get into only second gear and its slipping out-of second gear when it does go in, there's no resistance/no engine bog when I try to push it into second without using the clutch so I'm pretty sure the syncro for second is also toast😭
You won't be able to do that even with a bad synchro. You will hit the sleeve teeth and grind. If you can slide it into 2nd with no resistance and only 2nd and nothing happens then something is broken. Is it actually in gear when you do this? Or just seems like it is because shifter moves but it's not actually in gear. More info please. What happened?
 
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So upon further investigation and lots of Internet searching the Redline lightweight shockproof comes blue and milky out of the bottle. They call it "smurfs blood". Nissan and subi guys use it in their transmissions to quiet them down.

Before this I talked Tim at TMZ and he recommended 75w140NS for the transmission and Heavyweight shock proof for the T-Case and Diff.
I am waiting on parts to do all the work but I am not near as concerned as I was before but have already ordered a new breather from Extreme.


I put lightweight shockproof in my tcase and rear diff. I wouldn't really call it MILKY, but it's definitely a lighter blue. I call it alien blood, so it's funny people on the net call it smurfs blood.
 
So upon further investigation and lots of Internet searching the Redline lightweight shockproof comes blue and milky out of the bottle. They call it "smurfs blood". Nissan and subi guys use it in their transmissions to quiet them down.

Before this I talked Tim at TMZ and he recommended 75w140NS for the transmission and Heavyweight shock proof for the T-Case and Diff.
I am waiting on parts to do all the work but I am not near as concerned as I was before but have already ordered a new breather from Extreme.

Depends on what you mean by 'milky'. It starts sky blue and if it has any white streaks in it, that's likely moisture. I'd still check/reseal that bulb.

When I drained by tcase of heavyweight, this is what I got. The bulb had no seal and a lot of corrosion and dirt buildup right in the bulb hole. That's what I call milky.
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Like @CrackedDSM, I opted for lightweight this time around as I'm not running big power and it flows well, and MT90 in the box with the shifty things and a dab of MTL. Not quite MT85, more like MT88 LOL
 

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Been driven it every day. Love it.
Since the crank sensor took a dump on the grey spyder on the highway.
Perfect time for a pic tho!

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