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Got my shortblock back on friday evening and been wrenching like a madman to try and get the long block done so i can drop it in. Block is 85% done. This was as off 1 this morning. Hopefully by tomorrow i can drop this thing in.

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Your alternator tensioner bracket is upside-down...
 
Took the car to Radwood PNW this last weekend after a few frantic evenings of cleaning and prep, much of which was for nothing because it was raining all day but oh well. There were two 1Gs there and we both had the same color combo which I thought was hilarious since the blue/gray with white interior seems to be a fairly uncommon combo.

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One weird thing did pop up on the way home though: the clutch doesn't seem to be releasing all the way? I had to drive very carefully because as soon as the car went into the boost the clutch would slip as if it's not quite released fully. It's a brand new Southbend kevlar so I doubt there is anything wrong with the clutch itself. I haven't had a chance to dig into it yet, but it seems to be the opposite issue that most people deal with which is the clutch not disengaging all the way. I'm going to start by making sure the master cylinder is properly adjusted, anything else I should consider too?

Okay, before I go and pull the transmission, am I missing anything? I checked the clutch adjustment this weekend everything is adjusted correctly and the clutch fork does not have any pressure on it when the pedal is released so that (should) mean the clutch is fully clamped down yet it is still slipping in 3rd through 5th when accelerating. It looks like I might have a small leak from the rear main seal, but that I doubt that would have ended up on the clutch disk.
 
Okay, before I go and pull the transmission, am I missing anything? I checked the clutch adjustment this weekend everything is adjusted correctly and the clutch fork does not have any pressure on it when the pedal is released so that (should) mean the clutch is fully clamped down yet it is still slipping in 3rd through 5th when accelerating. It looks like I might have a small leak from the rear main seal, but that I doubt that would have ended up on the clutch disk.
When you say no pressure on the fork are you saying you can push the slave back into its bore?
 
I got my arp headstuds put in, and now I'm gonna toss in new axle seals. Miller tool MD-998325 is gonna make it a breeze! This tool will set to the perfect depth and no damage to the seal 😎

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Replaced the throttle cable bracket, throttle cable, cruise control cable. Finally got new spark plug cover bolts, complete with the rubber seals to prevent the cover from rattling like so many probably do.

I also traced the battery/alternator harness from the alternator to the battery and starter and I think the battery ground is the cause for the battery draining overnight, since it was frayed and basically disconnected. New alternator, new battery, I think the only other thing that could be the issue is a faulty alternator relay. I'll test it tomorrow.
 
What is the step height?
It's an ACT streetlite, so I'm guessing it's stock (.610).

Ah ha. Maybe I just need to drive it some more, I guess kevlar takes a lot longer to break in. This guy had an identical clutch/flywheel combo and was having the same issue.

 
(long ago) Not thinking much about it, I sprayed my nearly new throw-out bearing with brakleen to remove a little clutch dust. First time I pushed in the clutch, I knew I had made a mistake :oops: Since it took me months to drop the trans, wait for Jack's rebuild to show up and get it installed, I decided to just live with the noise, since I didn't drive it much anyway. Surprisingly, it lasted a few years. I drove to the shootout a couple times, car meets, and road rallies. Well, as they say, all good things come to an end. That was a couple weeks ago. Since I had no clutch, I had to synchronize engine rpm and the trans to get it home. First view inside the bell housing:

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The bearing was eaten up pretty good
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It jacked up the clip and fork too. I had a spare fork, so I had to do all that work for $50 in parts. By the way, only one dealership in 150 miles had that spring clip, and only one. I popped in two new axles while it was down, because the rubber boots had started to split.
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Impatiently waiting for my o2 sensor to come in a few days since NOT A SINGLE parts store has one anywhere close to me 😒. So I guess I'll wash her today and knock off the years worth of Oklahoma dust. Can continue tuning when sensor gets here f***ing THURSDAY 😡🤬 I'm ready to drive her again.

Also. Any live feed links to the shootout? All I can find is videos of previous years.
 
Not shootout related (maybe one day LOL) but the TALON Restoration update!

Great day today!!! Its back on the floor on its own wheels!!!!!!!✌️

Firstly, THIS CAR NOW HAS A BUILD THREAD ON IT SO ALL THIS AND PREVIOUS PSOSTS HERE WILL BE ADDED! listed in my profile for all to see and specs. https://www.dsmtuners.com/dsm-profiles/panda-restoration-1-owner-car.17271/


So starting off the day was re making the PS cooling pipe. This took some time to do and getting it accurate was not hard but just time consuming. We had a pinhole and its super tiny but enough to piss out fluids. Now the new one is perfect and mounts as OEM. Its also black to match the oem looks, raw does look fancy but you know the drill by now on this restoration LOL

Then I get to replace the ALT belt that shred itself! Weird one but its fine and still alive.

After that k got the car upto temps and refilled the PS fluid then reset the BISS screw and then Timing as the CAS had been replaced and was never perfect but now it is and idles nicely and at the correct rpm also.

Small test drive to see and feel the car (alignment is out so thats being adjusted slightly tomorrow) but it feels nice. Hard to judge as slow speeds. Then a weird thing happened! The throttle llate stuck open... Causing me to speed up so i dip the clutch and it revs up so i kill the engine! I check a line to see if its a hose thats split or any connector and nothing.

After digging around for a bit i find the throttle plate not closing all the way? Bit odd as its not been touched. So the assumtion is it was just a bit dirty and after slamming it shut a few times it now re seats and hear the click as it closes and does it when hot and cold. So i got test drive it a few more times and it seems all good now, so a weird fluke issue but it is something to keep an eye on as it may need s deep clean but for now its working and happy it drives!


As always lots of pics for you ( oh and our new rad stickers came in ) so those are now on the fan shrouds and look amazing now its all readable and refreshed.


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Impatiently waiting for my o2 sensor to come in a few days since NOT A SINGLE parts store has one anywhere close to me 😒. So I guess I'll wash her today and knock off the years worth of Oklahoma dust. Can continue tuning when sensor gets here f***ing THURSDAY 😡🤬 I'm ready to drive her again.

Also. Any live feed links to the shootout? All I can find is videos of previous years.
I am not sure if you live in Oklahoma or the car came from there but your O2 sensor was available in a couple places.
To make you feel "not alone", I too, am waiting on a Bosch 4.9 that will be here "tomorrow" so I pulled mine out and cleaned and re-free air calibrated my old sensor so I could take a nice cruise for data yesterday and it actually worked but was very slow in warming up.
Marty

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I am not sure if you live in Oklahoma or the car came from there but your O2 sensor was available in a couple places.
To make you feel "not alone", I too, am waiting on a Bosch 4.9 that will be here "tomorrow" so I pulled mine out and cleaned and re-free air calibrated my old sensor so I could take a nice cruise for data yesterday and it actually worked but was very slow in warming up.
Marty

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I'm still waiting on a banjo bolt and crush washers for the oil feed line to be delivered, hopefully that fixes the leak. If not I'll purchase a new turbo.That and two other parts: a male headlight pigtail, and an alternator harness relay. That relay will hopefully fix the issue with the battery dying. New battery, new alternator, but it still has to be jump started every morning.

Once those parts are in I'll be able to install the 2GB headlights and front bumper cover. I'm pretty sure I'm not going to put in fog lights.
 
Meh. Got bored and put the 2GB bumper cover and headlights on. They'll be easy enough to take back out once the male headlight pigtail arrives this week. I'm wondering if I should install foglights or just delete them. Any input is welcome. I'm going to change out the quarter panels with Duraflex ones. So, the question is, once I fill in door dings, minor imperfections etc, is what color I should paint it? I'm thinking a dark metallic green.

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I powder coated yesterday for the first time. A brake caliber, non ABS proportioning valve, air intake tube, valve cover, and a couple of other pieces that I don't currently remember. It's not perfect but I thought it turned out decent enough. Pics are on my build thread.
 
It was less than 80* today and overcast with a nice breeze. So I rain-x'd the shit out of the windshield, and drove it to the store.


Starting to remember why I love these freakin' drama queen cars so much now. Honestly was so enjoyable. Can't wait for the 500 mile mark so I can turn the boost up and really let it rip.
 
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