What did you do to your DSM today?

[pksystems]

Finished installing head and all pulleys. Can pull the engine support bar.

Pulled one of the rotors off to see if they can be saved with a bath in evapo-rust

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[AWDGrayBird]

Had a fun few hours ripping a turbo out to try to determine where the burning oil comes from why cruising, after a WOT pull and right after shutdown. It never comes out the exhaust only under the hood like it is randomly dripping on the exhaust never constant.

Have oil pressure issues. (11-13psi) At idle 210 coolant temp. Between 105-120psi between 6400-7100rpm. Have a .075 restrictor at bastard 20g built by Justin and that may have saved the Turbo waiting for a response.

I am at a loss. I fixed all the leaks when I had to swap and alternator and wait for injectors why getting a tune from Kevin Jewer.

Next step is pull the OFH and port the relief valve passage. I also grabbed a low pressure relief valve spring from ExtremePSI.

Long story made longer I can't find anything except some exhaust restrictions and a leak at the turbine housing clamp. No in and out shaft play and minimal side to side.

Going to do a water pump and timing belt since that was done 44k miles ago and I don't want to try to flex the timing cover to get to the last bolt on the OFH.

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[pksystems]

Pulled a bunch of stuff off again so I could install other stuff. Apparently the alternator tensioner bracket needs to go on before the accessory pullies.

And of course a wiring connector fell off while I was moving the harness around. Coolant temperature gauge connector. I believe I can just crimp a female spade terminal onto the wire.

 

[jdxnc]

Unloaded it off the trailer last night after the 800 mile trip from Ohio to home and washed it up for racing this weekend.

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[99eclipsegs-2t]

new downpipe today! the previous one had a long flex section that rubbed a hole into the oil pan, hence the JB weld you see in the pic. I'm really happy with this purchase, from Canada!

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[92AWDHX40]

Began to remove doors and prepping the other ones i got in Ohio for paint before install them, doing the jambs soon. Preparing it for tuning in detroit next month, ordered 16 an hose from summit waiting on radiator to get welded fittings on then install and check for leaks.

 

[curt-s]

Painted a thing and went as far on my -4an oil feed line as I could without the turbo in.

Heads gone back to the shop because E4 wouldn't seal worth a damn. E2 and E8 also had some leakage. Not sure why #4 was so bad considering most others were fine.

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[Imback]

Innovate yes and wideband is working fine. Using 93 oct.

You have a few things set up wrong.

Got everything ready to yank the motor back out unfortunately. i"ll remove the transmission either tomorrow or friday. Then back to the machine shop it goes.

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On another hand i got another locals car running again for the first time in 6 years.The small victories

 

[93xsg]

Well I broke a piston ring trying to remove them from the shortblock I bought Was pulling them to clean the pistons and check the end gap to make sure it was done right. A little research and I've found the Wiseco replacement rings only $32 per piston on STM.

 

[Ludachris]

I am not following the thread always, so I don't know what problem you are having. But it seems at least you should replace the alternator as soon as possible. Your voltage regulator seems to be dead.
You have very high voltage, like mid 14v to high 15v at idle and you are having high 17v above 3000 rpm and it gets almost 18v at 4000 rpm. You may start damaging some parts...

This brings up a good point - it is probably best not to use long run-on threads like this to post problems you need help with, as someone would have to sift through a bunch of previous posts to see what else (if anything) you've said about the issue to help try and diagnose it. It's better to start a new thread in one of the tech Q&A forums to make it easier for people to help with diagnosis. And it also helps keep threads like this a little closer to their intended topic or purpose.

 

[b00zt3d spyd3r]

This brings up a good point - it is probably best not to use long run-on threads like this to post problems you need help with, as someone would have to sift through a bunch of previous posts to see what else (if anything) you've said about the issue to help try and diagnose it. It's better to start a new thread in one of the tech Q&A forums to make it easier for people to help with diagnosis. And it also helps keep threads like this a little closer to their intended topic or purpose.

You are right and that's my bad I should've started a new thread on this.

 

[Ludachris]

You are right and that's my bad I should've started a new thread on this.

No worries man, it's natural to bring things up in a thread like this. I know I probably would too, but when I saw Hiroshi's reply, it made me think about it a little more. I just want to make sure it's easy for people to get help and give help.

 

[Tiki2777]

Drove the car to work today.....Got up early to do it too haha.
Parking it with the lack of power steering and welded center was fun haha.

 

[AWDGrayBird]

Had a small exhaust restriction. 2 hours later... Fixed

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[92AWDHX40]

Installed doors, primed bumper, working on engine bay, redoing wiring in trunk for relocation and altenator.

 

[pksystems]

Reinstalled my de-rusted passenger side rotors, with fresh caliper pin grease. The evapo-rust seems to have done a decent job. We'll see. Rust is all gone, but it has some mild pitting.

Tried to remove rear drivers wheel, but it's fused onto the rotor from sitting for so long.

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[b00zt3d spyd3r]

Replaced alternator, doing another boost leak test and then hoping I can get back to tuning.
I'll create a separate thread for the logs this time

 

[Joewy Rodriguez]

No hood day

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[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Posting in here as I am not caught up on the build thread yet bring that up to speed.

But today was a great day! I drove this Talon to work early in the morning as its quiet then and this was the FIRST drive since the restorstion thats NOT 2 seconds down the road

I went over hump, bumps odd road surfaces and its amazing!!! The chassis now feels alot tighter as a whole and THANKFULLY nothing fell off along the drive. Everything was torqued and marked anyway but after a drive we know things move and shift about. I jacked it up at work to check and nothing seemed to have moved so thats a good sign.

The reason for the car being at work is the local guys are going to do the MOT / yearly inspection on it. Plus it gets me a chance to drive it before it goes there to check it all out,

Pics of this morning as we got all new LED bulbs everywhere now and looks super bright and nice.

One of the major items to do was make a new battery bracket as his was lost somehow so I replicated an OEM one but from stainless (as normal haha) and then i lightly blasted his to dull it down and it looks SWEEEEET.
I also made my Talon one as I do dont have one when i got the car. But mines painted black. Having a good battery tie down is small but great to have.

Whats NEXT for the Talon?

After the inspection its pretty much over for the restoration.

KEY parts are.

* Install side rear plastic trim caps.

* Let the customer drive it for about a week then do a full hardware check to confirm its all ok and check some torques.

* Once thats done then will get the car fully aligned as its only basicly setup to drive on right now but much prefer this on a hunter digital system to be spot on.

The NEXT parts are something to dig into that the owner has had for some time now which might take some time chasing down.

* Shifting into 2nd gear is a big notch in the shifter. Its been there for many years he says and its not changed since. Only 2nd gear so im thinking synchro in the box as its fine on every other gear but oddly it sounds shifter like not gear box. The ONLY thing is (recently done a full shifter kit) but the swinging pivot arm inside has some movement still even with the bronze bushes! But i doubt that the cause on 2nd being like this.

* The other issue is the idle drops ALOT when AC is turned on.
Now I have reset the BISS and reset timing since the CAS was changed the the hall effect one and the TPS and ISC were all changed. I got idle about 800rpm nicely but AC on it drops to 500-600 ish? I thought it might be loading the alternator a bit but not fully sure on that. So another thing to look into.

* Another item is a slight pop/misfire every now and then. The only thing not touched now is the coilpacks everything else has been replaced due to maintenance. Plugs, wires, fuel filter, fuel pump. So for this im either leaning towards coilpacks or injector needs a proper cleaning

So yeah just a few things to do and complete

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[99eclipsegs-2t]

rebuilt my thermostat housing with some parts from the chopped donor Spyder I had. coolant and time did it's number and one of the endings was chipped. It would be cool to try and repair this stuff with a welder, I'm just not sure if it's better to make something new?

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[CrackedDSM]

Swapped back to coilovers. As is standard anytime I work on the car I have to stop right in the middle and do something the wife and kid want to do. Also, had to let my daughter "help" the whole time, so it took the whole day.


I'll drive it later and see how changing preload/properly setting preload has it drive. But honestly even if it sucks, I'm gonna leave them on. With the oem struts and tein S techs the front fenders were digging/cutting into the tires, with the coilovers they weren't. I gave the fenders a mini "roll" just to be safe, but yeah. I like the adjustability better with the coilovers so I think they're here to stay. I'll just get used to the stiff ride.

 

[d1prospect]

Finally took my car out for a little fun. It’s been about 8mo since last driven. I start once a week but hardly even drive anymore.

After driving felt like I was neglecting my kid. I gotta do better.

Gotta get back into this project.

 

[Type1DSMr]

Decided it was time to finally finish this 8 year plus project and get back into dsms after basically stepping away from dsms in 2017.

I managed to mount the e85 sensor on the firewall and start bolting down the black dash that I took out of the old Talon. Not much but it's a start .

 

[AWDGrayBird]

Many hours of fun today. 3 out of 4 carrier bearings studs where cross threaded took some force to get the nuts off... Had to get a 10x1.25 die and fix the threads so I could install my JXB carrier supports.

Decided to drain fluids in the transmission "overfilled a lot" but clean, Rear diff "overfilled" but clean.
T-case no fluid pouring on the fill plug but a nice blue milk shake and noticed a bolt missing and threw one in there and no threads... The one in blue is also toast. Couldn't even get to 20ft lbs.

Looks like more work for me.

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[curt-s]

Many hours of fun today. 3 out of 4 carrier bearings studs where cross threaded took some force to get the nuts off... Had to get a 10x1.25 die and fix the threads so I could install my JXB carrier supports.

Decided to drain fluids in the transmission "overfilled a lot" but clean, Rear diff "overfilled" but clean.
T-case no fluid pouring on the fill plug but a nice blue milk shake and noticed a bolt missing and threw one in there and no threads... The one in blue is also toast. Couldn't even get to 20ft lbs.

Looks like more work for me.

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Check your breather bulb on the top of the tcase. Many overlook this and the sealing gasket material (a Mopar sealant but I use 3M 08001 now) stops doing its job and allows water in. You may have caught it early. Mine looked considerably worse, there was corrosion in place of any sealant and the heavyweight shockproof filled by the POs "mechanic" came out red/gray milky. They never checked the bulb seal.

Fortunately the bearings and races still looked great.