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What did you do to your DSM today?

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I <explicit> drove the <explicit> thing. Something I didn't think was going to ever be possible on SD for me.


Can't smile big enough. Where the hell is the dancing banana smiley.
 
Over the weekend, I put on the non ABS prop valve and ran all the new stainless brake lines, put in a new speedometer cable, replaced the heater hoses, put one of the strut/spring assemblies together and realized the springs need painting bc the colors clash. On top of the green Tein springs and the i guess orangish color KYB struts, I'm going back with bronze rims. That will be another problem for another day after the car is back on the road though. Im still trying to remove a seized brake caliper piston as well.

Oh, and I had to order another stainless steel fuel filter element bc i had bought the wrong size.
 
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Installed Radium Electrical Bulkhead studs (x2) to the fuel hanger assembly. No more hot wiring to the 450 HP.
I am STILL having fuel pressure issues though, more fun.
Swapped my heater hoses with the fancy-looking Ebay specials (G-Plus). Bypassed my Hallman Bleeder Boost Controller.
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Been out of the loop for quite some time but its about time to get the engine and transmission dropped back in!! Finally got my OHM Racing harness in and the fuse box one is routed but holding off on the engine one for now.

I think everything is pretty much ready to go but the paranoia is setting in on if I have quadruple checked everything haha. Only thing I haven't really done is check step heights of the ACT streetlite flywheel and action clutch setup I've got (both brand new in the box). Probably should check it but I don't have the means to do a PROPER check. Closest machine shop is a little over an hour away.

Cant really remember where I left off last but all good progress made.
 
I was thinking I was going to go with speed density on my 1G but after hearing all the hell it's putting some of you through I think I'm just going to stick with a 2G MAF. I'm just running a 16G anyway so I don't think I'll give up much power (if any).
 
Been out of the loop for quite some time but its about time to get the engine and transmission dropped back in!! Finally got my OHM Racing harness in and the fuse box one is routed but holding off on the engine one for now.

I think everything is pretty much ready to go but the paranoia is setting in on if I have quadruple checked everything haha. Only thing I haven't really done is check step heights of the ACT streetlite flywheel and action clutch setup I've got (both brand new in the box). Probably should check it but I don't have the means to do a PROPER check. Closest machine shop is a little over an hour away.

Cant really remember where I left off last but all good progress made.

I'd also check the stock step-to-block distance and the same for the ACT, just to make sure it would be positioning the clutch the same distance from the block. I suspect that may be the cause of some of our fork position issues.

I used thick L bracket steel that I drilled a hole through, a dial indicator well wedged through that hole and some equal thickness magnets to raise it up and keep things from moving around. It gave me .609 everywhere. What I didn't check was the above.
 
Don’t you love when you fix one thing and go out to enjoy your car and something else decides to break. I’m not surprised since Ive had some recent power steering issues which soaked the alterntor so I already have a replacement. #dsmlife

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I was thinking I was going to go with speed density on my 1G but after hearing all the hell it's putting some of you through I think I'm just going to stick with a 2G MAF. I'm just running a 16G anyway so I don't think I'll give up much power (if any).
It's not that bad. More fiddly, if anything. I think most problems stem from either an exhaust leak where you don't think you have one (especially turbine outlet to O2 housing as I found out even off-the-shelf parts from well respected names are not actually flat), or the sensors aren't acting quite right. Wait. That's everything about SD and mass air... LOL

I'm not even entirely sure if I trust the vband connections on my JMF unit being completely air tight, but I'm giving it some run time to relax the metal into it's new torqued position before I tighten it any further. That's going to be a real fun affair given where I had to rotate them to clear the O2 sensor, the dipstick, and the wastegate itself.

At the minimum, I'd have two MAP sensors on hand and two wideband O2 sensors. If you could have two full wideband kits, that would be better.. just to see if they are telling the same story.

But mass air is definitely easier as you've collapsed two dimensions into one. The 2G MAF is more than capable of handling the 16G anyway.

I only switched because I bought my BV50 on the super cheap. I think I paid $40 for it. Over double that in springs over the years, though. I figured I'd try something new and it's been fun but I'm fairly certain my FIC750s were screwing with me.


today, I was going to tweak fuel and maybe even try to see if it will drive.
Unfortunately, it's 5C out today.

Instead, I'm using this cold day to organize my garage that's been a workshop for the past 6 months so that I can get my daily back in. I'll probably put the hood on afterwards. Later this week when it doubles+ temperature it'll make its way back out onto the driveway.
 
I walked past my '95 GST and looked at it. Then looked at it again. The mental list of things that I need to order/work on seems to get longer every time I do. Today was no different. She's still not ready to be driven.

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Took these rusty rear rotors that I'd soaked in EvapoRust, then hit with a flapper disc (hint, hint, they still looked like shit), and finally turned them. Haha
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It's not that bad. More fiddly, if anything. I think most problems stem from either an exhaust leak where you don't think you have one (especially turbine outlet to O2 housing as I found out even off-the-shelf parts from well respected names are not actually flat), or the sensors aren't acting quite right. Wait. That's everything about SD and mass air... LOL

I'm not even entirely sure if I trust the vband connections on my JMF unit being completely air tight, but I'm giving it some run time to relax the metal into it's new torqued position before I tighten it any further. That's going to be a real fun affair given where I had to rotate them to clear the O2 sensor, the dipstick, and the wastegate itself.

At the minimum, I'd have two MAP sensors on hand and two wideband O2 sensors. If you could have two full wideband kits, that would be better.. just to see if they are telling the same story.

But mass air is definitely easier as you've collapsed two dimensions into one. The 2G MAF is more than capable of handling the 16G anyway.

I only switched because I bought my BV50 on the super cheap. I think I paid $40 for it. Over double that in springs over the years, though. I figured I'd try something new and it's been fun but I'm fairly certain my FIC750s were screwing with me.

today, I was going to tweak fuel and maybe even try to see if it will drive.
Unfortunately, it's 5C out today.

Instead, I'm using this cold day to organize my garage that's been a workshop for the past 6 months so that I can get my daily back in. I'll probably put the hood on afterwards. Later this week when it doubles+ temperature it'll make its way back out onto the driveway.

To add to this, my struggles are a combination of a freak accident, and me not listening to advice that was repeated by several different gurus. My entire struggle wouldn't been maybe a day or two, had I just continued to keep pulling deadtime until the car 1) Idled 2) reach Stoich 3) matched AFRest and Wideband 4) had Combined FT be as close to 0 as possible. That's legitimately all my friend did before he started tweaking and stuff, and that was 95% of my struggling done in less than a day.

But to add to the parts list, also keep a couple spare packs of spark plugs. I fouled mine so bad it was messing with idle and part throttle.

To add to the thread: What'd I do today? I drove it to work. The tune still needs tweaks but aside from a single moment where it struggled to restart, it was glorious. The turbo noises from this FP Green and aluminum intake & intercooler piping is almost orgasmic. So smooth and so much fun.
 
I hear ya. A 4" alum intake pipe with 8" filter, even while being very light on the throttle, just makes such a crazy fun sound. One of my favorite while driving the car since I first started using the combo. Get a little more into it and it starts sounding like a tornado then followed by the BV50 blow off is, well, startling to bystanders
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I hear ya. A 4" alum intake pipe with 8" filter, even while being very light on the throttle, just makes such a crazy fun sound. One of my favorite while driving the car since I first started using the combo. Get a little more into it and it starts sounding like a tornado then followed by the BV50 blow off is, well, startling to bystanders
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Love it. I love that there seems to be a bunch of us getting our DSMs back on the road or straightened out.


Gonna have to get a terrible quality iPhone video of mine one of these days. I had no idea how much a thick stainless steel intake pipe quiets down turbo noises. But the difference between the Dejon 2G MAF pipe and this thin-walled Aluminum SD intake pipe was ridiculous. Lol
 
Also finally looked into why I've never had power locks. P.O. took fuse out. I put a fuse in, driver actuator doesn't work. I can hit the lock/unlock and only passenger works so I dug in. Turns out actuator is aftermarket and spliced in... HE f***IN USED SPEAKER WIRE. Who tf does that?! Anyway what's the go to for actuator? Amazon specials? Also would the actuator cause the alarm to go off when unlocking with the key?
 
Also finally looked into why I've never had power locks. P.O. took fuse out. I put a fuse in, driver actuator doesn't work. I can hit the lock/unlock and only passenger works so I dug in. Turns out actuator is aftermarket and spliced in... HE f***IN USED SPEAKER WIRE. Who tf does that?! Anyway what's the go to for actuator? Amazon specials? Also would the actuator cause the alarm to go off when unlocking with the key?


Actuator wouldn't make the alarm go off, there's a little clip that clips onto the back of the actual lock cylinder that's in the door handle that people commonly remove when replacing door handles. Removing it almost always breaks it, or it will never go back in properly how it was. This doesn't actually have to be removed.


But yeah, without that the security system thinks the door should still be locked. So when it opens...bam. Alarm.

I'd personally just splice the wires so it thinks the door is unlocked at all times. Or if you want to not be ghetto, replace the long-lost key fob that locks/unlocks the doors with an eBay special. Either way works.
 
Front cv shaft rebuild ..new boots and grease and a bit of rattle can make up ...right side was ok ...the left joints were in good shape but the intermediate shaft carrier bear surface is worn ...bearing was fine but sloppy on the shaft ...will have to pull one off the donor and see what it's like...gonna keep this shaft i know a machinist who can fix it ...good for a spare
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Front cv shaft rebuild ..new boots and grease and a bit of rattle can make up ...right side was ok ...the left joints were in good shape but the intermediate shaft carrier bear surface is worn ...bearing was fine but sloppy on the shaft ...will have to pull one off the donor and see what it's like...gonna keep this shaft i know a machinist who can fix it ...good for a spare
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Nice.

What are you thinking, go with a metalized spray and machine it down? Or machine and sleeve it? I imagine you only need to make up a couple thou.
 
Drove it again to work today. It was cloudy, breezier, and slightly cooler as a result. Car did even better today.


Added some CoastingFC and it completely solved the dying issue I had when putting it in neutral and coasting to a stop.

Added Hot Start Enrichment check box, and added +3 seconds to key on fuel pump prime option completely solved the hot start(or lack thereof) issue as well.


These turbo noises are so much fun, and the more I drive the car the more I appreciate it. I need to address a bunch of squeaks and rattles but honestly...just enjoying driving it. I see what David Freiburger means when he says "Don't get it RIGHT, just get it RUNNING." I don't agree with it 100%...but a balance is absolute truth.
 
I dropped my block off at the machine shop today. Gonna have them assemble the rotating assembly and check the main line bore after they install the Kiggley girdle.


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I dropped my block off at the machine shop today. Gonna have them assemble the rotating assembly and check the main line bore after they install the Kiggley girdle.


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Make sure they know how to install the girdle to do the line hone if they remove it. First shop I took it to (hey @Canadian_CD9A, just fyi it was PR) tried to install it upside down and couldn't so they took a die grinder to it without asking.
I already clearances the bosses, they just had to put it back how they received it..


What did I do? Drove it for the first time in two years. Boy, do I have more work to do. I put some -24 engine braking into it, but didn't drive it hard because my fueling is too out of whack. Partly me, partly the 1200s wanting near 20% more dead time than expected. Will try another FP gauge and get back at it tomorrow.
 
Make sure they know how to install the girdle to do the line hone if they remove it. First shop I took it to (hey @Canadian_CD9A, just fyi it was PR) tried to install it upside down and couldn't so they took a die grinder to it without asking.
I already clearances the bosses, they just had to put it back how they received it..

I did the grinding myself for the fitment. I also marked on it the direction it goes in the block, which mimics the main caps, even though my picture here had the rear cap backwards LOL. I also brought them a copy of the installation instructions, went over it with the owner, and had him make notes on the work order. I’m the guy that prints and brings a list of all my parts, tolerances, and torque specs. Everything is also labeled with my name and the engine code. I’ve used them for years and they haven’t disappointed yet, so hopefully all goes well.
 
Good. They didn't bother looking at the instructions when I handed my stuff over apparently. I've used this place before as well, I gave tolerances and torque specs were there documented with the rest of everything, and nearly every thing touched was wrong. the only thing that was validated as correct after was the PTW. Line bore was done improperly (too tight of center somehow), rod big ends were cut out .001 too large, it was shocking. four months waiting for .. that.
Anyway, good luck.
 
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