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What did you do to your DSM today?

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A few things done today;

1) Added a shim to my pivot ball with the trans still in. Not that difficult, more of finding the right wrench that fits. The most important part is to grind the side of the wrench a bit where it hits the window, as the guide (https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/how-to-shim-pivot-ball-w-trans-in-the-car.536167/) says.

My Competition Clutch fork was hitting the bellhousing before, now it's got room to move and is more centered. Is it enough with the one shim, I don't know yet.. but it's a start.
Unfortunately the shim isn't magnetic so if I have to add another, I'll have to devise a way to back off the pivot ball without dropping the shim into the void and having to take off the transfer case just to remove the inspection plate.

Hopefully it's enough.

2) Added a 4AN takeoff so that I can use my oil dummy light again. I have a weird OFH where it has one 1/8 and one 3/8 port. The 3/8 feeds my turbo through 4AN and inline FP filter, the 1/8 feeds the oil pressure sender. So a 4AN takeoff in there allows me to use the stock switch. NOTE: for mostly obvious reasons, anodized aluminum isn't conductive unless you scrape off the coating. Since the switch is grounded through the body, I had to be creative.

So I made a wire loop, encased it in solder, and placed it so that it gets sandwiched between the takeoff fitting and the body of the switch when it's screwed in. Other end goes to the alternator grounding bracket. Complete circuit. Yay. Since solder is soft, it may even act as a bit of a crush washer.. though I doubt it.

3) Relocated my boost reference line to the correct port of the wastegate. I'm so used to the stock wastegate actuator it just became brainless habit to connect it to the top port, even though a stock actuator only has one. Anyway, it's now actually helping to open the wastegate in *positive* pressure, rather than trying to open it in vacuum and keeping it closed in positive. silly me.
 
When I had my 1G I spent weeks redoing my cylinder head because I had no compression in a cylinder (turned out to be carbon stuck in the valve seat). Anyway, got it back up and running and a day later was hit by a jackass towing a trailer changing lanes into me who didn't look in his mirror or hear my not subtle exhaust note. Moron.

At least it's not your driver side door :p

Time for some metal ones?
 
When I had my 1G I spent weeks redoing my cylinder head because I had no compression in a cylinder (turned out to be carbon stuck in the valve seat). Anyway, got it back up and running and a day later was hit by a jackass towing a trailer changing lanes into me who didn't look in his mirror or hear my not subtle exhaust note. Moron.

At least it's not your driver side door :p

Time for some metal ones?
Yeah eventually when I have an extra couple hundred to throw at door handles 🤣🤣🤣😑
 
I just got my cop cover from finish line Fabrication to match their valve cover plus the triangular plugs to conver the 4 pins plug into 3 pins plug too much to list
 
Having a tough time with this OHM Racing engine harness install but hoping to get it ironed out. Made a post with questions if one of you electrical gurus wants to check it out. The electrical stuff with cars is where I fall severely short in knowledge and ability to read pictures well. Also have a post about some splice points in the car interior harness I'm still trying to chase down.

Other than that cant complain about other progress made with installing the harness and getting some more brackets stripped and re-painted (always a satisfying process, even though no one will ever really see them but I'll know I saved them from the rust haha).

Next steps down the line are to get the engine and transmission bolted together, drop it and chase down the fuel pump wiring (cant catch a break with the wiring on this car but its forcing me to learn) as well as drop the fuel tank for a cleaning.
 
Door lock actuators showed up today so I dug in quickly! In the process figured out why my alarm would go off if I unlocked with a key. Damn door lock key switch was disconnected. Got that hooked up along with new actuator and BAM power door locks work and no alarm! Just waiting on new key fob and ill have full power locks and keyless entry for the first time in 8 years of owning this car 💪
 
Drove it for the second time in two years and the first time this year without it stalling out at every stop sign.

Then found most valve cover bolts were now so loose the VC was nearly just sitting down on the head. Caught it before it made a mess but it looked pretty concerning.

I think my narrowband is a bit daft/slow/near death, so I put it in open loop and took it around the area to put some boost in it. Directly plumbed to wastegate, I hit a cool 9psi at 4000rpm.. but that wastegate is already starting to open the moment it sees positive pressure which was at 3100 (only a 9psi spring in it on purpose). Now it goes on the stock BCS for some juice and to keep the WG shut until it's told to open.

It. Never. Stalled. Once.

Ended up with -55% global fuel, 0 global deadtime on top of the FIC table. idle VE of 54 still gave me a 13.9:1 AFR average.

No WOT up high yet because I still need to tweak but I'll be simulating NB for the short term because I only have two days of warm weather. After Monday it's single digits and she goes to sleep for the winter.

oh and I think my fuel gauge or the wiring has a problem, or isn't even connected. I'll have to check the other tank, maybe I forgot to connect it LOL
 
Drove it for the second time in two years and the first time this year without it stalling out at every stop sign.

Then found most valve cover bolts were now so loose the VC was nearly just sitting down on the head. Caught it before it made a mess but it looked pretty concerning.

I think my narrowband is a bit daft/slow/near death, so I put it in open loop and took it around the area to put some boost in it. Directly plumbed to wastegate, I hit a cool 9psi at 4000rpm.. but that wastegate is already starting to open the moment it sees positive pressure which was at 3100 (only a 9psi spring in it on purpose). Now it goes on the stock BCS for some juice and to keep the WG shut until it's told to open.

It. Never. Stalled. Once.

Ended up with -55% global fuel, 0 global deadtime on top of the FIC table. idle VE of 54 still gave me a 13.9:1 AFR average.

No WOT up high yet because I still need to tweak but I'll be simulating NB for the short term because I only have two days of warm weather. After Monday it's single digits and she goes to sleep for the winter.

oh and I think my fuel gauge or the wiring has a problem, or isn't even connected. I'll have to check the other tank, maybe I forgot to connect it LOL
What ended up being the issue?
 
Working on the fuel system in my Talon. I’m switching over to E85, so swapping the lines over to PTFE -6an. Supposed to get the fittings welded to the sending unit tomorrow. The car had an upgraded pump in it, but I’m tossing in the 295 pump to make sure that I’ll be ready for anything.
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What ended up being the issue?
I'm not entirely sure other than the bigger the injector, the more sensitive to fuel changes the system becomes.
For starters, FIC DA table plus 70usec it did not want. My global is more rich because heavier throttle was going too lean. I only did about 10km just as an extended test. ve needs less than 54 at idle

I did disassemble every injector plug and my problem injector did have kind of a loose contact so I crimped them all down just a smidge to make positive contact.
Injectors looked fine, didn't have a pool of gas on the backside of any valve (if I lost a rocker), no crud inside blocking flow. A break in wire insulation near connector but on #2 or #3.. addressed it with liquid electrical tape as wire was still fully intact.

#4 on left, 3 on right, 2 is identical. Now they're looking clean

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Door lock actuators showed up today so I dug in quickly! In the process figured out why my alarm would go off if I unlocked with a key. Damn door lock key switch was disconnected. Got that hooked up along with new actuator and BAM power door locks work and no alarm! Just waiting on new key fob and ill have full power locks and keyless entry for the first time in 8 years of owning this car 💪

Called it! Congrats!


I'm not entirely sure other than the bigger the injector, the more sensitive to fuel changes the system becomes.
For starters, FIC DA table plus 70usec it did not want. My global is more rich because heavier throttle was going too lean. I only did about 10km just as an extended test. ve needs less than 54 at idle

I did disassemble every injector plug and my problem injector did have kind of a loose contact so I crimped them all down just a smidge to make positive contact.
Injectors looked fine, didn't have a pool of gas on the backside of any valve (if I lost a rocker), no crud inside blocking flow. A break in wire insulation near connector but on #2 or #3.. addressed it with liquid electrical tape as wire was still fully intact.

#4 on left, 3 on right, 2 is identical. Now they're looking clean

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Also called it! Mine did the same shit and it was the injector wiring. Stoked for you budday/guy!
 
Starting checking for vacuum/boost leaks starting at the j-pipe and turbo.

I've been having acceleration issues for example: lack of acceleration, going uphill the vehicle would slow down no matter how much the gas pedal was pressed or what gear I was in. It also had trouble staying running upon 1st startup. I'll have to do a complete leak down test and get to the bottom of the issue.

Once I tightened the j-pipe/turbo connection the acceleration improved slightly but now the idle surges and there is a slight miss. No CEL. The TPS is new so it probably needs to be adjusted. I figure I'll start the leak down test at the throttle body and work my way down to the injectors and then the j-pipe and intercooler connection. If that doesn't fix the lack of power I'll look at the condition of the turbo. Possible injector issue? Fuel pump?

The injectors have new o-rings but I'll have to get them flow tested, once I search forums and YouTube to find out how. The fuel pump is stock and is also new so I don't think the fuel pump is the issue. Plugs, wires, and ignition coils are new so I don't think that's the issue, either.

Long story short I think once I find and fix the boost leaks, check the spark plugs, injectors, and adjust the TPS the problem should be fixed. Hopefully. If not, I'll remove the turbo and check the condition of it.
 
Also called it! Mine did the same shit and it was the injector wiring. Stoked for you budday/guy!
Yeah she doesn't want to die out now even if the rpms drop fast. Tweaking VE and fuel around will help.

With a lightweight flywheel and 800g total shaved off the rest of the rotating due to forged shit, I'm hoping that's what's causing the bit of random rpm drop at clutch in. Sometimes it does, most times it doesn't.
I've only put about 50km on it so far but if I didn't do shit right down there, my endplay could go south fast. So I will check it tomorrow

Other that than, only 12psi now but holy hell she moves faster than the b16g on 7.8:1 did at the same.

Already had one compliment at the local gas station and a smile wave from a WRX after I put the food down

Haven't thoroughly gone through the logs but I am a full point lean on WOT so my global needs to richen up. Already at 55
 
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Yeah she doesn't want to die out now even if the rpms drop fast. Tweaking VE and fuel around will help.

With a lightweight flywheel and 800g total shaved off the rest of the rotating due to forged shit, I'm hoping that's what's causing the bit of random rpm drop at clutch in. Sometimes it does, most times it doesn't.
I've only put about 50km on it so far but if I didn't do shit right down there, my endplay could go south fast. So I will check it tomorrow

Other that than, only 12psi now but holy hell she moves faster than the b16g on 7.8:1 did at the same.

Already had one compliment at the local gas station and a smile wave from a WRX after I put the food down

Haven't thoroughly gone through the logs but I am a full point lean on WOT so my global needs to richen up. Already at 55


That's awesome!

And if it gets too low for your comfort, just add a little to the Coasting FC offset in the RPM/TPS tab. It's what I had to do. It'll help keep the RPMs from dropping too low and too fast when you clutch in, or throw it in neutral. :)

I love this, man. I hope a bunch more of us get our DSMs running soon. Seems like all the DSM flowers are starting to bloom!
 
That's awesome!

And if it gets too low for your comfort, just add a little to the Coasting FC offset in the RPM/TPS tab. It's what I had to do. It'll help keep the RPMs from dropping too low and too fast when you clutch in, or throw it in neutral. :)

I love this, man. I hope a bunch more of us get our DSMs running soon. Seems like all the DSM flowers are starting to bloom!
I think I'm at 220 or 250. It's mostly on decel when fuel kicks back in that it goes rich in hard vacuum (SD table needs some pulled) so when it does get back to idle, it stumbles a little but recovers quick.

With your 272s straight up, do you get a grggrgrgr on heavy accel in lower rpm? A gurgling from the exhaust but not stumbling or struggling.. Like the lope is coming right through, just until you have a bit of boost or higher rpm?
I've not had aftermarket cams before so I'm not sure what I'm hearing. Maybe it's the increased overlap

But, yes, to answer your earlier question about how you think you have 280s, mine at 850-900 definitely sounds louder and angrier on them. Not a perfect lope and idle is still wandering a little, perhaps due to my timing down low being a bit narrower than stock 2g.

I did have to back out my BISS quite a bit. She wants more air at idle, but that makes sense to me given the cams.. or not?
 
With your 272s straight up, do you get a grggrgrgr on heavy accel in lower rpm? A gurgling from the exhaust but not stumbling or struggling.. Like the lope is coming right through, just until you have a bit of boost or higher rpm?
I've not had aftermarket cams before so I'm not sure what I'm hearing. Maybe it's the increased overlap


As in a sound, or does it chug a tiny bit?

If I punch it at like 1000rpms-1100 rpms in gear while rolling it'll chug-a-lug it's ass off. It's still not tuned really in that spot, but from 2500-3000RPM if I pin the gas it goes immediately. There's always been a random lean spot in 1800-2800rpm for me that I've just learned to live with. Could be the cams, or could be the injectors draining the rail before the pump can catch up at such a low rpm/vacuum. Probably the cams though.
 
As in a sound, or does it chug a tiny bit?

If I punch it at like 1000rpms-1100 rpms in gear while rolling it'll chug-a-lug it's ass off. It's still not tuned really in that spot, but from 2500-3000RPM if I pin the gas it goes immediately. There's always been a random lean spot in 1800-2800rpm for me that I've just learned to live with. Could be the cams, or could be the injectors draining the rail before the pump can catch up at such a low rpm/vacuum. Probably the cams though.
Just a sound. Doesn't feel like it's lagging, just a sound like you're rolling the back of your tongue. Although, at 2000rpm it's not exactly breaking tires loose, but chug, no.

I think 2000-2500 is some kind of weird abyss with these motors/cam profiles.

It might even be the design of my exhaust w/ resonator, amplifying certain exhaust pulses. I don't have a gopro mount that can handle the bootylicious 2g ass so it'll be hard to record.
 
Just a sound. Doesn't feel like it's lagging, just a sound like you're rolling the back of your tongue. Although, at 2000rpm it's not exactly breaking tires loose, but chug, no.

I think 2000-2500 is some kind of weird abyss with these motors/cam profiles.

It might even be the design of my exhaust w/ resonator, amplifying certain exhaust pulses. I don't have a gopro mount that can handle the bootylicious 2g ass so it'll be hard to record.

I'll be honest, I haven't really noticed. But now that you've brought it to my attention I'll try to record it.


I've been wanting to record some turbo noises too, so two birds one stone.
 
Working on the fuel system in my Talon. I’m switching over to E85, so swapping the lines over to PTFE -6an. Supposed to get the fittings welded to the sending unit tomorrow. The car had an upgraded pump in it, but I’m tossing in the 295 pump to make sure that I’ll be ready for anything.
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Just a heads up PTFE line runs smaller than regular AN lines. PTFE has an I.D of .312 and 6AN hose .344.
 
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