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Changed out from a black (8.7psi) to white+green (11.6psi) spring combo in the mvs

While it was still attached to the o2 housing.
Boy, that was fun. A strategic use of zip ties made it possible.

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curt-s said:
Changed out from a black (8.7psi) to white+green (11.6psi) spring combo in the mvs

While it was still attached to the o2 housing.
Boy, that was fun. A strategic use of zip ties made it possible.

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Click to expand...
Its only 11 pounds... use your strong had to grip it... LOL

Good work! Been there and can suck!
 
enriquez2000 said:
Its only 11 pounds... use your strong had to grip it... LOL

Good work! Been there and can suck!
Click to expand...
I don't think it directly translates to 11lbs
The area of the valve is more than 1in^2, so wouldn't this require more like 40lbs or so of pressure to collapse the spring entirely into the hat?

Either or, the problem was getting both my hands in there, one to hold and the other to thread in the bolts carefully, all whilst getting stabbed by every sharp corner on the pump and .. well, everything there. i could barely fit one hand in that space, two was a total nonstarter

I say it was still easier than having to try and get the vbands off, given how i rotated them

but its done. if this doesnt solve my lag (using both ports of the IR solenoid) then i have bigger issues and might have to go back to stock cams next year or look for a set of adjustable and then deal with making myself a solid lifter

Frankly stock cams are/were likely sufficient for my goals but I just haaaaaad to say I had cams
Although I do like their sound
 
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Brembo said:
Also finished installing interior pieces. Still more to be done but this is the nices it had ever been.

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Click to expand...
Nice job where do you get that leather cover with the red stitching for the E brake handle really nice looking
 
Brembo said:
That one is Evo VI Tommi Makinen Adddition. Shipped from Japan in oem packaging so I will think that it is authentic. To me, it appears like a 2g style and red stiched made it stand out a bit.
Click to expand...
I kinda like that. Can you still get them?
 
Still trying to wrap my head around the battery relocation wiring and fuel pump re-wire. Posted a separate thread and asking again for the electrical wizards to bless me with some knowledge. Got some great feedback on my OHM harness one and I am so grateful for this community. You guys are making this build happen
 
The DSM demons are hanging out at my garage today. Trying to get this 95 back together. Went to tighten that bottom middle nut on the exhaust manifold...the one that requires a swivel. The swivel came apart and left the socket and half a swivel stuck on the stud. I said forget it and put the tools away. Getting dark anyway. I did get all the timing belt stuff on it and oil in it. Just coolant, Misc harness stuff and covers and I'm about done. Almost forgot I couldn't find the turbo to drain gasket i had on the workbench yesterday. There is NO way I was gonna find one local so i had to make one. BTW all the felpro gasket sets come with td05 gaskets so if you're silly and still have a t25 like me it doesn't fit.
 
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New aftermarket key fob came in today. Tried to get it programmed but couldn't get my car to go into program mode with pins 1 and 4 jumped so ill have to dig into that. Both door locks work, security light comes on dash when i lock the doors from inside, dont know where else to look. Its a spyder so idk if the door lock module is behind the back seat instead of the b pillar behind speaker? IDK. also while i was in there I took the slack out of my worn out headliner straps so its not just flapping in the wind with the windows down LOL. And some more tuning adjustments.
 
Changed clusters, added gauges and did LED underlight.
More in my Build thread.

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Drained gas out of the tank until the pump changed tune, put it in the CX5 daily. I might as well use it somewhere. I could throw in stabilizer but I do this every year and have deja vu writing about it (even writing about writing about it)

We're getting more 93 pumps again, that's going to be so nice next year.

Cut open the oil filter, no surprises. A lot less new build material, and the rest I believe (also hope) is ARP lube breaking down. That shit sticks around for a long time..
ziptied a ziplock bag over the OFH since I dont have a new filter to put on until next year

put the car cover on, will remove the battery later. car goes to sleep for the next 6 months.

curt-s said:
I don't think it directly translates to 11lbs
The area of the valve is more than 1in^2, so wouldn't this require more like 40lbs or so of pressure to collapse the spring entirely into the hat?

Either or, the problem was getting both my hands in there, one to hold and the other to thread in the bolts carefully, all whilst getting stabbed by every sharp corner on the pump and .. well, everything there. i could barely fit one hand in that space, two was a total nonstarter

I say it was still easier than having to try and get the vbands off, given how i rotated them

but its done. if this doesnt solve my lag (using both ports of the IR solenoid) then i have bigger issues and might have to go back to stock cams next year or look for a set of adjustable and then deal with making myself a solid lifter

Frankly stock cams are/were likely sufficient for my goals but I just haaaaaad to say I had cams
Although I do like their sound
Click to expand...
Replying to myself just as a general update. I talk to myself all the time in the garage, why not here?

Yes, it appears to have solved my lag issue. Who knew actuating an external wastegate properly using a 3-port BCS would solve my problem. The increased spring pressure probably also helped counteract exhaust gas pressure helping push that valve open, but the big win was the added pressure from the BCS diverted to the top of the plunger helping to keep it shut until it needed to be opened.

I still don't know where my 3rd gear 20psi point is, but I will next year. I could go 0-20psi on the B16G in well under 500rpm and in under one second, but I don't expect that on this one. It's now a question of which of the two is the more fun street turbo.
 
I took my car out to Mexico and did my first test "run" using my son's Draggy. I SUCK at launching, I mean BUCKING out of the hole. Granted, I've never launched this car since I toasted a stockish clutch in it MANY years ago. Also afraid of breaking something and figuring out how to get home. I only pulled her to 8k and didn't do any gear banging, just hurried the shift as best as possible. I need more practice but don't want to burn up this twin disk, she grabs SUPER GOOD.
I wasn't impressed but the car was seeing knock (pulled out 7* of timing) and still did decent. Did it make me smile?
HELL YES IT DID. Dancing around at 85mph is sketchy, so I need to put my drag radials on after this winter goes by.
This is all running it with a full 3" exhaust and no 2 step, just trying to get her out of the gate.
Working on that tune should bring the car back to her WOT AFR's being on spot.
Marty

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SAUBIK said:
Changed clusters, added gauges and did LED underlight.
More in my Build thread.

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Click to expand...
How did you get the needles to line back up correctly? I always read that it's a real pain to get them back correctly.
 
MindBlowin03 said:
How did you get the needles to line back up correctly? I always read that it's a real pain to get them back correctly.
Click to expand...
I'd like to know too. This is the reason I never change my gauge faces, and just wet sand the back sides without removing the needles for changing light color. My current spyder came with non-oem silver faces, and I don't trust using it for this reason.
 
My car had been running terribly when warm for a while. I tried adjusting the tune, replaced the TPS and CAS pigtails, and even swapped out the IAC, but nothing worked. On a hunch, I decided to replace the new plug wires I’d installed after swapping to a 2G head—and that solved everything! I’m almost certain those NGK wires were either fakes (I got them from Rock Auto) or had a break in one of them. My wife was about ready to make me sell the car and get something newer, but honestly, I'd still rather drive this old, busted DSM without power steering, brakes, or AC than a newer, faster car like a Corvette, 911, or Lotus.
 
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