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If you haven't done so this is your reminder to get you some new lift struts for the rear hatch. Absolute night and day difference. Mine were blown out and bent! Talk about a workout just to open the hatch haha

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I see RTV and the wrong washers on the oil drain. There are little copper crush washers that go between the flanges and the bolts to keep the oil from leaking around them.
I used a little RTV to get the gaskets to stick during the install. I'll check into the crush washers. I'm sure I've got the crush washers in my kit. Neither one of the pickup tubes had those crush washers when I removed them from the motors, wierd. Are there crush washers on the turbo side? Thanks.
 
I'll have to check mine because mine is also broken at the plastic sheath right at where it connects to the bracket for the motor. I don't know if it is stretched though

I used a little RTV to get the gaskets to stick during the install. I'll check into the crush washers. I'm sure I've got the crush washers in my kit. Neither one of the pickup tubes had those crush washers when I removed them from the motors, wierd. Are there crush washers on the turbo side? Thanks.
No. The turbo side isn't a through hole. The oil pan is and that's why it needs crush washers. There are also better ways to get a gasket to stick. Rtv tends to gum up stuff and interfere with a gasket.
I like this stuff but there are other products.
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If you guys missed it I broke one of my throttle cables between the cruise motor at the fender and the box on the firewall. If anybody has one for sale I posted a classified ad. I want to keep cruise. I also broke the brake booster hose. I will put a splice in it. If anybody has one or a better solution I'm all ears.
I'll look and see if I still have that assembly, I think I do.
 
I have now official gone WAY BEYOND what I thought I was getting myself into with this car....but for 4500 dollars I can deal with it haha. Always wanted a project car but I guess it's as the saying goes, be careful what you wish for

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Looked more into how the fuel pumps were set up and...well...that's not stock. Good thing is though is that they aren't running in-line like I originally thought so this gives me the option to run one and the the other as a secondary if needed. Only problem is now I need to look that up and shift gears on wiring it as primary/secondary vs. an inline setup

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Pulled off turbo heat shields and the radiator. Installed 2 new crush washers on coolant banjo bolt. Twisted radiator hoses to get them above the engine, and filled it up with coolant. Nothing leaking from the banjo bolt. But it was coming from that pipe. Looks like it got a tiny split at some point while it was sitting.

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Pulled off turbo heat shields and the radiator. Installed 2 new crush washers on coolant banjo bolt. Twisted radiator hoses to get them above the engine, and filled it up with coolant. Nothing leaking from the banjo bolt. But it was coming from that pipe. Looks like it got a tiny split at some point while it was sitting.

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Ooof.


I wonder could you just delete the banjo bolt and hardline and just go with an AN setup?
 
Ooof.


I wonder could you just delete the banjo bolt and hardline and just go with an AN setup?
I was thinking that. Or cut before/after split, flare it, and just use a piece of silicone hose under turbo. I might even have a U-shaped piece that fits.
However, I think I'm just going to strip off the zinc in the area and hit it with a couple zaps of the MIG. Worst case I destroy that section of the pipe, that's already trash.
 
I was thinking that. Or cut before/after split, flare it, and just use a piece of silicone hose under turbo. I might even have a U-shaped piece that fits.
However, I think I'm just going to strip off the zinc in the area and hit it with a couple zaps of the MIG. Worst case I destroy that section of the pipe, that's already trash.


I think the cutting/flaring it has merit. I've seen someone use a screwdriver to "flare" the end of the fuel feed line in the sending unit of a 1G DSM.


NGL, I did the same thing to mine and it worked great. Lol.
 
I used a little RTV to get the gaskets to stick during the install. I'll check into the crush washers. I'm sure I've got the crush washers in my kit. Neither one of the pickup tubes had those crush washers when I removed them from the motors, wierd. Are there crush washers on the turbo side? Thanks.
These are what I always use on the turbo drain at the pan.

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These are what I always use on the turbo drain at the pan.

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Thanks Marty! Am I correct that these crush washers are installed between the bolt heads and oil return line mounting holes, and not between the oil pan and underside of the oil return line mounting holes? I mentioned in my earlier post that neither the newer motor or old motor had these washers present. I'll check the Haynes manual but, I'm not sure if that particular part is covered.
 
Thanks Marty! Am I correct that these crush washers are installed between the bolt heads and oil return line mounting holes, and not between the oil pan and underside of the oil return line mounting holes? I mentioned in my earlier post that neither the newer motor or old motor had these washers present. I'll check the Haynes manual but, I'm not sure if that particular part is covered.
Under the bolt head
 
I would clean it up with acetone and silver solder it, great fix for tubing cracks !
That, or brazing with a torch. MIG will more than like just blow through the already thin wall.
Good luck! Let us know how it turns out!
 
$12 for shipping seems a little high.


Don't even get me started on this. What these freakin' vendors and businesses charge for shipping is straight up robbery and should be able to be classified as price gouging. I had an american vendor want to charge me essentially $20 for shipping for two capacitors smaller than a dime. TWO. Not twenty, not two hundred. Two. Less than 1 oz combined. And like $15+ for shipping.


I ordered FORTY from china and the combined shipping for both was $5. Got here in like two weeks too. Everyone whined at me to buy american and get what you pay for, but I'm not paying $0.15 for an "american" capacitor and $15 to ship it to me. Had they advertised it was $15 flat rate for capacitor and shipping combined, I may have been a little more inclined.


Meh. I got started anyway.


All the time.
Would be less than 5 bucks to mail those in a bubble envelope.
If you REALLY wanted to be cheap and risk them not arriving at all you could put them in a standard envelope with a stamp or two. I wouldn't recommend this though.


Agreed. I just shipped a shift knob in a 6 x 2.5 x 2.5 box priority mail for like $6. And that's way bigger than some gaskets.
 
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