The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

What did you do to your DSM today?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

I took my car out to Mexico and did my first test "run" using my son's Draggy. I SUCK at launching, I mean BUCKING out of the hole. Granted, I've never launched this car since I toasted a stockish clutch in it MANY years ago. Also afraid of breaking something and figuring out how to get home. I only pulled her to 8k and didn't do any gear banging, just hurried the shift as best as possible. I need more practice but don't want to burn up this twin disk, she grabs SUPER GOOD.
I wasn't impressed but the car was seeing knock (pulled out 7* of timing) and still did decent. Did it make me smile?
HELL YES IT DID. Dancing around at 85mph is sketchy, so I need to put my drag radials on after this winter goes by.
This is all running it with a full 3" exhaust and no 2 step, just trying to get her out of the gate.
Working on that tune should bring the car back to her WOT AFR's being on spot.
Marty

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Good grief. 130mph just rolling it out, not launching it and not shifting fast is nuts. Low 10's all day with nothing else changed except a better launch/better 60'. With it on kill and all conditions proper/met, I'd bet you could trap near 140.
 
Good grief. 130mph just rolling it out, not launching it and not shifting fast is nuts. Low 10's all day with nothing else changed except a better launch/better 60'. With it on kill and all conditions proper/met, I'd bet you could trap near 140.
Check your DM Cory…:sneaky:
 
Good grief. 130mph just rolling it out, not launching it and not shifting fast is nuts. Low 10's all day with nothing else changed except a better launch/better 60'. With it on kill and all conditions proper/met, I'd bet you could trap near 140.
Getting the car to stop pulling timing by 7* will get him to 140.... add a good launch and its going to be a butt pucker. Oh and he wants another 8 pounds of boost 🤷🏿‍♂️
 
Last edited:
Getting the car to stop pulling timing by 7* will get him to 140.... add a good launch and its going to be a butt pucker. Oh and he wants another 8 pounds of boost 🤷🏿‍♂️


You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
How did you get the needles to line back up correctly? I always read that it's a real pain to get them back correctly.
I'd like to know too. This is the reason I never change my gauge faces, and just wet sand the back sides without removing the needles for changing light color. My current spyder came with non-oem silver faces, and I don't trust using it for this reason.
Guys its very simple - just mark it on the motor and stick where they were

Or just remove them, replace whatever you need and start the car, and just put rpm needle to place where normally idle….

For speedo you must go, start maps with gps speed and synchro it with needle 😌

when i bought the car, my needles were moved and inacurate, so i had to remove it and trying to fix … i remember my fuel gauge at full showed something about 1/4 and last owner filled when seen Fuel icon blinking… RPM gauge showed around 1000 rpm less and speedo 50kmh moved down. So in city still showed zero and off the city i droved around 50kmh … in that case i dont need gauges, and started hear motor rpm… in second car my rpm gauge doesnt work and nothing stop me to ride it like bi*** … you just need to know what gear you have and its maximum speed, when you downshift, you must be below max speed at lower gear and downshift….

You must just try and learn … and im proud of myself and my crap car let me learn everything … now im almost finished with my street build N/A Turbo rebuild and still learn things to make them perfect - look to build thread, everything is there… or on my IG - Saubik_Performance
 
In case you didn't see my build thread the car runs again. Needs a few things buttoned but I had to get it to move tonight. Hail storms coming through. It's not perfect but it's close. I'll drive it somewhere this weekend.
 
Pumped my fuel and pulled my injector's. Winter is coming so storage time. Burned a hole 3 gallons this year in the car LOL. Also my injectors after years where plugged up this year and FIC got them going again and told me if a e85 car sits for more then 30 days you need to start it to push the old fuel out the injectors or pull them if it sits longer. Apparently there is a micro seal inside them that shrinks and the fuel in the injector goes bad much faster then fuel in the tank. Buddy's stuck set did not come back to life. 2 of them flowed over 2600cc now and they started life as 2150cc. I would have thought flow went down but apparently it goes up when that seal goes bad.
 
Started wrapping the manifold, we'll see if that keeps the engine bay cooler. Replaced the power steering pump. The moron who owned her before me decided to paint everything in the engine bay red so I've been removing it. I mean, he used latex paint and a paint brush. Literally everything, bolt heads, strut mounts, hose clamps, ecerything...it looked ridiculous in my opinion. Before and after photos attached. What do you guys think looks better?

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
If you guys missed it I broke one of my throttle cables between the cruise motor at the fender and the box on the firewall. If anybody has one for sale I posted a classified ad. I want to keep cruise. I also broke the brake booster hose. I will put a splice in it. If anybody has one or a better solution I'm all ears.
 
If you guys missed it I broke one of my throttle cables between the cruise motor at the fender and the box on the firewall.
In what way did it break (just out of curiosity). I still need to verify all the connectors on my harness but if I don't have a plug for it I could part with the cruise control if no one hits up that classified
 
In what way did it break (just out of curiosity). I still need to verify all the connectors on my harness but if I don't have a plug for it I could part with the cruise control if no one hits up that classified
I must have leaned on it and broke the sheath. You can see where I broke it and stretched it a little so it's pulling the cable taught. I noticed it when I bolted the throttle bracket down and there wasn't enough slack
 
I must have leaned on it and broke the sheath. You can see where I broke it and stretched it a little so it's pulling the cable taught. I noticed it when I bolted the throttle bracket down and there wasn't enough slack
I'll have to check mine because mine is also broken at the plastic sheath right at where it connects to the bracket for the motor. I don't know if it is stretched though
 
Started wrapping the manifold, we'll see if that keeps the engine bay cooler. Replaced the power steering pump. The moron who owned her before me decided to paint everything in the engine bay red so I've been removing it. I mean, he used latex paint and a paint brush. Literally everything, bolt heads, strut mounts, hose clamps, ecerything...it looked ridiculous in my opinion. Before and after photos attached. What do you guys think looks better?

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Looks much better without all that red.
 
Put coolant in it and started looking for leaks.

Something is leaking from around the banjo bolt on the turbo, but I don't see any coolant around the bolt itself.
I'm willing to bet that the crush washer(s) need to be replaced. Might as well replace the crush washer on the oil cooler line as well. Check to see that the banjo bolt(s) are not loose. It won't take too much torque to tighten them down. Be careful so you don't snap the head off the banjo bolt by over tightening. Also, check the condition of the banjo bolt(s). I had one that the previous owner had that was too short to maintain a good seal.
 
Been breaking down this 4g64 spyder engine. Acquired the car a years ago. Guy said he rain it hot and never messed with it after. But yeah this engine was ran hot that's for sure. Timing looked good befor removing the head. One piston has a hole in it, and one piston has melted/broken edges.. the smell... taken it apart is definitely a smell of its own. side walls have some groves in them towards the top on both bad pistons. Took the pan off and found the bits to the piston in the oil of course. Have a few engine i wanna take apart and frankenstein a engine together. Breakibg this down has me excited to break down these 2 other engines i have I will get there soon enough.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Did some soldering on a circuit board for the first time in my life. Used some spare wire as a solder wick. Worked okay enough to have this happen.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

:D Fixed my passing control relay by soldering on a new capacitor to replace the swollen old one. This is an awesome feeling!
 
Cleaned up the engine bay, removed all that idiotic red paint the previous owner put on EVERYTHING. Started wrapping in exhaust manifold, 1st attempt. Replaced the oil pickup tube gaskets since it was leaking.

Routine maintenance and repairs before any performance upgrades, if I decide to do any. It should go without saying that it's foolish to upgrade without performing basic maintenance first.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top