What did you do to your DSM today?

[19Eclipse90]

Pardon my technical intrusion, for those who may be interested.

This is for a 6-bolt. Assuming my model is correct and that I didn’t just model it to where this would work - the grenade pin method works because:

The distance to the tip of the hydraulic tensioner to the center of the hole in the push rod is 6mm.

The distance from the center of the hole in the body to the reference ledge of the body is 2.3165mm.

The hole in the body is 1.833mm, larger than the 1.5875mm (1/16”) hole in the push rod.

When the hole in the push rod is tangent with the top of the hole in the body (i.e., the through pin diameter matches that of the push rod, which is unlikely in reality), the top of the push rod is 3.806mm from the reference edge of the body which is the bottom of the spec.

It is not possible to use a larger through pin than 1/16” because it will not fit through the hole in the push rod. Using a smaller pin will move the top of the push rod up, further into the acceptable range. The smallest diameter grenade pin that can be used and still meet this spec is 0.9mm diameter.

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Again, I’m pretty sure I didn’t worry about this when modeling it and just went straight off my measurements. But it was a year and a half ago.

And, I guess it should be mentioned again, this is assuming the arm is flat and dimple-free. Also, no considerations given for the grenade pin deflecting when loaded (pin is considered rigid).

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Yeah but up here your $20 is like $30.. things are bigger north of the border.
Except obesity. But we're catching up.


I feel like you're translating just for me. I'm touched. Except 228.6mm is 22.86cm. that's a helluva gap

My eyesight is going, along with my hearing.......At least we all got a chuckle out of it and I did just do it for fun anyway
AND....Brian comes in with a full blown picture. Dam I sure am an antique.

 

[steve]

Assuming my model is correct and that I didn’t just model it to where this would work - the grenade pin method works because:

I should have added lazy to the list above. I never modeled it, I just did it and then checked the result on the car. Once I then knew it was correct I recommended it in whatever timing belt threads I replied to. Who I heard the technique from originally is lost to necrotic brain tissue but it's so much easier to tension the pulley until the pin moved freely, spin and wait, then check again that I've been doing it that way ever since. With the tensioner pulley tool it's pretty easy to add or subtract tension until you get it right and then lock down the pulley.

Note I don't pull the pin until I know it's right. If the pin doesn't move I know another cycle is required so no headache trying to put the pin back in and no need for the silly threaded rod.

Thank you Brian!

 

[chrisman287]

No one wanted these so they went on my car

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[stealthee]

Got home yesterday and decided to give the interior a quick go.

Pulled the front seats and it was dirty.

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Gave it a quick vacuum

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Then I decided to hit it with a quick wash. Sprayed it down, put the drill brush to it, then extraction.

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It's far from perfect but not bad for 30 minutes of work. I'm going to give it one more go tomorrow with some Purple Power instead of regular carpet cleaner.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I know you can't pull it out, but my son used to work for a detailer and they would pull it and take it to the car wash, wash on HOT SOAP and they ended up looking "almost" new (and smelling nice too). Just what I've seen done is all. Yours still looks alot better!

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

Anybody measured the distance when you can slide the pin in straight through?

Edit:
Found this

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/timing-belt-question.513159/post-153657194

So, if it can be verified, it looks like the pin hole alignment coincides with a measurement that falls in the range. If this is indeed true (I won't be able to test until much later, maybe @1990TSIAWDTALON can because I think his engine is still on the stand), then this is your shortcut.

I've heard the pin method for the last 15+ years. It would be funny if everyone was wrong all these years

Pin free movement height on a 95 tensioner

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1.5mm

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5mm

 

[pieceofcloth]

For something like that to be measured, I'd use a gauge feeler. Its a tight space to place a micrometer (caliper) for me.

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[Diamond Star Werks]

FWIW I have slowly tensioned the eccentric pulley till the pin moved freely and left it there for years. I've always been able to come back and put the/a pin back in after a year or three. I do this as I don't believe the hydraulic pressure on the arm changes much at all between these heights. So the pressure on the belt is the same whether I let it out to FSM height or if I compress till pin is free. Difference being if my tensioner fails with the free pin height, the space between this and bottoming out the tensioner is not enough to allow my belt to jump. Kevlar belt or factory, no issues with either.

For something like that to be measured, I'd use a gauge feeler. Its a tight space to place a micrometer for me.

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The gods of exactness shine upon you.

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1.4mm

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

I've just been cleaning parts and removing items from engine bay. Whatever I get a dry day I'll be removing the rust from leaked battery acid and prepping the bay for the paint that just came in today.

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[curt-s]

Pin free movement height on a 95 tensioner

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1.5mm

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5mm

I just measured a 533 (6-bolt) that has many years on it, and a brand new one just out of it's packaging, and I get 11/64 from top of body to top of pin when the holes are aligned by the grenade pin (or a sufficiently thin allen wrench).

So that's 0.171in, which is between the range of .150 and .177. AKA 4.34mm
The grenade pin method lands me right in the accepted range quoted right in this thread a couple times.

I took a look at some MD308587 on the interwebs, which I understand is the early 2G version, and every picture shows more extension with the grenade pin in than you do. So I'm not sure what is going on there but it doesn't look correct.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

I took a look at some MD308587 on the interwebs, which I understand is the early 2G version, and every picture shows more extension with the grenade pin in than you do. So I'm not sure what is going on there but it doesn't look correct.

Let me find my pin and and I'll double check.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

I took a look at some MD308587 on the interwebs, which I understand is the early 2G version, and every picture shows more extension with the grenade pin in than you do.

Lost my pin apparently or just forgot where I put it. So I used an Allen instead, 5/64 I think.

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Goes all the way through.

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I forgot I hadn't rotated the engine yet as I was just checking things the other day. So I went ahead and did two rotations and took another measurement. 1.8mm-1.85mm from the body after two rotations.

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Both tensioner and arm were bought new OE from JNZ I think. They still have very low miles on them. I see what you mean though, if you look them up it does appear that on some the rod protrudes more but other pictures some look just like mine.

So, IDK what to say about that.

 

[curt-s]

I would adjust your tension then to fall within the range prescribed by the FSM for that particular 7bolt. Clearly the grenade pin method doesn't work with your tensioner's rod. I've not seen a rod with the hole that close to the crown but I've dealt strictly with 6 bolts.

 

[cswindel]

I've just been cleaning parts and removing items from engine bay. Whatever I get a dry day I'll be removing the rust from leaked battery acid and prepping the bay for the paint that just came in today.

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Its...it's a 7 bolt windage tray...my goodness

 

[steve]

Its...it's a 7 bolt windage tray...my goodness

And cookies!

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

Its...it's a 7 bolt windage tray...my goodness

A modified 7 bolt windage tray

 

[chrisman287]

Sucks I can’t get a good picture of them because of the reflection but they look badass in person

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[Diamond Star Werks]

And cookies!

The best part

Sucks I can’t get a good picture of them because of the reflection but they look badass in person

Sucks I can’t get a good picture of them because of the reflection but they look badass in person

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Those look good! I've been trying to get a good pair of 2ga headlights that didn't cost half my kidney for awhile.

 

[19Eclipse90]

I should have added lazy to the list above. I never modeled it, I just did it and then checked the result on the car. Once I then knew it was correct I recommended it in whatever timing belt threads I replied to. Who I heard the technique from originally is lost to necrotic brain tissue but it's so much easier to tension the pulley until the pin moved freely, spin and wait, then check again that I've been doing it that way ever since. With the tensioner pulley tool it's pretty easy to add or subtract tension until you get it right and then lock down the pulley.

Note I don't pull the pin until I know it's right. If the pin doesn't move I know another cycle is required so no headache trying to put the pin back in and no need for the silly threaded rod.

Whoever figured it out made sure that the FSM, at least in later years, mentioned it. This screen grab is the ‘97 FSM. That note, interestingly enough, is not found in the ‘95 FSM.

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Pin free movement height on a 95 tensioner

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1.5mm

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5mm

This is interesting and I’m not sure what to make of it. Perhaps this is the difference between the early ‘95 tensioner and later 2G tensioners that we simply haven’t realized all this time? Unfortunately, all the pictures of the tensioners I can find are in the compressed state. It looks like the thru-hole on yours is much nearer the crown as @curt-s mentioned. And because that note of being able to move the pin freely is missing from the manual, maybe that’s why they didn’t use that tensioner very long and superseded it with the later version. I may need to check the ‘96 FSM to see if that note appears there.

EDIT: The 96 manual does not have any note regarding the setting wire (grenade pin), only the protrusion measurement.

MD308086, the later tensioner, looks like this and falls into the same spec as the 6-bolt.

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I wonder…

 

[steve]

Whoever figured it out made sure that the FSM, at least in later years, mentioned it. This screen grab is the ‘97 FSM. That note, interestingly enough, is not found in the ‘95 FSM.

Lot of changes to the procedure between the original FSM, the TSB's and the later manuals.

I want to say that the techs at the dealership were the ones that shared this tip with me but I can't say with any conviction. I wouldn't be surprised, I had a good relationship with the service manager and his techs. Time saving tips usually got passed around and it doesn't take long for the grapevine to travel 150 miles to the factory or the reverse.

 

[pauleyman]

Considering the amount of money mitsu shelled out for the early 1g timing belt failures and recall I'm sure they wanted to make sure to minimize losses. I had a 1 owner 90 and I was subjected to the timing belt recall. I got my belt replaced for free at 60k. The recall did not include the balance shaft belt. I INSISTED they do the balance belt also and would pay for it. Guess what, they "forgot". I ended up having to redo the whole job myself. I was pissed.
I knew a car lot owner that had about 80% DSMs on his lot. Most of them timing belt victim cars he picked up at auction cheap and had them fixed for free under recall. He made a fortune.

 

[CrackedDSM]

We called the dealerships "Satan" and "stealerships" for a reason.

 

[thebearded1der]

Aftermarket headlights, taillights, and signal markers. She'll be sexy once she gets on the road again.

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[19Eclipse90]

Lot of changes to the procedure between the original FSM, the TSB's and the later manuals.

I want to say that the techs at the dealership were the ones that shared this tip with me but I can't say with any conviction. I wouldn't be surprised, I had a good relationship with the service manager and his techs. Time saving tips usually got passed around and it doesn't take long for the grapevine to travel 150 miles to the factory or the reverse.

True. Claudio was the tech we came to trust at our local dealership, while it was around. Learned quite a few things early on from him.

I’m really conjecturing over here and maybe shooting at nothing, but it was an interesting enough question. Now that I sit down for a minute and think it all through, despite not mentioning that note, the ‘95 manual does state the same 3.8-4.5mm spec. To your point, it could be a revised version. Or it could be that the spec was always the same which makes the tensioner pic posted by @Diamond Star Werks that much more intriguing to me.