What did you do to your DSM today?

[chrisman287]

Changed the oil and fixed a tiny leak I had at the turbo drain. Dudes used RTV instead of the gasket at the oil pan They had the fitting upside down too

Also mounted the quick release bumper brackets. I’ll drill the bumper tomorrow waiting on HEF bumper risers to come in

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[Pjj]

Did an oil change, did a boost leak test after putting my TRE built trans in the car for the season. Just need to get my hands on a Morrison fab stock replacement manifold now

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[cswindel]

Did an oil change, did a boost leak test after putting my TRE built trans in the car for the season. Just need to get my hands on a Morrison fab stock replacement manifold now

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

That engine bay is the goal my guy. Very clean!

 

[curt-s]

Dropped the rotating assembly off at the shop to do a complete balance. It's still "cold" out so I'm not assembling anything until I get some nicer temps and that's at least a month away. I have some time to kill given their turnaround time is 2mo or less (dirt track season prep has already started and they're backlogged as usual at this time of year).

 

[enriquez2000]

Found some 10.2mm wires.. ohm'd out the difference with ngk and these at 20k setting

Ngk at 20k was 5.54
These at 20k were 0.11

This was on the #4 plug wire for both to use the longest possible for readings

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Received parts today miscellaneous stuff being done.

 

[chrisman287]

Bumper risers done alone with the bumper releases and the support bracket

Took it up the block to get $40 of 93. This thing runs good when it wants to it’s so annoying

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Finally got to touch the talon. I removed the arp bolts to replace them with the OEM ones.


They came out without a struggle via my impact but had a ton of red loctite on them.

Does anyone have a tip or trick you learned to clean cured red loctite from inside the bolt holes on the crank? I tried a bristle brush and some brake cleaner but that didn’t seem to budge it. Will a cleaning tap make short work of it? Is there something that dissolves it?

 

[RamenPride]

Found some 10.2mm wires.. ohm'd out the difference with ngk and these at 20k setting

Ngk at 20k was 5.54
These at 20k were 0.11

This was on the #4 plug wire for both to use the longest possible for reading

Care to share what brand these are? Just put in a new set of NGK's and not looking to buy new plug wires, just curious.

 

[enriquez2000]

Care to share what brand these are? Just put in a new set of NGK's and not looking to buy new plug wires, just curious.

They are VMS. Im always skeptical. Ive only used ngks for years but the resistance readings are promising. Of course there are several factors other than resistance on performance but I was impressed initially

 

[CrackedDSM]

Finally got to touch the talon. I removed the arp bolts to replace them with the OEM ones.


They came out without a struggle via my impact but had a ton of red loctite on them.

Does anyone have a tip or trick you learned to clean cured red loctite from inside the bolt holes on the crank? I tried a bristle brush and some brake cleaner but that didn’t seem to budge it. Will a cleaning tap make short work of it? Is there something that dissolves it?

To answer my own question, soak the holes in brake clean and tape over them to prevent it evaporating. Wait like 10 mins ish, come back with a cleaning/chasing tap, and bam. Holes are perfect now. The brake clean actually softened the loctite and made it break down into the tap easier.

 

[GHSTII]

Dropped by the Toyota stealership for one of their fuel pump seals, and finished installing a Walbro 525. Wasn't as bad of an install as I was afraid it might be.

 

[curt-s]

Dropped by the Toyota stealership for one of their fuel pump seals, and finished installing a Walbro 525. Wasn't as bad of an install as I was afraid it might be.

Pics of the hanger? I'm always curious how other walbro pumps sit because it always feels like I have to jump through every hoop just to get a like sized or smaller pump on and secured, with the AWD tank being even more of a problem than my old 1g fwd tank.

 

[GHSTII]

I didn’t take a photo from an angle that would show that before dropping it back in the tank
I did have fitment issues at first, but DSMThunder’s (on YT) method with the Toyota seal worked like a charm. Nice and snug without having to mod the whole hanging unit.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Replaced door switch, today ugg but its done.

 

[voodoogsx]

Ordered parts for my car from Mitsubishi dealership, and they still could get them! Nothing big, just the nut and bolt for the lower front damper fork. I somehow stripped the nut, and well, figured I'd get both since these were original parts on the car.

 

[curt-s]

Started disassembling the head so I can get it resurfaced. For anyone using this tool, I found it easiest to put the head on its side, screw down that stud so it pushes the valve open a few mm, then push the valve from underneath with your finger to get it to release. Don't just screw it down with the head flat otherwise the valve goes into whatever the head is resting on.
Not that it would bend a valve (likely not...) but its counterproductive since those keepers jam in there good

I didn't have baggies or my magnet nearby so I just kinda stopped
But I at least started something today


On a second note, has anybody used copper crush washers in place of the OE aluminum ones for 6bolt squirters? I'm just wondering.. I'll see if I can find a set from the local Mopar dealerships, but next cheapest option is amayama from japan. It's more expensive to order from the USA..

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[chrisman287]

Mounted my battery finally. Wish I had bought a rivnut tool years ago. Waiting on some 0 gauge cable to come

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[Imback]

Bumper risers done alone with the bumper releases and the support bracket

Took it up the block to get $40 of 93. This thing runs good when it wants to it’s so annoying

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Sheesh are those plates still good? I haven't seen those in years .

 

[chrisman287]

Sheesh are those plates still good? I haven't seen those in years .

Nah I just use them to ride around

 

[pieceofcloth]

Started disassembling the head so I can get it resurfaced. For anyone using this tool, I found it easiest to put the head on its side, screw down that stud so it pushes the valve open a few mm, then push the valve from underneath with your finger to get it to release. Don't just screw it down with the head flat otherwise the valve goes into whatever the head is resting on.
Not that it would bend a valve (likely not...) but its counterproductive since those keepers jam in there good

I didn't have baggies or my magnet nearby so I just kinda stopped
But I at least started something today


On a second note, has anybody used copper crush washers in place of the OE aluminum ones for 6bolt squirters? I'm just wondering.. I'll see if I can find a set from the local Mopar dealerships, but next cheapest option is amayama from japan. It's more expensive to order from the USA..

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

I have some of those oem washers laying around if needed. I also have a few sets of the squirters as well. Lmk how many you need and I'll send them thru.

 

[cswindel]

Has anyone ever used a crystal lye drain cleaner to clean out manifolds? Thought behind using it is that if it is safe on household pvc pipes then it should be fine with metals. However I did look into the hazards and safety sheet and with the main chemical being sodium hydroxide, it can react with aluminum to create hydrogen gas but doesn't specifically state adverse effects to the metals molecular structure. I have so much oil and debris caked up in the exhaust manifold I need something a little aggressive to break it down

 

[enriquez2000]

Has anyone ever used a crystal lye drain cleaner to clean out manifolds? Thought behind using it is that if it is safe on household pvc pipes then it should be fine with metals. However I did look into the hazards and safety sheet and with the main chemical being sodium hydroxide, it can react with aluminum to create hydrogen gas but doesn't specifically state adverse effects to the metals molecular structure. I have so much oil and debris caked up in the exhaust manifold I need something a little aggressive to break it down

I paid a shop $50 to vapor mine. Worth every penny. And came out looking new inside and out. Few years ago so not sure what the going rates are.

 

[pauleyman]

Has anyone ever used a crystal lye drain cleaner to clean out manifolds? Thought behind using it is that if it is safe on household pvc pipes then it should be fine with metals. However I did look into the hazards and safety sheet and with the main chemical being sodium hydroxide, it can react with aluminum to create hydrogen gas but doesn't specifically state adverse effects to the metals molecular structure. I have so much oil and debris caked up in the exhaust manifold I need something a little aggressive to break it down

Your logic is very flawed. Safe for pvc so it's safe for metal??? No. Lye eats aluminum. Doesn't mean people don't use it. Leave it on long enough lye does damage aluminum. Your exhaust manifold is cast iron. You can use it but oven cleaner would be easier. It's Also lye and you can spray it on.

 

[cswindel]

Yeah and I didnt trust that logic which is why I turned to looking at the data sheet. I have heard of using the oven cleaner but with it being lye as well you are still subject to the adverse effects of the chemical. I figured with the drain cleaner I could at least have better and more even coverage with it being a powder (I did not preface this but the oil is on the inside of the manifold, not exterior). I'm not opposed to taking it to a shop to be cleaned but its an hour away. Just looking into ways I can resolve the issue on my end but don't really like the chance I could be taking with all that has been said.

Edit - looking more into it, though, it seems that sodium hydroxide does not react with cast iron. It has the potential to degrade finishes but I'm not too worried about the "finish" of the inside of the runners. I will look more into it but it seems like a decent route to try and report back on with findings