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I just took a read of their site, it says:

"Fuel Injector Clinic has developed a specialized flow bench in collaboration with ECMTuning, Inc., which accurately measures the microscopic volume of fluid dispensed while it is being operated by a car’s ECU. This method provides tuners with the best possible injector data to successfully tune their cars."


I'm beginning to think their newer data may be more accurate than we think. Otherwise, this would suggest ecmtuning is complicit with their partner providing incorrect data that underpins their PnP claims. It's curious to say the least.
Fwiw my fic "data" has always been close when adding deadtimes to DA tables direct from their sheets.

My current fic 2150s only needed 30 deadtime added(in addition to modified da) to make all numbers line up to spec at idle
 
Permanently mounted new billet thermo housing. Waiting on a 3mm thick wrench to squeeze into a tight spot.

Replaced 10yr old wideband sensor and fan temp sensor.

Ready to add coolant and make sure fans kick on once warmed up. Then back to breaking in with driving.

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Bench grinder. instant 3mm thick wrench.
 
Whats the result?
Magnus manifold seems to have been slightly ported already, ports are approximately +/-62.5mm X 39.5mm, the head ports measure +/-61.3mm X 37.5mm. I’ll be doing some more measuring with the gasket and see how they match up. Thinking I’ll clean the head up around the edges just a bit to make it a perfectly smooth transition. 6 bolt build planning on 600hp with built block and head with a new FP Black force feeding it!
 
Wrote "Free trips to Gapplebees" in the dust on the hatch so all the idiotic lifted trucks on my road can see it.


Also gearing up for my trip to Daytona Beach. Gonna end up driving back home after the weekend(if all goes well) with TWO good transmissions for the price of one.

Really hope in a few weeks I can make a post in this thread that says something along the lines of "drove it" but with a lot more excited emojis and censored cursing.
 
Went back and re-did the tensioner pulley process and now the pin is sliding in and out very nicely. Now I have to pulle out my interior to sort through this wicked wiring mess

the pin isnt the measuring stick for setting proper tensioner arm gap. you should not be estimating tensioner arm gap by your ability to slide the pin in and out of the hydraulic tensioner. youre measuring the gap of the tensioner arm to the body of the tensioner then rotating 3 revolutions and waiting 15-30 minutes to test resting arm gap

figure 21 in the picture to the right

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Anybody measured the distance when you can slide the pin in straight through?

Edit:
Found this

So, if it can be verified, it looks like the pin hole alignment coincides with a measurement that falls in the range. If this is indeed true (I won't be able to test until much later, maybe @1990TSIAWDTALON can because I think his engine is still on the stand), then this is your shortcut.

I've heard the pin method for the last 15+ years. It would be funny if everyone was wrong all these years LOL
 
That is interesting, thank you for posting that.


ecmtuning.com/forums/showthread.php?t=91090

ok.
If thats my post over there it was a faulty 02 sensor giving me false readings. Started sticking at full lean shortly after that post and resettinh itself like it was warming up again.

Dead over there so never bothered to update. My bad
 
Just take a tensioner and see how far the hydraulic piece sticks out. The arm should be flat so if you can put the pin in the grenade, the gap is exactly how far the piece sticks out. It's probably wrong but I've done it this way for 20 years.
 
The grenade pin hole in the hydraulic tensioner shaft is slightly higher than the grenade pin hole in the body when set per the factory service manual.

The absolutely vital part is rotating the engine several times, then waiting, to verify the depth has not changed

I only mention the FSM depth because I memorized that bi*** for a reason. Follow it or don't, but you can assume I now realize you're just eyeballing the rest of your build 🤣
 
Rotating it, absolutely, I don't think anybody believes you just set once and leave it.
If so, yikes!

I've just only ever done the set, rotate 6 times, wait 30 minutes minimum, then recheck. If nothing's changed, I know it's set right.

If it's too loose, the rod moves outward and you can't insert the pin back in.
Too tight and the rod goes in and you can't insert the pin.

If there's a balance, the rod doesn't move at all. I believe the distance measurement is right at that point but honestly I don't remember ever measuring it.

I only mention the FSM depth because I memorized that bi*** for a reason. Follow it or don't, but you can assume I now realize you're just eyeballing the rest of your build 🤣

Ok. You have my blessing to believe that. It doesn't bother me. ;)
 
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Ok. You have my blessing to believe that. It doesn't bother me. ;)

LOL How ever shall I go on without some random dude named chrysler kid's approval for my build. Opinions on the internet mean everything to me! ROFL
 
I still have it accessible so I can get in there with micrometers and verify. I did read that part in the FSM, but the pin method seems to be the route of choice by the majority. I'm not against taking a quick measurement though to verify the results of utilizing the pin method. Would make me feel better if anything.
 
Also, not to double post the same pic, but is anyone familiar with these gauges? They have little control boxes/computers (on the kick panel) for each gauge and i want to look more into them to make sure I wire them and set them up properly. I really want to keep these for the setup But don't know the model of them to look much up for diagrams, specs, etc. Also want to see if anyone has experience with using these for real world guidance/info

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yeah they are greddy gauges and the boxes are the brains of them

I cant give you a single pinout explanation, but the wires go from the gauge to the box, and then from the box to the sensor. the box sends power to the gauge and sensor. you will need to google then to find the greddy gauge wiring diagrams

the greddy are nice gauges, but nearly impossible now to find a 60mm gauge pod setup now, since the greddy are larger diameter than any other brans
 
Okay I was on that train of thought but wanted to confirm that part. I'm not well versed in this stuff so I want to work as little on "I think..." as possible. I'll look more into the gauges but at least having that understanding established can help
 
I still have those Greddy gauges in use (The EGT and Boost that is). I still may have the OG paper work, I can go look through my stuff in the next couple days. Sensor->Brain box->Gauge. They have Peak/Hold feature as well as a warning, they came with a little tool to set the warning by pushing in warning button and dialing it to where you want to set it at.

Greddy still has the manuals on their website, not the best but at least a frame of reference.

Greddy Gauges
 
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