outlawdsm
15+ Year Contributor
- 101
- 1
- Feb 20, 2005
-
719,
Colorado
Hey Phil, are you going to the E-town shootout on the 23rd? If so are you bringing the car?
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Ahhhh, yeah I know Cali is tough. For some reason, most likely the lack of an I/C set-up you're running, I thought the VR4 of yours was a full race effort, I didn't think it was doubling as a road car as well.......wow, 4" aluminum on the Talon, that's pretty sick! Well, hope you have a go at it soon....

Hey Phil, are you going to the E-town shootout on the 23rd? If so are you bringing the car?
The Galant will be my daily
Ahh, I was hoping to see your car, oh well.
I'll be there to spectate with my 14b car. Look for a white 1gb with colorado plates, my 2g talon is still in colorado. ( 92 talon,1g rods, 2g pistons, mls headgasket, arp head studs, no balance shafts, ported 2g exhaust manifold, ported turbine housing, 3in turbo back exhaust, alamo smic, mbc, phenolic intake manifold spacer, 2g throttle body elbow, prothane mounts, no AC, act 6 puck, innovate wideband, safc2, walboro255 )








wow.... is all I have to say. Congrats on what was all set up to be another FAST run. Sorry to hear about the 14b giving up. all things happen for a reason. I have a 14b turbo right now on my friends talon with over 200k on it and its been running 18-21 for 4 years now and its still strong now with a 16g turbine housing on it. Do you have plans to install another 14b or step things up to a 16g? I know your a busy man but ofcourse when time allows.

So, the next time the car hits the strip in 2011, I expect weight to be closer to 2200 even. My goal was to be under 2500 total weight, so that has been met.
Wonder how far into the woods that thing went. They didn't find it on the track so....... That's a bummer but it comes with the territory. Also, the nut that secures the compressor wheel to the shaft had all it's threads in place, there was a nick at the top area, wonder if that sucker came loose and caused the failure....hmmm......wondering if I remember pneumo mentioning that happend to his.....either way, turbo no worky anymore

).Great day though, eh Phil? Pleasant surprise to see you there
And as I said before, I'm actually excited that the turbo blew. All that means to me is that you have more power coming your way without changing anything, BUT a rebuild on the turbo. In general, turbo's don't go from full power, working to full efficiency to blowing out wheels in a run or two (unless of course you starve it of oil or something catastrophic happens which wasn't the case here). So that leads me to believe that you did not have full efficiency of that turbo when you did you 11.4 run!
So, therefore, if-so-fatso, haybius corpses, you will have more power when you put another turbo on there (and it will be a 14b. Remember I know where you live).
Again, a fun day had by all.
MB
Wow! Sounds like quite a day! The way I see it, with as far as you have been on the 14 and the experience that you have, why change now? I say, keep pushing the 14b to the limits!

Thanks Mark for the encouragement as always....for those that don't know, this guy holds the record for the quickest NA DSM....see his avatar...and he went out yesterday and hit 13.1 for a new record and personal best.
. In this special case, it would be more efficient for you to use what you already have available. You will pick up some major power with the swap, and it will not cost you more. Those 550cc injectors and an SAFC will take you pretty far on race gas.AgreedI vote 14b with 7cm turbine housing, then cams, then balance shafts, then DSMLink, then higher compression, then 16g

. Its always easier to see stuff with 2 sets of eyes on a run, instead of just one set (in the car). I was just noticing that and thinking dang, that N/T is spanking my turbo times. I've got to step it up. Those are some great times though!
Wow Phil, Im surprised and happy! not at all surprised that your 14b turbo "has left the building", but surprised and happy to hear you got back to the track this year and made a good showing. That's pretty insane to pull a car out of long term storage of nearly a full year and pull off runs within a tenth of your best ever pass.
My vote for replacement: put the E3 16g that you already have on the car and go run it the same as you have now for mechanical bits. It would be very very informative and cool to see that "back to back" change of only the turbo. I think E3 16g racing will give you that same incremental performance goal that you have with the 14b but at a much faster pace. I bet you would be in the 10.8's with no trouble on nothing other than a cartridge swap and possibly a bump to 650's w/ a chip or afc adjustment.
Since you don't get to run the car much, it would also be nice to start the 2011 season with a brand new MHI turbo that you know should last you the entire year with no worries. Compared to pulling another 20 year old 14b off the parts trader and blowing it to smitherines possibly on your first pass and wasting one of your rare days at the track. IMHO something fresh and new might re-invigorate your itch to race when you can gain big instead of only trying to chip off a hundreth.
That sounds like a fun track day, with awesome results, as always. I would stick with the 14B, and go all out with it. Like you mentioned, there is plenty of power left on the table for you to have fun with. And, 14B's are not too hard to get hold of. Once you do all the mods and get all the power that you can from a 14B, you can use that same setup with a 16G and keep the power coming. Good luck, with whichever choice you go with. Keep us updated.
Edit*
That is right, as Nate has mentioned, you have brand new 16G. This makes the decision a bit harder, because we all love 14B's. In this special case, it would be more efficient for you to use what you already have available. You will pick up some major power with the swap, and it will not cost you more. Those 550cc injectors and an SAFC will take you pretty far on race gas.
Ok, so another vote for stick with the 14, check!I vote 14b with 7cm turbine housing, then 16g.
I want to see real-world gains by swapping out the stock housing.
Your car being a 1990 most likely had a right-hand threaded turbine shaft (part number ending in 01010 on the compressor cover). The right-hand threaded turbine was only used on 1990 models to my knowledge.-local 420A DSM guru Bullett stopped over and we pulled the intake pipe, the nut that secures the compressor wheel to the shaft fell on the ground with a bit of oil, and there was the confirmation...it was now that we realized what the track worker handed me was the broken shaft that got spat out the exhaust.
Agreed
Phil thanks for the kind words. I've really enjoyed being a part of your "research" on the limits of the 14b on a stocker engine. Its always easier to see stuff with 2 sets of eyes on a run, instead of just one set (in the car).
Its also easier when I say something like "Try hitting that shift point at 100rpm higher" and then you go out and do exactly the same run but with that shift point right at 100rpm higherGiving input is one thing, but transfering it to the track so consistantly is the part that is difficult.
Yup, spring time, here we come......
MB

. We were right. What a difference. 


Your car being a 1990 most likely had a right-hand threaded turbine shaft (part number ending in 01010 on the compressor cover). The right-hand threaded turbine was only used on 1990 models to my knowledge.
If you get a replacement 14B, make sure the part number on the cover ends in 01030 or 01410 so the turbine will be left-hand threaded and the nut will not fall off again from excessive boost!
Because if I get a 14b freshly rebuilt and throw the 7cm housing on immediately, we won't know exactly if the gain came from the housing, the rebuild, or in part to each. Obviously, I'd want to throw that sucker right on there. But, to get the hard results I think you are after......may need to run my 6cm and the 7cm----on the same turbo..........thoughts?
.
Your car being a 1990 most likely had a right-hand threaded turbine shaft (part number ending in 01010 on the compressor cover). The right-hand threaded turbine was only used on 1990 models to my knowledge.
If you get a replacement 14B, make sure the part number on the cover ends in 01030 or 01410 so the turbine will be left-hand threaded and the nut will not fall off again from excessive boost!
I agree, but at the same time I DOUBT that there was much left in the old 14b. I think you must have been running it near it's potential with the mph you were putting down.
If you would like to test it the real way I'm all for it, but if you're like me and don't like doing unnecessary work just to test an idea, then I'd just throw the 7cm the first time.
But, I really do like to see what every little change gives, or takes from the set-up. And, with how little is in the way in my car, a turbine housing swap is 15-20 minutes at the most, not including any draining or refilling of fluids. Nonetheless, time is everything for me lately, so, I will probably just cut to the chase.
) but do you believe one can even come close to those numbers (11s) by having a 14b on a full weight 2g AWD with all supporting mods (fuel, V3, SMIM, FP mani, full but catted 3" exhaust, FMIC, stock tranny, stock 7 bolt etc.)?