2G Slow Auto Tips

[Tyler Davis]

Hello,

I’m super new to Link and Drag racing so I’m gonna sound dumb but just took my car to the strip on a pretty conservative tune but I have no low end at all. It’s a 7 bolt with a crank out of the galant which I believe makes it a 2.3 with an FP Red but it did a 2.8 60ft. I didn’t launch at all but that still seems pretty horrible. Ended up with a 15.1 @ 106. Only on 14lbs of boost so the trap speed I was ok with. I can post a log if wanted, but just wanted to know if anyone had any tips or what to look out for when it comes to the autos.

Mod list will be on my profile as well

Thanks

 

[pauleyman]

You answered tour own question.
" I didn't launch at all"

4 cyl, even a prepped dsm, doesn't have low end.

 

[Tyler Davis]

You answered tour own question.
" I didn't launch at all"

4 cyl, even a prepped dsm, doesn't have low end.

Ah damn I was hoping I could get away with atleast a decent run no launch, but the thing is a snail until like 3200 or so. Damn low compression motors

 

[CrackedDSM]

Need way more info on the build. What converter is in the car? With an FP Red if it’s stock then it’s gonna be an absolute dog.


Easy way to test this, try out a brake boost launch. Put the car in neutral, and put your foot on the brake and yank the e brake handle. Rev the gas a little, just to about 3k or so and press the brake hard while you’re doing this. You should feel the brake pedal go down more.

Stop revving it but keep holding those brakes. Put the car in L(or first) and then while still holding the brakes, floor the gas pedal. If it’s a stock converter it should stop at like 2800-3200rpm max and not go over it. If the RPMs go above those numbers and you hear the turbo spool then you’ve got an aftermarket converter and now you know what to do.


If it does flash past 3000 then let go of the brake and e-brake at the same time and let ‘er eat. then report back here and let us know either way though. I’d bet you have a stock converter in there. A restall will wake it up everywhere.

 

[Tyler Davis]

Need way more info on the build. What converter is in the car? With an FP Red if it’s stock then it’s gonna be an absolute dog.


Easy way to test this, try out a brake boost launch. Put the car in neutral, and put your foot on the brake and yank the e brake handle. Rev the gas a little, just to about 3k or so and press the brake hard while you’re doing this. You should feel the brake pedal go down more.

Stop revving it but keep holding those brakes. Put the car in L(or first) and then while still holding the brakes, floor the gas pedal. If it’s a stock converter it should stop at like 2800-3200rpm max and not go over it. If the RPMs go above those numbers and you hear the turbo spool then you’ve got an aftermarket converter and now you know what to do.


If it does flash past 3000 then let go of the brake and e-brake at the same time and let ‘er eat. then report back here and let us know either way though. I’d bet you have a stock converter in there. A restall will wake it up everywhere.

Yeah I’m 99% sure it’s stock converter. I’ll have to look into a restall or a higher stall cause im not getting into the 11s/10s unless I can launch, seems like that’s confirmed

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Spray a 100 shot out of the hole. Thats what I'm gonna do. If the motor will hold considerable boost (30+), it'll hold a NOS shot. Just an option is all.

 

[DSMPT]

Besides replacing the converter, +1 for Marty. A auto car w/ stock converter launches very slowly. My full weight 2g (w/ stock converter, 16g, stock cams) ran like your car, like 15s ~high 14s. But ran into 12s without launching if I sprayed a 125 shot even on the tiny stock exhaust. If you are interested in, please check the link below.

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/the-big-nitrous-tuning-thread.540072/#post-153849546

 

[Tyler Davis]

Im thinking about the converter just cause it’s kinda sluggish whenever I hit the gas anywhere and I was kinda going for a street car that I could get a 10.9 with. I was thinking about throwing a Evo3 16g on and ditching the red but then it would be way harder to get a 10 second slip

Besides replacing the converter, +1 for Marty. A auto car w/ stock converter launches very slowly. My full weight 2g (w/ stock converter, 16g, stock cams) ran like your car, like 15s ~high 14s. But ran into 12s without launching if I sprayed a 125 shot even on the tiny stock exhaust. If you are interested in, please check the link below.

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/the-big-nitrous-tuning-thread.540072/#post-153849546

 

[CrackedDSM]

No offense meant and I don’t mean to sound like I’m talking down to anyone here, I promise, but running a 10 isn’t as easy as some people make it out to be. You’ve got gutted tin can DSMs with 67-70mm turbos with hood exit exhausts that can’t crack into the 10’s. Even with the Red it isn’t some magic formula unless you’re ready to throw a ton of money at the thing and let other people do all the work for you.


Personally, even with a 16G the stock 2G converter is a tight little SOB and won’t flash even on a 16G. So you may not be happy even with a 16G on the stock converter.

What I would do is switch to a 16G immediately. Then find someone who does quality restalled converters for our DSMs like IPT Trans or etc and tell them what you’ve got turbo wise, what you want street car/manner wise, let them work their magic and then push the 16G setup as hard as you can. Learn everything you can. Teach yourself to tune, how the turbo responds to x timing vs y AFRs. Make it run 12’s. If you need more then turn it up with some more additions and run 11’s still on the 16G. If you find it’s limits there and want more, slap the red on. Then you’ll be ready for it and 10’s won’t be as hard.

Crawl before you walk. But that’s just me. 100% your car, and your call. But honestly a low 12 second DSM will wax a ton of cars on the street that are much faster on “paper” and is thoroughly enjoyable. My edge traps enough for high 12’s and even with it’s FWD biased AWD system it punches above its weight. My old 16G/Cyclone DSM was even more enjoyable and bruised even more egos. so you never know what you might enjoy and what might be “good enough”.

 

[Tyler Davis]

No offense meant and I don’t mean to sound like I’m talking down to anyone here, I promise, but running a 10 isn’t as easy as some people make it out to be. You’ve got gutted tin can DSMs with 67-70mm turbos with hood exit exhausts that can’t crack into the 10’s. Even with the Red it isn’t some magic formula unless you’re ready to throw a ton of money at the thing and let other people do all the work for you.


Personally, even with a 16G the stock 2G converter is a tight little SOB and won’t flash even on a 16G. So you may not be happy even with a 16G on the stock converter.

What I would do is switch to a 16G immediately. Then find someone who does quality restalled converters for our DSMs like IPT Trans or etc and tell them what you’ve got turbo wise, what you want street car/manner wise, let them work their magic and then push the 16G setup as hard as you can. Learn everything you can. Teach yourself to tune, how the turbo responds to x timing vs y AFRs. Make it run 12’s. If you need more then turn it up with some more additions and run 11’s still on the 16G. If you find it’s limits there and want more, slap the red on. Then you’ll be ready for it and 10’s won’t be as hard.

Crawl before you walk. But that’s just me. 100% your car, and your call. But honestly a low 12 second DSM will wax a ton of cars on the street that are much faster on “paper” and is thoroughly enjoyable. My edge traps enough for high 12’s and even with it’s FWD biased AWD system it punches above its weight. My old 16G/Cyclone DSM was even more enjoyable and bruised even more egos. so you never know what you might enjoy and what might be “good enough”.

thank you for the advice i think thats what ill do, only reason I even got the red was because I was told with the stroker build, the lag wouldnt too bad.

 

[CrackedDSM]

thank you for the advice i think thats what ill do, only reason I even got the red was because I was told with the stroker build, the lag wouldnt too bad.

Jesus Christ. Someone who takes advice? In this day and age?

Please never leave. We need more new guys like you.


but in all seriousness the red is a decent turbo and isn’t bad on a stroker but it’s always gonna be laggy. But with a proper converter/paired converter the red on an auto is actually fairly enjoyable as the converter will flash on WOT to where it spools and it’s like insta-boost. Something to aim for in the future. Plus getting the stock converter restalled for the 16G will show you in a low-cost/low-risk environment how an auto with a looser converter acts on the street. See if it’s something you’ll like or something you hate. You’ll have less invested than you would in a properly supported Red setup. Win-win.