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Auto tips and tricks for first track trip in 1g race car project.

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AL92

15+ Year Contributor
933
1
Dec 12, 2003
regina, SK_Canada
I have got my 91 auto awd turbo ready to take to the track hopefully this coming weekend.

It is a trailer only car. I have decided to play with it with the stock 13g turbo for awhile just for fun but want to run as good as I can. I have tracked other cars at the track but not my dsms.

I have lightened the car down quite a bit. No bumper supports except for jm fab front one and some metal strapping here and there. Deleted abs, air ,windshield wipers. Only running drivers seat, console,dash but nothing behind drivers doors. no sway bars.No exahust beyond megan 3 inch downpipe. 17 inch rims and tires off my 97 don't have 4 matched tires in 16 inch size right now,odessy 680 battery. no stereo and few other little things removed here and there. Not sure raceweight.Car is not street legal so can't take it to get weighed hopefully weight it at the track.

Only mods are the downpipe and k and n filter. Have manual boost controller but didn't think it would have any effect with just the 3 inch open downpipe woudl expect to hit 15 or more with no controller. I have supra tt pump and adjustable fuel reg stock injectors.
Stock tuning for this trip although have dsmlink for the car but won't bother using it this time out.

Stock trans so far no shift kit,stock stall.
Figure raceweight might be 3000 pounds.
So what tips and tricks..street tires..so what tire pressure should I try. Track will be unprepped for street legal night. Should I try to brake torque it as high as the brakes will hold or should I flash it off idle? Should I let the car shift itself or should I shift it manually. and at what rpm? I have a shiftlight.

How much gains from stalling it up or flashing it off idle and how much from manually shifting it.
If want the computer to shift at higher rpm assume need to get modified tcu??

What are good tires to run in 205/55/16 size if stay with stock rims.Would run these next year. Don't want to run full drag slicks.


I have no clue what it will run. I was thinking read stock auto 13g do about mid 15s.
So was thinking with the weight reduction and with the boost maybe going to 15 or bit higher from the open downpipe would maybe be able to hit a mid 14 at 93 or so?
Not trying to burn up the track this time but also trying to make us dsm guys look good at same time.

Should be doing the big mods over the winter and have quite a few planned. Move my fp 3065 from my 97 talon over ,my jm fab race intake, get a nice fmic, get a nice stall, shift kit, end clutch kit and weld the center diff. Install my 280 brian crower cams possibly get he head or bottom done over winter as well. Rollbar and race seat planned and later on maybe cf or fiberglass here and there. I don't want to every be running faster than 10s too much hassle at local NHRA track. Will go to some outlaw tracks though so could maybe go for it there.

Ok did more research. So sounds like want to brake torque it, put in neutral rev it and hold brake then put it in drive possibly use ebrake as well as footbrake?
And guess want power on not economy obviously. And not sure leave overdrive on or turn it off how high mph can the car get if overdrive is off?
And pretty much not try to manually shift it? Maybe just reprogram it with tcu reprogramming so it can shift at higher rpm after add my 280 cams and race intake?

So what years have eprom tcu or do they all and are they all compatible in my 91?
Also are 4 bolt rear ends the same in auto or 5 speed cars. Want to upgrade to 4 bolt.

Still like top hear opinions on tire pressure. what are good tires to run on the stock 16 rims as well. Just running goodyear rsa 17 right now. Going back to 16s next season.
 
do you have a logger? With an open downpipe you will want to keep an eye on things. I usually run 20 psi at the track, however at your power levels you may not need to run lower than 30psi. Just start there and drop a few pounds after each run if needed. Yes the 4 bolt auto is different due to the different gearing than the manual 4 bolt.
 
So they bolt up physically just have different gearing? What is the difference in gearing? Maybe won't matter much?

I am not expecting any problems with boost out of control when run the FP3065 with tial gate externally dumped. I am a bit worried what will happen now the internally gated
13g. What is max boost a 13 g can hit?
Will my stock head gaskets be ok ? I could throw in my arp studs now with stock head gasket if necessary.
 
Ok did more research. So sounds like want to brake torque it, put in neutral rev it and hold brake then put it in drive possibly use ebrake as well as footbrake?

Just put it in drive, mash the gas and hold the e-brake and regular brake. When the light turns green go since you don't have a stall. Also since the turbo is only a 13G shifting early might actually lead to better times.

I'll load a video of my car but it has a stall and takes a while to brake boost, thats what you get when you have a small stall and 3065.....


AWD launch on Vimeo playing with a mid 13 second trans am
 
On a 13g with a stock AWD auto car, your tire pressure isnt going to make any difference. You wont spin no matter the tire pressure. Your car will likely run the fastest with full tire pressure (45lbs or so).

You can also ignore the overdrive as you wont get to a high enough speed for the TCU to want it shift untill you let off the gas an the end of the track. But thats one of those things you may want to try a pass with it on and a pass with it off to see for yourself. Like pointed out above you might actually have a faster E.T. with an earlier shift.

The stock auto transmissions and TCU will take a while actually shift so manually shifting first to second may be tricky. I would try making a couple passes without worrying about the shifting just so you can focus on getting around the water box and up to the line quickly so you can start brake boosting while the other guy is doing a burnout. DO NOT dump the car into drive from neutral while reving (unless ofcourse you like rebuilding transmissions).

After a couple passes you have a good baseline time and then you can try manually shifting it to see if you go faster or slower.

Good Luck.
 
Nice videos AWD Launch. Our cars should be pretty similar once move over my fp3065. I would hope to get similar times .Our track is 1600 feet. Some small shot might be a good thing to ad.
So how much boost can you build and what stall do you have. I will likely get a billet ipt? one think pretty high stall since its track only car. And is your car lightened much?
Do you know raceweight.I have to weigh mine at track hopefully if the scale is working.

I decided to use my dsmlink since was afraid of fuel cut and these cars are so pig rich factory.
Not sure how high can get for boost from the 13g. 17 psi maybe? As said its just for fun. Car is finally ready to track and only couple track days to try it on so no time really to swap over the big hardware.
Do that over winter. Also what is done to your car to survive you fp3065. Did you weld center diff? Any other tranny mods..endclutch,etc? I am going to get tcu done so never have to manually shift.

Also will my dsmlink two step work on my auto? What should I set launch rpm at with stock converter?
I have heard might be able to build decent boost on launch since its just a 13g.
Wonder what the fastest 13g record is maybe should try to beat it.
I am not running alc/meth but will likely take my octane up to 100 or so. I will leave stock timing alone.
Our track will be unprepped the day I go and can be slippery. Hopefully my awd will hook up good.
Do you think I will hit maximum boost with no boost controller since have open downpipe. Would think stock blow off would not hold much past 17psi.

See what happends. likely will take video cam along hopefully friend can get some vids.

Funny about the f body since I also own a crazy 408 Twin turbo 99 trans am with direct port nitrous.
I have not bothered to spray it yet and will be tracking it and dynoing it next season. Am switching it over to auto. It makes my 97 talon feel slow, it has of course monster torque spools up like by 3000 and can put out 1300 hp with boost and nitrous full out. Upgrading the turbos on it over winter to 1400 hp potential with 300 shot potential on top. Crazy stuff.
Realistically drive it around with it set to about 750 hp boost only and don't really want ot bother dynoing it past 1000rwhp. Thats enough for me. The rest is just in reserve.

So was really hoping my 91 with fp3065 can do 10s but was thinking low 10s would be doable but maybe not without some spray. My jm fab is set up for direct port already anyway.
Don't want to hit 9s at local NHRA track .Then need medical. full cage ,etc.etc. So actually anything 10s will be ok.
 
Just put it in drive, mash the gas and hold the e-brake and regular brake. When the light turns green go since you don't have a stall. Also since the turbo is only a 13G shifting early might actually lead to better times.

I'll load a video of my car but it has a stall and takes a while to brake boost, thats what you get when you have a small stall and 3065.....


AWD launch on Vimeo playing with a mid 13 second trans am

What did you end up running that pass?
 
What did you end up running that pass?

10.69@127 1.6 60' but I let out and shifted early due to it misfiring up top. You can hear it in the vid if you listen to it close enough, oh and sorry in advance if you hear band language. Some guy said he made a video and showed me the link, so it wasn't any of my friends.
 
I love when I see some fast autos, it gives me hope :).
What stall are you using and are you using nitrous to help with the spool up? But I guess you have a 2.4L to help with that, LOL

Also, stock trans?
 
Nice videos AWD Launch. Our cars should be pretty similar once move over my fp3065. I would hope to get similar times .Our track is 1600 feet. Some small shot might be a good thing to ad.
So how much boost can you build and what stall do you have. I will likely get a billet ipt? one think pretty high stall since its track only car. And is your car lightened much?
Do you know raceweight.I have to weigh mine at track hopefully if the scale is working.

I decided to use my dsmlink since was afraid of fuel cut and these cars are so pig rich factory.
Not sure how high can get for boost from the 13g. 17 psi maybe? As said its just for fun. Car is finally ready to track and only couple track days to try it on so no time really to swap over the big hardware.
Do that over winter. Also what is done to your car to survive you fp3065. Did you weld center diff? Any other tranny mods..endclutch,etc? I am going to get tcu done so never have to manually shift.

Also will my dsmlink two step work on my auto? What should I set launch rpm at with stock converter?

The stall is small 2500ish but I have a 2.4L with FP4 cams and a JMF SMIM. Main mods also include meth kit (28PSI with 92), ETS short route, 1000cc injectors, DSMLINK, oh and my favorite push button shifting.

Tranny was a semi-built IPT with a welded center dif. Since I was running straight pump I didn't want to use nitrous or I bet some 1.5's maybe 1.4X's could've been had and so very low 10's. All videos have passengers (renegade style tracks) so prep sucks but hey where else can you let a person ride in a 10 secind pass? Most passes I guess were around 33-3400, 28lbs of boost but no 100% runs due to some misfires here and there on the shitty stock ignition system.

This was with a 250lb rider checking dsmlink and shift points...

Travis Clemons 10.79 @ 128 Video by Steve - MySpace Video

as you can see the track has garbage prep as the car just sits and spins if I try and leave with more than 10PSI with Nitto DR's (18psi front,20psi back)all around
 
I am getting my car closer to track ready. Today put in temp boost gauge and hooked up the turbosmart manual boost controller.Also temporary but will do for now.
I set my two step on 3000 and tried a brake torque in my driveway.
It went to 5psi prett quick then all of a sudden jumped up to 10 or 15 it happened fast and started to push thru the brakes.
So looks like I can build good boost with the 13g off the line.
I would think to get the 3065 going next season should have a big stall like 5000 and possibly some spray too. Try the stall first likely. I figure will need to launch higher in rpm since will have the crower 280s and the jm race manifold not their drag manifold though.
This will push the powerband up higher.No idea what woudl be good rpm to shift at,get the tcu chipped. Being a 2.0 guess 8500 to 9000 redline is fine with good valve springs?

That last video was awfully dark night racing... Car sounds great and looks like it can haul.
 
So they bolt up physically just have different gearing? What is the difference in gearing? Maybe won't matter much?


Yes it matters enough that you need to change the gears or just swap out the pumpkin.
 
Ok going tommorrow hope weather cooperates.Going to run tires near full pressure. Will brake torque and play with two step trying 2750 think first then go down a bit if have to.Don't think will use parking brake this time out. Guess see what boost I get and how the brakes hold the car.
Think putitng gallon of xylene in there with 1/2 tank of fuel on top of the 94 octane e10 that have in there already. Was tuning and stuff or would run 1/4 tank.Overfilled cause my gas tank sender was messed up, its fixed now.I realize gas is pretty heavy.
Left timing stock,leaned out fuel should be at 11 to 1 or so. Stock timing set to 5btdc.

So wild card what time will get and no idea what a 13g can boost too or for how long. Likely get 6 or so runs in depending on how busy the track is.
 
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