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im slow....16.6

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You need launch practice.

I was cutting 2.1 in my '94 Altima. You can do much better. Try slipping it at 4500-5000.
 
Get a wideband.... You're getting 3 counts of knock at WOT @ 11psi with a FMIC?? Something is wrong here. Granted 3 counts is not a lot but still you shouldn't be having any (0) knock at 11psi even on the stock fuel system.


the higher rpms are 4% added fuel........and still the same. it was lowered from 10 counts to 3, what about rich knock???
 
Actually, on the list of 1/4 mile times, I'm now 3rd slowest by ET. Fourth slowest by Trap Speed. :)

I really need to get back to the track.
 
Those 60' times look like a fwd car burning the tires.

You need to launch the car. Hold the rpm's at about 4 grand and let the clutch out. You need to find a happy medium of letting the clutch out quick but not too quick. Don't dump the clutch cause it will bog the engine down and quickly break something. Don't slip it a lot cause that makes you slow and wrecks your clutch. Once you start to learn the clutching part of taking off, you can tweak your launch rpm.

I've made 1 pass down an 1/8 mile with my car, and 1 with my cousins (with almost 100 less hp than mine) and both 60` times were 1.8 something. If you can at least get yours below 2.0, your times won't be that bad for a car on a stock tune. After you get the launches down, get something to tune with so you can up the boost and you'll be running just fine.
 
Those 60' times look like a fwd car burning the tires.

You need to launch the car. Hold the rpm's at about 4 grand and let the clutch out. You need to find a happy medium of letting the clutch out quick but not too quick. Don't dump the clutch cause it will bog the engine down and quickly break something. Don't slip it a lot cause that makes you slow and wrecks your clutch. Once you start to learn the clutching part of taking off, you can tweak your launch rpm.

I've made 1 pass down an 1/8 mile with my car, and 1 with my cousins (with almost 100 less hp than mine) and both 60` times were 1.8 something. If you can at least get yours below 2.0, your times won't be that bad for a car on a stock tune. After you get the launches down, get something to tune with so you can up the boost and you'll be running just fine.



im working on that, I gotta reduce that 60' badly LOL, uhm im using a safc right now, but later on i want to go link
 
The first time I went to the track with my Talon I performed 1.9 second 60 ft times and 2.0's no lower.

To me it sounds like you need a driver swap and your car looked over carefully I've missed shifts and ran 15.1 on the first track session.
 
the higher rpms are 4% added fuel........and still the same. it was lowered from 10 counts to 3, what about rich knock???

Boost leak!

Thats the only thing that could lead to a rich knock on a stock fuel system on only 11 psi. Well maybe cheep gas, but that wouldnt be a rich knock.

Granted your 60ft times werent great, but Id find those boost leaks first. Good luck.
 
Your working with a stock VR4 first gear so you might have to rev it higher to launch it. Also with the VR4 gear you should be able to get really good 60fts.
 
Your working with a stock VR4 first gear so you might have to rev it higher to launch it. Also with the VR4 gear you should be able to get really good 60fts.



I never heard of that before, and yha Im waiting on hard piping next month when a board member starts to make them.
 
You have to add fuel on top of the factory fuel curve?

my friend is the one who tuned it. He took out fuel on the lower rpms, and added Fuel to the High Rpms, right now I just changed my wires/coil packs/ and my valve cover gasket, My old wires ripped out of my coil pack, and I went through three sets of coil packs to find the Code 44 problem.........
 
These cars run as rich as 9.6:1 from the factory during wot. There is no reason to add fuel. I would ask why he did it.
 
Hi, I tuned the car for him. He had 10 counts of knock only running 10 psi but he was creeping to 15psi around 6000 rpm. I added a few percent fuel where knock was occuring and after a certain amount of fuel nothing would help the 3 knock counts in the higher rpms. He has a very bad fuel cut/ missing symptom at 6000 rpms and I beleive that is causing the knock sensor to go off maybe. If I had more time I'd try to get it running good, hell, rewire the fuel pump, get some 660's and I'd give you a hell of a tune. Come down to Cali sometime. You won't leave until you run a 13!!!
 
something else is wrong with it like you said then. I would close the gap of the plugs to see if it helps at all. And zero the fuel back out to stock.
 
Hi, I tuned the car for him. He had 10 counts of knock only running 10 psi but he was creeping to 15psi around 6000 rpm. I added a few percent fuel where knock was occuring and after a certain amount of fuel nothing would help the 3 knock counts in the higher rpms. He has a very bad fuel cut/ missing symptom at 6000 rpms and I beleive that is causing the knock sensor to go off maybe. If I had more time I'd try to get it running good, hell, rewire the fuel pump, get some 660's and I'd give you a hell of a tune. Come down to Cali sometime. You won't leave until you run a 13!!!

thanks for chiming in Mike, I fixed the stutter problem, I changed out the old Coil packs with the ones in my garage and new wires. it doesnt hesitate anymore, (atleast for the past two days it hasnt ) aha, anyways I will come down soon enough, chill out, but I do have a couple friends that went to that mountain I took you too, and they keep telling me they would smoke anyone.......hehe You should come up with Bryan again and show em wassup.
-shane
 
something else is wrong with it like you said then. I would close the gap of the plugs to see if it helps at all. And zero the fuel back out to stock.

What would you change the gap too???? and I will log again and see whats happening with it.
-shane
 
Nice, you fixed the stutter. Okay, Make sure the gap is at .028. Then zero the safc out and make sure there is no knock. Then you can turn your boost up to about 14 or 15 psi. If there is no knock(there shouldn't be) then keep subtracting 1% fuel at each rpm point. I set your rpm points at 1k,2k,3k,4k,5.5k,6.5k and 7.5k I think. Then, when you see a little knock just add another percent of fuel until it is gone. I thought your fuel filter or pump or injectors were clogged. It was acting a little different than what I've seen before. Hopefully you can get the car tuned on your own. Search through the forums, you seem to be really smart and this should be easy for you to do. Have you done a boost leak test yet, tuning with a boost leak is a pita.
 
something else is wrong with it like you said then. I would close the gap of the plugs to see if it helps at all. And zero the fuel back out to stock.

ok, nvm the stuttering is not gone, I changed my coil pack and wires, coil pack has been changed three times already, code 44 car stutters then goes back to normal, I am thinking the ecu maybe leaking, but I wont know until I switch it, I have a 90 Eprom, will this work in my gvr4???? if its not that then I will change my plugs AGAIN, and check for more BL.
 
I believe some of the pins are different on the 90 ecu than the rest. I also believe gvr4 is a different computer code than e931(91-94)
 
What are you IDC's?

From personal experience, you could very well be outrunning the stock fuel pump. My first mod was a 3" exhaust. I would creep to about 15 psi at 5500 rpm or so, and my car would stutter and pop. Luckily I had a wideband installed at the same time and it showed AFR's going 14:1+ under boost...not good. Replacing with a Walbro 255 HP fixed that problem. I was outrunning the stock injectors soon afterward. The stock fuel system on these cars is NOT strong, especially considering the age that they are now. You need to take a log and make sure you are not running high injector duty cycles, but even if you aren't, beware that you can still outrun the fuel pump.

Also, another word of warning: the stock timing map is fairly aggressive, be wary of it and watch your knock count to make sure it isn't too much. If you do get a lot of knock because of timing advance, and you don't have any other way to change it, retard the CAS until it goes away. This will effectively reduce your whole map by a set amount (say, 5 degrees) and make your car a slug off boost, but it's better than a blown motor.
 
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