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@1990TSIAWDTALON What do you mean, if I go that way? I have been driving the car around for a while with the MFabs T/S. I even reported back spool data and airflow as boost reaches 30psi versus the old 50 trim. Lots of pics in this thread and a few in my profile as well.

Spool is very impressive. I hit 30 psi around 4200rpm, and all indications are the setup is working very well. My only regret is letting coolant spray my pretty manifold and kinda hurt its appearance! Essentially the 50 trim spooled to 30psi a couple/few hundred rpm earlier, but was flowing less air at 30psi. I am still working out kinks, but expect to start turning the boost up soon. I dont even think those numbers are that far off for flywheel HP. Cant wait to see what 30,35, etc feels like when properly tuned. (I was not really intending to hit 30+psi before - kinks - and still had 9.5 AFR in the DA table)

I think you are confusing me with another member or something! I was going twin scroll before I decided on holset!
 
Yes, as many as I follow, I'm sure I completely forgot that.
What did coolant do to the mani? Put spots on it?
 
Yes, just like water spots. Tried cleaning it with mineral spirits and they just came back... might fade in time. If not, maybe ill ceramic coat them someday. I am starting to look-into and plan for heat control under the hood...

I am looking at adding some reflective fiberglass sleeves over the water pipe and possibly the intake pipe and IC pipes. The stuff isnt cheap for 4" pipes tho! I also want to build a cold-air enclosure to keep the filter from drawing all the hot engine bay air in. Lastly I want to make a small heat deflection shield that goes on the manifold bolts, and goes between the valve cover and the manifold (similar to what is built into the EVO X exhaust manifold gasket. This will just help deflect the heat a bit, which looks like it will help the valve cover gasket survive a bit longer before cooking LOL
1555A417_1024x1024.jpg



Edit: the more I think about this little heat shield, it would also benefit the cylinder head, as there would be less radiant heat exposure from the manifold. I am def going to make a small shield similar to this....
 
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My red Talon had to have the header wrapped, Turbo blanket, DP wrapped and intercooler pipes wrapped. It helped engine and intake temps ALOT.
 
heck ya! which blanket did you go with? I have been looking at the PTP blankets. I saw a video on youtube where they had a miata on a dyno and a guy left his hand on the blanket during an entire pull. Plus there are some members on here that have recommended them. I can't really wrap the manifold or hot parts kit, but they might get ceramic coating in the off-season.

I got the radiator today, and it looks 100% usable. I dont see why they would have returned it to amazon unless they just didn't like it. It seems a bit weird that the stamping on the tank is the old style (like the one I had almost 10 years ago) but a quick look inside the outlet shows its def a 3 row core. Its also very thick! The one coming off had the mounting pegs centered front to back, look how far offset this one is, and how much space ill lose for fan on the front side... glad I went with two pushers!

20200823_150635.jpg

20200823_161739.jpg
20200823_161055.jpg
 
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heck ya! which blanket did you go with? I have been looking at the PTP blankets. I saw a video on youtube where they had a miata on a dyno and a guy left his hand on the blanket during an entire pull. Plus there are some members on here that have recommended them. I can't really wrap the manifold or hot parts kit, but they might get ceramic coating in the off-season.

I got the radiator today, and it looks 100% usable. I dont see why they would have returned it to amazon unless they just didn't like it. It seems a bit weird that the stamping on the tank is the old style (like the one I had almost 10 years ago) but a quick look inside the outlet shows its def a 3 row core. Its also very thick! The one coming off had the mounting pegs centered front to back, look how far offset this one is, and how much space ill lose for fan on the front side... glad I went with two pushers!

Really surprised that fit! Those X-lines are extremely thick. The extra space from the more compact design ended up paying off :)

Hoping that cures all of the coolant/HG issues but even if it doesn't, it's really solid insurance if the HG does need to be swapped eventually.
 
Really surprised that fit! Those X-lines are extremely thick. The extra space from the more compact design ended up paying off :)

Hoping that cures all of the coolant/HG issues but even if it doesn't, it's really solid insurance if the HG does need to be swapped eventually.

That's where I am at as well! I truly appreciate the backup in making that one feel justified!! I am not totally sure the studs fixed it, but I did need a new rad either way. I was going to buy another cheapo "ebay" core, but I stumbled across the open-box x-line and couldn't refuse the price. I knew they were thicker, but I didn't realize just how thick they are! I think it may not have worked out if we had gone a different direction with the manifold. I love the way everything is still managing to play nicely together!!

I know push fans aren't ideal, but between closing off the cores and the specific pushers I picked up, I think it should run nice and cool. I am still really surprised I could have so many little issues with the cooling system that never showed their ugly face until I upgraded turbos!

cap bypassing at 2psi - bad seal to t-stat housing (new water outlet/top t-stat housing)
spinning the water pump to over 12k RPM (installed Evospec underdrive pulley)
rubber causing partially plugged radiator - probably from the 15 yr old hose I took off this spring - at least I hope so (installed new x-line rad)
extremely cheap slim fans - ebay specials from a decade ago - amazed they still worked/ran (dual spal push 1640cfm/ea)
no ducting (not sure exactly how ill solve this yet. Seeing lots of great ideas on tuners)

With these issues resolved, I should have a very capable cooling system.
 
I can't remember the brand of Turbo blanket I ran, it attached with springs I remember. I run the X line radiator with my @MorrisonFab manifold too and somehow, I got one puller on the passenger side but the drivers side HAD to be a pusher.
My "scoop"/air dam that I use helps keep my auto car at 190 almost all the time and I did do some ducting to keep the air going through the radiator not around or under it.
 
I can't remember the brand of Turbo blanket I ran, it attached with springs I remember. I run the X line radiator with my @MorrisonFab manifold too and somehow, I got one puller on the passenger side but the drivers side HAD to be a pusher.
My "scoop"/air dam that I use helps keep my auto car at 190 almost all the time and I did do some ducting to keep the air going through the radiator not around or under it.

I heard a rumor that 1g's might have a tiny bit more room up front than the 2g. IDK honestly
 
@1990TSIAWDTALON does your x line have the logo like mine or the newer logo? Should be the same rad bc this is a 1g

Edit:

speaking of... I cut the lower mounting pegs off and sanded down the leftovers. I then measured out and marked the spots to put new pegs on to align with the 2g lower. My buddy with the prius agreed to weld them for me so I dont screw up the lower tank trying... maybe this evening
 
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Pretty sure mine is exactly like your is Will.
 
Here is mine.
Mitsumoto X Line radiator.png
 
Is it the newer one? It certainly isn't a new radiator, I bought it back in 2014 I think :)
 
That is why its so strange this one has the old logo.

I wonder if this is NOS (New - old stock) or something? I don't care which logo it has, and actually wish there was no logo, but it seems odd.

Maybe its a counterfeit! even so its a 3 row core and super thick. I'm going to run it! LOL
 
My car ran considerably cooler with it over a regular Mitsumoto. I do have to say, and something to think about, that aluminum sure picks up ambient temps EASY which is one reason I wrapped all the hot parts that I could so I wasn't heating up the radiator with my exhaust.
 
So I was playing around with the car in anticipation of getting my fans, but they didn't show up today. I pre-wired and mounted my relays for them anyway, and ran a 8 GA wire from the underhood fuse block to the relays. I hi-jacked the 50A fuse meant for ABS since this car ditched that idea a long long time ago.

Based on SPAL's spec sheets I need a 30A fuse @13V for each of these, so I may have to upgrade the fuse that is currently in-place, but I doubt it. The trigger circuit for the relay is going to be controlled by the EGR solenoid output from the ECU via ECMlink's magic. Each fan will also be fused at 30A with an inline fuse holder. Should be able to control the fans on and off based on vehicle speed and temp (without the timing issues related to using coolant offset), which I really like.

I also installed the new oem water outlet with a new t-stat and gasket. while I had the t-stat out, I could see signs of rust when looking down through the lower housing into the head. Rust on aluminum? Yep. Not saying the aluminum was rusting - but I am saying the aluminum was rust colored, be it from deposits or otherwise. I wonder how much rust is in the block? I didn't notice any while doing the water pump recently, but I am going to research ways to rid water jackets of surface rust and deposits. I know some have used CLR, but there are also products made specifically for this job, so I will try to figure out what "works" for others and try that first.
 
I’m in the process of using a product. makes thermo cure, and if it’s any indication from the colour my clear water has gone blackish which is what the product is supposed to do, temps seem to be down, and I’m hoping for more after I flush it all.
 
Will, I run a 180 thermostat in my car and my temps run 190-196 instead of 203-206 in case you still have any cooling issues. Those Spals should do the trick, that's whats on my car and they move the air.
 
Me too, Marty! Do you use a stant superstat or motorad ultrastat? OEM 180F t-stat's still available?

When the system was full it never saw 190°F on the old setup and fans running at all times. I had a cheapo chinese rad and 2 12" slim fans. Cruising it actually would drop too low for fuel trims to update (172°F sometimes). But after doing some pulls it would fill the overflow because compression pushed the coolant out of the system (from what I can tell). Then there wouldn't be enough coolant in the system to maintain cooling, and it would hover around 200F while moving, and when I stop it would creep toward 220F.

I truly dont think I needed a 3 row rad or high quality fans (probably just needed to fix hg issue), but if I were to ever decide to do more with the car than just cruise it around, they might be nice to have.
 
These SPALs are 3.75" thick, so not really a thin fan by any means. They use a paddle blade design so they should be loud and move a bunch of air!!
I think the SPALs will move a lot more air than the cheap super slim fans. That's more important than people realize, especially if you have a FMIC. Sometimes you even have to focus on channeling the air through the radiator (ducting) to keep temps lower, and hood vents have been required for many who spend time out on the road course.
 
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