Question about water temps [Merged 5-8] temperature coolant running

[dsmtrance]

What is considered getting too hot? I have heard diff. #'s. I ask b/c I noticed that my car got up to 212 at idle last night after a few hard runs (check out my other posts for more info on my car's rebirth!!!). At a "start-up" idle it'll stay between 194-197 though. FYI, I have a 16psi rad cap, 180 deg. therm, 12" 1400cfm rad fan, and a Fluidyne rad. I'm just wondering what would cause it to run hotter at idle like that (didn't before with the RRE kit....has the IRC street kit now). Any ideas???

 

[8uwth4]

My coolant temp has been at 270 F Ever since I got the car... I just figured it was normal, but after seeing all of yours it doesn't even look close.. Is it time for a new radiator maybe flush and fill?

 

[Mike 99GSX]

Originally posted by 8uwth4
My coolant temp has been at 270 F Ever since I got the car... I just figured it was normal, but after seeing all of yours it doesn't even look close.. Is it time for a new radiator maybe flush and fill?

Well you're either going to need a new motor if it really is that high or the gauge has been broke for ever. You wouldn't have been able to drive around very long at 270F so if its been that way for a while and you haven't blown up yet then its the gauge thats broke.

 

[ECLIPSE4x4]

I concur with ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

 

[Dannyboy1201]

When I was running the stock radiator w/ 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water my idle temps were around 206-208 on the highway it was about the same maybe a little higher max were 213. I added Water wetter and did 30/70 antifreeze and water mix and it dropped my temps to about 200-203 idle and about 195 in the Highway the lowest I saw when logging was about 193. I punched a hole in my radiator a week after so I got a Fluidyne well I also used Water wetter and a 30/70 mix of antifreeze and water and my temps actual got higher 208 at idle and 205 at cruse kind of weird.

 

[EuroGSTSpyder]

Ok I thought mine was extremely high at 200-210 at cruising say 80-85. At tops it could go to 212.....
I have however just one fanblade ok since I melted one with the heat form the turbo....

If the fans wuld work both of them I would probably get the temp down..
But what is the "normal" temp and what is considered "dangerous" for the engine?

 

[Bohrn]

Just thought I would clear something up.

First off, lots of people run straight water and Water Wetter for long periods of time. Some people even run it ALL the time. If it provided no corrosion protection, these people(me included) would be in for big trouble.

So, just to be sure that my memory was still working, I went back to the Redline website and checked.

Yep, my memory is still good, as is my corrosion protection

http://www.redlineoil.com/redlineoil/wwti.htm

also some other good technical info in there.

oh and back on topic.

My car with a new stock rad, no A/C, stock fan, liscence plate below bumper, and the black plastic ducting removed from between the bumper, I get max of 198 deg on hot days in traffic. This is read from my laptop using a TMO logger.

I also have a 13psi cap,and a 185deg thermostat.

 

[j3rkoff]

So do I go Factory or Stant, etc, for my thermo?

I don't know what I have in there now, but my car is running 215-220 when I'm driving hard.

 

[Wobble]

what is your NORMAL water temp when driving yer car pretty hard..

I have an el-cheapo 180 stat from autozone in my car and when cruising around normal i sit at right about maby.. 185..

but earlier i was getting on it alot.. high revs, boost then getting back on it.. basically shaggaing ass through my neighborhood and i noticed i was getting up around 200ish.. is that normal??

I have a fluidyne and a FMIC..

 

[BUCK]

My Pocketlogger reads a median of 200 - 210.

 

[Wobble]

well, it just makes me paranoid, becuase at 200 the stock gauge is pretty far up there (3-4) or so, i should unplug it and just use my vatometer one dammit

 

[Violater101]

With AC on cruising i'm around 196'ish. I also have a FMIC and fluidyne and have hot summers.

 

[nine5raptor]

193 all the time. I have a smaller front mount.

 

[Enigma_Man]

196-204 all the time.

OEM Mitsu 180 degree thermo. Rusty/crappy old radiator. Stock SMIC

-Jesse

 

[Wobble]

dang, i run alot cooler than any of yall.. wierd.. i guess its all good then, i wonder how hot is too hot.. I.E. pull over and shut it off?

 

[kpt4321]

I'd start worrying around 215 and turning the A/C off / heat on. At 225, I'd start really worrying.

Buy a real thermostat and see what happens.

 

[1badtsiawd]

i run at 160- 170. my car runs the best at those temps.

 

[talon1979]

IMO 200 is fine. My car runs that when it is warmed up.

 

[Wobble]

coming back from the beach cruising 80ish with the ac blasting i got up to a little under 200.. so im guessing thats normal.. but what is odd is my STOCK gauge was reading about 6/8ths of the way up.. if i didnt have an aftermarket gauge I would have been freaking out

 

[Ludachris]

I just got back from a 90* track day weekend. For the most part the car ran great. But I've noticed for the second consecutive track weekend that the car starts to run hot (over 230*) later in the day. And that's with plenty of cool down time between the 20 minute sessions.

Obviously the big FMIC is blocking most of the radiator. Is there any way to address this without changing the FMIC? I'm using two slimline fans, no AC condensor, water/coolant/water wetter, Fluidyne radiator, and I'm even using the Talon front grill since it has openings that will allow some air to bypass the FMIC and go directly into the radiator.

Some things I think will help that I will eventually do - fiberglass/cf hood with a vent, some ducting to help additional airflow get to the radiator, water injection, possibly modify the front bumper cover (and bumper) to allow more airflow, etc. Anything else I can do? Maybe a FMIC spayer?

 

[DSMunknown]

perhaps putting on an NX Inter-cooler on the backside of the fmic would help cool the radiator too. but in the end it may not be worth it.


one of my earlier posts that i am ashamed of posting up:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=145453


EDIT: btw greg collier seems to be doing quite well with his smic :shrugs:
http://www.gregcollier.com/Pages/Modifications.htm
http://www.dsmtuners.com/gallery/showimage.php?i=59829&catid=member&imageuser=15378
http://www.dsmtuners.com/gallery/showimage.php?i=46415&catid=member&imageuser=15378
http://www.dsmtuners.com/gallery/showimage.php?i=25287&catid=member&imageuser=15378

 

[AWD_Launch]

We just did a hood scoop right behind the passenger head light and it worked out great. PM a1320eclipse for more questions about it. It looks okay but drops the intake temps real low which should help out with engine temps and it lets all the hot air out from the engine bay.

 

[crazyboost]

For a while I was scared ### my temp gauge would sometimes get into the area between the halfway mark and the hash mark before the red part, i thought that it could be too hot to drive as soon as it started getting closer towards the hash mark. Then i hooked up my laptop to see what the temp said and the coolant temp wasn't very high at all. It started out around 165 when my gauge was in the middle and then increased to about 175/178. My stock temp gauge started to rise above the halfway point and my coolant temp readings were about 192/195/198. When the gauge started getting closer to the hash mark I checked them again and the temps were only about 203/206 before they went back down. Is that normal? Is my gauge messed up or my logger? Should the logger read in increments like that (it wouldu only read 192 195 or 198 nothing in between)? what is normal operating temp and how come my gauge reads so high when the actual coolant temps (according to laptop) read fairly low?

 

[Greg Collier]

Chris, I’m so glad to see you out there ripping up the road courses. Where were you running, how were your times, what set of wheels/tires did you end up going with?

Your cooling woes: I no longer run the SMIC because of the big horsepower I’m pushing and I need to update my car modifications on my website. I have however updated them on my profile here…

Now that you’re running a 2.3 stroker and making 434 WHP, the Fluidyne won’t cut it. The Fluidyne is great for up to 300hp. I went with the 52mm PWR radiator for the extra coolant capacity and the better air flow design. I’ve also done a “V” mount application with my new PTE FMIC and I’m getting plenty of air to the radiator. The vent on the hood above the turbo is a “must” as you’re trapping all the hot air from your turbo/exhaust manifold in front of your fans. With this application the air comes through the radiator, up past the turbo, then out through the vent. You can even feel the hot air escaping through the vent via the fans when the car is sitting at idle. What about your oil cooler, have you upgraded? Do you still have your AC unit intact. (If so, remove it!)

Keep in mind if you plan on racing no anti-freeze is allowed on the track, it’s water and Water Wetter only.

We spend so much time and money making more horsepower and that same energy has to be spent on cooling it… the alternative may be

 

[alex99gst]

I don't know if you saw this or not, bit it worked out for these gusy. I need to do something like this soon.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=224201

 

[oddrob]

I would always go with what the ECU tells you.