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Question about water temps [Merged 5-8] temperature coolant running

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dsmtrance

20+ Year Contributor
438
1
Mar 26, 2002
Savannah, Georgia
What is considered getting too hot? I have heard diff. #'s. I ask b/c I noticed that my car got up to 212 at idle last night after a few hard runs (check out my other posts for more info on my car's rebirth!!!). At a "start-up" idle it'll stay between 194-197 though. FYI, I have a 16psi rad cap, 180 deg. therm, 12" 1400cfm rad fan, and a Fluidyne rad. I'm just wondering what would cause it to run hotter at idle like that (didn't before with the RRE kit....has the IRC street kit now). Any ideas???
 
Some friends have reported seeing just such a setup (on a DSM, coincidentally) at a track day a few years ago. The owner claimed it was quite effective. I had considered installing a motorcycle radiator in the SMIC location, fed by the hot side line from the turbo. Then I figgered I wasn't going to make enough HP to warrant a frontmount anyway, or ever delete my beloved A/C. If anyone has tried this I'd like to hear how it works, conversely, if anyone wants to try it, I want full credit for the idea. :D
 
The rear radiator is a RRE trick that worked pretty well...
 

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Thats different than how I have mine mounted. Mine is completely under the rear pan. I might have to remove the rear bumber cover and get some good snap shots of it. It is mounted where you would typically mount a license plate.

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Back when I had the big FMIC on the car I used to spray water on the radiator and inter cooler. Basically I had a pair of pumps. One for water injection and another to run the rad/FMIC sprayers. I used a 5 gallon tank strapped down in the back to supply everything. It worked great until the pumps gave out without warning and I popped a head gasket. I now use a VR4 windshield washer tank and pump to spray my Supra SMIC. Its triggered off a boost switch plumbed into inter cooler pipping. Between the shurflo pumps and a stock washer bottle pump I would go washer pump. The shurflo pumps have not been very reliable for me.

If you are going to spend a lot of time road racing you're going to have to seriously think about a big SMIC, a v-mount FMIC, or some sort of "work-around" like the water spraying I mention above. As you know I went to the Supra SMIC which is working out for me up to about 18psi/350ish Hp. To get more I would have to go back to water/meth injection.
 
RusherRacing said:
Thats different than how I have mine mounted. Mine is completely under the rear pan. I might have to remove the rear bumber cover and get some good snap shots of it. It is mounted where you would typically mount a license plate.

That's sweet :thumb:
 
My cooling temps are running extremely low. Around town it runs about 178 -80ish. Once I hit the freeway, temps drop down to 156-60ish. I watch my temp gage go from midway to right above the C sign. I have a new 180 Stat in there. Any reason for this????
 
WOW! This is a first, most of the time people are complaining about overheating!

I'd definately suspect the thermostat. Check it, and if it is stuck, replace it with an OEM one.
 
Ok, I'll try a new OEM one. But if the thermostat was stuck, on startup wouldn't I see the water moving from the water pump pushing it with the water cap off?
 
Well yeah I'll have any extra 1, but if that not it, then I will be forced to go back to my stock radiator :( My A/C has never blown so cold!!! Laterr
 
Talontsi150 said:
My cooling temps are running extremely low. Around town it runs about 178 -80ish. Once I hit the freeway, temps drop down to 156-60ish. I watch my temp gage go from midway to right above the C sign. I have a new 180 Stat in there. Any reason for this????
450whpOMG :confused: I would double check the engine coolant temperature sensor.
 
Hey guys,


The problem is fixed. Yes it was the thermostat, I pulled it out the car and it was bent to the left and open.... I'm reading off the AEM Software for my temps. Maybe AEM is wrong. But when I turn on my heater, its warm which i know its getting water from the Motor...

I went to Napa and they gave me a Stainless Steel thermostat 180 temp, life time warranty. I have never seen a thermostat made so well. Napa also assure me that it will never rust!!.
 
Now I will go out and look for a new Engine temp sensor.... It maybe wrong... But now I do have a steady temp on my stock gage and Aem... So basicly I should be looking for 200+ water temps? Also I'm running 2 Flex a lite's fans, one 12" push and one 14" pull on a Koyo radiator....
 
Ok i've read and read and read and have done just about everything i can think of to keep the temps down. Yes the car has an FMIC on it. I have, replaced the radiator with a koyo unit, water pump has 5,xxx on it, 1.3 bar cap, 30/70 mix, wired both fans to run at all times, boxed in the space between the fmic and radiator. A/C core is removed, also i've heat wraped the manifold. What is left? Should i look into an external oil cooler? Right now the temps while cruising are 200-210 and at idle will climb up to 213. Oh yeah compression is 190+ on all cylinders. And i have cut more air ducts in the front facia to get fresh air to the radiator. Any other ideas would be great.
 
Just to update, today i decided to take a shot at putting a 170 thermostat in. I know that they don't make your car run cooler, they just delay the time the car gets too hot. We'll i put that in and now the car runs from 179-186 so i know that the thermostat did something. This is after 30mins of driving too. Hopefully my high temp problems are over with now.
 
Hey Marcus, its Jason with the Orange 2g. You can borrow some of my heat if you like, LOL. Im running 210-220ish. I dont know if the sending unit is right, but the logger shows those temps. Might have to see what I can bribe you with to help me figure it out, ;-)
 
this same thing use to happen to me. i use to take the car out for a while do some pulls and the needle would move towards the middle between C and H. then when i would cruise it would sometimes drop all the way down to the C again, the car was getting colder faster then it would get hot. now i am not trying to jack this thread but i was planning on replacing my thermostat anyway. i have dsmlink and i read that you can adjust for different thermostat temps, if this is the case should i get a lower then stock degree thermostat? if so, how low? i heard that if you run the lower thermos then you can usually up the boost and run more timing because of the drop in temps. what i am trying to ask basically is what are the benefits and downfalls of running lets say like a 160* thermo? what is stock again, 190* or something?
thanks for the help, and if this conflicts with this thread in any manner i will be more then happy to start another thread.
later
 
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