Coolant Temps, Running Lean??

[Grimis]

ok, i've pulled everying i had into this rebuild and now im getting kicked in the face.

I got evo scan so this is where my info is coming from.

Car sits and idles around 210/216, then around town 226 and on the highway 230/240 it bounces and sits around 226/230 after it makes up its mind.

Its a fresh rebuild, replaced the T-stat twice, flushed the rad, bleed the system, new water pump and i cant figure it out. I know having a FMIC adds to the temps but this high??

Im going to pull the plugs tomorrow and see what they say, but its a stock rebuild 7bolt, with stock injectors, fuel setup, 14b at 11lbs I dont know what else to do, i have really no one local to ask, you guys here have been great help all the way (last 3years). Im just stumped.

So it sits out back till i figure out whats up. thanks.

 

[lacroixdp]

That wont work on our cars, behind the hood is a low pressure spot. If the hood is raised up in the back, the air will hit the windshield and shove more air into the engine bay causing the engine bay to become more positive in pressure thus preventing as much air entering from the radiator side. if you dont believe me tape some short pieces of string to the back of your hood with thise mod done and at 70mph tell me what those pieces of string are doing.

I've done it plenty of times - what you're referring to is tufting to determine the airflow while at speed. I've never had to do it to a 1G, but I've done it to plenty of 2G's with great success. When we tufted the airflow afterward it showed positive airflow coming out of the back of the hood, which was sucking hot air from under the hood. It was the very first thing we did with 2G's overheating after an intercooler install and we seldom had to take further steps to quell heat problem afterwards. Are you referring to the 1G specifically with this low pressure area?

 

[LandoAWD]

I know need2boostpsi is right, at least on the 1gs. We had a rather heated discussion on Talk very recently about this.

It also generates lift.

 

[lacroixdp]

That's very good to know, although I've never had quite as bad of overheating problem in the 1Gs!

 

[LandoAWD]

I do. Maybe I should replace the dead fan...

 

[mnetwork]

Any update on this?

 

[Grimis]

Any update on this?

i've been sick so i haven't had a chance to do anything with it. It goes in on moday (27th) but i think im going to try a new rad first. if its that great if not, shop gets it, and if they cant figure it out, for sale it goes. I'll update this as soon as i get to it, being sick when you have nice weather out sucks

 

[mnetwork]

Wow, sorry to hear that. I'm curious to see what happens with this.

 

[Grimis]

yeah, it runs fine but the temps im getting scare me so a trip around the block to keep the fluids in check and parked it gets. Just my sinus are going nuts, i go out side and become a sneeze factory and it sucks .

 

[Grimis]

new Mishimoto(sp) radiator, still same thing but the bottom rad pipe now gets warmer ...

taking it to the shop tomorrow asking for a leakdown test and a compression test. If it pass's then only thing i can think of is the water pump.

if its bad, then it goes up for sale, Im out of funds, and im out of patience with this thing.

 

[mnetwork]

Keep us updated.

 

[Grimis]

welp...

Its not the rad (replaced the with a new one), its not the water pump, flows like a flushed tolet, not the head gasket (leak and compression came back solid)...

they ran 2 thermo sensors in the coolant (guess the cap type?) came back that its hitting 190-215 max... SO its my ECU reading the info wrong, evoscan is reporting 25-28 degs hotter then what it is, as well as the ecu, so i have a ecu problem and need to get it fixed as its screwing with the tune of the car, hotter more timing pulled etc. SO... Going to hunt down a 95 ecu and see what happens as well a new engine temp sensor...

glad i spent the 115 for them to take the time and trouble shoot it, they wasn't giving up.

 

[No_Skillz]

That cap type will read lower than what your ECU reads because of the location. The ECU might still be correct. If I'm not mistaken, the temp sensors that control the fans are different than what the ECU reads. Make sure both of them are working. My temp sender for the fans went bad and they wouldn't come on until 230*. Now I just keep them on through DSMLink.

 

[Jetrosr]

Little thread hijack here.

At what temp do you have to start worrying about engine damage, cylinder head warp etc?

I was JUST about to make a post about this VERY same problems but the original posters first post describes my problem almost exactly.

Well, other then the fact this problem JUST started for me this year. I've been running the same setup for the past 6 years and my temps rarely go above 205F but this year, after a cylinder head rebuild, new head gasket etc, as the weather got warm out, my temps are skyrocketing.

I'm seeing 210~216 on the highway and 220~226 in the city. I was getting scared to drive my car, I can't afford to replace the head again. Took me 6 months to get it rebuilt this last time because of funds or lack of anyway.

I only have one fan though but it's NEVER been a problem til this year. I thought maybe there was an issue with the new head but before it got warm, my temps were 200~205 as normal.


I have no heat shield, never have.

Thought about water wetter, but does it really work? I have mostly water in there now, not much anti-freeze because I have to keep adding water, no over flow, no room for one but in 6 years, never a problem, I just add water every week or so.

Could it maybe be time to replace the thermostat? How often do they go out?

My wideband has me bouncing around 14:7~15.5'ish normal driving. The boost is turned down from 18psi to 10psi because I was trying to diagnose another issue with a fuel cut or something that turned out to be maybe a bad coil pack? Just haven't turned it back up.

Mine is doing the exact same thing after a head rebuild. Mine is stock and even with the tstat out it wants to run 209-216 stopped in traffic. I'm using MMCD on a Palm. Turning on the A/C (both fans) helps some. Now that the humidity and temps have come down it's a little better.

What brand of gasket did you use for the HG? I used a Victor-Reinz and ARP headstuds.

 

[Grimis]

That cap type will read lower than what your ECU reads because of the location. The ECU might still be correct. If I'm not mistaken, the temp sensors that control the fans are different than what the ECU reads. Make sure both of them are working. My temp sender for the fans went bad and they wouldn't come on until 230*. Now I just keep them on through DSMLink.

cap isnt that far from where the sensor pulls there reading, it could be electrical but im going to get an aftermarket temp gauge, and put it inline with the upper rad hose and see what it says.

 

[Grimis]

well its not the ecu, not by a long shot, how does "breached Head gasket" grab ya?? ,, so its the HG, looks like maybe some of the bolts streatched and where bad from the get go ( i bought oem new ones but will never again) so i have a OEM head gasket, arp's, oem t-stat and a new cap on its way, this weekends project is to yank the head, then monday take it to get a once over to make sure its still flat etc and no other problems, and then the guy is going to check the block in the car. Then the fun of putting it all back to gether...... fun fun fun!!

 

[mnetwork]

What proved that it was the hg?

 

[Grimis]

exhaust gas test for the coolant and its pushing out the front right corner (alt/ps side)

 

[pboglio]

Yep, pushing coolant will cause the motor to overheat, been there myself. ARP's put a stop to that nonsense.

Any temperature and pressure combo that boils the fluid is what will hurt the motor, would depend on the coolant/water mix ratio and cap pressure. Once you boil the cylinder head temps are going to skyrocket since you now have air pockets everywhere.

 

[scott91370]

I have been fighting this same problem for quite some time. I am ready to take it to the shop and hope they can diagnose it. I am thinking HG or water pump. All coolant parts are new but it's still getting warm.

Hope you get yours straightened out!

 

[Grimis]

yeah, its out back waiting for the weather to get a bit warmer and not so dang blasted wet, then ill be able to get it put back together and see whats up. Also found i have a leaky injector so on a hunt for a good stock one(well all 4 really)

 

[Grimis]

welp, got it all put back together and such, fired it up, nothing, well i put the plug wheres backwords, 4213 and so 4123 :tape: :bang: after that she fired right up and , what a feeling, what sound, ran it for 30mins or so and it got to as high as 219 at idle and droped right back down to 212esh and stayed for awhile and came back up and fans kicked on, temps droped yada yada yada, so im off to get some rtv and recheck/torge the arps and bolt down the valve cover and pull her around front.

Just want to say thanks to the peeps here and such,

Thanks
Chuck.

 

[mnetwork]

Keep us updated.

 

[Grimis]

ok, winter wasnt a issue it was cold.

so to bring this back from the dead with a solid update.

Its fixed. I feel bad as i was up in arms with the ECU. Well i sent the ecu in to get V3 Lite, and well it had a blown sensor ground, in turn can cause alot of sensors to miss read etc etc. Got it back installed it and now the temps are normal and my fans come on and off, and never gets over 210/213 now.

I just got done installing the slim fan and shrowd kit from Mitsumoto (sp) and it takes a good bit now to get it to 210 and when they kick on , drops to 200, and kick off again so everything is working now just to get it tuned.

so recap, it wasnt the head gasket, shady block work, the 4 thermistat caps, upper hose, lower hose, 4 thermistats nor the water pump......It was the ECU...

 

[olmytsi]

Damn!

 

[mnetwork]

well its not the ecu, not by a long shot, how does "breached Head gasket" grab ya?? ,, so its the HG, looks like maybe some of the bolts streatched and where bad from the get go ( i bought oem new ones but will never again) so i have a OEM head gasket, arp's, oem t-stat and a new cap on its way, this weekends project is to yank the head, then monday take it to get a once over to make sure its still flat etc and no other problems, and then the guy is going to check the block in the car. Then the fun of putting it all back to gether...... fun fun fun!!

Didn't you originally have a different ecu when you started having this problem? Also, didn't you prove the headgasket was leaking?