Question about water temps [Merged 5-8] temperature coolant running

[dsmtrance]

What is considered getting too hot? I have heard diff. #'s. I ask b/c I noticed that my car got up to 212 at idle last night after a few hard runs (check out my other posts for more info on my car's rebirth!!!). At a "start-up" idle it'll stay between 194-197 though. FYI, I have a 16psi rad cap, 180 deg. therm, 12" 1400cfm rad fan, and a Fluidyne rad. I'm just wondering what would cause it to run hotter at idle like that (didn't before with the RRE kit....has the IRC street kit now). Any ideas???

 

[talonTSIDriver]

A combustion leak won't always be burning coolant, as it may only leak compression into the cooling system, cylinder pressure is WAY higher than cooling system pressure.

Your forgetting you only have compression on your power stroke. There are times the cylinder see's lots of vacuum.

 

[Jetrosr]

Your forgetting you only have compression on your power stroke. There are times the cylinder see's lots of vacuum.

Seen them leak only compression and not burn coolant. Head was cracked in 6 places with clean plugs/ cylinders. You forgot to toss logic out the window before you pop the hood.

 

[ShadeTreeDSM]

Sorry, overlapped posts. Has this been consistent since this engine build, or something that just developed? Your profile says you're a mech. Try compression test with your cooling system pressure tester installed. If you have a compression leak the gauge will spike or jump around. Does it ever overheat/boil over? Any signs of preignition or other overheating symptoms? Or do you shut down before it gets to that point?

Just to clarify, starts getting hot on a cold start, 10 sec shutdown, then drive as long as you want @ 180F? Repeats on next cold start? Will do it if it you just idle it, or only when you drive it?

Just curious how driveable these things are with heavy mods? All of my expirience is with small block V8's, once you pass a certain point, they're not practical to drive every day. Mine is bone stock and not running, but I'd like to build a little sleeper out of it.

Has this been consistent since this engine build, or something that just developed?

has been happening recently (last 2 months)

Does it ever overheat/boil over?

when i shut the car off, sometimes the overflow will fill up & spit out onto the floor

Any signs of preignition or other overheating symptoms?

nope car runs fine, i pulled the plugs out and they look good too, the electrodes and burnt or corroded away

Just to clarify, starts getting hot on a cold start, 10 sec shutdown, then drive as long as you want @ 180F? Repeats on next cold start? Will do it if it you just idle it, or only when you drive it?

yea after the 10sec shutdown it'll do it again at the next cold start, it'll do it at idle too, if i shut it down once again the temps will go back to 180* until next time i drive.



and im not to the point yet where it isnt driveable on the street, im far from it, its a 400awhp car

 

[Jetrosr]

There has to be a cut seal, a hairline crack, air pulling thru some threads somewhere. Does the level in the overflow drop after it sits? (overnight, full cool down) There has to be a leak when things are cold and contracted that seals when things get hot and expand. I'm afraid youre going to have to dig deep for this one. Try the compression test method I described earlier after the engine is completely cool. You might also try pressure testing the cooling system overnight and see if you find a puddle (make sure you pull the plugs and peek in there) Another approach would be to drive it until it gets worse. Downside there is the engine may destroy itself before you catch it.

 

[ricktb]

When my reservoir would overflow when hot, and almost empty while cold, turns out I had an air pocket. A healthy system should stay between the max and min line on the reservoir, unless the air is in there somehow?

I'd repurge and replace the coolant lid, to make sure the lid can hold the full 13 psi of pressure. If the problem still exists then pressure test?

 

[slowgsr]

Just curious what is normal, from what i have seen 210ish from searching..

Im seeing 195-210ish and it kinda worries me. Everything on the cooling system is new and im not loosing any coolant, or leaking any exhaust into the coolant etc etc.. (the thermostat was NOT replaced).

I *think*, that my thermostat may be sticking closed, because when im driving the temps are 195, but at idle i see 210. Im getting this reading from the thermostat housing, on the engine side.

I think i may replace the thermostat and see what happens.

Full Koyo Rad, 10 & 12" puller slimfans, Mitsu waterpump, 60/40 mix with wetter water. Precision 600hp IC, and AC removed, the rad should be getting pretty good airflow.

Is 200-210 alright? Or is it TOO hot...? What do you all think.

I will replace the thermostat however.. Just to be safe

 

[Avionixx]

I get a steady 200F during nice weather (Between 60-70 degrees ambient temp) and I saw as high as 210F during the recent heatwave here in California. This is with the stock radiator, stock rad fan (no A/C fan, but condenser in place), 3" thick FMIC, and a 190F thermostat. With the rad fan constantly running, I can get the temps around 196F.

It's normal to get higher temps at idle since you're getting close to no airflow over the radiator; at least until the fan kicks in.

 

[wangboy925]

I get 192 F while cruising but I have no FMIC. Stock fans, stock radiator, stock A/C. On hard pulls I see at most 208 F.

 

[slowgsr]

Ok, cool.

I just went and picked up a new thermostat and radiator cap.. Just to be on the 'safe' side

I got 2 thermostats, a 180F, and a 160F... although im going to install the 180 and see how that does, the 160 seems way too cold.

The car is going to the dyno on saturday, and i don't want to have any issues with it getting hot between pulls, since dyno tuning is not cheap

 

[meliketoball]

I get 195-208 degrees. Stock car with a license plate in the front.

 

[50trimmed1g]

220 here and on hard acceleration--230. Don't feel bad at all man.

 

[PieEyedPiper]

Agreed. OP, your temps are within normal range. Unless I'm mistaken the ECU pulls timing at anything under 179* and anything over 206*.

50trimmed1g, I'd risk a wager that your temps are a tad high, especially since we know that the ECU will pull timing at those kinds of temps. Do you have a fatty FMIC or something?

 

[kahl23]

220 here and on hard acceleration--230. Don't feel bad at all man.

+1

Last season we had a really annoying problem with pushing coolant, hopefully fixed it over the winter when we changed setups. At the end of a run I would be seeing 230+ temps and have a full overflow tank, so those sound high to me.

 

[gsxtasy]

Agreed. OP, your temps are within normal range. Unless I'm mistaken the ECU pulls timing at anything under 196* and anything over 206*.

50trimmed1g, I'd risk a wager that your temps are a tad high, especially since we know that the ECU will pull timing at those kinds of temps. Do you have a fatty FMIC or something?

Not completely true, your car needs to be above 179* for it to get into learn mode, above 206* it pulls 1 degree of timing, and above 224* it pulls 2 degrees.

 

[turbosax2]

Enter ECU Learn Mode :: 170F (77C)
Coolant Fan ON :: 200F (93C)
Pull 1 degree timing :: 206F (97C)
Pull 2 degree timing :: 224F (107C)
Enter Open Loop Mode :: 228F (109C)
Default Coolant CEL :: 235F (113C)
A/C Override :: 240F (115C)

Edit: This info is for 2g's.

 

[boosted86]

Enter ECU Learn Mode :: 170F (77C)
Coolant Fan ON :: 200F (93C)
Pull 1 degree timing :: 206F (97C)
Pull 2 degree timing :: 224F (107C)
Enter Open Loop Mode :: 228F (109C)
Default Coolant CEL :: 235F (113C)
A/C Override :: 240F (115C)

nice,, i always wondered at what point the ecu would go into openloop mode if things got to hot...good info.

 

[illeffekt vr-4]

I get 187* cruising and 193* at idle and in heavy stop and go traffic.
This is with:
50/50 coolant/water mix
civic 1/2 size radiator
14" puller fan
180* thermostat

Car does have a big FMIC but I don't have A/C anymore.

During summer time I change the mix to 30/70 coolant/water(distilled water) mix and drop in a bottle of water wetter.

 

[eder-loco]

i noticed dsmlink logged 210 at most when getting tuned in a afternoon being about 70F outside.

with frontmount,
stock radiator, 2x 12fans,
no a/c.
and regular 50/50mixed coolant.

 

[daren_p]

Ok, cool.

I just went and picked up a new thermostat and radiator cap.. Just to be on the 'safe' side

I got 2 thermostats, a 180F, and a 160F... although im going to install the 180 and see how that does, the 160 seems way too cold.

The car is going to the dyno on saturday, and i don't want to have any issues with it getting hot between pulls, since dyno tuning is not cheap

Let us know if you see any changes by swapping to a lower temp thermostat. I know in other vehicles this did a good job of reducing my cruise temps but most tend to say it won't in our applications (though I think it still may).

 

[Byrd]

My setup: cruising with no fans on during the middle of the day is 176. When stopped it quickly rises and I turn the fans on. I'm thinking I need to go to a 190* thermostat so dsmlink doesn't pull timing.

Going 80+ and after hard pulls I see 183-186.

Koyo Rad, 2x 10" fans direct wired, Huge FMIC, 180* 2g stat.

 

[b00stedtalon2]

I'm seeing around 140-150F at cruise with no fan. 170F at max if i'm sitting in traffic with no fan. But I believe there is a problem with my setup. Oh well I'm not complaining

 

[Smokin80]

?? i like running at 170ish degrees at the track because i can get away with more timing....just use the coolant offset feature in dsmlink and the fans and ecu will work as if it was stock. IE. wont pull any timing.

 

[slowgsr]

Well im running AEM EMS, so as far as temps vs timing being pulled etc, im sure that can be adjusted accordingly.

However, i will post back after another hot day, its cool out again today, yesterday was the first day we have had above 25 deg C, and it was very humid.

 

[dsm-onster]

You're in the normal range. I've noticed no difference lowering temps 10-15 degrees. I did swap in a 160 degree t-stat and offset the temp with dsmlink. . . It allowed me to run 2 more psi of boost on the same timing/fuel table without seeing knock. . . That's good stuff.

 

[andy4g63]

185-190* while cruising and 195-200* @ idle traffic,but if I want to I turn the AC fan ON and drops more at idle to a 190 or less.