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Question about water temps [Merged 5-8] temperature coolant running

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dsmtrance

20+ Year Contributor
438
1
Mar 26, 2002
Savannah, Georgia
What is considered getting too hot? I have heard diff. #'s. I ask b/c I noticed that my car got up to 212 at idle last night after a few hard runs (check out my other posts for more info on my car's rebirth!!!). At a "start-up" idle it'll stay between 194-197 though. FYI, I have a 16psi rad cap, 180 deg. therm, 12" 1400cfm rad fan, and a Fluidyne rad. I'm just wondering what would cause it to run hotter at idle like that (didn't before with the RRE kit....has the IRC street kit now). Any ideas???
 
thanks for the quick reply oddrob, is it normal for the ecu to say the coolant temp goes from 192 to 195 to 198 or should it not go in increments of three?
 
oddrob said:
I would always go with what the ECU tells you.

As a second point on this one, I've got an aftermarket gauge and a logger. The two typically are in agreement...

-M
 
Greg Collier said:
The vent on the hood above the turbo is a “must” as you’re trapping all the hot air from your turbo/exhaust manifold in front of your fans. With this application the air comes through the radiator, up past the turbo, then out through the vent. You can even feel the hot air escaping through the vent via the fans when the car is sitting at idle.
I just wanted to add that I agree with Greg. On my stock turbo car, I can see hot air escaping through the vent above the turbo/exhaust manifold. :thumb:
 
I don't see increments of 1 on mine. Some temps I usually see are 196,200,206,210 etc. I too would think the datalogger temps would/should be the correct ones. Those temps seem to be normal for someone running a fmic setup.
 
Damn Greg, if I didn't drive the car on the street, I'd get rid of the bumper and would probably be able to do a similar FMIC mount as you... not an option at this point, not when my wife is a passenger in the car on the way to track days.

I didn't realize there was a better option than Fluidyne. I'll check into the PWR - are there different size PWR's available? Most sites don't list the size. I already am using a Setrab oil cooler. I might consider cutting a hole in the stock hood instead of waiting until I can find some cash for a fiberglass hood. I'll also look into making some ducting like in the thread that Alex linked to.
 
Ludachris said:
Damn Greg, if I didn't drive the car on the street, I'd get rid of the bumper and would probably be able to do a similar FMIC mount as you... not an option at this point, not when my wife is a passenger in the car on the way to track days.

I didn't realize there was a better option than Fluidyne. I'll check into the PWR - are there different size PWR's available? Most sites don't list the size. I already am using a Setrab oil cooler. I might consider cutting a hole in the stock hood instead of waiting until I can find some cash for a fiberglass hood. I'll also look into making some ducting like in the thread that Alex linked to.


:cry:wah... :cry: wah :cry: wah... Well I'm sure you at least got rid of your big-ol AC right? OMG The vent in the hood will do wonders!
http://www.pwr-performance.com/ is the PWR site. The 52mm is a custom size that they built for me and Scot Gray... they'll have it on file I'm sure. I'm also running a looped breather system with my radiator...

;)
 
Chris be wary of just cutting holes into the sheetmetal. You could very well end up causing turbulence and reducing effective flow through the radiator even. If you intend to keep the stock hood pick up a carbontrix carbonfiber vent and install that. A couple of the members here have done so.

I'm hoping that these front bumper vents and this vis vented hood will help keep mine tolerable. I know I'm going to have to upgrade the radiator, but the stocker is getting the job done for right now.

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Designed originally for racing engines, today’s compact production engines can also benefit from the used of GReddy’s Radiator Bleed Tank. By mounting the tank high up in the engine compartment, you can be assured that of a fully filled system with room for air expansion, thus reducing chances of overheating due to air-lock.

This also a picture of the new engine installed with a huge story behind it...
 

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Yea, I'm like a proud little father of that thing, especially since I got it for free. (well the insurance man payed for it)

That greddy unit is a cool looking little device. Where would one pick one up?
 
Oh and Greg, I was at La Junta Raceway - basically an old airport runway conversion, nothing to write home about. It was 2.5 hours away, hot both days, and plenty of bugs out there to drive you crazy. I was running 1:04 - 1:05 lap times on my Kumho 712's and my pads were gone by the end of the event. I had to limp the car home with metal on metal, again. I haven't got the new wheels and tires yet, as I'm waiting for a check to clear before I ship out my old wheels to a buyer and order my new ones. I'll be going with Enkei RPF1's with Toyo RA-1 tires.

I think the fastest lap time of the weekend was a high :57. With the new brakes (and hopefully new tires) for the next event in July, I'm hoping to be able to turn in some fast laps at Pueblo.
 
Ludachris said:
As for hood vents, do you guys think the Mini Cooper vents might work (mounting them backwords of course):

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You definitely need to make sure what ever vent material you use won't melt. It gets really hot up there and I've seen plastic vents completely melt. Get a CarbonTrix 13 x 10 vent from Road Race Motorsports for $89.00, when you change hoods take the vent off the old one and put it on the new one...
 

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Greg Collier said:
You definitely need to make sure what ever vent material you use won't melt. It gets really hot up there and I've seen plastic vents completely melt. Get a CarbonTrix 13 x 10 vent from Road Race Motorsports for $89.00, when you change hoods take the vent off the old one and put it on the new one...


Agreed, unless the cooper vent is bigger than I remember and shaped diffferently than I remember, and cheaper than I remember, the carbontrix wins big.

I was actually going to go through with a carbontrix vent on my hood before I found out VIS made the hood I bought.
 
I've got a rather cobby but effective hood vent and, if you look in my gallery, at photos 3-4, I've got a variation of Greg's coolant catch system, & while I can't say what my actual track temp is, (sorry, oem guage) I can say it never goes higher than it does in daily driving. I am still on the stock smic, however I still have functional a/c. (What good is a summer d/d without a/c?!) Since I am not actually racing, I still run 50/50 water coolant mix with water wetter. Hope this helps.
I may someday have to get a hood like Kyle's... After I get a temp guage.
 
well, i made a post a few weeks ago about why my car could be having some of the problems it had. after MUCH research ive established its a flow issue due to the new intercooler, and that not having heat shields COULD affect it, but not enough to cause issues.

Well it was lready getting hot here and there, so today i finally burped the coolant system, and i then proceeded to re-install the front bumper.

now that the bumper is in place, i think it may be getting hot even EASIER!!!

so here's the plan, first a 1.3 bar radiator cap, then a 160 or 170 t-stat, followed by a koyo radiator and 2 big ass skinny fans.

should i be set after all this?

oh yah and one of those custom road sign air dams underneath haha.

what fans will fit with the j-pipe there and the thicker radiator?
 
zirgo makes nice fans for a little cheaper than Flexalite
Im running 2 12in puller fans on my Fluidyne (had to make custom brackets)
Also try using some water wetter that can keep you water a bit cooler too
 
now on the fan...is it set to stay off with the car off? or is it supposed to stay on if the car is in the on position and the car is off?
 
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