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Optima batteries [Merged 10-6]

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logic

20+ Year Contributor
921
35
Jun 11, 2002
Berkeley, California
Hi,

I've been doing a little battery research. I've settled on Optima, based on comments I've seen regarding them and the fact that they're a sealed setup. I'm now looking at the various versions of batteries that they produce, and I've noticed very little difference (from reading over their techinical specifications) between their various "colors" (red for engine use, blue for marine, yellow for deep cycle applications). For reference, here are links to the specs they publish for each major type of battery:

The "Red Top 34" engine starter battery:
http://www.optimabatteries.com/products/pdf/34.pdf

The "Blue Top 34" dual-terminal marine starter battery:
http://www.optimabatteries.com/products/pdf/34M.pdf

The "Yellow Top 34" dual-terminal deep cycle battery:
http://www.optimabatteries.com/products/pdf/D34.pdf

My question, then, is simple: what's the difference, besides packaging? The marine battery literature makes claims about not discharging as much over time and recharging faster, but that would seem to be about it between the red and blue (the yellow has a few obvious differences, such as resistance and power output). Am I misreading, or is there really very little real-world difference?

For the curious: the reason I'm asking is because I'd like to be able to run the blue-top to match the rest of the underhood setup (along with any advantages that might come from the discharging characteristics; it sounds like the perfect setup for a car that's stored over winter, for example). That's the kind of eraser-head riceboi I am. :)

(I was a little unsure of whether to post this in the Basic/Newbie forum, or in the 2.0 Turbo Performance forum. Mods, please feel free to move if you think this is too basic.)
 
I wouldn't bother with that battery. It cost $124 and you had better believe shipping is more than $15. I bought my red top optima at pepboy's for like $139.00. It fit in my gst beautifully. I hate waiting for things to be shipped to me and will only do so if I am saving enough money to bother.
 
tighty said:
So what your saying...is that it won't hurt to use it...but I will have to relocate to the rear of the car...because it won't fit under the hood?

If you cant get it to fit on the battery tray, then yeah, move it to the trunk. Its not hard, frees up space under the hood, and batteries dont like underhood temps that much. I dont think it would hurt to use this battery. Just dont drain it dry. And besides, people who dont know much about cars but think they do think its fantastic to see the battery in the trunk. :cool:
 
Okay, so from reading the above link that Defiant posted, I conclude that the blue top is a yellow top that can be stuck in a closet for a long time and come back just as strong. Basically like boats that may spend all fall and winter in storage. All of them can do that, but the blue is best at it. That doesn't necessarily mean more performance for a car, or does it? Might want to contact Optima.
 
We have Optimas in all 3 of our cars:
* A red top in my 1992 Laser RS (fits fine)
* A blue top in my fiance's 1999 Eclipse GSX (fits fine)
* A yellow top in my Jeep Wrangler (there's room for about 5 of them under the hood)

They're good batteries, and they come in rice-y colors. And they fit just fine, no modifications, it passes tech each time we go to the track or at autocross.
 
JPGRL said:
We have Optimas in all 3 of our cars:
* A red top in my 1992 Laser RS (fits fine)
* A blue top in my fiance's 1999 Eclipse GSX (fits fine)
* A yellow top in my Jeep Wrangler (there's room for about 5 of them under the hood)

They're good batteries, and they come in rice-y colors. And they fit just fine, no modifications, it passes tech each time we go to the track or at autocross.

Thanks JPGRL, your post has been most helpful. One more thing that would really help since your fiance has one in his car...do you know what the model # of the blue top is that he is using? Thanks.
 
He's using a D34M and, like I said, all the mounting brackets and everything work just fine with it.
 
I recommend a yellow top. Like stated above they work great and are made for automotive use. I figure that if it's made for auto motive use we should use it for that. Not like the blue which are for marine. If they were better for automotive use than the yellows dont you think that they would be made for that...?
Just my $.02
 
The only real difference between a yellow top and a blue top is that the blue top has an extra set of screw-type terminals next to the main ones. I have a D34M (Group 34/78 equivalent) blue top in my car (as stated by 98autogstspyder above) and it's been starting my car like a charm for almost a year. It's a tad big for the battery tray, but it's not a problem unless you lose your battery tie down bracket like I did. :mad:

The good thing about the extra set of terminals is that you can hook up other stuff to it-- for instance, I'm running my fuel pump rewire directly off the 2nd positive post and the ring terminal fits it perfectly.
 
doug said:
The good thing about the extra set of terminals is that you can hook up other stuff to it-- for instance, I'm running my fuel pump rewire directly off the 2nd positive post and the ring terminal fits it perfectly.

Exactly why I have been looking at this one. I have about 10 wires hooked up to my positive and its really crappy =(. Plus everything else under the hood is blue accented...so...
 
Alright, so its down to either getting the blue top 34m or d34m. The only difference www.optimabatterysales.com shows between the two is:

34m deep cycles = 50 Price = 101.00
d34m deep cycles = 350 Price = 131.00

The d34m matches the yellow top I believe we have concluded fits our car in specs. I'm thinking I should get the d34m over the 34m since I have a fairly good amount of extra stuff wired into my car...?
 
To update from experience the yellow top D34/78 fit fine in the 2G AWD talon battery box. I had to remove the strut tower brace to get the old one out and drop in the Yellow Top. The optima was about 1/4 or 1/2 inch taller than the Duralast battery I had previously. The battery tie down still worked fine with no bending after taking out a few turns on the hardware. I bought the Yellow because I leave the car for long periods of time and am hoping the Deep Cycle properties will keep the battery in good shape for a longer period of time. Swapped the negative terminal post from the old batt to the new and away she went. Good luck with your battery purchases. :dsm:
 
Reason I want one is because Im going to go get tuned somewhere with my dsmlink and if the battery fails then my global settings will reset... Reason I dont want one is because they are a little pricey and they do weigh something... Way more than the one I have now... So do you guys think I should get an optima battery?
 
Well, i've had a optima red top on both of my dsm's awd's and have never had a battery problem with either of them. I've had a 1,400 watt sound system on my white dsm for a long time and never had a preoblem with anything voltage or battery related.

when i didnt have a optima, my battery would die very quickly from playing my soundsystem for a lil while with the car off. after the optima, i can playmy music longer, and my car will still turn on. They are a lil on the pricey side, but thats what happens when you dont have connections.

I would get it.
 
thanks for your reponse... im not looking to get into sound systems, im looking for a battery that will keep on starting... Good to hear the red top can handle a lot...
 
They are the dankest batterys around. One time my alternator blew on my prelude, I drove the whole way home on just the optima battery.
 
I had one last me 8 years before I killed it (left it plugged in while I was rebuilding the motor for about 2-3 weeks). I think that it would still be alive today if I didn't forget to unplug it. Oh well.
With it installed, I could watch a double feature at the drive-in without needing to start my car between movies (I also run a large sound system).

http://www.dsmtuners.com/gallery/data/501/355Remote_Optima_Red.jpg


Heavy? yes, but IMO, this battery is solid in the trenches! When considering the weight difference from that of another generic battery, I would rather go on a diet and loose the 2-3lbs than loose the piece of mind of not ever having to worry about a dead battery.
 
I have more of a mixed opinion on Optima batterys.

I have been using them for the past 3 years in 2 different cars, and I have 2 dead ones in my garage. I seem to be going through one every year. I am very hard on my batterys though. It the winter, I store my car. It gets pulled and often finds it way to the concrete (which is not good), and many times it gets hooked up to the car via jumper cables for powering things up from time to time. I also have a bad tendency to leave my headlights on - these things are not invincible. If you drain them completely enough times, the cells will die, and it will be trash.

I have noticed that the Optima will take a beating more severe than say, your standard Auto Zone battery. It will also put out more power, for longer periods of time. I can turn the ignition over to accesory and play the stereo off of the battery for long periods of time with an Optima; not something I could do before with a generic battery.

I sell the Optimas where I work. We actually sell alot of them - We keep over 150 in stock at all times; mostly red tops. I get many people calling back about the warranty on them (which is 90 days). It's not an invincible battery. I would say it's a better battery (as apposed to a generic battery), just dont abuse it and it will last you as long time. It is worth the extra money.
 
I have used both the red and yellow in a few different cars. I would highly recommend them to anyone. Yellow if you run a big sound system, red just for raw cranking power - but either can be used as the main battery.
 
I have had one in all my vehicles because I live in AZ and we go through batteries like underwear. I have had a red top in my truck for 5 years and it has never let me down. Even when my GF somehow managed to tip it over while driving, even with a tie down :confused: and it welded itself to the inner fender, it still fired the truck right up. The outcome has been the same with all my other cars as well. They always work and as long as you take car of it, it will take care of you.

As far as weight so what. If it outperforms everything else and you aren't trying to gain 1/10th of a second in the 1/4 mile then who cars if it is a few pounds more.
 
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