anyone else have lower honeycomb problems? [Merged 10-6]

[wishIhadaturbo]

I can't be the first person that has done this. I busted out both honeycombs in my MAF. Does anybody sell replacements ? Or have an idea about what I should do. The car is idleing very rough now and misses whenever I am not accelerating.

Will

 

[awdtalon21]

well i would think the ecu is going because of what he said

Fuel cut under load any boost level.
ECU clicking and car stalling. <-------
erratic idle.
stock so-called boost gauge erratic readings at idle

 

[MediumJ]

Would removing all of the honeycomb mesh from inside the MAS create any of the following problems? btw I've already replaced the CAPs.

Fuel cut under load any boost level.
ECU clicking and car stalling.
erratic idle.
stock so-called boost gauge erratic readings at idle.

When I first got I took the advice of some idiots and I took ou tall of the honey comb.


what do I do to fix this/these problems?

I had these same problems.To make a long story short,I had to replace my ecu.The shop said Its common.

 

[tkelly27]

Have you checked your codes? That will tell you a lot! The little harness on the coils likes to go bad, the plugs like to foul, especially if you've got a crappy idle going on...

Man, all that mess for maybe 2/3rds of a CFM, bummer.

 

[wolvee123]

Compunding problems, now it wont start at all..... No spark what so ever! A friend told me I could have poped my ecu cause I didn't have it grounded. Is this true?

 

[DJYoshaBYD]

if the ECU is more than 100,000 miles old, then that could be the problem... they tend to get naughty in their old age

 

[steve]

A friend told me I could have poped my ecu cause I didn't have it grounded. Is this true?

Not likely. The ECU is grounded since there is a ground wire on the harness but the box isn't directly grounded when it's not bolted in. I run mine like that all the time since It doesn't usually go more than a few hours before I'm sticking some other ECU in the car.

What does happen is the caps go bad and leak. When you reapply power they give up and the ECU stops working.

You can tell if the ECU powered up by watching the CEL and boost gauge when you first turn in the ignition. The CEL should turn on for about 5 seconds and then turn off. The boost gauge should go to zero and stay there. If the CEL never turns on then check to make sure your getting power to pin 10 on the MPI relay and to ECU pins http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ecu-harness-1G.html If the CEL turns on but not off then the ECU is damaged and needs repair.

Steve

 

[wolvee123]

I replaced the caps about 4 months ago. And the CEL and boost gauge does come on and reset. It's just random, I drove the car yesterday. Then i go to drive it and it just wont start. The starter turns the motor over. Brand new fully charged battery.

What are some possible causes?

And where is the power transistor so I can check that?

 

[wolvee123]

Insult to injury.... I changed my plugs and wires! Yippie it starts! THEN.... My timing cover had to be taken off because to holes are striped and I never reinstalled the Plug wire cover and you guessed it the plug wires rubed against the timing belt and ate a hole right through the wires.

Anyways, SInce i work at Advanced Auto I'll just exchange them tommorrow when I get to work.

The car is still clicking and turning off intermitently with the clicking... Is this my ECU going bad? Or would those messed up wires cause the problem?

Thanks

Mike

 

[wolvee123]

So my cars dead! It died last night in the middle of an intersection and I had to push it to rite-aid....

Now I have nothing... No clicking, no boost gauge click, no CEL, it just turns and turns but nothing else.


Going to check the ignition moduals now... Wish me luck!

 

[wolvee123]

PS wires were not the problem and neither was it the MAF... I had the new MAF on there when the thing died!

 

[steve]

So my cars dead! Now I have nothing... No clicking, no boost gauge click, no CEL, it just turns and turns but nothing else.

So go check the MPI fuse and look to see if the ECU is getting power. My bets are on the ECU being bad. That fact that you changed the caps on the ECU 4 months ago only reinforces the likelyhood.

Your power transistor module wouldn't cause that.

Steve

 

[wolvee123]

OK so I put a charge on the car cause I knew I wore it down last night trying to get it to start. Within about 10 minutes with the key on the boost gauge started back ticking again. Meanwhile I was checking the ECU for power and there was power at port 10 (it does). The boost gauge took another few minutes to settle down then the CEL went off and the BG poped to "0". Since I knew it would now start I started it and it ran. I drove it all the way home while the ECU was "clicking and screaming" at me the entire 20 miles. Every time it started to click and stall I clutced it and rev it to holy hell and that seemed to stop the stalling. Over compinsate (sp) for the ecu cuting out.

I also thought of one more thing, that might help the diagnosis. When I changed my alternator, "maybe by sheer coensadence" the car seemed to not do this as much. I'm not assuming their related but maybe theres something to it....

I have a CEL light but I don't know, why4. And at work we don't have the OBDI for DSM's. And BTW why is the OBDI such a pita to find for our cars?


Please, more help...

 

[wolvee123]

My ECU is good.

 

[90tsidude]

better be careful what you say about work you never know when a district mananger is reading the forums and see that your defect exchange parts out at work. tisk tisk but good luck with it. if the ecu is clicking it theres almost no doubt its bad. you said that you changed the caps did you do it right? maybe a bit of solder bridged 2 other pathways together and now its freaking out.

 

[wolvee123]

IF the district Mgr is reading these forums then he'd understand totaly why I work there.... Cause of the DSM curse and working at a auto parts store is the only option to not going broke. I am sending my ECU out to get redone. I didn't think it was going to be as big a deal and so sensative a job. So I'll let a Pro redue my Coble.... My friend told it is my Ignition modual but since everyone has told how sensative the ECU's are when you re cap them I figured it would be better to have it redone anyway.... Thanks

 

[RS-RGS-T]

Wow what makes you all think its not the distributer or something to do with it?

 

[steve]

Wow what makes you all think its not the distributer or something to do with it?

Just what gives you the idea any of the turbo cars has a distributer?

Steve

 

[luvmygst]

Wow what makes you all think its not the distributer or something to do with it?

I hope to the good lord in heaven thats a joke.

 

[tkelly27]

Did you at any point check the codes? You don't need an OBDI reader, you just need a buzzer! If you're not getting spark and then you are, it's likely that it's the crappy connecter on the coil pack. If you haven't done the CEL thing then that is just a guess.

Haha! Yeah, just give the distributor a spin, that'll get it to fire up!

 

[pooker]

Does not sound like a maf problem previous owner of my car removed all of the honeycombs and it runs fine besides a bad idle surge and thats it.

 

[Afroclipse]

So i'm doing some work to my car and decided to free air restriction in and out. In a month my project will be over, anyway i removed the large center honeycomb from my MAS. According to RRE it stated that its a don't do, even though that answers my question i threw away the honeycomb, so is anyone running without it and if not what will happen if i do.

 

[Raph]

The 1g and 2g have a weird MAF, those honeycombs straighten out the air going through the maf,the outer ones make the air "rotate" .. thats basically how that silly thing works.

So,if it does work now..then good, if not.oh well.. used mafs are cheap ,or go gmmaf(maft)

 

[steve-o_95_GST]

I removed my honeycombs when I was a young stupid dsmer and Ive since learned better. Removing them makes your car run much leaner by really messing with how the sensor reads air. I found this out when I got dsmlink and really and noticed my ariflow logs. I swapped out sensors with a buddys and I saw the difference. With dsmlink I was able to correct most of if but I still wasnt happy with how it turned out. I learned my lesson by overly hacking my mas.

 

[pooker]

Its also a pain tuning with dsmlink in your airflow settings if you have a hacked maf.

 

[Talesin]

A 2G MAS should *never* be hacked. They flow enough that it's not needed.
Seen an idiot throw a rod through the side of his block because he pulled 3 of the screens, then set his SAFC to -10% across the board; ridiculously lean.

YOu'll run lean, you won't idle well, and if you're trying to make power you're going to knock like crazy. Replace the MAS or get that honeycomb back in there.