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anyone else have lower honeycomb problems? [Merged 10-6]

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wishIhadaturbo

20+ Year Contributor
117
0
Jul 14, 2002
Dayton, Ohio
I can't be the first person that has done this. I busted out both honeycombs in my MAF. Does anybody sell replacements ? Or have an idea about what I should do. The car is idleing very rough now and misses whenever I am not accelerating.

Will
 
I hacked mine and it runs fine afterwards actually seems to run a little better. Seems a little more responsive. Now it's not like a night and day change but a little better. The honey combs are for straighting out the air as it goes through the mas. Also I turned the screw out to open the tunnel passage.
 
Gs Dewd said:
I hacked mine and it runs fine afterwards actually seems to run a little better. Seems a little more responsive. Now it's not like a night and day change but a little better. The honey combs are for straighting out the air as it goes through the mas. Also I turned the screw out to open the tunnel passage.

Yeah, same here. My throttle response is quite noticeable. Also, at all rpm's, it is smoother. I didn't mess with the screw, but I do want to know where the boost solenoid is so I can remove the restrictor.:dsm:
 
nightracer91 said:
I recently posted about me putting in my new intake pipe (3" Dejon Tool) and I mentioned about opening up the flow through the MAF, removed silencer in rear and lower honeycomb. What is the lower honeycomb even for? Some guy said his ran so lean it would die at idle. My GST seems to run better at idle. There seemed to be a tiny argument about "hacking" MAF. What are the facts about "hacking" the MAF?:dsm:
that was me who had the problem with the hacked mas. i guess for some people it works fine but not for me. without the lower honeycomb installed alot more air was bypassing the larger honeycomb (which actually reads the airflow) and of course the air was following the path of least resistance and going through the lower half which does not read the air coming in causing a lean condition.
 
nightracer91 said:
Yeah, same here. My throttle response is quite noticeable. Also, at all rpm's, it is smoother. I didn't mess with the screw, but I do want to know where the boost solenoid is so I can remove the restrictor.:dsm:
On the 1'gs it is mounted to the top of the air can. Has 2 hoses coming from it, the one nipple coming from the side has the resrictor in it. Just take a small screw and screw it into the nipple just a little bit then pull it out the resrictor will come out with the screw.
 
vintagemuscle said:
that was me who had the problem with the hacked mas. i guess for some people it works fine but not for me. without the lower honeycomb installed alot more air was bypassing the larger honeycomb (which actually reads the airflow) and of course the air was following the path of least resistance and going through the lower half which does not read the air coming in causing a lean condition.

Oh Yeah, I see where you are coming from. But I guess you really don't know until you try:thumb: . And see, I was running too rich any way, so this kind of even things out a bit.;) :dsm:
 
Gs Dewd said:
On the 1'gs it is mounted to the top of the air can. Has 2 hoses coming from it, the one nipple coming from the side has the resrictor in it. Just take a small screw and screw it into the nipple just a little bit then pull it out the resrictor will come out with the screw.

I didn't see anything on top of my air can when I took it out.:confused:
 
hmm. It should have been mounted right next to where the bov pipe bracket bolts on. It may have fallen down somewhere. Follow the vac line the runs from the j pipe back to the aircan area and the sol. will be at the end of it. You can also follow the vac. line that comes from the air can near the mas connector it goes to it also.
 
Hers is a pic of where it should be and where the lines go.

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Gs Dewd said:
hmm. It should have been mounted right next to where the bov pipe bracket bolts on. It may have fallen down somewhere. Follow the vac line the runs from the j pipe back to the aircan area and the sol. will be at the end of it. You can also follow the vac. line that comes from the air can near the mas connector it goes to it also.

Oh Okay, thanx alot.
 
I just rebilt my 1g talon and while i was in the process i just decided to wire up my 2g MAF and some 550cc injectors. After findihing the bebuild today 1st startup was good but rough idle and rough while accelerating. While i was out on the road i hit like 5 psi and all the roughness seemed to go away and it ran like a champ, but was still crapy at idle and wile accelerating until i hit boost. Does anyone have any suggetsions?? Oh and alot of backfiring under acceleration!
 
unplug your battery completely for like 20 30 mins and then replug it back in to see if the ecu has to reset itself. Make sure you dont have any boost leaks, and see if your throttle body isnt sticking, Do you have a datalogger? Are those injectors tuned? Your intake filter ok? Well just a few ideas give em a try.?
 
1st check this link just to make sure you did it right http://www.vfaq.com/mods/2GMAF-1G.html and also try resetting the ecu like he explained http://www.tmo.com/theory/myth/ecureset.htm (doubt it will do any good but worth a try) im sure u woudlnt want to wait a half hour so check the link above to reset the ecu. they say that a 2g mas w/ 550s should equall out since the 2g one runs alot leaner with a bigger surface area but every car is different you might deff have some A/F problems if you have no fuel control and a Fuel Pressure Regulator depending on your setup

and as everyone says do a boost leak test!;)
 
its vented, honeycombs in, but seems to be running really really rich since its backfiring. I checked the plugs and they are perfect! I DK ### it is. On the 2g wireup on VFAQ it says there are 2 diffrent wires that do two diffrent things(IN BOLD), do i still wire those up??http://www.vfaq.com/mods/2GMAF-1G.html
 
its ya like running to rich before boost. If i put the gas 35% or more its no diffrent before boost (Power wise), but in boost its way different. It also make some weird ass backfire noise while accelerating until boost. Oh and the Vacume it at lik -5 and when im slowing down in gear its like -25
 
Perhaps for some reason the sensor is getting bad readings, did you solder the wires clean or are they cut and twisted and did you use connectors and electric tape and what not and do it uncleanly??? because im sure the quality of the job makes a difference. You dont have a datalogger? because that;d be your best bet to figure out if your runing to rich at whatever rpms before your boost kicks in.i never tried a 2nd gen maf yet but i know i probably will one day.... Does it at least feel any faster when its boostin when you say its not having the problem/.??
 
ya its faster at boost, oh im thiking when i blew m piston oil went through the whole exhuast system, could that of failed the O2 sensor and cause all thiss?
 
Bmxr152 said:
ya its faster at boost, oh im thiking when i blew m piston oil went through the whole exhuast system, could that of failed the O2 sensor and cause all thiss?
Im going through the same problem. My car is running rich as hell (no boost leak) I might just sell everything and return to stock. I replace the coolant temp, o2 sensor and ecu was rebuilt by steve. The mod seems to work for some cars but not other!!
 
I had this porblem, right when I removed my 2G MAS, the plug was in, but there was a little clip- that little clip wasnt pushed all the way in- so check to make sure that the plug itself is plugged all the way in- it could always be something that simple- I spent $500 trying to figure out my problem - but it was just as simple as it not being plugged in all the way.- just check anyway- and make sure that your TB is stuck, - I suggest a tuning device of sometype.
 
Your venting the bov to the atmosphere? When I had my 2g maf in I recirculated
the bov. Which harness did you use to make the adapter? If it was one from a 91-94? power trnaslater did you swap the 2 wires out? If your using the 2g maf harness just triple check the connections again and try recirculating the bov.
 
I bought my car with a 2g maf sensor. The dsmchip I have in my ecu see's it like stock, however after looking into getting my intake to fit better I took a look at my maf to find the lower screw is backed out flush and the lower middle honeycomb is missing. I bought the car like this and wanna put the screw back to what stock is. I dont have the original honeycomb so I guess I'm screwed there.

How far in is the lower screw suppose to be?
 
Mike1992 said:
I bought my car with a 2g maf sensor. The dsmchip I have in my ecu see's it like stock, however after looking into getting my intake to fit better I took a look at my maf to find the lower screw is backed out flush and the lower middle honeycomb is missing. I bought the car like this and wanna put the screw back to what stock is. I dont have the original honeycomb so I guess I'm screwed there.

How far in is the lower screw suppose to be?

Mike,

While the honeycomb removal is considered hacking and might need be replaced, backing the MAF screw out doesn't affect WOT according to Jeff. I've had mine backed out since I owned the car and all of my 17 different chips have been set up for an unhacked MAF without issue. If the lower honeycomb out presents driveability issues, I would recommend buying a used 2G MAF from our Classifieds section and simply using it, or pulling the lower honeycomb and adding it to yours.

If you really want to set the MAF screw back to stock, you can reference this article from RRE:

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/eclipsetech/2gmasadjustment.htm

Good luck!

Andy
 
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